Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

[88Stanger]

Ok, doing way better now after my little stint with Covid (Little rat bastard).... Anyways, sorry had to do a little venting...


Ok, so I had time to look and i found that someone makes a "Smooth" Cowl panel for the truck.. 1966. I need and want that because a.) i will have Vintage Air in the truck and then i want to use that open space where the kick panel vents are for open air space for a set of 6" mids. and i do not want water in there. so with that said, anyone install one? If so where did you get it?

[53Sparky]

Glad you're doing better. Had to take my daughter in for a test after her coworker came to work for 3 more days after testing positive so she wouldn't miss a pay check. Grr.

Have you considered the panels that go in the rear corners of the cab for speakers? Brothers makes an insert panel you can put there. I used to have a F*&d with speakers in the kick panels. I could never keep my big ass feet from beating on the speaker grills when I got in or out, shifted, Hi Beam Low Beam etc. Especially with work boots on.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by 53Sparky

Glad you're doing better. Had to take my daughter in for a test after her coworker came to work for 3 more days after testing positive so she wouldn't miss a pay check. Grr.

Have you considered the panels that go in the rear corners of the cab for speakers? Brothers makes an insert panel you can put there. I used to have a F*&d with speakers in the kick panels. I could never keep my big ass feet from beating on the speaker grills when I got in or out, shifted, Hi Beam Low Beam etc. Especially with work boots on.

I have to be honest. I am install a sub box back in that area with 10" JL Audio's and then for the front i am running a set of JS Audio's mids and tweets and will be putting them in a custom kick panel. I have huge feet as i am not a small guy, but i am going to try to do this and leave alone the are flat to the floor, in other words try to pick up the Mid speaker a good bit so that the high beam is still accessible and such. I can so see your point with kicking the speakers all the time. lol large feet suck for that.
For what i want and sound i am going after, I want to try this and see how it goes. If it fails I will go that route.

[WunTon]

Glad to hear your doing ok! I'll be watching to see what you come up with. My plan is to use a sundown 8" behind the seat with a set of Hertz Mille 2 ways or maybe 3 ways somewhere powered by a pair of JL amps mostly because I have all those items sitting in boxes in the garage that I've been intending to put in my daily for the last two years and haven't gotten around to it yet lol.

[roll_the_dice]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

Ok, doing way better now after my little stint with Covid (Little rat bastard).... Anyways, sorry had to do a little venting...


Ok, so I had time to look and i found that someone makes a "Smooth" Cowl panel for the truck.. 1966. I need and want that because a.) i will have Vintage Air in the truck and then i want to use that open space where the kick panel vents are for open air space for a set of 6" mids. and i do not want water in there. so with that said, anyone install one? If so where did you get it?

Glad you are feeling better...

I inquired a few months ago about the smooth cowl and didn't get much feedback. One person replied and said it fit well. I am interested in getting one also...I either will eventually get one or put some kind of screen under the holes in the cowl...If you get one please post how you like it.

[SCOTI]

I'm w/them.... Glad your recovery is going well.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by WunTon

Glad to hear your doing ok! I'll be watching to see what you come up with. My plan is to use a sundown 8" behind the seat with a set of Hertz Mille 2 ways or maybe 3 ways somewhere powered by a pair of JL amps mostly because I have all those items sitting in boxes in the garage that I've been intending to put in my daily for the last two years and haven't gotten around to it yet lol.

Thanks, i am not going to it was easy... it sucked but feeling way better just feels way better. lol

Dang, nice to have the just lying around. LOL If i was you i would use what you have. I have only a 400Watt Mono amp now, so that will power the JL W1 10" Subs. Rest of the stuff will all be JL Audio.
Pics will certainly be coming.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by roll_the_dice

Glad you are feeling better...

I inquired a few months ago about the smooth cowl and didn't get much feedback. One person replied and said it fit well. I am interested in getting one also...I either will eventually get one or put some kind of screen under the holes in the cowl...If you get one please post how you like it.

Oh ya, i will. I plan to order one in the next few days. When i get it i will pic and tell ya about it. They are not cheap we can start there, but i like the "unique" idea and saves from water getting near speakers or in more places to rust.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I'm w/them.... Glad your recovery is going well.

Thank you sir. On the mend now. Pray none of you get it, that you are all safe from it. nasty little terd it is.

[88Stanger]

Ok, so here is a layout for the speaker box for the back, 3/4" MDF

Gotta love having access to AutoCad at work....

[SkinnyG]

If my math is correct, that looks like about 0.75ft2 per sub. That's pretty small for a ported box - is that what these subs require?

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

If my math is correct, that looks like about 0.75ft2 per sub. That's pretty small for a ported box - is that what these subs require?

Thanks for checking my math. So i went in and rechecked it and I get .89 sq ft per sub still. Used Rockford Fosgates calc and an independent one, both came up with .89. I tried inside dimensions and outside to verify and they both checked out. Each enclosure is 25" wide, 8" deep bottom, 4" deep top and stands 16" tall. These are outside dimensions - so inside dimensions would be 23.5" wide, 6.5" deep bottom, 2.5" deep top, 14.5" tall.

So the JL-Audio 10" W1v3 subs each require on a ported box .90 cubic feet or air, so i am just under that and knowing my wood cutting, i will be just over .90 cubic feet.... lol. Just for me i sent my design of the box into JL Audio and asked them what they thought. My only real issue is the port volume and size. I am trying to match what they have for volume and i think i am close. I am waiting on their response.

[SkinnyG]

Did you subtract the volume of the port, and the volume of the sub from the enclosure volume?

[SkinnyG]

I've used WinISD for designing boxes. Fun to play with, and it's free. http://www.linearteam.org/

[88Stanger]

Funny i say all this and SkinnyG you got me thinking i better look a bit closer into this. so i am now. lol Thanks for checking in! Always good to verify what you are thinking...

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

Did you subtract the volume of the port, and the volume of the sub from the enclosure volume?

This is exactly what i am looking at now and no i did not. LOL
I really appreciate the help here!!

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

I've used WinISD for designing boxes. Fun to play with, and it's free. http://www.linearteam.org/

DAMN! just loaded this, this is awesome! I am not messing around with it. Thank you brother, i really appreciate this!!

[88Stanger]

SkinnyG I stand corrected, you are correct. The actual volume of each box is .75 cubic Ft of air space. This is a small amount and may just be to little for a ported box, damnit, but ok for sealed box. Looks like sealed box is what i will be doing....

[SkinnyG]

I'd run either two 10's in a sealed box as big as you can fit, or a single 10 in a ported box. They'd both likely play about as loud each.

Sealed they'd play pretty tight and handle good power. I'd wire them in parallel to 2 ohms and feed them with a Class D mono sub amp.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

SkinnyG I stand corrected, you are correct. The actual volume of each box is .75 cubic Ft of air space. This is a small amount and may just be to little for a ported box, damnit, but ok for sealed box. Looks like sealed box is what i will be doing....

Actually, so i redid the calc and I go back to my orginal statement that .89 cubic ft is the calc. I did get your number, and what i found is that if you are taking the box wedge design and split it into one box and one box cut in half to be a two triangles, you will use the box design outside numbers minus the board thickness of .75 x 2 BUT on the first box the bottom dimension is only 1 board thickness of .75. This will then get you the .89 rather than the .75.
not sure this makes sense, but i did the calc by hand then with two different software's and it comes up to .89.
Now with that said, i must take away the Speaker Volume.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

I'd run either two 10's in a sealed box as big as you can fit, or a single 10 in a ported box. They'd both likely play about as loud each.

Sealed they'd play pretty tight and handle good power. I'd wire them in parallel to 2 ohms and feed them with a Class D mono sub amp.

So with your thoughts here is the plan - I have a Lightning Audio LA-400M = 400 Watt Mono amp - to drive the the two 10-W1.v3 Subs. Now after looking at the numbers now i am thinking that maybe I Switch over to 12" W1.v3 in this box ported. I really prefer a ported box honestly.

[SkinnyG]

This is what I did:

Trapezoid inside dimensions

((a+b)/2)x(h)x(w)

((6.5 + 2.5)/2)x(14.5)x(48.5) /12/12/12

1.83 ft3

/2

0.9ft3

3x2.75x20 /12/12/12 (rough estimate of port area)

0.1ft3

sub: 0.05ft3 (typical)

0.9-0.1-0.05 = 0.75ft3 - but actually slightly smaller because I didn't take into account the separator board in the middle.

I ran both volumes through WinISD and there isn't a massive difference between the two. It will work. At .75 the box is tuned a few Hz higher.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

This is what I did:

Trapezoid inside dimensions

((a+b)/2)x(h)x(w)

((6.5 + 2.5)/2)x(14.5)x(48.5) /12/12/12

1.83 ft3

/2

0.9ft3

3x2.75x20 /12/12/12 (rough estimate of port area)

0.1ft3

sub: 0.05ft3 (typical)

0.9-0.1-0.05 = 0.75ft3 - but actually slightly smaller because I didn't take into account the separator board in the middle.

I ran both volumes through WinISD and there isn't a massive difference between the two. It will work. At .75 the box is tuned a few Hz higher.

Ok I get it, You get the same .89 or .9 BUT i did not remove the port area... lol i get it. i am so dumb sometimes. Sorry for being such a dummy. lol
I was a bit lost in the program on where to enter all parameters for the box though.

[88Stanger]

you know eventually i will stop this madness, lol. Ok, so after some thought i forgot that i have abandoned the idea of the using the shoulder harness bar, so that allows me to go up to 18" in height. After doing the calcs as you SkinnyG showed, i would end with .90 cubic ft of airspace for the two vented 10" subs, this is increasing the height to 18" and excluding the vent space. The calcs according to JL Audio appears that they want Volume Net Int. to be .90 Cubic Feet. Looking at their suggested ported box with vent i am very close. so not i am looking at maybe going 1" longer on base just to get a bit more volume.
LOL i am killling myself here, but this is what happens when you are anal about things and you have been locked up in the house for almost 2 weeks.... lol Sorry about all my confusion SkinnyG! I will owe you one... two ... three... lol

[SkinnyG]

No worries. We all learned our knowledge from somewhere. Spread the love to the next guy.