Senior Project Build

[texanidiot25]

I'd give them both a call and see what's up.

[tcoop68]

it looks like your having fun.It makes me remember my first of many.You will probley be hooked for life like me. Looks like your doing a pretty good job on her keep it up.

[drewdude92]

what are the wheel tire specs? those look sweet!

[LuckyHenriksen]

Thanks guys. The wheels are 15x6 front with 195/65 tires, rears are 15x10 with 13.5 inch wide MT ET Streets that are 28 inches tall

[drewdude92]

awesome man i love em

[rob32472]

Dude you are the man I wish I had half as much time to post as you!

[LuckyHenriksen]

Thanks guys. I will find the backspacing specs eventually, for anyone who wants to know. I have spent the evening wire-wheeling rust in the channel right above the rocker panel. I will probably end up slipping a little *eek* bondo in there just so water can't come into the cab. I know everyone, me included, hates when people just fill stuff with bondo but I don't see another option for me right now. I don't have the facilities to weld anything, and have no budget for body work. Its all going into the motor and driveline besides its just a few small rust holes

[LuckyHenriksen]

Oh and how hard is it to cut holes in the crossmember so I can run exhaust through?

[Gray Ghost]

Not hard at all with a plasma cutter. We cut a frame in half in seconds when we re-framed a 71 of my buddy's.

[LuckyHenriksen]

Is 3 inches a good size for the holes?

[Gray Ghost]

You want around 3/8" on all sides for movement. Should be plenty of room if your pipes are 2 1/4" OD.

[OLDIRON69]

Most go larger, I guess it depends on your exhaust.

[LuckyHenriksen]

Originally Posted by OLDIRON69

Most go larger, I guess it depends on your exhaust.

Oh than I better go with 5 inch holes lol.

[71cadc10]

to get the crank pulley off, you use the puller on the tabs near the center of the hub, not the outside of the pulley (you'll damage the lip if you pull on the outside).

A pulley puller from Autozone will work for this.

[LuckyHenriksen]

Originally Posted by 71cadc10

to get the crank pulley off, you use the puller on the tabs near the center of the hub, not the outside of the pulley (you'll damage the lip if you pull on the outside).

A pulley puller from Autozone will work for this.

Ok, thanks for the heads up. On the puller I tried, the middle bolt that pushed into the middle was too small, do I need one with a little "foot" to keep it from going inside the crank snout

[71cadc10]

Originally Posted by LuckyHenriksen

Ok, thanks for the heads up. On the puller I tried, the middle bolt that pushed into the middle was too small, do I need one with a little "foot" to keep it from going inside the crank snout

Leave the crank bolt in the end of the crank, back it out about 1" and let the puller bolt tighten against the head. When you get the pulley moved out tight against the bolt, then back the bolt out some more. The bolt threads in there pretty deep. With the pulley backed out 1-2" it should come the rest of the way just pulling on it w/ you hands or tapping with a mallet.

[LuckyHenriksen]

So tonight I cut up some old 2x4s I scrounged out of the back 40 and made a couple of wooden boxes to set the tires on. I like these alot, I holds it up much higher and feels sturdier than jack stands. Am I the only one who cuts lumber with a sawzall? lol









Now I need to make a set for the front! I got a box full of junkyard parts today, a starter, alternator, and a power steering pump. Man these starters are small and light weight. I hope it all works. Good old U pick it stuff. I should be making a trip to harbor freight this weekend, maybe friday so I can score a puller and some other crap.







And I got some Bondo supplies today. I just need to get a bigger grinding wheel and clean out the spot some more.

[LuckyHenriksen]

Here are a couple very horribly blurry pictures of the rust





Im going over to my friends house in a few minutes to borrow some POR-15, so after I grind it up I can slather it in rust inhibitor, then spread the mud. One last shot of my bed full of parts waiting to be installed.

[Gray Ghost]

No sir...you aren't the only one.

Being a deck builder means the sawzall is my friend! I cut wood all the time with it. In fact at one time I had four of them! Of course when it counts I cut on the sliding miter saw or by circ saw, but sometimes they aren't within reach!

Nice blocks. I need to make some more of those. I also made ramps once outta 2x4's back in the 70's when I was a young-un. Didn't have the cash to buy the metal ones.

[OLDIRON69]

Good choice to go with tthe POR 15 first IMO. It is some bad stuff..hope you wore gloves! I got it on me doing a underside of a Charger and damn near had to use a belt sander to get it off my arm..

[LuckyHenriksen]

Ah of course! Leave the crank bolt in! Thats a great idea. Thanks! And Im glad Im not the only one who uses the sawzall to cut everything around the garage- but your right, if you want precision it is not the way to go! I didn't get the POR-15 last night, my buddy I was going to borrow it from works the late shift and wasn't going to be home till like 1 am so I said screw it I'm going to bed

[LuckyHenriksen]

Picked up an ACC 10'' Torque Converter today, 3200 stall speed. Brand new in the box.







And a box of stereo stuff showed up today props to texanidiot for telling me about the website.





I bought a bigger grinding wheel and ground out some of the rust tonight, the holes got bigger it looks like whoever welded in the new floor pans did a bad job matching up the edges on this side. Oh well. As I was crawling around on the floor under the cab I started looking at the holes where the seatbelts and seat mounts attach, there sure isn't much metal holding that stuff in... do you guys ever reinforce those areas? I have seen texan do it but didn't know what to do.

[LuckyHenriksen]

I cruised over to Zigs Hot Rods and picked up a Hagan gas cap, with the spring loaded flap in the middle. They only wanted 23 bucks for it, online it was like 25 plus shipping. I felt good that I could actually buy something locally. They have a ton of sweet billet stuff to drool on a lots of cool projects out back. Now all I have to do is pirate the filler neck of a late model GM and mate it to my fuel cell.

[LuckyHenriksen]

This evening I got the balancer off, (after I broke a harbor freight puller) dropped the pan, pulled the oil pump, cam sensor, cam cover, and the timing gear and chain. Then slid out the stock cam. Is a stock LQ4 cam with 100k on it worth anything?





And I went junkyard crawling (I ditched school ) and pulled a fill tube and gas door from a late model tahoe. 15 bucks for all of it I will cut it down and mate it to my fuel cell. The Hagan cap I picked up fits perfectly, like a stock cap. Now I only have to cut a small hole in the floor. Still can't decide if I want to use a marine fill cap on the top, or make the late model fuel door work.

[Gray Ghost]

I have a marine cap I got from Boat World...I like it but it's a pita to open with the key so I use a screwdriver.