Tricked-out Chevy six cylinder engines

[vegadesign]

Originally Posted by T.J. MCCAULEY

The one they sell is probably the offenhouser.

yea it is, it runs for about $300

[Twisted6]

Originally Posted by Vernski

But that's why they make re-jet kits so you can lean em' out to the sweet spot
for air & fuel not just slap em' on there and sink & swim that is if you think outside the box. You just want to start a pissing match, just try to be happy with yourself now..Vernski

I used to run a 600 holley stock out of the box and a BONE stock 250 with a offey intake. Another thing to think about. If you unhook the secondarys on any 4b carb You'll only use half of what it is. 600 cfm / 300cfm, 450 /225cfm.

[Vernski]

Originally Posted by Twisted6

I used to run a 600 holley stock out of the box and a BONE stock 250 with a offey intake. Another thing to think about. If you unhook the secondarys on any 4b carb You'll only use half of what it is. 600 cfm / 300cfm, 450 /225cfm.

I don't really see why you can't use the smaller weber 32-36 DGEV in a multi carb application just one of them is designed for 1.9-2.0 liter motor and they are in use on motorcycles also re-jeted down or up depending what size Hog it is. All I said in my earlier post was I liked the looks of multi carbs, but it morphed into hear-say info after that cause someone had there own agenda.,Vernski
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/category_s/690.htm

[inthearmynow]

WOW you guys have some crazy setups

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by Vernski

I don't really see why you can't use the smaller weber 32-36 DGEV in a multi carb application just one of them is designed for 1.9-2.0 liter motor and they are in use on motorcycles also re-jeted down or up depending what size Hog it is. All I said in my earlier post was I liked the looks of multi carbs, but it morphed into hear-say info after that cause someone had there own agenda.,Vernski
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/category_s/690.htm

Does anybody know the cfm of a weber 32/36 or the 38? I thought that the 32/36 was around 270 cfm....I could be wrong. It seems like dual weber 38's are just over 600 cfm.

[TJ's Chevy]

That webercarbdirect sight that vernski put on makes sence. The 32/36 is made for a 2.0 liter so the dual system would be just fine on a four liter or just a tad lean on a 4.8(292). The 38 is made for a 2.8 so the dual would be four a 5.6(327) a little rich for the 250. Know what really cool is on page 153 on the power manual you can see dual 1150 holley dominator carbs on a chevy 292(I think). Love the looks of that!

[JR25]

I posted this on my build thread, instead of rehashing it out, I will just copy paste! Anyway, i have been watching this thread for a long time now since my first build will be powered by an inline 6!

Originally Posted by JR25

Any of y'all ever built one of these stove bolt 6s? Turns out there is a collar that holds the oil pump in the bottom of the block. This collar is attached by two bolts from the outside of the block, which I now know was not supposed to be removed...... Yep, got mine out! The block was casted so that after what must have been a double shoulder bolt was installed, they were cut off flush, which makes them appear to be round head bolts! It looked to me like a rounded off standard bolt with all the years of grime in the hole, so I drilled into the heads and used an easy out! Now I have been told that the block is a paper weight! I think that is the "answer" that everyone will give you, along with several opinions why, but I don't give up that easy! I have had EVERYTHING machined for this block and crank, and would just have a box of parts if I abandoned it now, unless I wanted to buy another block of the same year (or as much as a couple of years newer) and have it ored 80 over.
It seems that the biggest problem with removing the bolts is that there is now way to get them back in, at least not to someone less determined and less creative than me! I plan to clean up the holes that I drilled in the bolts for the easy out, tap those holes, and use a bolt to turn the original bolts back into their old holes. Then I could either cut of the slave bolts, or just remove them! The holes don't even go in as deep as the original threads, so I really don't think strength would be an issue.

ANYONE have any input on this? Am I really screwed?

Inline 6s aren't too popular on here it seems, and yes I know about all the forums dedicated to them......but quite frankly, no one on the other sites are nearly as helpful as you guys! The first reply would most likely be "use the search function!" really? Don't you think that a guy who might have just made a thousand dollar rookie mistake hasn't panicked and searched EVERY thread on the net that he can find?

Anyway, if it don't work, I guess I ruin my cam and dizzy gear, and have to back up and punt, but for now it's "third down and long!"
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Anyway, I have reinstalled it like planned, and will post pics when I get them uploaded. Just curious if anyone else has "ruined" then saved a block by removing those stupid bolts that shoild have been WELDED in place if they are that sacred...... I know I know......if I would have read all the books that I spent good money on, it wouldn't have happened!

John
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[chevy_mike]

Originally Posted by JR25

I posted this on my build thread, instead of rehashing it out, I will just copy paste! Anyway, i have been watching this thread for a long time now since my first build will be powered by an inline 6!



Anyway, I have reinstalled it like planned, and will post pics when I get them uploaded. Just curious if anyone else has "ruined" then saved a block by removing those stupid bolts that shoild have been WELDED in place if they are that sacred...... I know I know......if I would have read all the books that I spent good money on, it wouldn't have happened!

John
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Actually, that quoted text is referring to the Stovebolt Inline 6 engine series which is not the same series that was introduced in '62 and ran into the late 80's. The 194/230/250/292 series engines share nothing in common outside of having 6 pistons inline, with the older series. Based on what I had read, I don't even think I want to mess with the earlier series as they don't have a lot of the modern "tech" built into them. Stovebolts are the old school engine.

[JR25]

Originally Posted by chevy_mike

Actually, that quoted text is referring to the Stovebolt Inline 6 engine series which is not the same series that was introduced in '62 and ran into the late 80's. The 194/230/250/292 series engines share nothing in common outside of having 6 pistons inline, with the older series. Based on what I had read, I don't even think I want to mess with the earlier series as they don't have a lot of the modern "tech" built into them. Stovebolts are the old school engine.

Yep, mine is a 235....... Old school! That was my quoted text, I just posted it here as well hoping someone on this thread had dealt with it before.

I hope to be able to post pics of my engine on here when it is done..... If yall dont mind seeing "old school" 6's!
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[Vernski]

Originally Posted by JR25

Yep, mine is a 235....... Old school! That was my quoted text, I just posted it here as well hoping someone on this thread had dealt with it before.

I hope to be able to post pics of my engine on here when it is done..... If yall dont mind seeing "old school" 6's!
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I think some pic's of the area in question would help, I would think you could JB-weld the holes that were drilled after you re-installed the bolts. Just make sure it's free of oil so it will stick good. I've had a few 235's overhauled but sent the block out to have them checked out and then re-installed the rotating assembly, just never had encountered your specific problem..Vernski

[JR25]

Originally Posted by Vernski

I think some pic's of the area in question would help, I would think you could JB-weld the holes that were drilled after you re-installed the bolts. Just make sure it's free of oil so it will stick good. I've had a few 235's overhauled but sent the block out to have them checked out and then re-installed the rotating assembly, just never had encountered your specific problem..Vernski

Im working a little faster than Im posting, great minds think alike!
I used the steel reinforced JB Weld on them yesterday!
Give me a bit and I will upload the pics of what I did!
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[JR25]

As requested:





Should be obvious that they are supposed to stay in now!
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[chevy_mike]

Wow, that's just a crazy design. LOL Sounds like you have it handeled

[Vernski]

Originally Posted by chevy_mike

Wow, that's just a crazy design. LOL Sounds like you have it handeled

X2 what mike said, I think as long as the collar& bolts hold the oil pump firmly and the cam turns I think it will be ok, that's not an implied warrenty you understand, but I think you saved it from being a boat anchor good luck..Vernski

[JR25]

Thanks guys, I will keep yall posted!!
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[K98AL]

I put a Weber 32/36 on my 235 - I'm running Fenton headers, HEI ignition, everything else is pretty stock. Had engine rebuilt 15,000 miles ago.
The standard 140/140 jets left me way too rich, I swapped for 135/155. (thanks Rich!!!)
Still too rich, I put a 130 in primary side. Not much difference. With idle screw not touching the linkage, and idle mix screw adjusted for good running, (around 1 turn out) - I'm still running more RPMs than I should....
Does a 120 or 125 primary jet sound right to you with Weber experience?

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by K98AL

I put a Weber 32/36 on my 235 - I'm running Fenton headers, HEI ignition, everything else is pretty stock. Had engine rebuilt 15,000 miles ago.
The standard 140/140 jets left me way too rich, I swapped for 135/155. (thanks Rich!!!)
Still too rich, I put a 130 in primary side. Not much difference. With idle screw not touching the linkage, and idle mix screw adjusted for good running, (around 1 turn out) - I'm still running more RPMs than I should....
Does a 120 or 125 primary jet sound right to you with Weber experience?

I think your best bet if your going to stay mostly stock would be two stock 1 barrels. I don't think it would run to rich with those. Do you know if the 235 is larger or smaller than a 2 liter? The 32/36 is made for that size. But most of the webers I have seen were on 4 cylinders... What type of hei are you running? You could go with a hotter hei and spark plugs and that would help.
I am running a 40,000 volt pertronix ignitor with ngk 4es spark plugs and its actually running to hot! Not even close to rich. Going to swap the pertronix for a DUI and go back to a cooler spark( ngk 6es). My buck and a half.

[chevy_man5]

Got the engine in my sons truck!

Still some stuff to get done, but here is the basics!

Yes, I know the motor mount is missing... The one from the 230 does not fit on that side. Looking for a new one! Bell housing and passenger side in and bolted though!

[JR25]

Nice and clean Jason..... I like it!
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[chevy_man5]

Thanks JR25!!

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by chevy_man5

Thanks JR25!!

Great job! Love the paint job!

[chevy_man5]

Thanks T.J.!

[Vernski]

Here is a cool link this would be quite a motor it' a Chevy vortec 4200 I6 24 valve dual overhead cam all aluminum block and it produces 270 hp from 256 cu. 90% of the torque from 1600-5600 rpm. "Holy crap Batman"..Vernski

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ne_six_engine/

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by Vernski

Here is a cool link this would be quite a motor it' a Chevy vortec 4200 I6 24 valve dual overhead cam all aluminum block and it produces 270 hp from 256 cu. 90% of the torque from 1600-5600 rpm. "Holy crap Batman"..Vernski

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ne_six_engine/

I'll bet that thing gets great milage to! Cool motor! Never even knew they were made.

[JR25]

Ok......... I think I finally finished the engine build, not in the truck and running, but here is as close as I could get to "tricked out" for an old timed 235!



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