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#1 |
More Cowbell....
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Puckett, MS
Posts: 3,569
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A Few 72's,
I planed mine from 1" rough-cut red oak down to 3/4". Then I used a table saw (no dado blade) and just ran each board through three times to get the desired groove width. Came out perfect. Then I used a router and made little 'relief' notches sideways from the grooves so any water in the grooves would not have to travel all the way to the end of the board to drain off (if that makes sense). Added some stain to get the desired color and applied about 8 coats of clear poly. Not warried abour hauling stuff in mine either. If I "F" them up, I will make new boards. I didn't replace mine to be pretty, I needed a bed that didn't leave stuff lying on the street.
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There once was a member from Puckett.....Who ( fill in the blank blank blank ) bucket |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Alabama
Posts: 705
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Thanks to both of you for the information.
I had found some Black walnut and some cedar at a auction a few weeks ago, but the price went higher than I wanted to give. The high price was mainly due to the amount of wood that was there, was still a good deal, just more wood than I would have needed for a bed floor. If I find a deal on something different, I'll get it, if not will do the oak when the time comes.
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1972 C10 SWB 350 / T400 1972 SWB GMC 350/T350 1972 Cheyenne 20 super "long horn". 402BB / T400 1972 Suburban C10 Deluxe 350 / T350 and a few more.. http://www.myspace.com/afew72s |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: South Texas....the Valley
Posts: 199
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I didn't stain mine and used Spar Varnish, (used on wooden boats), for the UV and water resistance, (available at any hardware store and Wal-Marts). My planks are oak and they came out a beautiful "honey" color.
I put on 4 coats, sanding between coats and trying to keep the dust off the wet fresh coats, and I'm impressed. |
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