S10 Swap how to

[skymangs]

my recovery is going as well as can be expected. Right now I'm using Dragon speak and a head mouse. I'm still in a wheelchair, but I can walk with my Walker. I was in a coma for two months so my muscles have atrophy.

[Black93GT]

Happy to see you back! I'm one of many who truly appreciate you efforts with this swap thread. It's been an enormous help for my project!!

What blows my mind is how effortlessly you seem to make the motor fit. It took me quite a few attempts and a few different mount revisions to get my motor and transmission (and headers DOH!) to fit with out hacking up the cab.

It looks like a rainy few days so I'll finally update my build thread.

[hicks_st]

We are in the process of following your build steps on swapping onto S10 frame. Everything has been great but we are stumped on your motor mounts. We are using the 4.3 with the standard trans. What mounts are you using on the motor side when you built the engine mounts? If we use the same brackets that are already on the motor with your engine mount design it will be a solid mount with no rubber isolation.

[joedoh]

I am not skymangs but I used speedway universal mount stands and chevelle 350 mounts. I could not figure how to use the stock s10 4.3 clamshell mounts without using the stock frame side mount. we did it that way on the 47 (moved the stock frame side mount back)



but I used the speedway universal weld in mounts and 350 70s chevelle motor mounts (4.99 any parts store) on the 49






I moved the motor 6" on the 47 and had to use an electric fan. I moved the motor 7.5 inches on the 49 to leave room for the clutch fan.

[HUSSEY]

Nor am I Skymangs...but this is how I did mine.

S10 conversion mounts bolted to the chassis. The passenger side will bolt on directly. The drivers side chassis will require re-drilling the two lower holes to bolt the mount on. You can use a 1990 S10 2.8L motor mount as a guide, you'll see what I mean when you have the parts in front of you.

1990 S10 2.8L Motor Mounts bolted to the engine, Anchor brand 2436. You can also use a 1990 Corvette Motor Mount, Achor brand 2713








Anchor 2436, 1990 S10 2.8L

[joedoh]

hey hussey that works great for a v8 because the v8 needs to move forward on the s10 chassis when used in an s10 bodied truck so its a net 7 or 8 inch rear move with them reversed, but with a 4.3 its only 4.5" rear move and that isnt enough for the fan clutch. thats why we made our own plates for the 47, we made them just like the swap plates, for a net 6 inch rearward move, which still wasnt enough for the clutch fan.

works great for a v8 though.

[Black93GT]

I made the same basic mounts as Skymangs. Some 3/8 plate and some black pipe.

I pulled the 327 out of my Camaro and used it as is. The mount pads are just like the ones Joedoh posted.... although 51 years older.

[hicks_st]

Originally Posted by joedoh

I am not skymangs but I used speedway universal mount stands and chevelle 350 mounts. I could not figure how to use the stock s10 4.3 clamshell mounts without using the stock frame side mount. we did it that way on the 47 (moved the stock frame side mount back)



but I used the speedway universal weld in mounts and 350 70s chevelle motor mounts (4.99 any parts store) on the 49






I moved the motor 6" on the 47 and had to use an electric fan. I moved the motor 7.5 inches on the 49 to leave room for the clutch fan.

I figured out my problem. I have two s10s one complete and the one I'm using for this build. When I got the s10 the guy was just supposed to bring me the rolling chassis. He ended up bringing a running truck minus interior, bed, hood. Etc. it fired right up. I saw it was a 6 cylinder and just figured I'd use it since it was running and just doing a cheap build. Well after further investigation it is actually the 2.8 v6. I was not aware that was an option. Rookie mistake.

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

...but with a 4.3...

Ahh, I missed that part. Yep, to get a fan clutch in there you'd have to move it way back. Mine barely had room for an electric fan and I put my valve covers within an inch from the firewall.

But, in my defense of missing the 4.3 part, who would in their right mind put a V6 in their hot rod, I could see a straight-6 but a V6???

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by HUSSEY

Ahh, I missed that part. Yep, to get a fan clutch in there you'd have to move it way back. Mine barely had room for an electric fan and I put my valve covers within an inch from the firewall.

But, in my defense of missing the 4.3 part, who would in their right mind put a V6 in their hot rod, I could see a straight-6 but a V6???

both of mine have been 4.3 vortec. the LU3 is 195 HP and 260 tq. a tbi 350 is 200 HP and 300 tq. these trucks are so light, just about anything makes it a tire melter. even the 2.8 V6

and I must not be a compensater, I had a 65 fullsize with a 2.2

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

both of mine have been 4.3 vortec. the LU3 is 195 HP and 260 tq. a tbi 350 is 200 HP and 300 tq. these trucks are so light, just about anything makes it a tire melter. even the 2.8 V6

and I must not be a compensater, I had a 65 fullsize with a 2.2

I recall the 65 with a 2.2L in it, very cool truck, project Slow Ride it was called wasn't it?

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by HUSSEY

I recall the 65 with a 2.2L in it, very cool truck, project Slow Ride it was called wasn't it?

yep, it was originally spelled s10 ride without a "w" and no one got it. "essten ride? whatinthehells that?" so I changed it from the play on words to the phonetic pronunciation, adding the w and changing the 10 to an LO. people were polarized by it, loved it or hated it. some of the coolest guys just asked questions and let me ask questions about their trucks. some guys were less impressed, and most of their trucks were still at home with big plans. I didnt care though, I didnt even put in a radio, just cruised it around for hours at a time. one more for the books.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by HUSSEY

Ahh, I missed that part. Yep, to get a fan clutch in there you'd have to move it way back. Mine barely had room for an electric fan and I put my valve covers within an inch from the firewall.

But, in my defense of missing the 4.3 part, who would in their right mind put a V6 in their hot rod, I could see a straight-6 but a V6???

you cannot run a fan clutch. The fan won't clear the lower hose, I tried it. Did not work.

[T-P Auto]

Chris;;

Very glad to hear n see you up n around.

Just take is slow n easy;

Hope this years Holidays are better for you.

Glad to hear your getting a shop going again.

Happy Holidays;

T-P Auto
Tim

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by HUSSEY

Nor am I Skymangs...but this is how I did mine.

S10 conversion mounts bolted to the chassis. The passenger side will bolt on directly. The drivers side chassis will require re-drilling the two lower holes to bolt the mount on. You can use a 1990 S10 2.8L motor mount as a guide, you'll see what I mean when you have the parts in front of you.

1990 S10 2.8L Motor Mounts bolted to the engine, Anchor brand 2436. You can also use a 1990 Corvette Motor Mount, Achor brand 2713








Anchor 2436, 1990 S10 2.8L

I just use 1990 Camaro V8 mount's, they seem to be the cheapest.

[skymangs]

Yeah, I'm up and answering any questions anyone may have. If they would just follow my build instructions exactly they would be fine. I even included pictures to make it easier.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by CaliforniaDaddy

Hey skymangs, If i found a complete running 96 longbed with the 5 speed manual transmission, can I use that tranny on a SBC 350 engine?

You can, but, your need a special clutch. Use the s10 Bell housing go to O'Reilly and tell them what you're trying to do. You'll also need the slave cylinder.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by 4orty6and2

Evening guys and skymangs! New guy here, been doing soooo much reading and checking out everybodies trucks.. love this site!!! First post on the forum and here is where its going to be!
Ive read every one of these posts 15 times over before I went digging in .. im a measure twice cut once guy... anyways. Im working on a 1951 AD short bed, have it finally sitting on an 89 S10 long bed chassis,, ive put a whole new front end in, quick ratio steering box, 4x4 (top of the line 04ish Envoy) rear diff with sway bar, disk and 3:73 gears(rare im told)

anyways I made your version 1 mounts and have tacked the fronts 2 1/8th" forward of the oval frame hole just behind the flare of the frame , I have the back end resting on a floor jack just to double check where the rears mounts need to go.. and where I need to be is 8 1/8th from the rear of the 5/8 hole.. which is fine.. but something isn't looking right to me. I have the drivers fender someone dangling there just to get a visual.. I don't seem to be centered in the wheel well , its like the cab needs to move forward some... ut I just wanted to ask if this is looking right to you.. I have uploaded a few pics.. your help and knowledge has and is greatly appreciated!!!

looks great to me. Now put on your 2 inch drop spindles to bring down the front end.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by tlorber

Does anyone here have a detail or pictures of what you you did for the parking brake? Did you use the S10 bracket, or adapt something else?

Thanks.

I only ever put in a parking brake on the 48. Michael's truck. I used the stock pedal assembly and cable from the s10.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by wibas

I believe if you check around there are master cylinders made to work with disc brakes that are pedal mount and made to be mounted under the floor. I would do about anything to keep my disc brakes.

look at my 49 build in my signature. I have four wheel disc brakes with a manual master cylinder under the floor. It stops great. But it has a stiff pedal. It's a dual reservoir from a 72 Chevelle. I just went in to O'Reilly and asked for one I detailed it in my build thread.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by rtinniste

Dude first off thank you this was the info I was looking for.
And i agree if i can buy the mounts I'd rather do that saves time from having to fab them. Short water pump was going to go on regardless i have a spare brand new short water pump from my dads c10 build. i was planning on notching fuel pump clearance on the frame seems like everyone has to do that. And yea those motor mount bolts are a pain ask me how i know i ended up just drilling the heads off on both mounts luckily the ends all fell out of the frame.
Main thing was i wanted to make sure the motor mounts will push the motor back far enough to the firewall to clear a fan with a short water pump. So ill order up the jags that run mounts gives me 3/4" side to side adjustment which should help with snaking the steering linkage in there.

Now another question i know s10 headers will work i also read somewhere that Camaro exhaust manifolds fit? How about block huggers i can get a pair of headman blockhuggers for a decent price.

Square body Camaros exit from the rear, and are perfect for an S10 swap.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by Clay54

Thanks Jeff, for your quick response. I can send you the e-mail from Chris that he sent me when I ask about this very thing. I thought he was talking about some small round support but this is the link he sent me. Yes, in my opinion, the S10 support is still used and these are in addition. First the cab stand then the S10 support and then these or the delron spacer to go in that space you are calling the "U brace".

I was hoping someone that had done this could comment about using these mounts. Thanks again, Clay

Okay, on the 51 through 54 cabs you do not need the Del Ron or cutting a half inch out of the rear mounts. You just need to use the core support bushings instead of the cab mount bushings. The core support bushings will fit in the U brackets.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by Garyhenrich

You are right, I stand corrected. 22" wide X 19" tall. I got my from speedway. I got a cheap one, would have been better to pay more, if running Automatic, get the integrated AT cooler, drain, straight outlet is better.
Posted via Mobile Device

Actually an AT cooler runs your transmission cooler if it is outside of your radiator. I have found that the transmission actually runs warmer with an integrated cooler.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Actually an AT cooler runs your transmission cooler if it is outside of your radiator. I have found that the transmission actually runs warmer with an integrated cooler.

make sure you get the right kind of external trans cooler, a plate cooler works much better than a fin type.

you are right that an external cooler runs cooler than a radiator mounted cooler but there are two reasons the rad cooler is a good idea:

1. the trans takes longer to warm up with an external cooler, and a cold trans is a sluggish trans. the engine warms up much faster and works as a trans fluid heater in warmup and freezing weather.

2. surface heat transfer works much better in fluid than air (yes air is a fluid, but a relatively weak one), the fluid allows conduction of trans fluid heat to the coolant through the body of the cooler, increasing the efficiency of the transfer. plate and fin external coolers rely on CONVECTION, convection is pretty inefficient which is why you need such a LARGE radiator or external trans cooler compared to the little tiny trans cooler mounted in the radiator.

transmission damage is exponential over about 300 degrees, and your radiator cooling system can do a lot of heat transfer before it gets to even 260. a lot of guys with heavy duty trans applications will ADD a plate style trans cooler to the existing rad cooler to keep the warmup/cold weather performance and even help shed heat. my neighbor followed this advice on his tow rig and his trans temp never gets over about 200.

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

make sure you get the right kind of external trans cooler, a plate cooler works much better than a fin type.

you are right that an external cooler runs cooler than a radiator mounted cooler but there are two reasons the rad cooler is a good idea:

1. the trans takes longer to warm up with an external cooler, and a cold trans is a sluggish trans. the engine warms up much faster and works as a trans fluid heater in warmup and freezing weather.

2. surface heat transfer works much better in fluid than air (yes air is a fluid, but a relatively weak one), the fluid allows conduction of trans fluid heat to the coolant through the body of the cooler, increasing the efficiency of the transfer. plate and fin external coolers rely on CONVECTION, convection is pretty inefficient which is why you need such a LARGE radiator or external trans cooler compared to the little tiny trans cooler mounted in the radiator.

transmission damage is exponential over about 300 degrees, and your radiator cooling system can do a lot of heat transfer before it gets to even 260. a lot of guys with heavy duty trans applications will ADD a plate style trans cooler to the existing rad cooler to keep the warmup/cold weather performance and even help shed heat. my neighbor followed this advice on his tow rig and his trans temp never gets over about 200.

Excellent clarification. Running at the right temperature is more important that running cooler. I would run a cooler in the transmission before I ran an external cooler, especially if your ever did any cool weather driving. I've never installed one but I've see bypass thermostats for better warm-up and better automatic transmission temperature control.

http://derale.com/products/fluid-coo...-chrome-detail