72 K30 Build

[Dieselwrencher]

Looking nice!

[JJorgensen52]

It's amazing how just a little time in the spray booth can make SO MUCH difference in how far along your project looks and feels. I better get busy catching up!

[7dee2]

Thanks guys so used to looking at the old fugly, greasy frames for so long it is a bit of a shock!

Paint booth is gone and starting assembly, putting in all of the cross members finger tight so we don’t have to fight them.

[7dee2]

We used a ½” impact gun to tighten all the bolts from the center of the frame working outward. Here are some pics of the hangers & bump stops installed.

Still need to add a couple more small brackets (front shock, front & rear brake line), braces (gas tank mount) and the frame will be done.

[rgunlock]

Frame is looking really nice Brett. I like that you know its also rust-free and painted behind the brackets.

[Dieselwrencher]

That is some nice work! It looks very nice.

[7dee2]

Thanks Rick & DW! When bolting the frame together the flange bolts did tear into the paint layer and the bolts have no corrosion protection. Thought we better put a coat of paint on all the bolts followed by a coat of satin clear over the whole frame. Here are some pics after clearing, looks dusty but it is just overspray dust that comes right off.

[mjensen]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Thanks Rick & DW! When bolting the frame together the flange bolts did tear into the paint layer and the bolts have no corrosion protection. Thought we better put a coat of paint on all the bolts followed by a coat of satin clear over the whole frame. Here are some pics after clearing, looks dusty but it is just overspray dust that comes right off.

This is looking killer Brett!

You'll be happy to know I'm actually going to make some more progress this weekend as well! I'm now considering switching over to the NP205 TCase because I don't want to deal with this T-221 and reworking the exhaust.

[72MARIO]

I am trying to get all my parts together to build my 1968 longhorn frame I bought what I believe to be a 1981 1 1/4 ton military frame. The rear spring hangers look diffirent than yours any idea what the differences are in years ? I also looked at a 1972 2500 4X4 and yours look so much taller.What year was your dually chassis ?

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by 72MARIO

I am trying to get all my parts together to build my 1968 longhorn frame I bought what I believe to be a 1981 1 1/4 ton military frame. The rear spring hangers look diffirent than yours any idea what the differences are in years ? I also looked at a 1972 2500 4X4 and yours look so much taller.What year was your dually chassis ?

The high GVWR military trucks are an animal all to themselves, so there is not a lot of commonality with what Brett is doing here.

The major reason for the height difference is the axles themselves - the 2500 series trucks used a Dana 44HD front axle, while the 3500 series trucks used a Dana 60 - the axle is larger and taller in every respect, making the front of the truck sit up higher.

[Zane M]

I don't know how I missed this thread previously.
You are doing a fantastic job! Looking forward to further progress.

[71blksuper4x4]

Looking good Brett!

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by mjensen

This is looking killer Brett!

You'll be happy to know I'm actually going to make some more progress this weekend as well! I'm now considering switching over to the NP205 TCase because I don't want to deal with this T-221 and reworking the exhaust.

Thanks Mike, glad to see the forward progress happening on your project. You get your truck running again and it’ll motivate you finish I’m sure of it!

Originally Posted by 72MARIO

I am trying to get all my parts together to build my 1968 longhorn frame I bought what I believe to be a 1981 1 1/4 ton military frame. The rear spring hangers look diffirent than yours any idea what the differences are in years ? I also looked at a 1972 2500 4X4 and yours look so much taller.What year was your dually chassis ?

Originally Posted by JJorgensen52

The high GVWR military trucks are an animal all to themselves, so there is not a lot of commonality with what Brett is doing here.

The major reason for the height difference is the axles themselves - the 2500 series trucks used a Dana 44HD front axle, while the 3500 series trucks used a Dana 60 - the axle is larger and taller in every respect, making the front of the truck sit up higher.

72Mario, Jim is spot on with the Dana 60 info and his 72 GMC K3500 build has been a huge help and inspiration for this project, so if you have not yet make sure to check his build out. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=573671

My donor was a 1984 GMC K3500 3+3 (D60F/T400/NP205/14BFF DRW C&C) we are using the axles, transfer case and various other bits & pieces. Everything in our suspension is 71-72 K20 except the rear, rear position spring hangers and the rear spring packs (9/1) which are refurbed from the 84 K3500. These rear hangers measure just barely over 8” from the top of the bracket to the center of the inner eyelet. Sorry not the best pic holding the tape and camera at the same time but you get the idea.

We got all of our K20 stuff from forum vendor DLTruck1973, Tom & Thomas they are great to work with and I’m sure could help with any square body parts as well.

Originally Posted by Zane M

I don't know how I missed this thread previously.
You are doing a fantastic job! Looking forward to further progress.

Thanks Zane M, me too!

Originally Posted by 71blksuper4x4

Looking good Brett!

Thanks Trevor, I like the new avatar looks great!

[7dee2]

So the boy & I are thinking of going in a new direction?

[flashed]

Now that there is an uptown rig .

[7dee2]

Yep, still waiting for somebody to pass us the gray poop on!


Back to the build, it's time to do something with the diffs. Started on the 14b and found it needs a little more than I originally thought. Drums are to be discarded @ 13.09" ours are both about 13.125". Also on closer inspection decided we should speedi-sleeve both hub seal areas both have multiple grooves.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Yep, still waiting for somebody to pass us the gray poop on!


Back to the build, it's time to do something with the diffs. Started on the 14b and found it needs a little more than I originally thought. Drums are to be discarded @ 13.09 ours are both about 13.125. Also on closer inspection decided we should speedi-sleeve both hub seal areas both have multiple grooves.

Seems like it might almost be easier just to pick up an axle in better shape?? Rebuilding the axles was one of my favorite parts of the K3500 build.

[7dee2]

Ha, my donor was no low mileage cream puff for sure! But I’m like you Jim rebuilding them is a big part of the fun and when done you know what you have and can count on.

After documenting the location of the remaining shock mount we removed it. With the narrow c&c 14b our mounts were centered @ 10.25” in from the brake backing plate mounting surface. For reference it also looks to be fairly in line horizontally with the housing and backing plate mounting bracket. That will not make much difference though our new ones are shaped more like the original GM ones.

[7dee2]

I’ve been on the fence about re-gearing the truck for a long time. It’s currently 4.56 and I’m thinking a 4.10/4.11 might be better for our application but with the carrier breaks between the two ratios that’s a big $$ commitment. I know I don’t want the rear to remain open so a new carrier is going to be needed, and no a locker is not an option for this build. Leaning towards a Truetrac carrier Eaton has a spiffy video here http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsS...dex.htm#tabs-5

Did find just a little bit of metal fragments hiding behind the left adjuster and tube don’t know if you can see it in the picture. Everything looks pretty good and that’s the only place I found it so may have been left over from an earlier problem.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

I’ve been on the fence about re-gearing the truck for a long time. It’s currently 4.56 and I’m thinking a 4.10/4.11 might be better for our application but with the carrier breaks between the two ratios that’s a big $$ commitment. I know I don’t want the rear to remain open so a new carrier is going to be needed, and no a locker is not an option for this build. Leaning towards a Truetrac carrier Eaton has a spiffy video here http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsS...dex.htm#tabs-5

Did find just a little bit of metal fragments hiding behind the left adjuster and tube don’t know if you can see it in the picture. Everything looks pretty good and that’s the only place I found it so may have been left over from an earlier problem.

+1 on the TruTrac - I've got one in the '50 and one going into my Sonoma GT. My brother used to work for Eaton Powertrain and I got to see the testing they do on those things - pretty impressive!

Regards the metal flakes - nothing in the bearings? That would be my major concern.

[Strider]

Hi 7dee2

Love the build and have been following.

I had to ask: What brand is your lift in your garage? Capacity?

I'm thinking of buying one myself!

Keep up the nice work.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by JJorgensen52

+1 on the TruTrac - I've got one in the '50 and one going into my Sonoma GT. My brother used to work for Eaton Powertrain and I got to see the testing they do on those things - pretty impressive!

Regards the metal flakes - nothing in the bearings? That would be my major concern.

My son in-law told me they had one in a jeep frontend that he and his brothers use to pound on, on a regular basis when they were younger. I'm thinking both front & rear what do you think?

Didn’t notice anything wrong with any of the bearings/races and only found the flakes after completely removing the adjuster from the housing. We’ve got a master rebuild kit coming with all new bearings so the goal is to do a really thorough cleaning prior to reassembly and replace everything!

Originally Posted by Strider

Hi 7dee2
Love the build and have been following.
I had to ask: What brand is your lift in your garage? Capacity?
I'm thinking of buying one myself!
Keep up the nice work.

Thanks Strider I appreciate the compliment. It’s an Eagle SS7000XLT (extra-long & tall) 7K capacity, we’ve been very happy with the lift over the years (10+). First bought it to stack cars in a storage unit then moved it to our garage after it was built and used it as an elevator to insulate, hang sheet rock etc., now paint booth its been a great tool.




Front diffs turn and you probably guessed, rotors are also at the discard point. Funny thing is the donor truck stopped pretty darn good I thought. I drove it at freeway speeds and in town for about 40 miles before tearing it down. No death wobble, straight down the road and probably stopped so well because the pads and shoes were fairly new.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

My son in-law told me they had one in a jeep frontend that he and his brothers use to pound on, on a regular basis when they were younger. I'm thinking both front & rear what do you think?

A lot of the off-road guys like to run them up front and a locker in the rear, it allows for a limited amount of wheelspeed differential so you really don't notice it during daily driving. Good choice for an all around rig

[mx289]

Frame looks great Brett.

Gonna be a roller before too long !

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by JJorgensen52

A lot of the off-road guys like to run them up front and a locker in the rear, it allows for a limited amount of wheelspeed differential so you really don't notice it during daily driving. Good choice for an all around rig

After reading that this type of carrier is recommended for front wheel drive and has very little feedback thought the steering that is the plan.

Originally Posted by mx289

Frame looks great Brett.

Gonna be a roller before too long !

Thanks mx289!


Both inner axles have a nice groove and are wet so we're calling them leakers and adding them to the scrap pile. It was hard to tell what leaked before teardown as everything had ¼”+ of grease on it!