700R4 build thread.

[clinebarger]

Removing the front drums will expose the Input planetary & Reaction Sun shell.

NOTICE. If there is a plastic Thrust Washer on top of the Input planet, The Unit has a (small) early Forward Sprag assembly, IF you upgrade to a '87 & later Sprag assembly....DO NOT install this Thrust Washer upon assembly.

If the Input Sun gear is left behind in the Input planet, Remove it. Later (90's)units have the input sun gear "snap-fitted" to the sprag assembly.

Remove the Yellow snap ring (pic), Pull the Output shaft out the rear of the case.

[clinebarger]

Input Sun Gear still in the planet upon disassembly....If you have a Early or Mid-Year forward sprag assembly.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

I'm going to continue this thread to help others that may want to tackle a 700R4.

That's a good idea. I'll try to catch up later.

[Clyde65]

Chris, I am impressed with your pictures/diagrams with arrows and everything!

or....did your daughter do this for you????

Ok, Im sorry, I just couldnt help myself!

[BADAZ chevy guy]

After you take us through the initial rebuild, can you talk about shift modifications?
I found this video, but I'd like your opinion on shift kit upgrades.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2B8nyfrFKyo

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by Clyde65

Chris, I am impressed with your pictures/diagrams with arrows and everything!

or....did your daughter do this for you????

Ok, Im sorry, I just couldnt help myself!

Actually she taught he how, I did it all by myself, If I ever learn to dress myself...I will be in good shape

Originally Posted by BADAZ chevy guy

After you take us through the initial rebuild, can you talk about shift modifications?
I found this video, but I'd like your opinion on shift kit upgrades.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2B8nyfrFKyo

I will go in depth if you want, That video had some way out dated practices, B&M still does that to this day.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

I will go in depth if you want, That video had some way out dated practices, B&M still does that to this day.

Cool. Although I won't be doing any racing (To damn old) I know others would like to beef up the trans for racing and towing. From what I understand, which isn't much, faster/harder shifts actually prevent clutch slipping and helps transmission life. Am I on the right track here?

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by BADAZ chevy guy

Cool. Although I won't be doing any racing (To damn old) I know others would like to beef up the trans for racing and towing. From what I understand, which isn't much, faster/harder shifts actually prevent clutch slipping and helps transmission life. Am I on the right track here?

To a point you are correct, Most people go WAY overboard, Like the guy in the video Blocking the Line Bias valve & running a larger Boost Valve. Block the Bias & run a .500 Boost valve....You WILL break $hit, I promise

The Line Bias valve is used to match the Line Pressure Rise to the Torque Rise of the engine as a Variable Bleed & as a Safety Blow-off if the TV valve sticks. The TV Boost valve size controls overall clutch line pressure in proportion to TV valve movement. I guess its a short cut around actually tuning the line bias in with heavier spring/s to match.

What sky high line pressure does to a 2-4 band at a WOT 1-2 shift behind a ZZ430.....

[franky69c10]

Subscribed

[clinebarger]

Now you will be looking at the Low/Reverse return spring assembly & Piston.
Compress the Return spring cage, Remove Snap Ring, Remove Return spring assembly.
Pics 1 & 2 show the spring compressor tool & usage, You can make a tool similar. Or Youtube/Google.

[clinebarger]

Apply air to the Reverse feed hole, The Low/Reverse piston will pop up, Remove piston.

These are 4L60E pics, 700R4 is very similar.

[clinebarger]

Now that the case is bare, Clean the case thoroughly, Having it ran through parts washer is a good idea. Remove the 2 thimble filters from the case. 1 at the rear of the case (Governor feed) & one toward the front (TCC solenoid feed), Before cleaning

Time to leak check the 3rd Accumulator check ball assembly, It is absolutely critical to check this, If it is leaking it will only be a matter of time before the 3/4 clutches burn down.

The valve body face needs to be pointing straight up.
Install 2/4 servo assembly in servo bore.
Install servo cover and retainer, then pour a suitable solvent into the accumulator bore. Observe for leakage inside case. *Pic.
If leakage is observed, replace 3rd accumulator retainer and ball assembly.

Remove 3rd accumulator retainer and ball assembly using a number 4 screw extractor.
Install new check ball assembly, small end first into case, positioning oil feed slot in sleeve facing servo cover.

Using suitable tool, drive check valve assembly until seated in case. To ensure correct installation depth, scribe a mark at 1.653 inch on a 3/8 inch diameter metal rod, then seat the 3rd accumulator and ball assembly as shown. When the scribed line is flush with the case, Installation depth is correct.

The AC-Delco part# is 8634400 if new check ball assembly is needed.

Red arrow is the 3rd accum. exhaust port, It the valve is leaking...Solvent will leak out here. The white arrow is the Bleed orifice...Solvent will leak here...Normal condition.

[clinebarger]

Replace the rear Case Bushing, Knock it out from the rear of case, Install from the front, Not that 700R4's are bad about Case Bushing walk-out like a TH400/4L80E. But procedure is procedure. I use my camshaft bearing installer handle to drive the Bushing Installer & Bushing. I use a Seal/Bearing tool to drive it out.

If ever in doubt, Measure the depth of the Bushing before removal.

Didn't get a pic of my installer, But how many people have a Cam Bearing knocker handle?

[GASoline71]

This thread is sick... Thanks for everything you contribute cline my friend!

Hope the OP gets the working on his rig problem worked out soon.

Gary

[clinebarger]

You will need a good air blower with a good rubber tip. Air pressure 40 to 60 psi.

Pressurize the Forward Clutch Feed. The Forwards will apply. The 3-4 Clutches SHOULD NOT move, Observe the Apply Cage & 3-4 pressure plate for movement though the holes in the Input Drum.
***'87-'93 4L60 Builders, Hold your finger over the hole directly under the Forward feed hole in the pic, On the side of the pump, This is the Forward Accumulator Feed***

Pressurize the 3-4 Clutch Feed, 3-4 Clutches will apply, The Overrun Clutches SHOULD NOT apply, Confirm this by Overrunning the Input Sun Gear counter clockwise by hand, Have another hold the drum stationary if needed.
(The Input Sun Gear is the gear in the middle of the Input drum in the previous pic)

Pressure the Reverse Feed, Listen for gross leakage.

[clinebarger]

If any of the above air test fail, Let me know & I will help, Explaining all that would take pages.

Remove the Input Drum from the Reverse Input Drum/Front pump by pulling straight up with the Assembly is still upside down.

Place the Input Drum in a parts washer or Drain pan with the Input shaft pointing up, Fill the top cavity with Solvent, Plug the Bleed Orifice with your finger.
Pressurize the 3-4 Clutch feed hole between the 2 bottom sealing rings.

If there is a leak between the Input shaft & Input Drum.....Stop, You need a new Input Drum!!!

Check for 3-4 Check ball Capsule for leakage, Replace this Capsule 100%!!!

[clinebarger]

Continued.. You can't see the Bleed Orifice through the solvent.

[clinebarger]

Finally time to disassemble the Input Drum.

Hole saw a hole in your work bench to stick the Input shaft through so you can work on the drum.

Start with removing the 3-4 snap ring from the Drum, Grab the Apply plate at the bottom of the 3-4 stack, Stack upside down out of the way with the 5 Release springs that fall out of the drum & Snap ring.

Remove the Forward Clutch Snap ring (This snap ring is Stout).
Turn the drum over & The Forward Clutch stack, Forward Sprag Assembly, Overrun Clutches, & Sprag Torrington bearing will fall out of the drum.

[fisherman420]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

You will need a good air blower with a good rubber tip. Air pressure 40 to 60 psi.

Pressurize the Forward Clutch Feed. The Forwards will apply. The 3-4 Clutches SHOULD NOT move, Observe the Apply Cage & 3-4 pressure plate for movement though the holes in the Input Drum.
***'87-'93 4L60 Builders, Hold your finger over the hole directly under the Forward feed hole in the pic, On the side of the pump, This is the Forward Accumulator Feed***

Pressurize the 3-4 Clutch Feed, 3-4 Clutches will apply, The Overrun Clutches SHOULD NOT apply, Confirm this by Overrunning the Input Sun Gear counter clockwise by hand, Have another hold the drum stationary if needed.
(The Input Sun Gear is the gear in the middle of the Input drum in the previous pic)

Pressure the Reverse Feed, Listen for gross leakage.

All of my leak tests checked out except the reverse feed....there is a significant amount of leakage that seems to be coming from somewhere between the input drum shaft and reverse input drum from what I can tell. what could this mean? I'm hoping its just due to old, failed input shaft seals that were in my 89 700r4 core.....

[clinebarger]

Replace the 2 Stator Support Sealing Rings & retest.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

Of the three, which Sunshell would you recommend?

[truckdude239]

Sonnax Smart-Shell ive read the beast sun shells sometimes have problems

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by BADAZ chevy guy

Of the three, which Sunshell would you recommend?

Originally Posted by truckdude239

Sonnax Smart-Shell ive read the beast sun shells sometimes have problems

As David said, The Beast have certain issues, Not being balanced being the biggest issue, The heavy weight amplifies it, I have also seen some that are not True. Many Builder swear by them because they don't break.....But what's the point if it's going to beat the Bushings out.

The Stock Delco Sunshell is Fine for under 350 ft/lbs, It was updated a few times & alot better than they used to be (Softer material to prevent breakage), The stuff you read on the internet is from problems 20 years ago.

The Delco shell has 1 Achilles Heel, The Splines can Strip if to much torque is applied. Or towing heavy through hilly terrain....Constant 2-3, 3-2, 2-3, 3-2 can wear the splines, But other things wear as well under these conditions, The pic is a 3-4 clutch plate from a 4.8L/4L60E truck that tows through Colorado a lot, I rebuilt it about 60,000 miles ago, The Sunshell stripped, But look at the internal tangs on the Clutch plate....Almost worn off!!
Point is the Stock shell will last as long as the rest of the Trans IF not over torqued.

The Sonnax Sunshell is actually a reinforced stock shell, A plate is welded around the splined to stop deformation, The reverse input drive lugs are heat treated. A Torrington bearing is added to keep thrust load off the Reaction Planet Torrington. This is a very nice piece, & if funds allow....Highly recommended.

[clinebarger]

OK, Your trans should look like this, Ready for the Reaction Tube/Shaft, & 3-4 Clutch Hub/Input Planet Annulus gear.

[clinebarger]

**If your reusing the Reaction shaft (with a Flat bottom), Place the Brass 4 tang thrust washer on the SunShell, Use TransJel to stick it to the Shell.

**If using an Updated 4L60E Reaction Shaft, Soak the Torrington in ATF, Stick the bearing to the Reaction Shaft......The Delco Shell kit comes with a Shell, Shell to reaction shaft Torrington bearing, Reaction Shaft, & Input planet to reaction shaft Torrington bearing.

**If you are using a Beast or Sonnax Shell, You can still "rollerize" the Reaction Shaft, You need a Reaction Shaft & BOTH Torrington bearings from GM.
**NOTE** DO NOT use the Input Planet to Reaction Shaft Torrington from the bearing kit if you get a Reaction Shaft from GM, It was revised in '07/'08.