LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build - Page 19 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Rokcrln · 03-17-2009, 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Those turned out great! Are you going to put bushings or another mechanism on the end-links (between components) in case the suspension ever unloads?

I was thinking the same thing as you Mike. The Vett's don't use anything but I was still thinking of using a piece of Hydro rubber hose about 1/8" longer then my ID opening between mounts.

Now for the fun part I get to spend most of tonight with the Plasma making all my parts and pieces for the other side so it all matches and still add 1 or 2 gussets to this rear mount. I hope to have my Re8's soon so I can start mocking up placement and ratios and see what is left for the shock placement.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Tagg33 · 03-17-2009, 09:09 AM

Can you share what sizes you are using for the Hiem joints for the track locater? Are they 5/8x5/8" and is the tubing 1" ID? I'm about to order the supplies for my IRS and I wondered what you went with.

Rokcrln · 03-17-2009, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tagg33

Can you share what sizes you are using for the Hiem joints for the track locater? Are they 5/8x5/8" and is the tubing 1" ID? I'm about to order the supplies for my IRS and I wondered what you went with.

I have not ordered mine yet. I will be calling in the morning to see what will work best for my set up.

If you are doing this in a truck I would use the stock rear diff cover and just raise the frame 4" and use the stock set up for the track. I only went through this in order to keep the rear floor as low as I could for the rear seat my wife wanted.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

64shortc10 · 03-17-2009, 11:31 PM

Kevin,

Do you need a slam bag rs8 for mock up I have three in my garage and one is damaged to use for mock up welding purposes!
Tony from Norcal

Rokcrln · 03-18-2009, 07:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 64shortc10

Kevin,

Do you need a slam bag rs8 for mock up I have three in my garage and one is damaged to use for mock up welding purposes!
Tony from Norcal

Sure Tony drop off the bad one and that will also mean mine will show at the same time so it is a win win!
You did mean to say RE8 right?

Thanks
Kevin
LFD Inc.

*Retro68* · 03-18-2009, 07:36 PM

Hey Kevin this suburban is so ambitious. The rear hatch with hidden hinges is great. I was wondering if you are going to do something slick with the tail lights. I always thought there was too much metal around the lenses. Maybe a larger tailight that appears stock would fill the void. Just thinking outloud. Anyway great job with all your work. I will keep tabs on your progress.

tdave00 · 03-18-2009, 08:15 PM

I am still holding you to the CHEVROLET lettering across the back

!

Rokcrln · 03-19-2009, 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Retro68

Hey Kevin this suburban is so ambitious. The rear hatch with hidden hinges is great. I was wondering if you are going to do something slick with the tail lights. I always thought there was too much metal around the lenses. Maybe a larger tailight that appears stock would fill the void. Just thinking outloud. Anyway great job with all your work. I will keep tabs on your progress.

I am thinking about using the tail lights off a 66-67 Nova. They are a touch wider and will Sit flat on the body and not pock out like the stock ones do.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdave00

I am still holding you to the CHEVROLET lettering across the back

!

Thats fine but then I get to hold you to sending me a good section out of a step or fleet gate for the lettering

Kevin
LFD Inc.

tdave00 · 03-19-2009, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Thats fine but then I get to hold you to sending me a good section out of a step or fleet gate for the lettering

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Ummm...backpedaling quietly.

Thought you said you had one upstairs you were going to use?

Everything looks great BTW.

XXL · 03-19-2009, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdave00

Ummm...backpedaling quietly.

Find a couple of old beat up gates and stitch parts of each together to read C H E R V O L E T

**Hart_Rod** · 03-19-2009, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

I am thinking about using the tail lights off a 66-67 Nova. They are a touch wider and will Sit flat on the body and not pock out like the stock ones do.

Thats fine but then I get to hold you to sending me a good section out of a step or fleet gate for the lettering

Kevin
LFD Inc.

That's one thing I wish I had done to my suburban when I redid the back. I'll probably end up making one of the aluminum tailgate bands work. One thing to keep in mind when you do this is the curve of the burb tailgate is pretty substantial. Lay a straight edge up to it and you'll see what I'm talking about.

VA72C10 · 03-19-2009, 11:10 AM

Or, check with NWD02...he's putting in a panel with the older chevrolet script so he might be willing to hook you up with the original letters. I have a gate that the letters are pretty good on but the bottom's rotten that I could cut out the letters for you...but shipping would probably kill the deal for you.

Rokcrln · 03-19-2009, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdave00

Ummm...backpedaling quietly.

Thought you said you had one upstairs you were going to use?

Everything looks great BTW.

All the one's in the attic are gone. My last one was cut up to match a dash I had for a project. See pic below

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

That's one thing I wish I had done to my suburban when I redid the back. I'll probably end up making one of the aluminum tailgate bands work. One thing to keep in mind when you do this is the curve of the burb tailgate is pretty substantial. Lay a straight edge up to it and you'll see what I'm talking about.

The section I will add would be just bigger than the letters so it should still blend in well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Or, check with NWD02...he's putting in a panel with the older chevrolet script so he might be willing to hook you up with the original letters. I have a gate that the letters are pretty good on but the bottom's rotten that I could cut out the letters for you...but shipping would probably kill the deal for you.

I will just hit the pic-n-pull for another section. That is what I did for this gate. Notice it is a step side section put into a GMC gate.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

FRENCHBLUE72 · 03-19-2009, 10:14 PM

Whos truck are the backwards stuff going into..?

Rokcrln · 03-19-2009, 11:08 PM

Gate is on the Blazer I sold to Hickman and the dash is back in my attic

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Rokcrln · 03-22-2009, 12:07 AM

Well I think for sure today was the hardest day of this build so far, but I got it. I was working on the front 4 link bars for the C4 and had a heck of a time in trying to keep the bars low and still maintain the smallest amount of front to back wheel travel during the full range of up and down wheel travel. I started out with equal length bars and had them parallel to the frame and that gave me over 1 1/2" of front to back wheel travel through the 10" of travel. After allot of different set ups and allot of thinking I ended up with 30" top bars and 31 1/4" lower bars. They are parallel to the ground at ride height and during the full 10" of travel my front to back movement is less then 3/8" total. I have it set up for the wheel to be centered in the wheel well at full dump and at ride height it is back 5/16".

Here are a few shots with the laser set up for checking the final configuration. First shot is full stuff and the laser is dead center of the hub Axel nut. Next is ride height and a close up of the tape. Then the last hub shot is at full lift and it is once again perfectly centered. I still need to play with my track bars abit because I am getting a few degrees of tow change during full travel and I think I can get it all out with some more work. If I can get it to zero it will also decrees the 5/16" number a very small amount.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[IMG]

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[IMG]

[/IMG]

Rokcrln · 03-22-2009, 12:41 AM

So in order to make it all work I had to bring the top bars into the floor by 2". This really won't be a problem because my seat mounts are just above this and will still allow for a sheet metal cover over the seat mounts and top bars and the seat will still lay forward and down flat like it should. I will make some simple covers to go over the bars but leave access for the bolt to be removed. The upper bar has to have a down ward bend to it in order to clear the rear floor step structure and also to keep the bar below the magic 2" floor #. I will bend this bar in my hydro bender but first I will sleeve the inside of the 1 1/4" tube with a .120 wall 1" on the inside then if I feel it is needed I will add a gusset blade to the bottom of the tube.

The lower links are parallel to the ground at ride height and are angled in to the frame about 3"+- at the leading end of the bars to minimize the front to back travel of the hub during the up and down travel. I have 10" of travel 5" each way from ride height and that should have the frame 1" off the ground with a 31" tall tire and 6" of frame clearance at ride height.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[IMG]

[/IMG]

[IMG]

[/IMG]

*project 67 sub* · 03-22-2009, 01:10 AM

nice work, its lookin real good

NWD02 · 03-22-2009, 03:09 AM

Check this out. I'm putting it on my tail gate. Something a little different... MEKDAD machined it for me.

LUV2XCLR8 · 03-22-2009, 08:08 AM

Looking good LFD

hotrodhomi · 03-22-2009, 09:53 AM

Looks good Kevin.

Rokcrln · 03-22-2009, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NWD02

Check this out. I'm putting it on my tail gate. Something a little different... MEKDAD machined it for me.

Looks very nice! How thick is the material?

Kevin LFD Inc.

Rokcrln · 03-23-2009, 11:47 PM

I know not much but it was my evenings work all the same. I finished welding the bars and added a small brace to the two bent arms. Here is a pic of the section I cut out for the poly end to weld to so you can see what is on the inside. The sleeve runs from the ploy end to 4" back from the rod end. Combined it is just over .250 thick and I will add 4 plug welds on each side of the bend to lock it all into one piece. I am waiting on 3 new threaded ends that I should have on Tuesday so I can finish up these bars and start on the toe in/out bars on the diff cover.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[IMG]

[/IMG]

[IMG]

[/IMG]

*Puropedo* · 03-24-2009, 12:33 AM

Wow Kevin, that IRS is sure taking you lots of hard work, evrybody can weld but not evryone can design. Im pretty sure your 5.3 conversion will be easier
cant wait for that!

Rokcrln · 03-24-2009, 07:17 AM

It sure has been allot more work then I was thinking but it is still worth every bit as I see it coming together. If I would have just been ok with cutting up higher in my floor this would have been allot faster and easier but I want a certain look when it is done so I brought it on my self. I too believe the 5.3 swap will be a cake walk especially with PorterBuilt's C4 Drop Member that is on it's way. I still have a few trick up my sleeve that will add extra work but it will all be worth it in the end. Thanks for checking in somtimes I think I am just posting this for my self

Kevin
LFD Inc.

03-17-2009, 09:09 AM	#452
Tagg33 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 247	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build Can you share what sizes you are using for the Hiem joints for the track locater? Are they 5/8x5/8" and is the tubing 1" ID? I'm about to order the supplies for my IRS and I wondered what you went with. __________________ Ryan 84 SWB, C4 IFS Crossmember, C4 IRS, RE7 bags, WCC 3pc 22"s My reBuild: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=346328

03-17-2009, 11:31 PM	#454
64shortc10 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Winters, Ca. Posts: 1,069	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build Kevin, Do you need a slam bag rs8 for mock up I have three in my garage and one is damaged to use for mock up welding purposes! Tony from Norcal

03-18-2009, 07:36 PM	#456
Retro68 Account Suspended Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Mesa Arizona Posts: 294	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build Hey Kevin this suburban is so ambitious. The rear hatch with hidden hinges is great. I was wondering if you are going to do something slick with the tail lights. I always thought there was too much metal around the lenses. Maybe a larger tailight that appears stock would fill the void. Just thinking outloud. Anyway great job with all your work. I will keep tabs on your progress.

03-18-2009, 08:15 PM	#457
tdave00 Restoring a 68 SWB Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 1,068	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build I am still holding you to the CHEVROLET lettering across the back ! __________________ My Build Thread: Lucy - My 1968 SWB - Shop Truck Style North Nashville Concrete Contractor Last edited by tdave00; 03-18-2009 at 08:15 PM.

03-19-2009, 11:10 AM	#462
VA72C10 VA72C10 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Midlothian, VA Posts: 25,269	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build Or, check with NWD02...he's putting in a panel with the older chevrolet script so he might be willing to hook you up with the original letters. I have a gate that the letters are pretty good on but the bottom's rotten that I could cut out the letters for you...but shipping would probably kill the deal for you. __________________ Looking for a 67-72 swb or blazer project in or around VA.

03-19-2009, 10:14 PM	#464
FRENCHBLUE72 PROJECT 7DEUCE Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: GRANTS PASS OR Posts: 21,608	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build Whos truck are the backwards stuff going into..? __________________ GO BIG GREEN GO DUCKS MEMBER #6377 72 k-5 daily driver 6'' lift 35'' 350-350-205 slowly getting rust free. Project "7DEUCE" check out my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=267665 Tim Powell..R.I.P EastSideLowlife..... R.I.P..

03-19-2009, 11:08 PM	#465
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build Gate is on the Blazer I sold to Hickman and the dash is back in my attic Kevin LFD Inc.

03-22-2009, 12:07 AM	#466
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build Well I think for sure today was the hardest day of this build so far, but I got it. I was working on the front 4 link bars for the C4 and had a heck of a time in trying to keep the bars low and still maintain the smallest amount of front to back wheel travel during the full range of up and down wheel travel. I started out with equal length bars and had them parallel to the frame and that gave me over 1 1/2" of front to back wheel travel through the 10" of travel. After allot of different set ups and allot of thinking I ended up with 30" top bars and 31 1/4" lower bars. They are parallel to the ground at ride height and during the full 10" of travel my front to back movement is less then 3/8" total. I have it set up for the wheel to be centered in the wheel well at full dump and at ride height it is back 5/16". Here are a few shots with the laser set up for checking the final configuration. First shot is full stuff and the laser is dead center of the hub Axel nut. Next is ride height and a close up of the tape. Then the last hub shot is at full lift and it is once again perfectly centered. I still need to play with my track bars abit because I am getting a few degrees of tow change during full travel and I think I can get it all out with some more work. If I can get it to zero it will also decrees the 5/16" number a very small amount. Kevin LFD Inc. [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]

03-22-2009, 12:41 AM	#467
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build So in order to make it all work I had to bring the top bars into the floor by 2". This really won't be a problem because my seat mounts are just above this and will still allow for a sheet metal cover over the seat mounts and top bars and the seat will still lay forward and down flat like it should. I will make some simple covers to go over the bars but leave access for the bolt to be removed. The upper bar has to have a down ward bend to it in order to clear the rear floor step structure and also to keep the bar below the magic 2" floor #. I will bend this bar in my hydro bender but first I will sleeve the inside of the 1 1/4" tube with a .120 wall 1" on the inside then if I feel it is needed I will add a gusset blade to the bottom of the tube. The lower links are parallel to the ground at ride height and are angled in to the frame about 3"+- at the leading end of the bars to minimize the front to back travel of the hub during the up and down travel. I have 10" of travel 5" each way from ride height and that should have the frame 1" off the ground with a 31" tall tire and 6" of frame clearance at ride height. Kevin LFD Inc. [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]

03-22-2009, 01:10 AM	#468
project 67 sub Account Suspended Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: san bernardino ca. everywhere Posts: 3,938	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build nice work, its lookin real good

03-22-2009, 03:09 AM	#469
NWD02 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Mont Belvieu, Texas Posts: 729	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build Check this out. I'm putting it on my tail gate. Something a little different... MEKDAD machined it for me. Attached Images

03-22-2009, 08:08 AM	#470
LUV2XCLR8 The LuvShack Garage Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Maple Grove, TN (West Side) Posts: 30,484	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build Looking good LFD __________________ Owner/Op: "TN Classic Transport Carriers" The Toy: "Square Vette" 72 Hybrid Blazer Toy Barn: "LuvShack" 40 x 60 x 20 Shop Tow Piggy:"Maddy" 88 Silverado 3500 Hauler: "Feathers" 14 Aluma 8218T

03-22-2009, 09:53 AM	#471
hotrodhomi Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,737	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build Looks good Kevin. __________________ '72 2wd blazer, bagged w/ watts link & EDC '72 C10 "Lowered Farm Truck" STOLEN 5-18-11 '66 impala ht

03-23-2009, 11:47 PM	#473
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build I know not much but it was my evenings work all the same. I finished welding the bars and added a small brace to the two bent arms. Here is a pic of the section I cut out for the poly end to weld to so you can see what is on the inside. The sleeve runs from the ploy end to 4" back from the rod end. Combined it is just over .250 thick and I will add 4 plug welds on each side of the bend to lock it all into one piece. I am waiting on 3 new threaded ends that I should have on Tuesday so I can finish up these bars and start on the toe in/out bars on the diff cover. Kevin LFD Inc. [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]

03-24-2009, 12:33 AM	#474
Puropedo Account Suspended Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Prunedale California Posts: 782	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build Wow Kevin, that IRS is sure taking you lots of hard work, evrybody can weld but not evryone can design. Im pretty sure your 5.3 conversion will be easier cant wait for that!



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03-24-2009, 07:17 AM	#475
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build It sure has been allot more work then I was thinking but it is still worth every bit as I see it coming together. If I would have just been ok with cutting up higher in my floor this would have been allot faster and easier but I want a certain look when it is done so I brought it on my self. I too believe the 5.3 swap will be a cake walk especially with PorterBuilt's C4 Drop Member that is on it's way. I still have a few trick up my sleeve that will add extra work but it will all be worth it in the end. Thanks for checking in somtimes I think I am just posting this for my self Kevin LFD Inc.

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