New project! The "Red Herring"

[Advanced Design]

JJ, for other conduit ideas take a look here starting at post 752.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...643426&page=31

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

JJ, for other conduit ideas take a look here starting at post 752.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...643426&page=31

Thanks Doug! Lots of ideas.

On a semi related note, I may have found a jamb switch solution that doesn't require the switch to be *in* the jamb, proper ... more on that after I get some dinner and get out to the shop.

[JJorgensen52]

So here's the tree I'm barking up at the moment.

This is a dome lamp switch from a 2005 Cavalier ... pretty much all 2000s GM vehicles use a variant of this switch (it's a simple, two wire, closed-when-the-door-is-open deal):


And here it is, inserted into the back of the hinge (I reached in through the air intake access on the passenger's kick panel, would have to make an access panel on the driver's side):


The hinge hits it just so when the door is closed, almost like it was made for that spot.

My original intent had been to run a die down the outside of the switch and just thread a nut onto it - problem is, turns out the tip of the plunger is bigger around that the shaft of the switch itself - so I'm looking for a C or E clip of the right diameter to try it out with that.

[99 to Life]

great alternative, you could prolly run them at the bottom of the rocker too, that way you aren't drilling through a pained door and jam if that was the case.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

great alternative, you could prolly run them at the bottom of the rocker too, that way you aren't drilling through a pained door and jam if that was the case.

They're weather sealed on both ends, so you could definitely run them through the rockers as well if you wanted. In fact, I might just have to look at that and see if I can find a reasonable wire routing... it would be even easier, the switch is meant to just pop into a hole and it's an "automatic" depth adjustment the first time you close the door.

[99 to Life]

yah let us know, I bought some aftermarket ones and just never go around to installing them. I did alot of custom wiring and was just way behind on the build, so I never did it. but could always add them in down the road.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

yah let us know, I bought some aftermarket ones and just never go around to installing them. I did alot of custom wiring and was just way behind on the build, so I never did it. but could always add them in down the road.

The answer is yes, you definitely could. The spacing is good down there, and if you drill a hole in the rocker from the inside below the front cab mount, you can pass the wiring directly into the cowl and up in the kick panel.

You could also get away with a switch mounted into the door pillar below the lower hinge without space issues (if you hadn't painted yet )

It looks like I'm going to be welding a pocket / cup into the pillar between the hinges and mounting the switch directly; I just wasn't happy with the various alternatives I've tried the last couple days. The C-clips didn't grip the switch well enough for me to be content with it.

[JJorgensen52]

It was a warm and sunny weekend here in VA, which meant mostly that I was outside and not working on Red

Got started on the mount for my washer bottle - this is the standard issue unit from the 81-87 square body trucks, the best fit for the space I could find:


Alternator clearance is about an inch and change. The pump is on the back so no chance for leaking into the alternator!


I also got my hands on a pair of 15" S10 wheels with 205/75R15 tires this week, which is the size I'm looking at using (though in whitewall, Dad's request) for the finished product. Clearance looks pretty good, though the rear is a little tighter than I would like to the fender lip (this position is about an inch below ride height out back and at ride height in the front, I estimate).

[flashed]

Wheels fill out the fenders quite nicely .

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by flashed

Wheels fill out the fenders quite nicely .

Thanks! I was actually a bit worried that this size would look too "car-ish" for a truck, being smaller than the originals. I was pleased to find that not the case, because I don't think I can go much larger without running into fender lip clearance issues.

I had a 235/75R15 mounted up for a bit, it *did* fit, but not if I needed to turn and hit a bump at the same time

[JJorgensen52]

Not much visual tonight. Got the washer bottle bracket finished up.


Shows the protrusion above the core support ... you can shut the hood with a 2x4 on top of the support, so I still have a solid inch clearance


Other than that, spent far more time than I would have liked massaging the dash around the ignition switch to make the bezel sit flat, and then filing in the keyways to keep it from spinning.

Also, made a decision about the fuel tank. I'm going to weld a piece of 1-5/8" ID tubing into the frame (and a boxing plate on the inside) to allow the filler hose to pass through and hit the tank at the right angle. It makes everything back there a lot neater. Just got the steel in today, maybe will get a chance to take a whack at it on Thursday (I have a short day at work).

[JJorgensen52]

I feel like I'm finally making progress again, just in time to be going on travel for a week

Welded my flasher block bracket to the top of the pedal support tonight:


Also made a bracket for the proportioning valve, since I already had the pedal bracket out it was a no brainer to pull the booster and make this as well:



And believe it or not, those wires you see there are enough to make it run! No need for all those lights or other fancy-schmancy stuff

Also note, OBDII port mounted up under the dash, so I can get scan tool data when I go to power all this stuff up and cross check before we run it.

[JJorgensen52]

And I'm back!

Made up a bracket to mount the ignition solenoid to the firewall, and got it wired up:


You'll notice there's a bend between the two bolts on the left in this photo - it compensates for the thickness of the sheetmetal where the cowl meets the firewall.


I made it with welded in bolts so I can gasket it to the firewall on final assembly, keep the water outside! The space between the solenoid and the PCM I'm thinking is going to be mounting for the battery tender setup.

Also got the pedal wired up on the inside. Officially, the engine and trans wiring is now 100%, so I hopefully will get a chance to power the harness up and check for function sometime this week.

[Advanced Design]

Nice job on the bracket. Good luck on the power up. Start should come soon after?

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Nice job on the bracket. Good luck on the power up. Start should come soon after?

I hope so! I still need to deal with the fuel fill and the front portion of the fuel lines before I can start it, but I'm hoping to get to that this coming weekend.

[JJorgensen52]

Couple things tonight. Picked up a universal Dorman coolant reservoir, a littler smaller than the other one I have and allows me to arrange the firewall better:

And since I have more room, I'm looking to locate my battery tender on the far side, instead, better wire routing:


Then I got a start on relocating my fuel fill:


Now on the rear of the driver's step fender:



I'm going to have a 90 degree elbow mounted through the bedside just aft of the axle cutout, which will also step down from the 1-3/8" fill neck to the 1" fill on the tank

[Advanced Design]

Using those pieces that way was a good idea.

[flashed]

I love how creative all you guys doing builds on this site are ,I learn from you all even though most of my trucks are 72 and up.

[lower50's]

Nice filler mod!!

[JJorgensen52]

Thanks fellas!

I'm still plugging away at wiring, I've had shorter time in the shop these past few days - last night I got turn signals, hazards, brakes, reverse lamps and horn hooked up and tested out. All I have to do to make it "road ready" is get the rest of the lights and the wipers plugged in, hoping that will happen tonight.

[JJorgensen52]

Finished up the exterior lighting wires tonight - a little video for you below (if anybody is bored )

Front (includes horn)


Rear


You may notice that the lights are acting weird in the middle of the Rear light video - I need to either replace or disassemble and clean the turn signal switch - it's one of the early GM tilt cable operated numbers! Actually, come to think of it, it might be adjustable... hrrrm...

[JJorgensen52]

Still plugging away at the fuel fill, turns out it's taking a fair amount more hammer and dolly than I might have liked:


Also got the last of the underhood wiring wrapped up (brake system warning lights), and made a bracket to mount my last two underhood pieces:




It's starting to look like a modern truck under here


I have a LOT of holes in the firewall to weld up when this next comes apart

[Cautrell05]

Maybe I missed it but what is the master cylinder from?

[Cautrell05]

Originally Posted by JJorgensen52

Also set up this little bracket:

The flasher block came from a '96 S10 truck, I'm pretty sure it's '95-'97 range - anyways, holds two standard flashers and a GM headlight buzzer (not sure if I'm going to install that or not, but I'll wire it up since it will take all of two extra minutes). I modified it a little to make it fit in the bracket.

Is that the same buzzer as the full size trucks? Both my 89 GMC and my 99 use the same buzzer and were modified so they don't make a peep unless I leave the headlights on.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by Cautrell05

Maybe I missed it but what is the master cylinder from?

Originally Posted by Cautrell05

Is that the same buzzer as the full size trucks? Both my 89 GMC and my 99 use the same buzzer and were modified so they don't make a peep unless I leave the headlights on.

The booster is from a '91-'93 4.3 S10 (it's the large dual diaphragm model), and the master cylinder is from a 2000 S10 Blazer (the four wheel disc version). I'm using 2000 S-series discs and calipers all the way around.

The buzzer is the same, yes, and I've got it wired up just for the "forgot the headlights" function, but I'm not sure I'm going to use it. It's wired, so I can stick one in there if I need it!