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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Patriot IN
Posts: 163
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
Well my new vise came in today!
[IMG] ![]() [IMG] ![]() Old Vs New! [IMG] ![]() [IMG] ![]() Because of how big it is I decided to mount it on the end of the work bench [IMG] ![]() Just to really compare the two [IMG] ![]() it's a Monster [IMG] ![]() So back to the build I did not get nearly as much done to day as I had planned. I cleaned up the dash and painted the inside to prevent rust. [IMG] ![]() I also por15'ed the ends of the dash where its bolts in. How ever as I went to install the dash I had forgotten to mount the hydraulic clutch master for the nv4500. So I wanted to wait to weld the dash in so it would make installing the clutch master easier. I was hoping to have the dash in and the cab seam sealed and primed today. But I was not able to scuff the por15 to prep it for primer as the scuff pads did not come into day. I tried sandpaper but it went through the por15 and that defeats the purpose of having it. So it will be next week it will go into primer. I used an existing hole to for the steering column bracket to mount the clutch master. [IMG] ![]() [IMG] ![]() [IMG] ![]() [IMG] ![]() [IMG] ![]() |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Patriot IN
Posts: 163
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
I got the day off of work today, so I got a little more done.
I finished up the clutch master. I drilled a taped the clutch pedal for its new linkage mounting location. [IMG] ![]() I also got to use my new vice for the first time! [IMG] ![]() [IMG] ![]() I also welded in a nut for the clutch master upper mounting hole. [IMG] ![]() Then I extended the linkage. [IMG] ![]() [IMG] ![]() [IMG] ![]() Then I extended the linkage for the hydrobooster, I used the old adjustable linkage from the old power brake booster that was installed. [IMG] ![]() [IMG] ![]() So having been trying to come up with a way to mount a bunch of AUX switches for lights and all the other feachers I plan on adding as well as maybe a gauge or two. But I could not come up with a way to make them look good that and I did not want to drill a bunch of holes in the dash. I came across this sexy beast a few months ago and I thought about doing something similar. It would give me the perfect amount of space to mount everything. So I cut out the data sheet as I was planning on having a new one made any ways. [IMG] ![]() [IMG] ![]() I bolted the dash in for mockup. [IMG] ![]() I was trying to decide if I wanted to angle it up or make it flush. [IMG] ![]() I was going to weld it in but I decided to make it removable. So I put it in to the sheet metal brake. [IMG] ![]() I welded two tabs in place. [IMG] ![]() The I welded to nuts in place. [IMG] ![]() [IMG] ![]() [IMG] ![]() I put the dash back in for the last time. [IMG] ![]() [IMG] ![]() |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Patriot IN
Posts: 163
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
Weather has been nice this week. So I started tearing down the truck. I also got a few things done around the house.
My new glove box door came in the other day. [IMG] ![]() [IMG] ![]() I removed almost everything in the cab I will need to remove the front clip so I can access a bolt for the heater box. [IMG] ![]() [IMG] ![]() [IMG] ![]() Anyone know what this is or what it does? I was on the coresupport drive side by the headlight. [IMG] ![]() [IMG] ![]() I found this under the gas tank. Its dated May 15, 1982 page 20 it looks like its part of a mag or news paper. The guy I bought the truck off of said he bought it off of a guy that used it to take his race cars to the track. That it was a ramp truck that was modified to a dovetail flatbed so he could put two race cars on it. I was not sure how he got two cars on it but if they where dragsters I could see it. Dragway 42 is in ohio and that is where I bought the truck. [IMG] ![]() [IMG] ![]() [IMG] ![]() I also did this, Broke the knob off. Its cast aluminum so I don't know if it can be tig welded back on or not? [IMG] ![]() |
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#4 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: North Charleston SC
Posts: 504
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
Jarrod,
If you will PM me your address I will send you the leaver you need. Wally |
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#5 |
*************
![]() Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 17,846
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
Your under dash mod looks awesome!
__________________
Rob - https://www.instagram.com/hart_rod_c10 As Iron Sharpens Iron, So One Man Sharpens Another. Proverbs 27:17 FOR SALE: DBW pedal bracket - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651123 FOR SALE: Hood Brackets http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=679945 1987 Silverado SWB - 34.5K original miles http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=801834 1969 SuperBurb - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=200387 1968 Farm truck - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=358692 1968 SWB - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551258 1948 Chevy - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=122164&page=3 |
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#6 |
6>8 Plugless........
![]() Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Prairie City, Ia
Posts: 17,140
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
That is exactly what I started doing for my 72 to house my air pressure gauge, switch, and other switches. I haven't finished mine yet. Great work on it. That black box on the core support is an external voltage regulator for the alternator. Someone must have installed an alt with an internal regulator in it.
That looks so much easier to work on the dash with it removable. I really like the big flat piece on your new vice. That would be great to have.
__________________
Ryan 1972 Chevy Longhorn K30 Cheyenne Super, 359 Inline 6 cylinder, Auto Trans, Tilt, Diesel Tach/Vach, Buckets, Rare Rear 4-link and air ride option Build Thread 1972 GMC Sierra Grande Longhorn 4x4 1972 Chevy Cheyenne Super K20 Long Step side tilt, tach, tow hooks, AC, 350 4 speed 1972 C10 Suburban Custom Deluxe 1969 Chevy milk truck 1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR STG3 Cam Super T10 1940 Ford 354 Hemi 46RH Ford 9" on air ride huge project Tired of spark plugs? Check this out. |
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#7 | ||
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Patriot IN
Posts: 163
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
Quote:
Thanks! Quote:
I plan on doing the same with mine. I guess I will need to delete it as I plan on installing a high output alternator to run all the components I have planed on installing. I'm really happy I remembered to make the piece when I had the dash out. It would have been a pain to weld in the nuts with everything installed. But I suppose I could have used a rivnut/ nutsert. So its been awhile since I have been on here. I keep getting side tracked. But I have made progress. Though not as much as I had hoped for. So I started work on the doors they were complete junk. The inner and outer part of the lower doors had been replaced. However they did a poor job and the started rusting out then they were filled with bondo and fiberglass. I was hoping to just re-replace the bottom of the door but I ended up having to replace the complete outer skin. ![]() ![]() Here is what I am working with. ![]() ![]() My new skins and inner lower panels came in the other week. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() My lower control arm U bolts also came in. ![]() Back to the doors. ![]() ![]() ![]() Lots of cutting, trimming, fitting and rust removal. ![]() ![]() Cheap planes ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Rusty metal primer on where the rust was and primer sealer on the clean metal and over the rusty metal primer. [IMG] ![]() I installed some nutserts as the origenal nuts where missing when the panel was hacked up. ![]() Then I proceed to breaking my tool on the last one. I sent an email to smittybilt wanting to buy a replacement part for the tool and they sent me a compleat replacement free of charge! ![]() Anyways I undercoated the door inside. ![]() Now on to door number 2. ![]() ![]() I sprayed the inner door skins with primer sealer then undercoated them. ![]() ![]() ![]() I'm going to have to go back and cut drain holes in the other one as I believe that is what caused them to rust out to begin with well that and the way they where hacked togeather. ![]() ![]() ![]() So before I could seal up the doors and install the new skins I ended up buying some new toys! Radius dimple dies and a hydro knockout punch set. Unfortunately the knockout punch set is in mm and not inche like it was listed on ebay. More on that later. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() So back to the doors, Something I have wanted to do since I bought the truck. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() So it turns out the knockout punch set is in mm not inches and the dies are just a little to small. So I ended up having to ream them out with running a hole saw backwards not to rip the metal. Then I had to clean it up with a file then a dremel. So I only got one side done today and I had to order a new die in inches. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() So now I get to wait till next week for the new die to come in. |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Patriot IN
Posts: 163
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
Installed the passenger side door skin today!
Getting it ready ![]() I bought a skin zipper I don't what happened. I only used it for about a 3 minutes and it got super hot and started melting? Step 1 worked but I could not get step two too work. I had to hammer and dolly it the rest of the way flat. I don't know if it was the zipper or the dolly but I creased the bottom of the door. ![]() ![]() ![]() I did a fitment test on the door. Everything is good except the very front lower corner it scrapes when the door is opened. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Should I weld this tab on the door skin to the inner door? It's the piece under the vent window. ![]() Random painted parts. ![]() |
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#9 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: North Charleston SC
Posts: 504
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
Yes the leavers are still yours. PM me your address. Cant wait to see it done.
Wally |
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#10 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Patriot IN
Posts: 163
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
Quote:
So yesterday I finished the driver side door. ![]() ![]() ![]() I hammered and dollied the skin on this side it turned out a lot better then the passenger side. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Unfortunately I made a few dents with the clamps when I was clamping it down for the adhesive. ![]() This is the worst one and there is nothing I can do about it because I am clear coating over bare metal. That said I am leaving most of the rust holes and dents in the truck. ![]() ![]() ![]() Soon ![]() |
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#11 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: North Charleston SC
Posts: 504
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
Jarrod,
Package sent. Sent PM with info. Wally |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Patriot IN
Posts: 163
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
Thanks again Wally! I can't wait to get them installed! But first I will need to strip off the paint on the chrome and paint the bracket.
![]() ![]() So I have been slacking on the update again. That said I have started painting. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() For the inner roof I went with regel red. I was expecting it to be darker, not the red I was going for but it's too late now. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I am bed lining the floor so I did not paint it. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I dustless blasted the front crossmember. ![]() ![]() I started mocking up the front air bags ![]() I am definitely going to have to cup the arms I may have to modify the crossmember to fit the bags. But I am waiting on my new ball joints to come in before I move forward. I have no intention on slamming the truck I just have a lot of bag I need to fit. They are rated at 5000lbs each so 10k in front capacity way over kill. ![]() |
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Patriot IN
Posts: 163
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
Well I went ahead and started on cupping my lower control arm. I went with a three inch cup as the bags only compress to about 4 inches and most bags used on c10 compress to about 2.5 inches and it looks like most of them use a 2 cup. I'm not planning on slamming it or any thing. I'm just trying to get the bag to operate efficiently. I assume when the bag is at rest or slightly compressed is where the bag is most effective? granted I know very little about air ride. I have measured my current ride height on the truck from the top of the lowering control arm to the bottom of the spring mount to be 6 inches. The bags at rest are 9 inches and with the 3 inch cups it will be at the stock ride height of 6 inches. The bags max height is 12.5 inches so I can lift the truck 3.5 inches and lower it about 5 inches.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The mounting points are wider than normal bags that and the mounting points needed to be moved over so I milled some new slots and moved the hole over. ![]() ![]() ![]() This is it at 6 inches. ![]() |
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#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Patriot IN
Posts: 163
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
Kind of a Big yet small update! Good news/ Bad news....
I will start with the small. Unfortunately I did not get the truck painted yet. I messed up my back the other week. I had a slipped disc pinching nerve so I was unable to do anything. I'm still not at 100% but I need to get the truck finished. So I started doing some light duty stuff. So I painted some suspension components. I decided to try hammerite braind paint. I was looking for something chip resistant yet cost effective. Hopefully this stuff holds up. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I also sprayed some bed liner on the cab floor. ![]() So yesterday I decided I had rested enough but I probably should had rested a little while longer. So anyways I started on my flip front end conversion lol not really. ![]() I found this when I removed the front end. ![]() ![]() ![]() I removed the headers starter motor, trans mount bolts and drive shaft bolts. ![]() I pulled the engine ![]() ![]() I had to jack the cab up to clear the trans. ![]() I proceed to build a engine test staind... ![]() ![]() ![]() So why a engine test stand? Well some of you have see a Thread I created trying to decide and if I should convert my engine to EFI using the holley sniper system then turboing it down the road. Or swapping in a diesel engine. I was considering a 6.2 and turboing it as I can get a low mileage one for cheap. My other diesel option was a first gen Cummins with 270K that I cannot really afford but would be the most reliable out of the three options and get the best gas mileage out of the three, and would surprisingly cost less then the turbo EFI... Any ways I have been doing research on mainly the turbo efi and the 6.2 and a little on the cummins swap for a few months now and after reading thread after thread on the 6.2 and 6.5 engine destroying themselves I decided not to go with the 6.2. So there I was its 4:30 am I can't sleep my back is killing me. I get on my laptop I can't stop thinking about what I should do. I need to finish the truck. The EFI turbo would cost more then a cumming swap but if I do the efi conversion first then turbo it down the road It wouldn't hurt my pockets as much at once. So I took some more medicine (by the way the side effects are super scary I stopped taking it last week after I looked up the side effects. they went something like this cannot drive or operate machinery, cannot consume alcohol, may cause dizziness, and (impaired judgment I think this one got me) may cause Death!) So anyways it's now 5 something and I just bought the cummins on ebay using paypal credit. Here is a video of the engine running. The engine should be here monday or tuesday! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NunQ...ature=youtu.be So back to the engine test stand I need to sell this engine to help pay for the swap. I figure a 1970 350 4 bolt main with 86k original miles should go for $550 maybe even $650 running on a engine test staind. The test stand may even help it sell faster as the can see that it runs I thought to myself. (On a side note if you noticed the engine test stand is made out of the channel that came with the truck that was used as the stakes in the first photo in the thread.) Well it turns out after I got it on the stand and start cleaning it up I notice the block is black and it looks to be original paint. I know the valve cover had been repainted blue as there was some orange paint under the blue. But it really started to bug me that the block was black and not orange. So I cleaned off the casting number and it says 14010 201 So looked up the numbers and wouldn't you know it its a 305. A 80-85 305 car & Truck 2-bolt Passenger stick. So I suppose everything happens for a reason. I am happy I ordered the cummins and not the efi system. I would have been pisst If I order the efi and started to turbo it and spent all that time and money to find out it was a 305. So now I am trying to find as much info as I can on my swap. This is my list so far. I will build my own engine and trans mounts. I will use the AA NV500 adapter for the first gen cummins. I will swap the input shaft for the cummins shaft. But I will have to have the new input shaft retainer turned down on a lath as I have the 1995 trans. it has the correct gearing but the case is the old style. The drive shaft has to be shortened but it was going to have to be anyways. All new seals in the engine. I will probably rebuild the pump and turbo. I also have a Hx35 I may swap out. I still need to do research on the gas pedal/ linkage. I would like to install some kind of air shutdown/ off valve. As the first gens are known to runway. I wonder If I could use a exhaust cut out valve as a air shut off valve? Can I use the stock radiator? I will need to buy a intercooler and piping. I will need to install a fuel return of some kind. Does a 72 fuel sending unit ue the same oms for the fuel gauge? I would also like to add a 50 gallon saddle tank as well. What power steering lines will I need to use for the hydro boost? Is the alternator internally regulated? I will also replace the water pump. Do the killer dowel pin fix. Route the exhaust. Also does anyone know if I can use a second gen cummins flywheel with the first gen engine adapter and starter? Last edited by jarrodblake; 06-29-2018 at 02:01 AM. |
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Newport Heights, CA
Posts: 1,000
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
Nice work. I like the dimple die holes on the doors. Where else are you putting them? How about the leading edge of the hood? I spy a LWB P-Car on a rotisserie. What's up with that?
__________________
Glenn 1960 Burro Corvair/VW Buggy - Factory made in Santa Ana, Ca 1929 Ford Model A Roadster - traditional pre-war banger hot rod |
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#16 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Patriot IN
Posts: 163
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
Quote:
![]() As far as the 911 it's my long term project. It's a 83 targa that I am converting to a Midengine RSR Backdated coupe. It has 05 911 C2 front suspension 01 boxster rear unibody section and rear suspension. The hubs are almost flush with the stock rs sized fenders. So I am going to probably have to make some RWB or wider flares to tuck the wheels. Here is a link to the build. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...d-find-12.html Anyways sorry I have been slacking on the updates. I suppose it is time for a photo dump. Well I Picked up the engine from fedex the other week! ![]() I stopped by harbor freight on the way home a picked up a new engine stand rated at 1 ton. Along with a few other things. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I also killed my engine hoist... well it blew out an O ring. ![]() ![]() Then the next day, I had to drive a hour and a half to my closest fastenal for a set of bolts, because the cummins engine uses metric and they were the only ones that had that size of bolts in stock. Anyways I got it on the stand. ![]() ![]() I popped one of the valve covers off to see what kind of condition the engine was in and to see how well it was taken of, and to see if there was any build up for lack of oil changes, and it's super clean under the valve cover. But only time will tell when I start getting into it. ![]() ![]() So I finished up the engine test stand and sold it, the engine and trans. ![]() ![]() I quick video of it running. ![]() Back to paint prep. I got the doors down to bare metal. [IMG] ![]() I was going to have the brushed marks going down the side of the truck horizontally but with the body lines it looks better going vertically. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Getting ready for clear coat. ![]() And some clear! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() My bell housing came in yesterday! ![]() ![]() ![]() Test fit! ![]() I have a 95 GM NV4500 so the lower two bolt holes are wrong and I will have to have the input shaft retainer turned down to fit the trans. But the 95 GM uses the same gearing as the dodge so I won't have to swap the gears out. So I bolted the two bellhousings together and drilled out the lower two holes. ![]() ![]() Then I taped the new holes. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() So I may have messed up. I probably should have bought a dodge Nv4500 bellhousing instead of the adapter housing. And bought the engine adapter and starter. As I can not find a clutch fork as the adapter bellhousing I bought you are supposed to use the Getrag 360 clutch fork and it is pretty much impossible to find one and the last listing I found for one for sale was $400 for one. So if anyone knows where one is for less then a $100 let me know. So my plan for now is to cut up the chevy one and see if I can make it work. |
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#17 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Patriot IN
Posts: 163
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
Cab and doors are Painted!
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#18 |
6>8 Plugless........
![]() Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Prairie City, Ia
Posts: 17,140
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
Very nice work on the cab and paint work! I love what you're doing with it! Nice choice on the intercooled VE! I don't know where you read or heard that these like to run away but I have to call BS on that. Now, if the turbo starts blowing oil out of the compressor side, it could run a way. But it is not a common thing on them. As far as the flywheel, you'd probably still use a 1st gen flywheel. I am not sure as I never used that adapter. For a clutch fork call this guy and see if he has one. Mark 402-780-5127. If he doesn't have one, he probably can find one.
The alternator and ac were operated by the computer on the first gens. You can get a 1 wire alternator for these, or use a mid 90s Ford F250 external voltage regulator. I have some info in the Diesel conversion section of this site on them. I think I remember you put a newer steering box on this truck? If so you can use the lines from a square body with a hydroboost. You will have to tweak them to fit nice in there but they work. If I was you I'd get a 2nd gen radiator and intercooler and modify your radiator support to fit them in. I used a stock 4 core BBC radiator in my 72 and I will be putting a 2nd gen dodge one in eventually. My truck will run warm when hauling 5th wheels. Hauling 20k open trailers it is fine. But that wind resistance makes it work more and my engine isn't stock so that doesn't help either.
__________________
Ryan 1972 Chevy Longhorn K30 Cheyenne Super, 359 Inline 6 cylinder, Auto Trans, Tilt, Diesel Tach/Vach, Buckets, Rare Rear 4-link and air ride option Build Thread 1972 GMC Sierra Grande Longhorn 4x4 1972 Chevy Cheyenne Super K20 Long Step side tilt, tach, tow hooks, AC, 350 4 speed 1972 C10 Suburban Custom Deluxe 1969 Chevy milk truck 1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR STG3 Cam Super T10 1940 Ford 354 Hemi 46RH Ford 9" on air ride huge project Tired of spark plugs? Check this out. |
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#19 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Patriot IN
Posts: 163
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
Quote:
Sorry it been such a long time since I have made an update. Back in september I messed my back up at work. I was in the hospital for a week and had to use a wheelchair for a month. I still not 100% I can't say standing for very long or lift anything heavy. I have a damaged disk in my back. I'm weight on insurance to approve a shot. So I can't really do to much at the moment. So here are some pics of stuff that I had got done be for I got hurt. I got the front of the frame painted. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Some steel for my headache rack ![]() Its 5'' 1/4 box ![]() ![]() I removed the side box and the inner box nightmare thing. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I started on the headache rack ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Water pump, thermostat and seals for the cummins ![]() ![]() I got new seals for the doors ![]() ![]() ![]() Installed the headache rack ![]() two receiver mounts so I can make a removable roof rack ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() So now we are back to present time. Last week I installed the rear window in the cab. ![]() ![]() Today I painted the headache rack, just so we're clear I did not paint over rust I had a friend help me wire wheel and frimer all that is painted. I just can't do much right now so I only did a little bit that way I can get the cab on the frame and out of the garage. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#20 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Patriot IN
Posts: 163
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
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#21 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Smethport, PA
Posts: 1,213
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
OK... I see why the Jeep build doesn't scare you. You know a thing or two about bringing rusty junk back to life.
__________________
85 K30 crew cab dually - Project http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=694939 87 Wrangler Rock Crawler - Reason for the project http://www.wranglerforum.com/f330/da...ld-122601.html 04 1500 crew cab http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=786514 |
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#22 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Patriot IN
Posts: 163
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
Quote:
A few random pic before I messed up my back up the second time. I finished the lower control arms and installed the bags. ![]() I started tearing the cummins down to replace all the seal and repaint it and do a few upgrades. ![]() ![]() ![]() I did the killer dowel pin fix ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I traded my motorcycle project for a yamaha moto 4 250 ![]() ![]() Built a winch bumper for it, made a front basket and extended the rear rack. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Front rack was made from the jeep soft top frame and electrical conduit. ![]() [IMG] ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Now we are caught up to a few weeks ago. I made another cab jig to make removing the cab easy as I cant lift or bend. So that really expensive clear coat that was supposed to be formulated to be painted directly to bare metal and not rust... well it rusted. ![]() ![]() ![]() So I spent two weeks removing the clear coat. I can only stand for two hours without feeling like i'm going to die. I probably would have only taken a day and a half. ![]() ![]() So under the influence of the medication I was on and the lack of money, I decided to do a quick and cheap rattle can job of satin seafoam green with fake patina. I don't know if I like it or not yet, but I won't have to remove the cab agin to paint it as I had to remove it to remove all the clear coat and rust. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#23 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Durham, North Carolina
Posts: 782
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
"So that really expensive clear coat that was supposed to be formulated to be painted directly to bare metal and not rust... well it rusted."
Oof, that sucks to hear since you put so much work into getting it to bare metal. I know it isn't for everyone but I think fauxtina (when not overdone) looks nice and saves a ton on a paint job and more importantly the stress that comes with having a full done paint job and driving a vehicle. I think it is a reasonable option if you have an original survivor and want a truck to just drive and not have to worry about.
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My Daily Driver Build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=755668 |
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#24 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: konawa ok/oakdale Ca.
Posts: 1,652
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
Nice work.
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#25 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Patriot IN
Posts: 163
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
Quote:
The way I see it with the way I painted the truck I can just rattle can over the patina spots or touch it up with a can of spray paint and not have to worry about it getting scratched or dented. I built a rock crawler a few years ago It was a 97 tj that was stretched into a lj. I took it all over the place I would beet it off trees and rocks bury it in the mud. It was spray painted flat black and I would just touch it up when needed. Then I put a nice paint job on it. At first I didn't even want to take it out, then I tried to be careful in the trails I just could not bring myself to scratch it up and I no longer enjoyed it like I had and ended up selling it. I don't want to do the same to this truck. I want it to look good but I don't want to stress out over it when I mess it up. If it already looks ratty then a few more dings and scratches won't matter and it will be easy and cheap to touch up if I want and for now I like the look. Pic of the jeep ![]() ![]() Before I made it pretty. ![]() ![]() Thanks, it's getting there hopefully I will get the engine installed some time this week I just need to replace the rear main seal and it should be ready to go in. A few weeks ago I made filler panels for the headache rack I made them bolt in just in case I needed to remove them they are made from the metal from the old side box. ![]() ![]() ![]() I rebuilt the hydrobooster ![]() ![]() I cleaned and painted the power steering box. ![]() I repaired the radiator support ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I had a flag made for my headache rack. ![]() ![]() ![]() I installed the cab a front suspension. ![]() ![]() ![]() I moved the front cross member forward a few inches to clear the front cummins. ![]() ![]() ![]() I temporary ran the air lines into the cab I plan on installing a bulkhead fitting to connect the air lines. ![]() ![]() ![]() I installed the 1975 c30 motor mount brackets so I can run the first gen cumming motor mounts. ![]() I installed all the steering components ![]() I temporarily installed the astro van brake master so I could run the brake lines. I plan on running a 05 chevy 3500 brake master ![]() I installed copper coated lines. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I installed the brake JB8 calipers ![]() ![]() ![]() I installed the flag with stainless security tamper proof bolts ![]() ![]() It was a pain to the rear brake line I installed it in one piece I ordered a 25 foot 1/4 line. ![]() Today I installed the wheels to make it easier to get the engine hoist under the crossmember. There is 5 psi in the bags in this pic the fender is just resting on the tire it's not bolted on. On a side note I looked up the date code on the tires it was 034 = Date of production: 1993-01-25 that means they are 27 years 2 months 18 days old and they have 70 psi in them. That's kinda terrifying I had a 6,800lb tractor on the back of this thing with thouses tires and drove it almost 3 hours home when I bought it. ![]() I painted the trans ![]() I will be replacing the rear main seal tomorrow. ![]() |
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air ride, c30, cummins, nv4500, ramp truck |
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