Wife's 48

[8man]

Thanks Joe, now I don't even want to go out to that cab!

Just kidding, it'll be a challenge. Wish I could have found a 54 cab that wasn't so rusted out.

[mongocanfly]

Wow..that one pic looks like looking thru a screen door...I think that's what my 54 cab looks like to though...
I agree with others ..even with it on your cab dolley you really need to x brace it..you'll be amazed at how floppy itll get when you start cutting stuff loose..looks like you've got lots to keep you busy...I'd be tempted to just do a firewall swap...that's alot of holes and welding..leading to alot of heat warp..and with a firewall swap you can get a setback for engine clearance at the same time..

[dsraven]

With a firewall swap you can also bump it out for more foot room.

[8man]

Thanks Greg and Raven.

I have thought about the firewall swap over and over. I'm removing the rest of what was rusted and cut out by my buddy now. I'll decide later today.

Raven, do you have a suggestion on a firewall for more leg room? I'm kinda tall and that may swing the vote.

[joedoh]

I am getting spoiled, I have 3 bad cabs already and I chose this 4th cab because it needed the least work. now I am considering using that other grain truck cab because it doesnt need a lot of work either... and my 1 ton cab is almost perfect too.

54-55.1 cabs though, I think you take what you got. keep up the good work!

[8man]

Thanks Joe.

Well another day in the shop. So it was a good day, even though I didn't get much done.

I took some measurements prior to cutting out the rusted out chunk of the drivers side firewall.
IMG_0458 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

This is what I was left with.
IMG_0459 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Then I started fitting the floor panel in place. These things don't fit very well! About 2 hours of fitting, cutting and grinding and it fits pretty well. Ignore that piece of angle laying on the pans, I was just looking for level.
IMG_0460 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

So I sat and stared for the longest and finally I came in the house to check prices and availability of firewalls. There are just so many holes in the drivers side it's not funny, and the riders side is just as bad. I have NO idea what the PO was doing with all of those holes! I found a "stock" firewall at Classic Parts for $380 shipped to me. Right now I'm leaning toward that.

But before I do, please tell me what I'm missing on replacing the firewall. I have to drill out some spot welds on both sides and along the top. Then plug weld the new one in place unless I want it slick and then I'll have to weld it solid so it can be finished.

Before I take the old one out I need to cross brace to hold the cab in place until I can get it out and in. Will 1x1 square tube work for the cross brace?

The new floor pans will need to be cut down and flanged so they can be spot welded to the bottom flange on the new firewall.

How well does a reproduction firewall fit? Is there an option to get one that will fit better or are they all "cut, grind and re-fit until your are happy with it"?

I'm not lowering the truck, I'll be using the tall cab mounts, so I don't think I'll need a lot of engine clearance.

So what are the thoughts?

[mongocanfly]

1x1 tubing will be fine for x bracing..i think everything will be cut/grind/fit/repeat/repeat/repeat...until you get it like you want it..if you go stock firewall you can overlay your old one on the new one to see how close it is,,,and use it for a pattern

[8man]

Thanks Greg.

[dsraven]

If you have a metal recycler close you could see if they have anything for bracing. I h,ve used black gas line before because it was cheap.
You could also just cut the old one out shy of the spot welds, like leave a flange, then plug self the new one to the flange, or use body adhesive.

[8man]

Thanks Raven.

[8man]

Got on the 54 today. Ordered the new firewall, should be here next Thursday, I hope.

Here is the driver's side kick panel. I had no idea what it looked like behind that stuff.
IMG_0464 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

That is some type of carpet glue the PO used. It was almost 1/4" thick in places. After an hour with a paint scraper and some 3M general purpose adhesive remover and then a wire wheel, this is what I have.
IMG_0466 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

About 4 holes to patch. The rest is solid. Who knew? With the way my luck has been going on this truck I wasn't sure.

The rider's side was so rusted I knew it from the git go.

IMG_0465 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I'm ready to start fitting the new kick panel, so it will be ready when the firewall gets here.

They used the same glue on the ceiling.
IMG_0467 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

You can still see some of the carpet strands that didn't rot away! I'm planning on having the pros at Brazos Valley Restorations blast and prime the cab. We'll see if it comes off with that.

[oldman3]

Making progress Robert...Jim

[Tempest67]

looks like you are moving forward......keep it going

[8man]

Welded a support piece in to keep the cab stable. Then I removed the firewall, supposed to be getting the aftermarket one next week. Then I cut out the rusted out portion of the rider's side kick panel and then cut, fit and spot welded in the aftermarket piece.

IMG_0469 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Re-checked all my measurements and sure enough, the aftermarket piece is cut on a slightly different angle than the original. So I get to make it fit the firewall when I get it in.

On a separate thought, I'm trying to get a CNC cut 14 gauge floor piece to go in from the cross support at the back to the toe kick of the new firewall. I'll know more next week on that, but I think it would stiffen the floor some, replace the bent up floor that's left, do away with rust issues and with the firewall out would slide in and hopefully fall in place if my measurements are good.

[twinshadows]

Hi Robert . . . . I've been reading your builds . . . . .

so, Bryan, Tx ; One of my older sister's son 's , daughter is a local Cop there at Collage Station PD. And, I've only been to Bryan - once , back in the mid 60's . I had an Uncle that lived in Bryan , many years ago.
I can kind of relate ; but moved out west back in the late 80's ( and, we're staying here in AZ - - - no tornados) .

(my Uncle Hershell Eskue . . . . and, Courtney Nakos , Collage Station PD )
(you never know) .

Great job on both trucks - - keep building ; I'll keep following along …….
you're doing Great …………….. jim

[8man]

Thanks Jim.

[8man]

I went to Altman latches on the 54, but the combo of 49 doors and 54 cab left a gap at the door latch.
IMG_0471 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

So I bent and cut a small filler.
IMG_0473 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
No more gap.

I finished up the rider's side kick panel. It will probably get some type of cover, but I think it could be painted.
IMG_0474 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Got a cross brace installed. I've pulled and banged on it, seems pretty secure. No wiggle when I pull on the cab at the firewall.

Speaking of the firewall, look what came today.
IMG_0475 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I checked measurements and they are pretty close. So I struggled to get it up into place to check it, and overall it's pretty good, as far as I could see with it dropping on one side or the other every time I stopped concentrating on it.

NOW I need a tutorial "How to install the firewall BY YOURSELF!"

Really, if anyone has any tips and tricks I'd like to know.

Then, Laura came out in the shop today to look at the cab. We talked about stuff like she wants the hood to be slick. That brought up the cowl vent, and you guessed it, she thinks it should be slick too.

So if anyone has any tips and tricks to welding the cowl vent, I'd like to know.

On the floor, I'm thinking of cutting out all the old floor in front of the cross piece that goes just in front of the gas tank. Then I'm going to have a new CNC cut piece of 16 gauge to fit over the entire floor area. SIL's uncle has a machine shop here in town and can cut and bend it to my specifications. I thought about 14 gauge, but then I thought that might be a little hard to work with if my measurements are off a little. I can always weld some stiffeners on the bottom to give it more support. What do you think of that?

[mongocanfly]

Big magnets will be your friend holding that firewall...then use the clecos...firewall looks good!

[reaper71]

Looking Good Robert!


Mark

[youngrodder]

Funny discovered just he opposite. I have a 53 cab with 48 doors so my plates don't fit right. We could have swapped.

Marc

[8man]

Thanks Mark.

Marc, why didn't you tell me? I would have gladly swapped.

[Tempest67]

I think you should start adding metal before you cut out any more.

I see the 2 inner braces on the new firewall (interior). I think I would start by attaching them to the upper firewall with sheet metal screws. This will allow the new firewall to hang in place while you position the floor pieces, and allow you to move it up or down as needed. (reposition the sheet metal screws)

I see your floor pieces include about 12 inches of firewall. My 51 has a seam at the floor/firewall that bends outward, and that is where the 2 pieces are spot welded together.... is that what you want? or you could cut a straight edge on the floor piece, just above the bend, and use that to lap weld the pieces together?...not factory, but plenty strong.

many ways to 'skin this cat', just take your time, and don't start welding till everything fits together........... just my 2 cents

Keep us posted, and enjoy the process.

[8man]

Thanks Tempest, that is what I was going to do. However, the SIL's uncle has a machine shop here and I've talked to them about doing the full floor. To do that I need the firewall out so I can get the floor in. I'll brace it up some more before I remove any more of the existing floor, and only then when I have the new floor ready to go in.

[8man]

Today was a good day, and as Forrest would say, "that's one less thing."
IMG_0476 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Once it was slicked up, I went to the drivers side cowl and started removing it.
IMG_0477 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I tried a small drill bit and then a spot weld remover bit, then on some I tried a larger drill bit, and I finally wound up with a BFH and a seam splitter. It is mostly off below the top cowl area. That bondo is over 1/4" thick in places and the entire door side is just beat to heck.

If there is a way to do this without so much work, I'd like to know.

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by 8man

Thanks Mark.

Marc, why didn't you tell me? I would have gladly swapped.

Funny I didn't realize I had the issues until I tried to bolt up my freshly painted plates to keep them from getting all scratched up...ha ha. I guess I will repaint them after a slight modification.

Marc