Jesses' 48 PU

[8man]

That worked great!

[Jesse49chevy]

Okay, Im tired... wet sanded all day yesterday... I dont have finger prints left!!
Today I installed the fenders for good.. and quickly threw on the passenger side door. I have to adjust it. Its hard being a one man show....but ill get it done...

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by Jesse49chevy

What was your steering column of choice for the build?

[layinrocker65]

Looking awesome

[Tempest67]

looks great, keep it going

[Jesse49chevy]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

What was your steering column of choice for the build?

Hey Gigamanx, I decided on a DEEPMOTOR column. Picked it up on ebay for 160 or so. Nothing fancy, simple. I didnt want to spend big bucks on the ididit column although they are super nice with all the bells and whistles..

Its stainless steel, but i roughed it up used self etching primer and painted it white to match the interior

[Jesse49chevy]

I also used an emergency brake set up from a modern S10. I wanted a push/release assembly. Simple install, used the hinge hole for the top so that bolt will sinch down on the hinge and the brake assembly, welded two bolts to the kick panel and whaalaa... done. Routed the cable through the original ebrake pedal hole.

[Jesse49chevy]

Okay need advise... I quickly threw on the passenger door and know it needs adjusting. But this kept me up all night. I noticed the gap on the bottom. Obviously not the original doors to this cab. I am using new hinges from Classic Industries.
As we all know the hinge holes to the cab are slotted for up/down adjustment. How in the world can I adjust the bottom of the door to move in? Should I slot the holes for side adjustment? Has anyone faced this dilema?

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by Jesse49chevy

Okay need advise... I quickly threw on the passenger door and know it needs adjusting. But this kept me up all night. I noticed the gap on the bottom. Obviously not the original doors to this cab. I am using new hinges from Classic Industries.
As we all know the hinge holes to the cab are slotted for up/down adjustment. How in the world can I adjust the bottom of the door to move in? Should I slot the holes for side adjustment? Has anyone faced this dilema?

Got a picture? My first thought is that the hinge or hinge plate in the door are bent if the door is sticking out at the bottom. Not a lot of adjustment other than a shim or two inside the door. That might move it 1/8" or so

[Jesse49chevy]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

Got a picture? My first thought is that the hinge or hinge plate in the door are bent if the door is sticking out at the bottom. Not a lot of adjustment other than a shim or two inside the door. That might move it 1/8" or so

Yes her is some pics... will try to load up a short video as well.

[Jesse49chevy]

I couldnt load up my video. But I noticed the top front of the door makes contact. So obviously it needs to drop down an 8th or so, but it also needs to come out from the top and in from the bottom. So maybe I shim the top out and the bottom in...

[Jesse49chevy]

Originally Posted by layinrocker65

Looking awesome

Thanks... I took the Bob Ross approach.. had a lot of "happy accidents"

[8man]

Jesse, I had to do some grinding in the hinge holes that go into the door to give me enough "slop" to adjust the door, and these are original doors, hinges and cab. After getting the belt all lined up, I still have a little gap at the bottom, similar to what you have, just not quite as much now that the rest of the door is fitting better. Hope that helps.

[Jesse49chevy]

Originally Posted by 8man

Jesse, I had to do some grinding in the hinge holes that go into the door to give me enough "slop" to adjust the door, and these are original doors, hinges and cab. After getting the belt all lined up, I still have a little gap at the bottom, similar to what you have, just not quite as much now that the rest of the door is fitting better. Hope that helps.

So I find myself doing things twice, I think I could have built two trucks by now. My intention was to use the original hinges, I bought the pin/bushing kit and the face plates. But I simply could not drive out the old pins. I tried all I could think of, heat, hammer, even my 20 ton press couldnt drive out the pin. So I resorted to new hinges. Well apparently these Taiwan made hinges are not the answer. The doors just will not line up. So I took the originals to the machine shop to have the pins milled out. I didnt trust myself with my wobbly drill press set up and felt I would ruin them. I should get them back next week and we will see if they line up.
Meanwhile, im working on running the Wilwood universal emergency brake kit. Wish I had a lift like yours, im to old to be crawling in and out from under the truck.. LOL..

[8man]

Good for you. I had to rebuild all the door hinges. However, that may not fix all the door fitment issues.

I crawled under mine over and over, it hasn't been on the lift yet, and I'm way older!

[Jesse49chevy]

Been MIA for a bit.. have been traveling due to business and less time spent at home, I got the hinges back from the machine shop, installed the new pins and doors fit much better. The passenger side door went on with no issues, the driver side door still has a small gap at the bottom, I enlarged the holes to give it sideways adjustment and the gap is much smaller now. Still not happy with it, but stepped away from it for a bit.

[MiraclePieCo]

Huge improvement, I'd be thrilled if mine fit that good.

[jweb]

I had a similar problem with my doors. You may need to bend the hinges slightly.
Take a look at post #17 here http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=578310

You may want to wait until you have the seals on your doors to get them set up just right.

[Jesse49chevy]

Well its been a minute since I post an update. Between fighting Covid, work (so grateful to have still have a job) and the daily hustle its been challenging to keep up. I have been working on my truck here and there. I finally got to the trans cooler, wasnt sure where to put it and decided to go with where the battery used to live. Ran AN-6 lines and made some brackets to hold it in place.

[Jesse49chevy]

I was undecided on the window regulators as I have the originals, but after taking a close look at them. It seems as if someone tried some backwoods engineering repairs and the plastic roller thingys gone as well. I opted to buy new ones. So this weekend I decided to work on the doors. I layed down some Eastwood Thermo Coustic Barrier. It lays down easy, but obviously clening the inside and working the sheets inside the door is challenging... getting my fat hands and arms in and out of the inspection holes was... well lets just say it tested my patience... after numerous choice words, my arm getting stuck a few times... I finally got the job done. The doors sound solid now, no more empty can noise... but one thing I did not consider was the weight... the doors seem heavy now... so scratching my head... wish I would have done a little more research...

[Jesse49chevy]

My hands and arms look as if I got in a fight with a cat...

[Jesse49chevy]

After fighting that cat, I installed the window regulator, door latch and the door seal... I was dreading it as I was afraid to screw it up. After watching Jerry Kassis with Dr. J's Restoration on YouTube about 100 times... I built up the courage to go for it... a little messy but glad I watched his detailed video... so left door done and installed.

[Jesse49chevy]

Radiator is on for good as well...

[8man]

You're getting there. Looks good.

[Jesse49chevy]

Continued the sound/heat barrier project. Glad to finally have the cab floor, firewall and rear panel done.