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#4876 |
Moderator
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Location: Wentworth, NH
Posts: 4,951
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Re: Restoring Rusty
I'll be captain obvious here... They need to be throughly clean as well as the anti-rotation indents in the rods and caps clear of crud.
You also need to be sure the oil holes from the main journals to the rod journals are clear of crud. If you get any siginifcant crud from the rod journal feed holes you may need to pull the block so you can remove the crank. Install them with assembly lube not dry. If the cam or main bearings are loose the oil pressure will drop.
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1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD 1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD 1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD 1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD 1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD 1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD 2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500 2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263 2009 Impala SS LS4 V8 RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful. |
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#4877 | |
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
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#4878 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mexico, NY
Posts: 559
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Why did you replace them then, just because you were there when honing?. The only thing you did in the lower end was replace those bearings. If you need 10 under bearing and put standard bearings in then that could explain your sound. Also having one or more not torqued properly would too... just saying, easy check. GL, hope your figure it out.
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'84 K10, SM465, NP208, 3.42 Gears, 33x12.5-15 GM 4 bolt 880 roller block, 062 Vortec Heads Comp Cams XR258HR-10, MSD Street Fighter HEI Edelbrock: Performer Intake 2116, 1405 Carb Long tube headers, 2.5" duals to Flow Master Super 40's Vortec Engine Build |
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#4879 |
Post Whore
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Re: Restoring Rusty
thank you all for your feedback, coming up are some visuals
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#4880 |
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Re: Restoring Rusty
yes the old ones were out so I thought might as well put new ones in, it's like when you take the old water pump off to do the timing set, you put a new water pump back on, even if the old one was still good, just cause it's such a P.I.A.
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#4881 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
#1 this one is bad (don't mind the tiny specs of dirt on it now I got that on the bearing whilst pulling it out) but something else could have been in there before, who knows
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#4882 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
#2 also bad/loose - I'm beginning to think there was some crud on the #1/#2 crank journal
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#4883 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
#3 was good
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#4884 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
# 4 was good too
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#4885 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mexico, NY
Posts: 559
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Re: Restoring Rusty
You definitely has some garbage going around in there. It likely the mains look the same now. How does the rod journal look on the crank?
__________________
'84 K10, SM465, NP208, 3.42 Gears, 33x12.5-15 GM 4 bolt 880 roller block, 062 Vortec Heads Comp Cams XR258HR-10, MSD Street Fighter HEI Edelbrock: Performer Intake 2116, 1405 Carb Long tube headers, 2.5" duals to Flow Master Super 40's Vortec Engine Build |
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#4886 | |
Moderator
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Location: Wentworth, NH
Posts: 4,951
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
What does the #1-2 rod journal look like? For that matter 3-4, 5-6, & 7-8 too... I've done rod and even main bearings in-frame but if I had to get into the cylinders with a hone and-or ridge reamer the block got pulled so I could wash out all of the leftover crud with Kerosene and DAWN. The tiny pieces of stone and cast iron gets airborne and goes everywhere. You can't keep it out of the important parts. The metal and carborundum dust is same reason nobody uses their good lathe for toolpost grinding you use the cheap one that had a rough life instead.
__________________
1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD 1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD 1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD 1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD 1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD 1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD 2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500 2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263 2009 Impala SS LS4 V8 RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful. Last edited by hatzie; 10-09-2016 at 05:53 PM. |
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#4887 |
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Well let me show you how the other half lives
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#4888 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Sun City, CA
Posts: 34
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Re: Restoring Rusty
When you were honing the cylinders you seemed to be pretty careful with the deflector thingy you had.
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#4889 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
# 5 was ok
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#4890 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
# 6 was ok
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#4891 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
# 7 was horrible the worst one of them all, and I suspect the source of the rattle
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#4892 |
Post Whore
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Re: Restoring Rusty
# 8 was ok
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#4893 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
but that's not the end of it, I found water in the oil pan and when I removed the oil pan water dripped on to the floor from the inside of the block somewhere, now I say water cause after the heads came off to replace the rings I filled the radiator with water only, common practice when you first reassemble the motor, in case you find a leak or need to tear it apart again, anywho it appears it is running down the back wall of the engine block, the wall that butts up against the fly wheel, but keep in mind the front of my truck is jacked up on jack stands to make for easier crawlability under it
so yes at this time it appears we are polishing a turd |
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#4894 |
Post Whore
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Re: Restoring Rusty
but since we was pot committed and because I am a complitionist by nature I bought three new standard size bearings and replaced #1, #2, and #7
I torqued them down to 45 foot pounds in two stages this time, first to 30 foot pounds then to 45 foot pounds (by the way my new China made Craftsman torque wrench is a piece of complete garbage, the plastic handle jams and feels flimzy, I hate that tool) also this time I did not grease the back sides of the bearings and allowed the juicy special sauce on the crank to self lube the fronts well another 9 hour day spent working on the truck, at least I can't say I didn't have the time to work on it finally my day culminated with a start up, rev up to 3000 RPM for 1 minute, a 10 minute warm up, then a nice 50 mile drive, streets and finally highway no noises yet, but we will see what happens after a couple heat cycles, ie start and drive the truck, then let it sit there cool off, then start and drive it again last time it lasted 100 miles, lets see if we can beat that, LOL but I do see a roller block in the near future, Rusty get ready for a transplant! |
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#4895 |
Post Whore
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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#4896 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mexico, NY
Posts: 559
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Re: Restoring Rusty
The water could be explained by any number of things. Leaky head gasket, intake manifold gasket, crack in the block or when you removed the heads it got into the motor. It seems quite possible some remnants from the hone job could have caused that bearing failure though. Did you lubricate the hone at all? It seems like if it was lubed it might run down the inside of the block and get all over. If it was dry then stone and iron dust would get air born and go all over. Hopefully you have it straightened out now.
FYI Last time I pulled my heads I used a 1/4" house with a large tapered tip from my might vac kit to stick in the head bolt hole at the rear of the engine and syphoned the water jacket down, worked great, didn't get a drop of water in the cylinders.
__________________
'84 K10, SM465, NP208, 3.42 Gears, 33x12.5-15 GM 4 bolt 880 roller block, 062 Vortec Heads Comp Cams XR258HR-10, MSD Street Fighter HEI Edelbrock: Performer Intake 2116, 1405 Carb Long tube headers, 2.5" duals to Flow Master Super 40's Vortec Engine Build Last edited by Marshy; 10-10-2016 at 06:01 AM. |
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#4897 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mexico, NY
Posts: 559
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Double post.
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'84 K10, SM465, NP208, 3.42 Gears, 33x12.5-15 GM 4 bolt 880 roller block, 062 Vortec Heads Comp Cams XR258HR-10, MSD Street Fighter HEI Edelbrock: Performer Intake 2116, 1405 Carb Long tube headers, 2.5" duals to Flow Master Super 40's Vortec Engine Build |
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#4898 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: South of Pittsburgh
Posts: 428
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Re: Restoring Rusty
I would have liked to seen some side by sides of your old bearing vs new. IMO none of those look very good for only 100 miles.
Also, gotta imagine if its tearing the rod bearings up, whats it doing to the cam and mains. |
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#4899 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Haines City FL
Posts: 461
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Ok greg... the suspense is killing me is Rusty alive?
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#4900 |
Post Whore
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Ha ha I love it, thank you for asking, Rusty and I have piled on over 200 additional miles since we replaced the three ugly new rod bearings, The Greg is trying to go one whole week without wrenchin' on his truck, remember its running with the stock exhaust manifolds and the LMC Truck 2 1/4 pipe dual exhaust with some type of chambered mufflers, but we got plans for the weekend
Last edited by Gregski; 10-14-2016 at 01:02 AM. |
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