|
10-07-2016, 10:16 PM | #1 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Garland,TX
Posts: 431
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
__________________
80 C10 SWB Step Side - 350 w/ vortec heads, TH350, 12-bolt 3.73 |
|
10-08-2016, 03:21 PM | #2 |
Post Whore
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,840
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
That is a good gasket but I think it's only available in a kit, which is pretty expensive if you just want that gasket. Stock Suburbans run them, see below
Last edited by Gregski; 10-08-2016 at 03:31 PM. |
10-07-2016, 03:02 AM | #3 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Bloomington Indiana
Posts: 1,041
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
Bigger jets is right, though. Adds more fuel, which is in the denominator, so it brings the number DOWN. For cruise, low 14s is right. What's your cruise reading?
__________________
Rich Weyand 1978 K10 RCSB DD. |
|
10-07-2016, 10:03 AM | #4 | |
Post Whore
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,840
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Yes, dope, my bad.
Quote:
My cruise currently is 16/17 I like it in the 15s especially since I didn't like seeing those white exhaust valves, but you may be right I may need to bring it down to the 14s just need to relearn what this new(ish) (healthier) engine likes now, and the seasons change aint helping in comparing apples to apples as the cold air is much denser, and I swear Sacramento likes to go from the high 90s F to the 50s F over night this time of the year |
|
10-07-2016, 10:39 AM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Bloomington Indiana
Posts: 1,041
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
14.7 is the stoichiometric value, in which all the air and all the gas take part in the combustion event. None left over of either. So a cruise in the 15s is OK. 16/17 is getting pretty thin for my taste, but some people like it for the mileage. I aimed at 14-14.5 in cruise, which runs a little cooler, I think, than going quite so lean.
__________________
Rich Weyand 1978 K10 RCSB DD. |
10-07-2016, 08:56 PM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Bloomington Indiana
Posts: 1,041
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
One other complication to note. The number of oxygen molecules in a given volume of air varies with temperature. So when it gets cold out, the mixture numbers will run leaner, and when hot, they will run richer.
I have the thermac air cleaner on my truck, so the inlet temperature is always about the same, winter or summer. BUT, when I get on it, the vacuum drop will open the air door and pull in ambient air. So I run my secondaries with an A/FR of about 12.5 in 70 degree F air. In the winter, that number will be much higher when the air door opens, but I don't want to have to swap needles twice a year. Fuel injection compensates for all of this stuff on the fly. This is just a carb consideration, particularly since you aren't running the thermac air cleaner. Going into the winter, lower numbers now would be better, because they will climb as the temperature falls.
__________________
Rich Weyand 1978 K10 RCSB DD. |
10-07-2016, 09:11 PM | #7 |
Post Whore
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,840
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Status Report: so after rejetting the carb to the 63/67 primary/secondary jets the truck runs better, I drove it in to work today again then ran over to SEARS, but its still lean at WOT, so tonight after it cools off (the engine not the weather, ha ha) we will rejet it to 64/69 the default jets the carb would have come with new
|
10-08-2016, 03:28 PM | #8 |
Post Whore
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,840
|
Re: Restoring Rusty - Engine Ratlle
Well not good fellars! After putting on just over 100 miles on the newly reassembled engine I started hearing a rattling sound coming from the engine. Naturally I can't tell where exactly it is coming from, (I even tried the long pipe to the ear trick) Sounds like there is a loose nut bouncing around one of the valve covers. So I removed both valve covers and did not see anything peculiar there. So I thought maybe a rocker is loose, nope. Maybe a collapsed lifter, nope. Well I readjusted the valves just for good measure, and went for a test drive, and the rattle is still there. Cant really hear it when the engine is idling but it increases with RPMs gets faster and louder. Hmmm sound familiar? I swear it better not be these pesky Hooker headers again! I'm off to the gym now to blow off some steam, gonna bench press 300 lbs (plus or minus 200, ha ha) when I get back I plan on removing them headers and trying my old OEM stock exhaust manifolds, joy! |
10-08-2016, 03:48 PM | #9 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Ohio
Posts: 274
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Wow that sucks
Posted via Mobile Device |
10-08-2016, 09:35 PM | #10 |
Post Whore
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,840
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
|
10-08-2016, 09:39 PM | #11 |
Post Whore
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,840
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Well I strapped on my ol' exhaust manifolds back on with the ol' LMC Truck dual exhaust with the generic turbo mufflers and the rattle is still there, so the good news is it wasn't my Hooker headers leaking again, the bad news is we don't know what it is, and it could be ugly, something in the bottom end
Last edited by Gregski; 10-08-2016 at 09:45 PM. |
10-08-2016, 10:29 PM | #12 |
Post Whore
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,840
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
unplugged one spark plug at a time and started and ran the engine to see if the rattle noise goes away and it does not, darn it, tomorrow the oil pan comes off and we take a deeper dive
|
10-08-2016, 11:29 PM | #13 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Sun City, CA
Posts: 34
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Good Luck.. Hopefully it's something simple
|
10-08-2016, 11:19 PM | #14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mexico, NY
Posts: 559
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
In your last trip into your engine did you check the condition of the main bearings when you replaced the rod bearings? Did you check the rod bearing clearance when you were there? In most cases people have the crank polished when they do bearings.
I was surprised to see you deglazed the cylinder bores with the crank still in and replace the rod bearings without polishing the crank or check the makings (maybe you did but didn't tell us?). At this point you would have been farther ahead to send the block to the shop to get cleaned up inside and out, had crank turned or just polished and had them put new cam bearings in. Then you'd have a whole new motor. Sorry for the set back, I know how that can be. Knowing which corner to cut can be tricky.
__________________
'84 K10, SM465, NP208, 3.42 Gears, 33x12.5-15 GM 4 bolt 880 roller block, 062 Vortec Heads Comp Cams XR258HR-10, MSD Street Fighter HEI Edelbrock: Performer Intake 2116, 1405 Carb Long tube headers, 2.5" duals to Flow Master Super 40's Vortec Engine Build Last edited by Marshy; 10-08-2016 at 11:25 PM. |
10-09-2016, 10:17 AM | #15 | |
Post Whore
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,840
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
|
|
10-09-2016, 01:08 AM | #16 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Beautiful BC, Canada, eh?!
Posts: 2,234
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Make sure the rod caps were put on the correct way.
The two "tangs" that notch the bearings in go together.
__________________
1961 Apache: "Grabber Orange" Shortboxed, pancake, step-notch, air-ride, boosted-LS 1977 Silverado: Shortboxed & dropped, potato-potato V8 Pontiac Firefly (Chevy Sprint): The ultimate engine swap: 5.7L in a 1.0L bag Lotus Super 7 Replica: Scratch-built street-legal rollerskate |
10-09-2016, 11:07 AM | #17 |
Post Whore
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,840
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Yes sir, I payed attention when I took them off and I noticed that there was a sharp pointy ridge or edge on the driver side bearing caps all pointing to the front of the truck and the opposite was true on the passenger side so I made sure I put them back in, in the same fashion, I even double checked after torquing down the cap bolts to spec
|
10-09-2016, 11:09 AM | #18 |
Post Whore
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,840
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
I'll tell you this much I will be pissed and relieved at the same time if I just find my 9/16ths six point socket rattling in the oil pan (I'm looking at you Craftsman you know you love to get lost all the time) ha ha
|
10-09-2016, 11:25 AM | #19 |
Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Wentworth, NH
Posts: 4,964
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Did you change the oil pump while you had the pan off?
__________________
1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD 1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD 1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD 1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD 1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD 1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD 2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500 2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263 2009 Impala SS LS4 V8 RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful. |
10-09-2016, 11:27 AM | #20 |
Post Whore
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,840
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
|
10-09-2016, 11:43 AM | #21 |
Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Wentworth, NH
Posts: 4,964
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Well it's probably not needed then...
__________________
1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD 1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD 1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD 1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD 1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD 1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD 2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500 2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263 2009 Impala SS LS4 V8 RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful. |
10-09-2016, 11:36 AM | #22 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Beautiful BC, Canada, eh?!
Posts: 2,234
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
These notches, in green. You can see the shadow of the notch on the rod.
Though it sounds like you put the caps on correctly anyway.
__________________
1961 Apache: "Grabber Orange" Shortboxed, pancake, step-notch, air-ride, boosted-LS 1977 Silverado: Shortboxed & dropped, potato-potato V8 Pontiac Firefly (Chevy Sprint): The ultimate engine swap: 5.7L in a 1.0L bag Lotus Super 7 Replica: Scratch-built street-legal rollerskate |
10-09-2016, 11:44 AM | #23 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mexico, NY
Posts: 559
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
You bought standard size bearings IIRC. Could it be possible the rod journals are already 0.010 under and you bought the wrong bearings? If you have the old bearings check the backside and see if they are 10 under bearings.
__________________
'84 K10, SM465, NP208, 3.42 Gears, 33x12.5-15 GM 4 bolt 880 roller block, 062 Vortec Heads Comp Cams XR258HR-10, MSD Street Fighter HEI Edelbrock: Performer Intake 2116, 1405 Carb Long tube headers, 2.5" duals to Flow Master Super 40's Vortec Engine Build |
10-09-2016, 12:11 PM | #24 |
I know the pieces fit
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: MONTGOMERY, AL
Posts: 5,523
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
I forgot about that, but I wondered about that too when you bought the bearings and mentioned they were standard size. Did you mic the crank to see if it'd been turned?
|
10-09-2016, 02:14 PM | #25 |
Post Whore
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,840
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
|
Bookmarks |
|
|