Project Family Chummins

[y5mgisi]

Good luck!

[Ackattack]

Changed out the rear u-joint. I really didn't think that was the problem, but figured I'd elimnate that possibility. So I got that done (probably the easiest one I've ever done so that's good).

Started it up and started moving, and I heard more popping. So I had my wife come move the truck forward and back, while I watch the driveline, but couldn't see anything. After looking and looking, I was thinking its the transfer case.

I took it for a test drive and same popping and shuttering in 3rd and 4th gear (so since its doing it in at least 3rd, 4th, and 5th I don't think its the transmission).

I get back to the house and figure I'll pop off the rear diff cover to check the rear gears. I've had the fluid to change it for a few weeks anyways, and figure I'd eliminate that. So I get the cover off and all looks good.

So that gets me back to the transfer case. I rebuilt the damn TC a few months ago. The rebuild pretty much consisted of new bearings. So now I'm thinking I need a new chain or something else in there. Before I order parts, I'm going to get the TC out and torn down to see what I need.

Pain in my butt, especially since I sold my suburban a few weeks ago and I have the transmission torn down out of my jeep. So I'm down to sharing the minivan with my wife

[Ackattack]

Well the verdict is in: the transfer case is junk.

The damage that I noted includes a messed up range fork and the front bearing on the main shaft is missing two rollers (at least). The oil pump was somewhat locked up, plastic and metal shavings, speedo gear damaged.





So I don't know what exactly the cause of the damage is. If you remember back initially, the transfer case had gear lube in it instead of tranny fluid. When I tore it apart, there was all kinds of rtv on the oil pump pickup. I probably should have replaced the pump and pickup when I rebuilt it, but I didn't. I supposed I could have messed something up when I rebuilt it too. I don't know exactly, but somehow in the process I probably could have done something better and this may not have happened.

It looks like new parts to rebuild it again are about $400, but since this truck is my daily driver I went ahead and just ordered a complete rebuilt transfer case for $700 from rock auto. It should be here by Thursday or Friday and I should be back in business!

I'll chalk this one up to a $700 lesson of not cheaping out on a few extra parts (oil pump and pickup) to do a quality rebuild.

[Dieselwrencher]

Man, that really sucks to hear about the Tcase deal!

[y5mgisi]

How crazy.

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Man, that really sucks to hear about the Tcase deal!

Yeah I know I was just about to pull the trigger on some injectors



Got the new transfer case installed and all is good!

While putting in the front drive shaft I over tightened on of the u joint bolts and broke it off. I don't have any easy outs small enough for a 1/4 inch bolt.....what to do? I grabbed a drill and drilled a small hole, then grabbed a small torx bit (probably a T-10) and hammered it into the hole and the broken bolt came out no problem! Just an idea for anyone else in this situation.
Posted via Mobile Device

[jbclassix]

Did the t-case input get damaged?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by jbclassix

Did the t-case input get damaged?
Posted via Mobile Device

No it was fine.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Ackattack]

I've been having an issue with difficult starts, especially in the mornings. I may have mentioned it earlier. I would have to give it some "gas" to get it started.

When I would take the fuel cap off, it'd hear air sucking into the tank. Well after doing a little reading, I realized that I still had the gasoline fuel cap on, which is unvented. I got a diesel fuel cap and it seems my hard starting issues have gone away!

[Palf70Step]

Glad you got another issue taken care of.

[Ackattack]

Stopped by the paint shop the other day to get a quote and went over the repairs and painting I want done on the truck. I haven't taken pictures of it (hard to see from the ground) but the paint is bubbled and there is rust above the windshield on the roof. So they're going to pop out the windshield and fix the rust. They're also going to take out a couple of dents and dings here and there.

We discussed the hood, and basically came to the conclusion that a new hood would be the better route to take. So while I was in KC, I stopped by LMC and got a new hood, chevy grill, and lower grill piece. I'll have to get that stuff installed before painting it. I'm also going to weld up a few holes that are in the rocker panels from what I assume are from some old running boards that were installed on the truck at one time. I'll have to modify the lower grill piece to fit around the intercooler and a/c condenser again. Hopefully I won't have to do much to the grill since hopefully the chevy grill will give me a little more room than the gmc grill does. Both the existing grill and lower piece are broken and cracked so need to be replace regardless of the fitment issue with the intercooler and A/C.

Hopefully I can have it at the paint shop here in a few weeks. My work schedule and getting it over there may be the difficult part of all of this.

[Ackattack]

Found a cracked injection line yesterday. Noticed a "rust line" on #1 line when I was adding a little power steering fluid. It isn't leaking fuel when running, which is amazing for how much pressure is downstream of the injection pump. When I lightly pushed on the line, the crack opens up, so its definately cracked.



I'm hoping I can win a set on ebay, otherwise I may just have to order one from the dealer.

I'm also about the get my jeep in a driveable condition (ordered a new pitman arm for it last night) so I'll be pulling this truck back in the garage to do some last little work before it goes for paint!

[y5mgisi]

Crazy! You would think fuel would come gushing out of there!

[Palf70Step]

[6lcummins]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

Found a cracked injection line yesterday. Noticed a "rust line" on #1 line when I was adding a little power steering fluid. It isn't leaking fuel when running, which is amazing for how much pressure is downstream of the injection pump. When I lightly pushed on the line, the crack opens up, so its definately cracked.



I'm hoping I can win a set on ebay, otherwise I may just have to order one from the dealer.

I'm also about the get my jeep in a driveable condition (ordered a new pitman arm for it last night) so I'll be pulling this truck back in the garage to do some last little work before it goes for paint!

If you don't win them on Ebay let Ryan or myself know, I bet we have a set of lines laying around.

[Ackattack]

I got a set coming off eBay, thanks though.

[Ackattack]

I finished up my little mini project (94 K1500 ext cab) today, so I pulled the big truck back in the garage to prep it for paint and a few other things (injection line and the belt is making a weird noise I'll have to check into)

So I popped off the gmc grill and put the chevy grill in place. Its still going to need some trimming. While I was at it, I clamped the flares in place to get an idea of how its going to look.

[mcbassin]

bummer about the transfer case. I've never heard of that but it is what it is I guess. On the bright side, It just keeps getting nicer.

[y5mgisi]

Just such a sweet truck.

[Ackattack]

The "new" injection line is installed. Once I got it off, I bent it to open up the crack, and it appears there is an inner tube and an outer tube and just the outer tubing was cracked, hence why it wasn't leaking fuel, but obviously it would have been a matter of time.

The reason why it cracked was probably because I didn't have any of the injection line clamps on them (they had been removed before I bought the dodge donor truck). The new set of lines had the clamps so I got them installed.

Then I removed the fan belt cause it was making a clicking noise. I inspected the belt and the accessory pulleys and the tensioner is on its way out, so I'll get that replaced here soon.

Then I moved on to removing the nerf bars (or whatever you call them).

Then I prepped the little holes in the cab corners to get welded shut. I'm assuming these little holes are from a previous set of running boards the truck had on it at some point in the past. When I hit the metal with a flap disk everything cleaned up well with no rusty surprises. Hopefully I'll get them welded up in a few days.

[Dieselwrencher]

Those flares look real nice on there.

[Ackattack]

Yesterday I worked on trimming the grill and lower panel. The grill required lots of trimming. The horizontal parts are about 1" thick and I had to trim them down to 1/4" in some areas. I also completely removed one of the vertical slats. So after about an hour of trimming and fitting I got it all finished up.

then I moved on to filling in more holes in the rocker panels until I ran out of gas. I picked up a fresh bottle tonight after work but I'm out of town, so I will get back to it tomorrow night.

[Ackattack]

Got the truck back from the paint shop. It looks pretty good. I had them fill the major dings, but they didn't fill all of them, but its not a show truck. Overall it looks pretty good. The color is a F*&d color "Tuxedo Black" and has some metallic in it. The paint also has some orange peal, that I'm sure I could remove if I wet sanded it, but I've never done that and I'm afraid of cutting through the clear, plus like I said, its not a show truck.



While the truck was at the paint shop I had an extra chevy grill and I took the side marker lights out of (only 2 cause the drivers side was broken) and smoked them. So when I got the truck back tonight I popped out the drivers side from the GMC grill and smoked them. Then tried to put them into the grill and they don't fit. The chevy marker lights are bigger than the GMC. I just assumed they were the same. So I guess I'll be getting some new lights.



While at the paint shop I guess they moved the truck around a few times with no problems, then they moved it outside today and then they couldn't get it started. So I got there and tried starting it, I heard a loud pop when I pushed in the clutch. The clutch master cylinder had worked itself loose and popped out of the firewall, so it wasn't engaging the switch. I popped it in place no problem (funny that I've driven the truck 10k miles with no problem). So then I try to start it, the batteries are weak and its turning over slow and its about 15 degrees out so we tried that for awhile to no avail. Knowing how simple 12v are, I checked the fuel cut off solenoid and sure enough it wasn't pulling itself up when you try to start it. I left the truck on, and pushed it up into position and it fired right up.

So I went to dinner with the family and made a few more pit stops and had to push the solenoid up each time, no big deal. Then I started driving home (about 10 degrees by this time). For the whole hour long drive home the truck temp didn't move from the lowest mark of 160, the heat wasn't enough to overcome the air leaking in through the firewall, so it was a cold ride home. I'm thinking I'm going to make a radiator block off to help keep the temps up.

Once I got home I first figured out the starting issue. Turns out the relay for the solenoid went bad. Luckily I had another relay that worked (at least temporarily, not sure what amperage it needs to be rated for, this one was rated for 40A)

Then I put the new chevy grill on (notice the flat black bowtie too ), the toolbox back in, and then the step bars back on.

I'm hoping I can get the fender flares on tomorrow.

[jbclassix]

Man that rig looks good!!!

[Palf70Step]

Very Nice!