Project Reno - 72 cheyenne rebuild

[First c10]

The starter cover you have looks like the one that came with my 4.8/4L60. do you have the one that came with your motor?

[cmabolt]

Motor came with no trans. I only have the stock plates that came with both bell housings I had for the 350.

[First c10]

Actually both one templates you have look real close to the originals I can take a picture when I go to my shop if you want. get a part number maybe?

[cmabolt]

Well that would be great. Save me some time definitely.

Thanks

[DWilbur]

That explains it all LS and SM465

[First c10]

Sorry man but I had to work both days this weekend so I didn't get to the shop. I will try tomorrow.

[cmabolt]

No worries. I am slammed with work as well so won't be fabricating anything for a couple weeks.

I appreciate the favor.

Chris

[cmabolt]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

That explains it all LS and SM465

Yup...SM465. A proven performer and with the short throw top cover, should be fun for a while. I really did want to put in a NV4500, but funds and all the chit chat about 5th gear eventually being a problem kinda helped me stick with what I have. I will in the near future upgrade the cam in the motor and will probably do the trans at the same time. I plan to go with whatever the best 5th gear remedy
is out there on the inter web as well so will either buy a new one or rebuild with high end parts.

The main issue is I will have to do the driveshafts again and deal with a host of other mods that you're all to familiar with.

For now though, this setup is pretty nice and will work.

Chris

[DWilbur]

Ya it's hard to beat SM465 they have done a great job designing it and it's proven it's self over and aver again. I still have mine and 205.

[cmabolt]

Howdy all. Well in my quest to find someone that could do REAL wood dash pieces, I found this guy in Texas. Very nice, semi-retired and based on conversation with him he seems like a good guy to deal with. For those of you that might want to go the real wood route on your cheyenne's, here is a link to the product he is making. Every dash is custom made to your specifications. The company name is Wabbit's wood works and here's a link:

http://www.hotrodhotline.com/pr/2009/09wabbitsmay2/

I have not decided if I am going to go this route based on the types of wood he uses, but will update this if I indeed use him. Hope this helps someone... out there... searching...
and searching....and searching...

[DWilbur]

Nice look'n wood work. I bet they cost a few bucks

[cmabolt]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

Nice look'n wood work. I bet they cost a few bucks

Well, considering the craftsmanship, I didn't think it was bad at all at $175.00 Unfortunately, due to the wood I wanted to use, I am gonna have to do this myself. After searching for a bit I sourced a nice piece of wood to do the glove box and ashtray covers. I would also like to do something with the center console, but that may require re-molding the hinged top piece so the wood can inlay somehow. That will be phase 2 I guess.

This is heavily figured curly maple. It looks almost pearl. I am going with an amber stain to match interior accents. Gonna plane it down to about a 1/4 inch and the rest will be by hand. I will do this step by step and take my time. Will be nice to do something that isn't metal for a change. If all goes well, the finished piece should be coated with glossy UV resistant crystal clear bar top epoxy resin and adhered with 3m trim tape.

On another front, my last round of jobs is almost wrapped up so will be able to get the truck finished up in July. I insured her yesterday so no turning back now.

Cheers
__________________

[DWilbur]

If the material is 3/4" thick re-saw it so you end up with 2 pieces 3/8" thick and plane them down to 1/4" double you material. if you don't have a band saw to re-saw you can have a lumber yard do it for you. I made a water ski that way back in high school skied on it for almost 15 years.

[cmabolt]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

If the material is 3/4" thick re-saw it so you end up with 2 pieces 3/8" thick and plane them down to 1/4" double you material. if you don't have a band saw to re-saw you can have a lumber yard do it for you. I made a water ski that way back in high school skied on it for almost 15 years.

That's a good idea, I will inquire about that. Would save time as well.

Today I was able to get the dust shield for the bell housing done and installed. Turned out pretty good I guess. They'll stop dust anyway.

The drivers side also serves as a spring point for the second clutch fork spring

Passengers side was a little more work and had to weld tangs on the upper right to keep it from pushing into the flywheel.

[Reno81K20]

Can you tell me more about the "Push to Start" button? I'd love that.

[cmabolt]

Originally Posted by Reno81K20

Can you tell me more about the "Push to Start" button? I'd love that.

I sourced my system from Advanced keys. They are a company in Canada. Unfortunately,
It was an afterthought and had I known the required hole in the dash was much smaller then
what exists in that location for stock ignition, I could have welded the hole up. They were eager to help and had a larger button, but it too was too small for the hole. I returned the system and was bummed not to be able to use it.

Instead I used the neutral safety switch wired into a toggle switch under the dash somewhere to shut off the ignition in an effort to add a theft deterrent feature. I have also heard of people that hide a push button switch into and behind the lighter. Pretty cool.

Anyway, check out the website if interested. The whole advanced keys system is slick. It enables the ignition as you approach the car. Has the ability to unlock doors, start the car etc.

http://www.advancedkeys.com/Prod_AK104B.html

[Reno81K20]

Thank you,. This might just make it into my 85 C-20 .

[cmabolt]

Wood work
Well, had a day to get some of the trim work done. A friend of a friend planed the wood down to 3/16" and that gave me a good base to fine tune the wood. I was able to template the glove box and ashtray and transfer that to the curly maple. Today I cut, shaped and sanded the wood to a thickness I liked. A few woodworkers I know recommended Watco Danish oil as the finish.

I did some tests and determined that a combo of two oils in several coats got me the look I wanted.

This is the initial coat with just golden oak. As I had hoped, the grain popped right out with some color.

I next added a few coats of the light walnut. This deepened the grain and richened the color. It will match the interior accents and be slightly lighter than the truck's paint.

In three days I will coat with bar top epoxy to give it a smooth glassy hard finish.

[swamp rat]

Looks like a good stain combination..

[rgunlock]

Me Likey!

[DWilbur]

Very cool can't wait to see the wood installed

[cmabolt]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Looks like a good stain combination..

Originally Posted by rgunlock

Me Likey!

Originally Posted by DWilbur

Very cool can't wait to see the wood installed

Thanks guys. I can't wait to epoxy this stuff and add some depth/gloss. Next week should be a productive week. I hope to get the exhaust finished and wood trim installed.

[mjensen]

I got a quick question for you. As you had suggested, I ended up with the American Autowire harness. My question is how did you mount your fuse panel? Just using the two studs punching through the firewall? I really like how clean yours turned out! I found the picture, but couldn't quite tell.

[cmabolt]

Originally Posted by mjensen

I got a quick question for you. As you had suggested, I ended up with the American Autowire harness. My question is how did you mount your fuse panel? Just using the two studs punching through the firewall? I really like how clean yours turned out! I found the picture, but couldn't quite tell.

I used 2 stainless alen head or button head bolts that were inserted from the firewall side through the fuse panel and used nylon stainless lock nuts with a touch of anti seize. I drilled my firewall using the template provided in the kit. The kit comes with 2 long screws for the fuse panel which I did not use.

Glad you went with AAW. Let me know if you have any other questions.

[mjensen]

Originally Posted by cmabolt

I used 2 stainless alen head or button head bolts that were inserted from the firewall side through the fuse panel and used nylon stainless lock nuts with a touch of anti seize. I drilled my firewall using the template provided in the kit. The kit comes with 2 long screws for the fuse panel which I did not use.

Glad you went with AAW. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Awesome! Thank you! I just went through everything, and I don't see a template. I'll have to see if I can get it online. Mine also didn't come with any screws, but I'm going the same route you did anyway. Thanks again!