Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

AND ALL BACK TOGETHER IN 72 HOURS!!!

but didn't get to start it cause I finished after 11:00 PM and it would have been way too loud!!!

[RDrancher]

Nice job!

Craftsman isn't what it used to be...or maybe it is. I had a Craftsman electric impact that did it's job for a bunch of years. The ring that holds sockets on was always kind of a pita though and would stick one on or spit one off at random. When I was checking out junk at HF one day, I took a look at their impact and doggone it...except for the color it's exactly the same unit. So when the Craftsman crapped out, guess which one I bought?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by RDrancher

Nice job!

Craftsman isn't what it used to be...

You can say that again, the plastic handle on the new one feels like it will shatter at any time. I swore I would not buy Craftsman any more but I really had no place to turn but Sears, maybe Lowes I guess, but aint they all Chinese.

[rusty76]

I've got an old craftsman torque wrench that has a ponter on it instead of the click style now. I got it when I was in high school. I'm guessing it's still accurate after all these years.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rusty76

I've got an old craftsman torque wrench that has a ponter on it instead of the click style now. I got it when I was in high school. I'm guessing it's still accurate after all these years.

how in the world do you use that when you are hanging upside down under the car by your feet in the dark with the sun in your eyes while its raining, with the clicker you hear the click, ha ha

[rusty76]

Originally Posted by Gregski

how in the world do you use that when you are hanging upside down under the car by your feet in the dark with the sun in your eyes while its raining, with the clicker you hear the click, ha ha

Well honestly it ain't easy really. You just have to be ready to jump out the way.

[Oldriginal86]

So, get that thing on the dyno so we can see the fruits of your labor!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Oldriginal86

So, get that thing on the dyno so we can see the fruits of your labor!

that's the plan you have no idea how bad I want it

[Gregski]

So Summit finally sent me a replacement water temp gauge for the one that broke after only a couple weeks, but you won't believe this

so I send in my old GREEN water temp gauge with a filled out form with the part number and the box checked for please exchange it for the same part number, explanation stopped working after a couple weeks

a week later, I get a refund for about $9 bucks, I call them up and say whats this for, it's for the Sending Unit you returned to us - um no I didn't my sending unit is still in the truck, oh so sorry we will send you your gauge

a few days later get an email, we just shipped you your Oil Pressure Gauge I kid you not, so I email them, guys this is in regards order/return number blah blah blah, I don't want an oil gauge

a few days later get an email, "What do you want" so I reply please replace my water temp gauge with a water temp gauge part number blah blah blah

and today this is what i got, a friggen RED Water Temp Gauge

I have completely lost faith in humanity!

[Gregski]

I T ' S A L I V E

so it fired right up on the first try I kid you not, but it would not keep running unless my foot was on the gas pedal

so I bumped up the timing advance and that made it happier (turns out it was at only 6 degrees when I eye balled it) I bumped it to 10.5 since that's as far as my dizzy would rotate before the vacuum pod hits the intake manifold - if anyone knows how to remedy that situation please let me know

I also increased the idle speed screw cause it was trying to idle below 500 RPM, so I bumped it to a happy 750 RPM

then I alternated reving it up for maybe 30 seconds at 1500 then back down, then to 2000 then back down, then to 2500 then back down, rinse, lather, repeat

man does it sound smooth at 1750 I swear you would think it's a Cadillac motor under the hood, ha ha

here's a sound bite for you all, and thank you so much for reading, follwing, and pulling for me and Rusty, we sure appreciate it

1974 GMC / Chevy C10 Idling After New Rings & Resonators Only Exhaust

[harley87ta]

Glad to hear it went well with the ring job. It sounds really good..

The 454 in my truck could use some help too. I smoke out my neighborhood when the outside temperature is around 60 degrees or lower. Once my engine warms up it's good. Either my rings or cylinders are worn out.

I'm liking your festive gauge package is it Christmas in October?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by harley87ta

I'm liking your festive gauge package is it Christmas in October?

ha ha, not for long I got tired of the red gauge display making me think I am in the red sort of speak so I yanked it and sent it back to Summit for an exchange, I did buy a green one originally after all so I expect an exchange for a green one - is that too much to ask? ha ha

[Hewfil1]

Originally Posted by Gregski

1974 GMC / Chevy C10 Idling After New Rings & Resonators Only Exhaust

I'll have to post a clip of mine. See how they sound together.

[SkinnyG]

Sounds like the distributor is out a tooth. Just pull it, turn it a tooth, turn the oil drive about the same amount with a LARGE flat-blade screwdriver, and plunk it back down.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

Sounds like the distributor is out a tooth. Just pull it, turn it a tooth, turn the oil drive about the same amount with a LARGE flat-blade screwdriver, and plunk it back down.

I think you are right about being a tooth off, I just drove the truck in to work today and it had no power in 3rd gear, I thought it was running too lean, but even when I turned the idle mixture screws out more the problem did not go away. This would obviously explain why my distributor vacuum pod hits the intake manifold earlier than normal.

What a shmuck I am, I will limp it home and drop it in proper, perhaps even do it sober this time, ha ha

[Marshy]

What's your cam specs on this motor? I have been reading the last dozen or so pages but haven't found the time to start at the beginning, its a little lengthy.

10 degrees is usually a good amount for a typical 350. That's your max mechanical advance and at what RPM?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Marshy

What's your cam specs on this motor? I have been reading the last dozen or so pages but haven't found the time to start at the beginning, its a little lengthy.

10 degrees is usually a good amount for a typical 350. That's your max mechanical advance and at what RPM?

GM P/N 24502476
212° / 222° Duration
.290" / .307" lobe lift
.435" / .460" valve lift
112° lobe seperation
108° ATDC intake
116° BTDC exhaust

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

Sounds like the distributor is out a tooth. Just pull it, turn it a tooth, turn the oil drive about the same amount with a LARGE flat-blade screwdriver, and plunk it back down.

OK, finally got around to doing exactly that. This allowed me to set the Initial Advance Timing to 12° instead of the 10° that I had, and I must say the truck runs much much better now, it now has some gitty up again

Note To Self: some day do a study of timing advance and the correlation to truck gitty up

[SkinnyG]

My cam is 231°@050, with 108°LSA. I run 20° base, with 16° mechanical, and 12° vacuum at the manifold.

[rich weyand]

My cam is 192/200°@050, with 108°LSA. I run 16° base, with 20° mechanical, and 15° vacuum at the manifold.

[Gregski]

so a quick update, well it turns out I am not a shmuck and the distributor was in there correctly, see the before and after pics of when I re stabbed it today, they look identical and that's the best way it goes to be at #1 TDC, I even took the driver side valve cover off and spun the engine around and watched the #1 intake valve go down and back up, etc.

[SkinnyG]

Originally Posted by Gregski

so a quick update, well it turns out I am not a shmuck and the distributor was in there correctly

The rotor is and was in the right place, but you ran out of adjustment in the distributor. Moving it over a tooth puts the body in a more adjustment-friendly location, and you should be able to get some more base timing (I'd like to see at least 15° base with your cam, maybe more).

All your fueling is going to be dependent on your timing - if you're not running the same base timing as you were before, your fueling will be off. Get your base timing back to where it was, and you ~shouldn't~ have to muck about too much (other than you might have a lot more vacuum and compression now).

[Gregski]

without my Air Fuel Ratio since the O2 sensors went on a frits and both read 22.4/22.4 I felt like a fish out of the water, but I tried to tune what I could, so I checked the float levels and they were a bit too high, so I adjusted them down a bit so that fuel only dripped out when I hip bumped the fender of the truck, I also screwed the idle mixture screws all the way in and watched the truck die, then I backed them both out 1/2 a turn plus it wanted another 1/4 turn out, that seemed to make things a tiny bit better I think

then I spent a couple hours fandangling with those BOSCH LSU 4.9 oxygen sensors and, calibrated them and re calibrated them, then cleaned them with some brake cleaner and a gold color bristle wire brush and finally one of them woke up and decided to work

Now I had some feedback, so I took it for a spin and Idle mixture was good in the upper 13s, but WOT was lean high 14s sometimes 15s, so I think it's time to go to bigger jets

currently I am running 62 primary jets and 65 secondary jets, I believe the carb comes stock with a 64/69 jet combo so I may inch my way up to that, maybe try 63/67 first

this would make sense as we now have two more hungry cylinders to feed!

[69heavychevy]

I noticed that you didnt use a vortec specific intake gasket. Any reason for that?? Does the paper gasket seal just as good?? I only ask because I'll be replacing mine soon and the redesigned vortec intake gaskets are too expensive!!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 69heavychevy

I noticed that you didnt use a vortec specific intake gasket. Any reason for that?? Does the paper gasket seal just as good?? I only ask because I'll be replacing mine soon and the redesigned vortec intake gaskets are too expensive!!

I believe I am, it's the Fel-Pro 1255 part number, and this is what Summit says:

"Designed for GM Vortec, ZZ4, Edelbrock E-Tech cylinder heads. End rail seals are not included. Installation to be done with a bead of silicone at the manifold ends. Dual bolt pattern. No exhaust crossover openings. Not for use on 1982-85 fuel injection. Gaskets fit many O.E. and aftermarket heads."