Replacing the flexplate without removing engine or transmission

[dmjlambert]

Is this what the one I need looks like? I have the original style starter with diagonal mount holes, and 168 tooth flex plate.

[AussieinNC]

Thats the bracket....it bolts to one of the starter thru bolts, the one with the extended threaded section

There should be a threaded hole just above the oil pan rail approx at end of starter.

The block also appears to be drilled for both offset and straight bolt pattern...

[NJKelly]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

Is this what the one I need looks like? I have the original style starter with diagonal mount holes, and 168 tooth flex plate.

Do you have a link for that bracket, I'm assuming you got from Amazon.

[dmjlambert]

OK, thanks. I ordered one just now. When it comes in I'll crawl up under there with a hand full of different bolts and wrench, and have a look around and try to bolt it in place. I've been meaning to do this because I know they are a super good idea.

[dmjlambert]

I ordered it from eBay by searching for "Bracket 3965589". It should be for a 350 with 168 tooth flex plate and starter with diagonal mounting holes, if I believe the Internet.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/272011458486
I'll let you guys know how it goes when I try to install it.

[NJKelly]

Thanks

My son and I started on it yesterday, got all the bolts out in the bell housing with the middle one on the driver side the 4-inch bolt is too long it hits the body. All the other bolts we're no problem. So I'm going to try and put it in three and a half inch bolt in that spot and proceed according to your plan. With mine having the transfer case being a four-wheel drive I have to also figure that out. I'm thinking I might have to remove those brackets that hold it and at the same time support it along with the transmission to slide it back. If that doesn't work I'll probably end up having to drop the transmission do the job and then have the pain in the ass task of lining up the dowels when I reinstall it. Wish me luck.

[rpmerf]

Originally Posted by NJKelly

... then have the pain in the ass task of lining up the dowels when I reinstall it. Wish me luck.

I take a bolt, cut the head off, grind it so it is a bit more pointy like a dowel, and cut a slot in it so you can install / remove with a screwdriver. Make 2. Put them in place of transmission bolts. Use them to line up the transmission. Once the transmission is in put a couple other bolts in, the pull out the studs and install bolts. It's a bit easier than the dowels alone as they are bigger and longer. Really helps when you have a manual transmission and need to line it up just right to get the pilot bearing in.

[dmjlambert]

If you figure out a good way to get it done, post some pictures. abig84 had an interesting comment earlier about just needing a small amount of space opened up, just enough to get wrenches in there. The way I did it I had a luxurious amount of room, but that was probably overkill. You may be able to get by using abig84's method.

[NJKelly]

yeah I'm thinking I don't need all the space you had. I'm a pretty skinny guy with skinny forearms and skinny hands and skinny fingers, LOL and my son, 16 years old he's even skinnier still. I'll take a bunch of pictures and post them in this thread.

[NJKelly]

How many bolts are supposed to be holding the flexplate to the torque converter? I'm thinking somebody did a s***** job. I have them all out and there are only three. 1972 Chevy Blazer automatic transmission. Th350 with a 350 SBC.

[kazoocruiser]

Originally Posted by NJKelly

How many bolts are supposed to be holding the flexplate to the torque converter? I'm thinking somebody did a s***** job. I have them all out and there are only three. 1972 Chevy Blazer automatic transmission. Th350 with a 350 SBC.

I think if you look at your torque converter you will only see 3 places to run bolts into.

[BugzC10]

Originally Posted by NJKelly

How many bolts are supposed to be holding the flexplate to the torque converter? I'm thinking somebody did a s***** job. I have them all out and there are only three. 1972 Chevy Blazer automatic transmission. Th350 with a 350 SBC.

Five bolts holding the flexplate to the crank and three bolts hold the torque converter to the flexplate.

[dmjlambert]

There are just 3 flexplate-to-torque-converter bolts on my 350 engine with TH400 transmission.

[Boog]

The long bolts deal to slide the trans back for clearance is a neat deal but me, I would take this opportunity to replace the front pump seal while it is apart. If it has been in there for a long time and is now disturbed it could go to leaking once you button it back up. This means the trans will most likely have to be lowered to remove the torque converter and replace the seal. It's cheap insurance.

[NJKelly]

Originally Posted by Boog

The long bolts deal to slide the trans back for clearance is a neat deal but me, I would take this opportunity to replace the front pump seal while it is apart. If it has been in there for a long time and is now disturbed it could go to leaking once you button it back up. This means the trans will most likely have to be lowered to remove the torque converter and replace the seal. It's cheap insurance.

so I have to drop the transmission and remove the torque converter to get at that am I right? I'm thinking that might have to happy anyway, the transmission being dropped as transfer case is proving to be a bit of a problem. Anybody else can chime in and tell me what else I should do while I'm there? I'd love to get as much accomplished as possible, $13 part here and $20 Part there while it's all opened up

[Boog]

Yes. The pump seal is behind the converter.

[NJKelly]

Thanks oh, I thought three was half as many as necessary. Glad to hear it was not a problem. I'll look into that front pump seal while I have it open, thanks.

[kazoocruiser]

I dunno, maybe a rear main seal?

[NJKelly]

Originally Posted by kazoocruiser

I dunno, maybe a rear main seal?

I thought about that, I believe it's a two-part seal based on my research. I think I might, if it's not leaking, leave that alone. I definitely have a leak but as others have suggested it might be from the intake manifold it seems there's oil all on the back of the engine from that height on down. Lots of nuts and bolts are coming out easy because of the lubrication, LOL

[NJKelly]

And by the way I did not buy the flywheel spinner. I simply put a wrench to each side of the flexplate to torque converter bolts and took them off. before I took off the second one I moved the flexplate to the position of the first one by doing it with only one wrench which then exposed the third one removed the second one, and moved to the other side of the transmission to get the third one, and it wasn't a problem. Hope that makes sense.

[NJKelly]

So what are the other holes for? Not mine by the way.

[Boog]

If you are referring to the outward set of holes there are 6. If I'm not mistaken there are two patterns there. One set of holes fit a T350 converter and one set fit a T400 converter, I believe. It's been a while..

[3757chevy]

Originally Posted by Boog

If you are referring to the outward set of holes there are 6. If I'm not mistaken there are two patterns there. One set of holes fit a T350 converter and one set fit a T400 converter, I believe. It's been a while..

That is correct, they are a different diameter .

[dmjlambert]

My starter was OK. I had a saga going on at the time, and the Reader's Digest version is I thought (due to my improper diagnosis) I had a bad starter, and replaced it with Skip White's best mini starter, which promptly chewed up my flexplate. I then replaced the correct bad component on my truck, which was the positive battery cable, and put the original starter back on, and replaced the flexplate. The original starter works great. I am a lousy shimmer, but I have a shade tree mechanic friend who shimmed it for me.