47-55.1 235 Replacement required

[bootman49]

Originally Posted by mick53

I have one in Indiana about 150 miles from you. I'm stuck in Iowa until mid January. It's in my 54 3/4 ton. I don't know what year it is but probably not original. It was the PO work truck when I bought it a few years ago. I can't get home to get casting number. Was told it used to run. It's still in the truck. It's in the back yard. It's a complete engine. I don't need it and if you can wait and are willing to take it out you can have it no charge. I have a bobcat there. I might get home at Christmas and could get numbers. I also have a 4 bbl Clifford intake and Holley carb for a few bucks that came off my 53 that FROZE.

Thank you, lets see how it goes until then.

[dsraven]

do you still have the original block from the truck that you could use? taking stuff apart doesn't cost anything except space. just make a few wooden strips to hold things like lifters etc and label the pistons, rod caps, main brg caps etc so they go back orientated the same. dunno if you are an engine guy but anything machined, like a bearing cap, needs to go back the same way it came apart so the bore remains round like it was made. main caps need to be marked their position and orientation. pistons need to be marked for forward facing and cylinder they came from. lifters need to go back on the same lobe of the camshaft. I usually just take a piece of 2x4 and drill some holes lifter sized, mark front and then drop the lifters in the holes as I take them out. tape over them so they won't fall out if the board gets tipped over etc. a box like a wine bottle box with the little cardboard bottle seperators is easy to make so the pistons and rods can be just dropped in and they won't get banged up. pushrods should also stay oriented with the lifter and tappet they came from. again, a piece of wood with pushrod sized holes works but be careful not to bend any inadvertently doing it this way. just pull the pushrods and stick them in the wood then you know the end in the wood is from the lifter end etc. when all done oven cleaner works good to initially clean the block, just don't get any on bearing surfaces or anything that is aluminum. a metal spagetti strainer works great to clean the bolts etc or a paint can with small holes punched in the bottom. spray the surfaces and parts with some wd40 after to keep the rust off until you can get everything checked for wear limits. a piece of 40-60 grit sandpaper stapled to a wood block works well to clean up any flat gasket surfaces. some heavy duty garbage bags work to keep the weather off the parts and a mattress bag works well for a block bag. wrap the journals on the crank with some rag and electrical tape then spray them with wd40 so they don't rust, same for the cam.
have fun, post pics.

[dsraven]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1956-Chevro...UAAOSw1IhcCdua

it's only about a 13 hr drive......

man,. I just looked on ebay quickly. I can't believe what these old engines go for, like almost $2k and they aren't, like, rebuilt or anything.

good luck man.

[bootman49]

Originally Posted by dsraven

do you still have the original block from the truck that you could use? taking stuff apart doesn't cost anything except space. just make a few wooden strips to hold things like lifters etc and label the pistons, rod caps, main brg caps etc so they go back orientated the same. dunno if you are an engine guy but anything machined, like a bearing cap, needs to go back the same way it came apart so the bore remains round like it was made. main caps need to be marked their position and orientation. pistons need to be marked for forward facing and cylinder they came from. lifters need to go back on the same lobe of the camshaft. I usually just take a piece of 2x4 and drill some holes lifter sized, mark front and then drop the lifters in the holes as I take them out. tape over them so they won't fall out if the board gets tipped over etc. a box like a wine bottle box with the little cardboard bottle seperators is easy to make so the pistons and rods can be just dropped in and they won't get banged up. pushrods should also stay oriented with the lifter and tappet they came from. again, a piece of wood with pushrod sized holes works but be careful not to bend any inadvertently doing it this way. just pull the pushrods and stick them in the wood then you know the end in the wood is from the lifter end etc. when all done oven cleaner works good to initially clean the block, just don't get any on bearing surfaces or anything that is aluminum. a metal spagetti strainer works great to clean the bolts etc or a paint can with small holes punched in the bottom. spray the surfaces and parts with some wd40 after to keep the rust off until you can get everything checked for wear limits. a piece of 40-60 grit sandpaper stapled to a wood block works well to clean up any flat gasket surfaces. some heavy duty garbage bags work to keep the weather off the parts and a mattress bag works well for a block bag. wrap the journals on the crank with some rag and electrical tape then spray them with wd40 so they don't rust, same for the cam.
have fun, post pics.

1949 block was gone before he bought the truck, so not a numbers matching motor that it came with. The block it came with is a 1952 ln need of rebuild. The thought was buy a "fresh rebuilt" high oil pressure 2nd gen or complete in need of rebuild. More power, better oiling quieter with hydro tappets. Just didn't work out. Still searching.

[whitedog76]

Didn't know if you were still looking. This is from West Virginia. A little bit of a drive, but cheap enough.

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads...and-trans.html

[bootman49]

Originally Posted by whitedog76

Didn't know if you were still looking. This is from West Virginia. A little bit of a drive, but cheap enough.

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads...and-trans.html

Still looking so thanks for the lead, bit of a trip.

[old51sedan]

Sorry to hear that you have a cracked block. I'm sure that your truck's original motor was not a 235, but a 216. Not the it makes a big difference, but the 235 is a much better motor for several reasons. The 235 came out in 1950 for use in the passenger car, but only with the automatic. All stick shifts came with the 216 up until 1954, at which time they quit using the 216's. They used the 235 in all trucks and passenger cars with a 6 cyc. until 1963 when they upgraded to the 250 6 cyc. They also came out with the 292 6 cyc as an option in trucks. They also had a 261 6 cyc option for trucks in the late 50's until the 292 came out. There are a lot of these old motors around, that are in good running condition. I have a few 216's, but would not use them because the 235's are a better motor. I pulled the original 216 out of my 51 chevy car and installed a 1954/235 for that reason. I'm currently restoring a 1969 truck and removing the original 250 and installing a 292, just because I have it. Put an ad out as to what your looking for, you will fine one. A 261 would be nice, used mostly in bigger trucks and buses. Good luck, heres a picture of my 51 after I installed the 235.

[bootman49]

Very nice classic

[dsraven]

now, lets see. we drop it and air bag it, tub it, put some huge fatties on it, then grind that paint down to show some red oxide primer through here and there, maybe do some acid washing, then clear coat it. presto, instant patina rat rod.

haha, just joking, that's a nice looking classic you have there. super clean looking and a 2 door to boot. those big white walls make it too.