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#26 |
Senior Member
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Location: Logansport,In
Posts: 546
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Re: Motor swap
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#27 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Re: Motor swap
4.5f/6r
It’s a C20 with coil rear with taller tires in the rear. I went with 2” drop springs up front with 2.5” spindles and 6” drop springs on the rear. The track bar didn’t need to be changed. The 6” drop was enough to swing the track bar in the opposite direction and it worked out. That won’t be for long, I have a feeling. I am swapping to a Dana 60 rear that I found from a big block truck. The track bar on that will be different than the Eaton HO52. |
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#28 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Jurupa Valley, Ca
Posts: 1,210
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Re: Motor swap
Thats almost the same engine I just ordered. Only diff is I bought the GM new engine 350/357 deluxe. Should be right around the same power and was complete like yours. I'm going be doing this toward the end of Feb. Just trying to collect parts I will need.
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Terry 1970 Custom Camper/C20 , GM Crate 350/7004R, Dana 60, factory AC |
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#29 |
Guest
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Re: Motor swap
Costly progress today. I ordered the Holley 20-88 for the throttle cable and the Holley 20-45 for the TH350 kickdown cable. The throttle cable bracket kinda works. The 72 C20 has a round throttle cable attachment and the bracket is designed for a square attachment. I forced it in and it worked. The transmission kickdown bracket is for a SBC intake (12 intake bolts). This motor has Vortec heads and intake. The intake bolts are spaced differently and in a different location than the older intakes. This positions the Holley 20-45 incorrectly.( which had to be bent to fit the intake)
I spent some time on Holley tech support yesterday and ended up with the Holley 20-112 and 20-119 brackets. Now that I’ve spent $200 on brackets and modified my throttle cable, I should have throttle control. (looking over my shoulder to make sure my woman doesn’t see me type that. This is getting expensive. *♂️) Last edited by letsgofast; 01-31-2020 at 10:18 PM. |
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#30 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Monaca, PA Western PA
Posts: 93
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Re: Motor swap
I enjoy this thread. Im glad im not the only one that runs in to problems when i think i have it all planned out. Lol.
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__________________
1971 Chevrolet C20, Blueprint 355. Holly Street Avenger 430HP. Turbo 350 1952 Chevrolet Deluxe. Stock. True survivor with 1 paint job 1953 Buick Special. GM 355. Just a good smooth engine. |
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#31 | |
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Re: Motor swap
Quote:
More progress today. Slow and steady. The starter is on. Alternator is mocked up. Fuel lines, check! Headed to the store for belts and a couple of odds and ends. If Brothers Truck Parts didn’t have the slowest order processing and shipping department in the world, I would be connecting a wiring harness this weekend but instead i will be doing that next week. Buyer beware, Brothers Truck Parts isn’t amazing. 👎 |
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#32 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bowser
Posts: 13,622
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Re: Motor swap
Before you put coolant in it, your heater hose is on wrong.
Supposed to be intake to bottom of heater core, top of core back to water pump or rad. Yours needs to go back to rad as you need that port on the water pump for the coolant bypass from the intake. |
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#33 | |
Guest
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Re: Motor swap
Quote:
Here is the old motor. |
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#34 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bowser
Posts: 13,622
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Re: Motor swap
That would work.
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#35 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 2,951
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Re: Motor swap
Pretty sure you need to run the bypass (like a BBC) because of the Vortec heads.
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ClusterTruck: 68 C10 Bought in 89, wrecked in 03. Slow low $ rebuild started '17. 6.0 & TKO http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=788602 93 K1500 Short Step, 350, NV4500, EBL flash ECU. Vortec heads & roller cam someday... 05 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. 3” lift & 6-speed 02 E320 the insurance total “free car” 13 Tahoe LTZ |
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#36 |
Active Member
![]() Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 186
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Re: Motor swap
I'm glad others brought up the bypass as I'm having a hard time finding a solution I like for my vortec. Edelbrock and others sell a coolant bypass that fits below the thermostat housing, but my concern is the line is 1/4 instead of 3/8 - what have others done for their vortec bypass?
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#37 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Re: Motor swap
If I were to move the lower heater core hose to the intake (brass plug next to the thermostat housing) and run the top heater core hose to the water pump, that should do the same thing, right?? Would it do the same thing if I took the top heater core to the radiator? I would think that coolant would be bypassing under the thermostat at that point. Anyone have thoughts on this?
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#38 | |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Re: Motor swap
Quote:
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#39 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Monaca, PA Western PA
Posts: 93
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Re: Motor swap
Quote:
You have a great looking build.
__________________
1971 Chevrolet C20, Blueprint 355. Holly Street Avenger 430HP. Turbo 350 1952 Chevrolet Deluxe. Stock. True survivor with 1 paint job 1953 Buick Special. GM 355. Just a good smooth engine. |
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#40 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bowser
Posts: 13,622
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Re: Motor swap
Quote:
I dug this up for you. https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com...perature-spike Time will tell. If you get temp swings you might need a bypass. |
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#41 | |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Re: Motor swap
Quote:
Share your build when you get going! |
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#42 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bowser
Posts: 13,622
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Re: Motor swap
We seem to be going in circles!
Do you understand the coolant flow in your motor? |
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#43 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Re: Motor swap
It appears that I did not. I do now. Sorry to be a pain.
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#44 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bowser
Posts: 13,622
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Re: Motor swap
Next!
Temperature sensor! Where you gonna put it? On the intake (drivers side) or in the head (if available). |
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#45 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Re: Motor swap
Temp sensor is going to have to go in the intake. The header flange will prevent the stock location from working.
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#46 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Jurupa Valley, Ca
Posts: 1,210
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Re: Motor swap
That location may not work. From the photo it looks like the sensor will be in the way for the top rad hose. You may need some sort of extension on the thermostat housing to raise it up.
On my future install, I am waiting arrival on a turned down stock sensor to go in the heads at the stock location. I'm going to run the stock ram exhaust manifolds so clearance won't be a problem.
__________________
Terry 1970 Custom Camper/C20 , GM Crate 350/7004R, Dana 60, factory AC |
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#47 |
Active Member
![]() Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 186
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Re: Motor swap
I do not, the motor is bending pushrods so it is almost pulled again and going back to the builder. I had my temperature sending unit on the passenger side and my heater hose on the drivers side, but the hose clamp was touching the upper radiator hose which got me looking at a spacer or using the below part to kill two birds with one stone.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...SABEgLs6PD_BwE |
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#48 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Re: Motor swap
I spoke with Blueprint Engines yesterday. They say that the thermostat in this motor is a bypass thermostat and I do not need to make any alterations to accommodate for a bypass.
I received my wiring harness from Brothers today. It seems to be a nice product, however, the wire to the brake master cylinder was pretty short. I was still able to make it work. Got my belts on after changing pulleys again. One step forward and two steps back some days. I think the end is getting near. |
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#49 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bowser
Posts: 13,622
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Re: Motor swap
You gonna clean up that bag of snakes plug wires?
Something like this works well. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-72133/ |
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#50 | |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Re: Motor swap
Quote:
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