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Old 04-12-2004, 01:01 AM   #451
shimp
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Yeah. Mine is already pretty low from what I have done to it (repositioning the body on the frame) but I want it all the way down. I only need about 1" more to lay completely flat on the rocker in the front. I'm gonna do it without a body drop, and without the full X-member mods you guys are doing. (at least I am going to try my damndest, I just don't think it's that damned hard to do) Guess I'll find out.... nothing like a challenge right?

Check out the pics:





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Old 04-21-2004, 12:45 AM   #452
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Has this post finally been beat to death?
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Old 04-21-2004, 01:22 AM   #453
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Hell no I got some more pics comin hopfully this weekend
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Old 04-23-2004, 08:48 PM   #454
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anyone thought of sectioning the crossmember 2"?
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Old 04-23-2004, 08:52 PM   #455
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as you can see i have cut the top off of the crossmember, and what i was thinking of doing was to cut exactly 2" out of the center and then just weld it back together. so i would use the same motor mounts and i would be just bringing the bottom of the member up. let me know if anyone thinks this may work!
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Old 04-23-2004, 08:59 PM   #456
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That's basically how CapKaos did his (& I did mine). We just didn't slice the entire c-member, just between the rails.

I only cut 1.5" though.
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Old 04-24-2004, 03:13 AM   #457
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i came to a better solution (maybe) as i read the start of this thread. tell me if this would sound good. i am just going to section the part of the member that accepts the stock lower control arms by cutting the part shown in the pics out and then taking 2" off the top then bolting the two pieces the the control arm then welding them to the top of the member. please give me some feed back on this!?!?
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Old 04-24-2004, 03:13 AM   #458
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Old 04-24-2004, 03:15 AM   #459
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then i will just fill in the rest of the bottom of the member between the two mounts with steel to smooth it out and make it look really clean
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Old 04-24-2004, 03:20 AM   #460
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I'm not 100% sure but if you move the lower contol arms up without moving up the upper control arms your ball joints could bind up?

Like I said I'm not sure, someone correct me if I am wrong please.
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Old 04-24-2004, 03:21 AM   #461
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by the way here is my rear c-notch
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Old 04-24-2004, 03:36 AM   #462
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I am going to cut the end of the stock control arm off and then re-angle it so that the ball joint will not bind up
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Old 04-25-2004, 12:46 AM   #463
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Update pics of my burban, got my wheels in and stuffed them in there.
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Old 04-25-2004, 12:50 AM   #464
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another shot, It will go lower but its hung up on something!
Attached Images
  

Last edited by fastbagged68; 05-05-2004 at 01:43 AM.
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Old 04-25-2004, 01:24 AM   #465
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Quote:
Originally posted by shimp
I'm not 100% sure but if you move the lower contol arms up without moving up the upper control arms your ball joints could bind up?
If you move the lower without moving the upper you are changing the geometry of the suspension and it will change the way the pieces act together. Binding is a definite possibility. You really don't want to fool with the geometry unless you have researched its affects through some suspension geometry analysis.
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Old 04-25-2004, 01:24 AM   #466
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fastbagged68 That ROCKS!!!
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Old 04-25-2004, 11:44 AM   #467
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sic

Fastbagged that thing is hella sic. Gotta love only seeing half of those big billets does that mean they were only half price(LOL). Hope once I get my Burb closer to completion I can get some Boyd Slayers 20x8 and 20x12's for the back. Keep up the good work and keep us updated on progress.
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Old 04-25-2004, 11:50 AM   #468
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my burb

Finally got my universal from Flaming River and got steering hooked back up. Engine is finished and ready to go back in. Should have it back on the road next weekend then I can build new floor in the rear. Got about 21 days until Showfest so I guess I'm right on schedule.
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Old 05-04-2004, 09:18 PM   #469
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ok where are the updates??
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Old 05-20-2004, 06:20 PM   #470
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has this thread died??
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92 C1500 stepside 496 Stroker Competiton Engineering Ladder bars/QA1 coilovers. Dana 60 rear with 4.10 gear and posi. Bonspeed Palisade 20x12 in rear w/335/30/20 and 20x8.5 front w/245/40/20. 5/8 drop with Belltech springs/DJM spindles/drop shocks. WWS Progress thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=140448
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Old 05-23-2004, 01:06 AM   #471
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I hope it hasnt died as well. Were are the updates?
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Old 07-15-2004, 02:17 PM   #472
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Bring back the thread
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Old 07-19-2004, 04:26 PM   #473
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I wish I had some progress to show here!! I just sold my house a month back and my new garage is not complete yet. I havent done a thing damn it!! I was wondering were the thread went anyhow. I have managed to get my 496 project going good. The whole short block is assembled and ready to bolt heads on.
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92 C1500 stepside 496 Stroker Competiton Engineering Ladder bars/QA1 coilovers. Dana 60 rear with 4.10 gear and posi. Bonspeed Palisade 20x12 in rear w/335/30/20 and 20x8.5 front w/245/40/20. 5/8 drop with Belltech springs/DJM spindles/drop shocks. WWS Progress thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=140448
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Old 07-19-2004, 11:13 PM   #474
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I read on the 47-55 section of the board that a 67-72 crossmember will fit in a 48 Chevy 3100 frame by cutting 1 5/8" out of the middle. I guess it could also be section for an ultimately low classic crewzer. Cool!
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Old 07-29-2004, 09:01 AM   #475
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I Havent bagged the front of mine , Ive done a small notch on the rear 2.5 inch, ( goin bigger real quick) , Ill be baggin the front this winter But A while ago I built a drop member , I was just wondering if Ill have steering shaft cleanace issues right now If I thorw in the drop member in with out the bags , I have 2.5 inch spindles and 3 inch springs up front right now and its in a 64 short step , with and 82 crossmember and suspension in it. whadda ya think?
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