Remote Batt. Disconnect

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

A Great Member that use to frequent this forum used these on his Golf carts.

I have yet to purchase one.

Most of these have Great Reviews.

Hmm, I wonder who that was...

[D.B]

Just curious why you couldn't install a high amp relay and a battery with top and side post. Wire the top post neg to engine, top post pos to starter. Then the side post neg to frame and side post pos to run everything but starter. Wire key switch to trigger relay. When relay is off there is no power going to the truck except for the starter which is off the battery. Or you can wire in a toggle/rocker switch instead of the key switch. Flip the toggle/rocker on then turn the key. I have not tried it but have thought about it.

[BRL]

Originally Posted by D.B

Just curious why you couldn't install...

Um, I have no idea what you mean on that one but if you ever do hook it up post pictures on it.

So I did install a top secret James Bond 007 kill switch and it works as intended but I can't show it to you because then it wouldn't be top secret.
However I know you all are wanting to see where I hid the wire bus gizmo and that works great while cleaning up the wiring mess.
I do have a tiny chair to help me get under the dash and when I add enough padding it saves my back and about $150 for something more specialized.

[GOPAPA]

Originally Posted by BRL

Anybody tried one of these yet?

Can't seem to find any posts but that doesn't mean there aren't any out here someplace.
I would like to see them be built stronger like in the USA for example, and at first the thing was giving me trouble and I was about to remove it, but that's when I discovered I hadn't fully tightened the screws down yet.
So far so good after a few months.

I got mine in today and it works great ,,but it interferes with my remote door locks somehow .. I hit the off button on the remote and the battery is unhooked and then I hit the door locks on and they do not lock now.. I reverse the way I did it and it still comes up with the door locks not locking

[BRL]

Not really sure how you would fix that since I don't have remote door locks, but I will say that I still have the unit itself and the battery tender hooked up to direct battery negative with no problem.
I tried to run a wire from the negative battery post to the body ground directly and that didn't work, had to run that ground through the unit itself too.

[GOPAPA]

Originally Posted by BRL

Not really sure how you would fix that since I don't have remote door locks, but I will say that I still have the unit itself and the battery tender hooked up to direct battery negative with no problem.
I tried to run a wire from the negative battery post to the body ground directly and that didn't work, had to run that ground through the unit itself too.

Yes,, that is the way it works ..it's device that shuts off and turns on the the negitive side to the ground . I am going to install a small battery just for my door locks and that will make both be able to work ..

[BRL]

My first thought was maybe you could intercept the ground wire to the lock solenoids and run that directly to the battery ground, but then you might run into the same problem I had with trying to hook up a body ground directly. I do know that I turned the key and the engine turned over weakly.
Probably would have smoked that ground wire in short order.

ETA: I don't know, seems to me that as long as you isolate that individual ground wire directly to the battery negative, the rest of the negatives would still be under the control of that unit.
But then again if this thread and my previous pictures has taught any of you anything, it's that I don't have a clue about electronics and it's amazing I haven't already burned my truck to the ground. HA!
Good luck!

[GOPAPA]

Originally Posted by BRL

My first thought was maybe you could intercept the ground wire to the lock solenoids and run that directly to the battery ground, but then you might run into the same problem I had with trying to hook up a body ground directly. I do know that I turned the key and the engine turned over weakly.
Probably would have smoked that ground wire in short order.

ETA: I don't know, seems to me that as long as you isolate that individual ground wire directly to the battery negative, the rest of the negatives would still be under the control of that unit.
But then again if this thread and my previous pictures has taught any of you anything, it's that I don't have a clue about electronics and it's amazing I haven't already burned my truck to the ground. HA!
Good luck!

If only (Vette Man,fellow forum member) reads this and chimes in ,, although have not seen him in a long time but he was really good with the electrical on our trucks

[GOPAPA]

[QUOTE=BRL;9331930]Anybody tried one of these yet?

This is a photo of my remote kill switch wiring ..I plan on a longer positive wire to the starter after some time when I get time ,,but for now it works ..

[BRL]

Cool glad it works.
Interesting how you used a cable with that eyelet (I don't know what they're really called) through the clamp bolt on the left terminal.
I've always stripped the cable to the copper and pinched it under that clamp in the middle.
That thing seems to eventually bend around the cable and never has a tight clamp on the cable itself.

[GOPAPA]

Originally Posted by BRL

Cool glad it works.
Interesting how you used a cable with that eyelet (I don't know what they're really called) through the clamp bolt on the left terminal.
I've always stripped the cable to the copper and pinched it under that clamp in the middle.
That thing seems to eventually bend around the cable and never has a tight clamp on the cable itself.

Them eyelets have a sleeve on them and I strip the copper wire back and stick it in them and use my vise to smash them hard shut ,they are not coming apart I do believe,, I may do a bit of changing as this is more of a mock up ,, but not right away ,,still playing with it ..

[GOPAPA]

i see that 32 or so people out of 1500 or so took a look at this post,, thats ok as I skip over a lot also.. any way for the ones interested in how a battery kill switch and door locks work by way of remote here is what I do to make them both work for me

1- Outside the truck I use the remote to my door switch and lock the doors
2- I then use my remote to turn off the truck battery
,,The Battery is unhooked and the doors are locked

3- By Reversing this I use my battery remote and open the switch to the battery and then use my door remote to open the door locks to the doors...

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by GOPAPA

i see that 32 or so people out of 1500 or so took a look at this post,, thats ok as I skip over a lot also.. any way for the ones interested in how a battery kill switch and door locks work by way of remote here is what I do to make them both work for me

1- Outside the truck I use the remote to my door switch and lock the doors
2- I then use my remote to turn off the truck battery
,,The Battery is unhooked and the doors are locked

3- By Reversing this I use my battery remote and open the switch to the battery and then use my door remote to open the door locks to the doors...

Smart setup.

[GOPAPA]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Smart setup.

Thanks.. now in case I lose my keys while out running around,, all i have to do is call my wife on the phone and have her take my spare battery fob and the door fob and direct her to hold them up to her phone that she is talking to me with and do the rotation I explained above and me being right beside my truck close to the both switches under the hood ,,and that will work wont it? haha

[BRL]

Glad you got it all figured out without having to add another battery or splice wires etc.
and at least 32 out of 1500 are all the wiser now too.