47-59 Parking brake question

[nvrdone]

Im working on using a rachet style pull handle from summit. My plan is to mount it on the left side of the floor between the seat and door with a cable going back to the cross bar under the cab. Then the only problem will be the loss of the left side vent.

[TX3100Guy]

If possible, I'd like to see a photo of the mechanism you are going to use. I can't yet wrap my head around how you are going to connect it.

[fauXGT]

If you already have rear discs, then I guess it has park brake capabilities?
I did not have any of the stock park hardware, so I hunted down some parts.
All cable driven. I just built the firewall mount at an angle before final paint to get the cable to hit the eyelet straight. Probably don't have to.

[leegreen]

have you looked at the linear actuator style electric e-brakes?
e-stopp is one. it has been used by a couple people on the site, but I am not aware of any long term driving reviews

if you have a functional ebrake now it could be the simplest way to get rid of the pedal without needing to mess up your interior.

[nvrdone]

tx3100guy. Unfortunatly I dont do pictures. never figured it out.
The handle mounts thru the floor and then a cable will run back to the left end of the cross bar where the cable to the left rear brake mounts.
The only concern is you have to have enough clearance between the seat and the door to reach the handle.
The handle could also be mounted on the floor in front of the seat with the cable routed to the centerr of the cross bar but that may be a little hard to reach.

[TX3100Guy]

Wow, you guys have given me three great options. After doing a bit od searching and watching YouTube videos, I find that I'm hardly the first guy to have this dilemma of wanting to eliminate the e-brake pedal.

I was so confused as to which way to go, a mechanical handle connected via cable to the existing brake mechanism, the Mico electric unit installed in the rear brake fluid line, or the E-Stopp linear actuator. I had an embarrassment of rich choices.

In the end, I eliminated the mechanical handle method as my interior is nearly finished and the thoughts of moving components to get everything to fit and still possibly not fit properly. But I was torn between the other two alternatives, so I purchased both and after examining them, will return one of them. I have high hope for the E-Stopp unit since it uses my existing brake cables. Also I hate working with brake lines. The endless chasing of drips and bleeding is a pain in the a$$.

[Hcb3200]

Of the two I like the e-stopp. since it uses the normal cable e brakes.

My only thought would be they should improve it to have push on and off variability.
Seems its either all the way on or all the way off. Would be nice to give you control just like you would with a hand driven brake. Maybe version 2 and only for x dollars more.

[TX3100Guy]

Funny I was thinking the same thing. Instead of just a button for on and off, a potentiometer to vary the intensity of the "pull".

After I made that last post, I went and cancelled the order for the Mico unit after I thought about fussing with brakes lines......yet again. I do like the idea of using the existing cables to the rear calipers. Now to find an installation spot that works. HAs anyone here done that already?

[leegreen]

the e-stopp appears to be just a motor driven screw thread, and from reports not a very fast acting one. DC motors are pretty constant torque so all you will do with a potentiometer is change the speed, not torque unless you make a motor driver circuit.

buying a PWM controller premade would be easier. But not make the motor any faster. And you'd need some strain feedback loop to make it work well for modulated braking I think.
Hard to make something remotely actuated and as fast acting and well modulated as a pull up handbrake with thumb release. Maybe a pneumatic system.

The estopp if it works as advertised should be a fine parking brake. And a slow acting ebrake that will slowly increase braking pressure. perhaps not ideal, but way better than nothing. Let us know how it works if you switch to this!

You have already switched to dual circuit hydraulic brakes, keeping those in good shape is the main thing. Before you put it on the road I'd test each side of the dual circuits to make sure that a failure still leaves you with pedal pressure on the nonfailed side: that the pedal does not hit the floor before the remaining circuit in the master builds pressure. If this is true, unless you have a catastrophic failure of the pedal/master unit you will be two failure points away from having to rely on the estopp as an emergency brake.

[TX3100Guy]

I'll probably skip trying to invent a new way to graduate the pressure of the E-Stopp system and just go with what they provide. I just spent and hour ripping out the old foot pedal mechanism and measuring to cut a patch panel to fill in the holes on the floor and firewall. By the time it gets here, I'll be ready to try to find a suitable location and mounting system.

[leegreen]

It would be pretty cool to mount a push/pull switch in the factory brake release bracket under the dash and use the original 'B' knob as the switch for the e-stopp

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by leegreen

It would be pretty cool to mount a push/pull switch in the factory brake release bracket under the dash and use the original 'B' knob as the switch for the e-stopp

Now that has me thinking!!!

[mr48chev]

I forgot that fauXGT had shown his cable setup before. The cable can be run back to operate what ever rear park brake setup you have with just a bit of thinking and effort.

[TX3100Guy]

So here is the linear actuator, now to figure out how and where to actually mount it.

[Hcb3200]

take a picture of you underside above transmission. the least amount of cable turns and routes would be easy to work on test and adjust in my opinion. Just thinking the place i would look would be centered offset to one side of drive shaft or trans hump on passenger side. with a couple of crossbars between cross members. off center to allow for full suspension travel and trans. but hey there are plenty of options. if its near any exhaust runs you will want some heat shields to reflect radiant heat.

[leegreen]

I know you are rear disk, do the brake cables still go to the original brake cross bar? If so I'd find a spot on the frame in front of the cross bar where you could bolt the estopp (or bolt a bracket to mount the estopp on) and then weld a new tab onto the cross bar for the unit to pull on.

stealing mr48chev's picture from post 25, something like this. But it could be either side or even on outside of frame rail pulling on a tab added the part that clamps on the outside of cross bar

[TX3100Guy]

I have bought two c-channel steel bars that I will powder coat and bolt to the bottom of the frame to support the E-Stopp linear actuator. I just did a test fit before I start marking and drilling.

This and a few other things have become my boredom projects while I wait oin my engine rebuild. Next I am thinking of replacing the standard key operated ignition switch with a key switch that is only used to turn off the electrical power to the accessories and to provide power to a starter button. I haven't figured out the correct wiring configuration yet, but after wiring the whole truck, it can't be that hard.

[leegreen]

Do you have driveshaft clearance there?

Next you can fit those kick panels!

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by leegreen

Do you have driveshaft clearance there?

Next you can fit those kick panels!

Good catch. I realized last night in bed that without a driveshaft everything fits. So this morning I ran a string from the diff to where roughly the trans would be and it’s a no go. On to plan C

[Hcb3200]

just put the bars front to back not left to right.
This will solve the cross over the drive shaft they will be only 4 inches apart and can be off set of the drive shaft.
you can go between the bed bars or the frame bars or both a small angle will not hurt.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by Hcb3200

just put the bars front to back not left to right.
This will solve the cross over the drive shaft they will be only 4 inches apart and can be off set of the drive shaft.
you can go between the bed bars or the frame bars or both a small angle will not hurt.

I was excited when I read your reply, but there is no obvious place in the front for the bars to rest. I have a new frame mounted master cylinder that has an electric hydraulic booster pump nearby. The cross member is busy with incoming brake lines, and wiring for the booster, the backup switch and the Hall effect sensor for the speedometer into the transmission.

I'm thinking of mounting the bars on top of the rear frame member above the parking brake mechanism and them mounting the bars with a metal plate directly to the cab floor board where it bulges downward. See photos with arrows pointing to the two mounting points and to the brake mechanism where the E-Stopp would attach via a clevis.

[leegreen]

You could probably get away just bolting the estopp through the cab floor with 4 carriage bolts under the carpet. That would put an downward angle to the cable - do they give any spec on maximum angle the cable can exit the device at?

A better option would be to bolt/weld a plate to the side of frame here in blue and a new tab welded on the cross bar to pull on

or, weld a pull tab on TOP of cross bar and pull it towards the rear if the frame under box provides some better mounting points for estopp



I think what you described in last post would result in the two bars being attached to the frame at one end and cab floor at the other? That would not work well unless something was hinged to allow for the slight flex at rear cab mount. It would also interfere with primitive cab isolation mounts.

[dsraven]

i would try to keep all the permanent parts I could attached to the frame instead of the body. it is going to make some noise when actuated so cab mounting will exagerate the sound likely.
if I were mounting it i would take some flat bar and bent a couple of U shaped brackets with a squared off U and bolt them to the top and bottom rails of the frame and bolt the unit to them so that it would be spaced off the web of the frame and allow access behind it for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring etc and also allow free space for the cable to exit with room to connect to the original brake actuating crossbar. a new lever could be welded onto the crossbar to line up with the Estop unit. a connector link could be made if the estopp needs to be further forward so as not to be in the way of exhaust, trans crossmember etc.
sorta like LG's idea but a little different mounting method so as to space the unit off the frame a little. a short length of square tube could also be used if one side of the tube were cut away to create a long U style bracket. if there were nothing on the web of the frame yet the square tube could simply be bolted to the web of the frame to act as a spacer to space the estopp unit away, and the things that normally get run along the frame web could still be run along as normal except they would run through the square tube.
attaching to the frame instead of the cab keeps all the hard parts attached to the same main part, be that the frame OR the cab. then a simple, weather sealed, wiring connector would unplug the estopp if the cab were required to be removed or the estopp unit required service or replacement later