D60 Front Brake Upgrade

[70custom20]

Originally Posted by mcmlxix

The 3/8 bracket with the Dodge rotor only has a few thousandths of interference.....

I havent figured out the rest of the braking system yet. I will probably need an adjustable proportioning valve to tune rear bias. The MC only has two ports so I will need a distribution block or a T block for the front. I'm not sure what would have been used in the 2005 GMC from the facotry. Fisrst step, and the reason for this thread, was to see if I can get the parts mounted to the D60. I hope to see the brackets on Monday and have it machined this week coming up....

For what it's worth, I have a drag car with Strange engineering racing discs on all four corners, and I am not using a proportioning valve at all. The car has no issues stopping from 136+ MPH trap speeds. I don't know if it would be the same for all vehicles though.

Keep up the good work, as I am following this thread closely. I really am thinking just like you as far as capitalizing on modern engineering to upgrade the braking system. My truck is a 70 3/4 ton D60 front, 14 bolt rear.

[ghettoluxury]

cant wait to see your brackets

[70custom20]

What did the factory caliper brackets for the dodge look like? Any chance that they could have been modified?

[mcmlxix]

Originally Posted by 70custom20

What did the factory caliper brackets for the dodge look like? Any chance that they could have been modified?

I am using the Dodge calipers... unmodified... check out post #18 for pics.. you can see the MOPAR logo on the caliper....

[70custom20]

Originally Posted by mcmlxix

I am using the Dodge calipers... unmodified... check out post #18 for pics.. you can see the MOPAR logo on the caliper....

Caliper mounting brackets. Could the factory caliper mounting brackets have been used, modified? Just wondering.

[mcmlxix]

Originally Posted by 70custom20

Caliper mounting brackets. Could the factory caliper mounting brackets have been used, modified? Just wondering.

I think there is a confusion on th ebrackets. The caliper and abutment (bracket the caliper slides on) is being mounted to a custom bracket that fits the Dana 60... without my bracket there was no place to attach the abutment for the caliper to slide on.....

The goal was to be able to use off the shelf parts without needing to modify them... I will be able to go to any parts store or dealer and buy calipers rotors or pads and put them on. This helps if you travel and break something...

[70custom20]

Rich, yes, I was unaware of what was meant by abutment. Keep up the good work, I'm really anxious to see how this all turns out. Thanks, Kurt

[mcmlxix]

Ok. Here is the teaser shot of the brackets, cut out of sheet metal on a waterjet, used to test alignment of components... The sheet metal will be replaced with 3/8" plate (This may change to 5/16" plate to eliminate the need of some machine work) The spacer is 1.5" x .25" DOM and will be TIG welded when complete and ground flush. I may cut them down prior to welding to eliminated the extra step of grinding flush.

[70custom20]

Cool, Rich. It's good to watch the progress your making. Sorry if I'm asking too many questions, but I was wondering how the hydroboost from the 05 GMC was going to work with the redhead steering box you put on the Blazer. The hydroboost I would assume is metric fittings, while the steering box, and maybe the power steering pump are probably standard threads, no?? Thanks again, Kurt
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[mcmlxix]

Originally Posted by 70custom20

Cool, Rich. It's good to watch the progress your making. Sorry if I'm asking too many questions, but I was wondering how the hydroboost from the 05 GMC was going to work with the redhead steering box you put on the Blazer. The hydroboost I would assume is metric fittings, while the steering box, and maybe the power steering pump are probably standard threads, no?? Thanks again, Kurt
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You are correct. I will probably end up with -AN adapters on all components, then have hoses made to fit from a local place. Still not sure yet, havent looked into the hydro side of the euqation...

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by mcmlxix

Ok. Here is the teaser shot of the brackets, cut out of sheet metal on a waterjet, used to test alignment of components... The sheet metal will be replaced with 3/8" plate (This may change to 5/16" plate to eliminate the need of some machine work) The spacer is 1.5" x .25" DOM and will be TIG welded when complete and ground flush. I may cut them down prior to welding to eliminated the extra step of grinding flush.

Looks great.

Leave a 1/4" of the DOM tube sticking up above the brackets and do a fillet weld between it and the plate brackets. Far stronger than an edge weld you would have if the DOM tube was flush with the brackets. Last thing you want is that thing cracking a weld and parts coming loose when you need them most.

[mcmlxix]

On the rotor side I won't have the 1/4... It’s such a tight tolerance that I will only have a few thousandths between the rotor and brackets. I’m not a welder but the idea was to weld the inside edge 360* where the DOM meets each bracket. I’ll leave the fillet to the fish ….

I flexed my MS Paint photo-chop skills... the RED in the pic below is where it will be welded... the other side is the same but cant be seen at this angle...

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by mcmlxix

On the rotor side I won't have the 1/4... It’s such a tight tolerance that I will only have a few thousandths between the rotor and brackets. I’m not a welder but the idea was to weld the inside edge 360* where the DOM meets each bracket. I’ll leave the fillet to the fish ….

I flexed my MS Paint photo-chop skills... the RED in the pic below is where it will be welded... the other side is the same but cant be seen at this angle...

That will work too as long as you can get the TIG or MIG welder torch in there at the proper angle to weld it right. I would weld the rotor side part to the DOM first then put the spindle side bracket in place and weld it from the spindle side where it is easily accessible. This way you have full access to the weld area to do a good quality weld all the way around the DOM tube.

[mcmlxix]

Here are the brackets, cut on the waterjet, out of 5/16" plate. No clearance issues and everything lines up great. Still need the RH caliper for alignment then they can be TIG'd... I was thinking of making a jig to hold the pieces to be welded....

Passenger side ...







Driver side...

[68 TT]

The parts look great and look to fit well too.

I love how nice things look when they come off the water jet. I wish I had one.

[Maxxd07]

Wow that is some great work!

[mcmlxix]

Originally Posted by Maxxd07

Wow that is some great work!

Thanks. The waterjet makes it look like I actually know what I'm doing...

Here is a link to the dorman catalog... http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalog/2006_hardware.htm

I'm going to need longer wheel studs... which seems to be more difficult then originally expected. The hole in the hub for the stud is larger then most of the options in 9/16-18 and if you upgrade to 5/8-?, they dont seem to offer a 60* lugnut for aluminum rims... just 90* seat for "other" rims ...

The factory studs are 2.5" and I was looking for 3.75" or greater....

[ghettoluxury]

looks killer

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by mcmlxix

Thanks. The waterjet makes it look like I actually know what I'm doing...

Here is a link to the dorman catalog... http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalog/2006_hardware.htm

I'm going to need longer wheel studs... which seems to be more difficult then originally expected. The hole in the hub for the stud is larger then most of the options in 9/16-18 and if you upgrade to 5/8-?, they dont seem to offer a 60* lugnut for aluminum rims... just 90* seat for "other" rims ...

The factory studs are 2.5" and I was looking for 3.75" or greater....

What about going with the newer 14mm studs? Does that give you more options that might work?

Converting the rear end to match would be kind of necessary if you used 14mm up front and wanted to run a matching set of wheel locks or like mine a full set of 32 Gorilla wheel locks.

[68 TT]

What knurl diameter is in the hub?

[mcmlxix]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

What knurl diameter is in the hub?

The stock knurl diameter is listed as .65 and I measured all of my studs that came out of the hub with a range of .642 to .648

The 14mm was a thought because my rear (the one I might sell, long story) has the 14mm - 1.5 but none of the dimensions work...

They make a longer stud in 9/16 but its only 3-9/32" and I wanted at least 3-3/4" ... also, the knurl is .677 so I would have to drill... (610-303 dorman)

I did find that Gorilla makes a lug nut for the 5/8 with the correct 60 degree seat so I think I'm going to upgrade to a 5/8 stud.. its knurl is .657 so I probably wont need to drill.... (610-418 dorman)

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by mcmlxix

The stock knurl diameter is listed as .65 and I measured all of my studs that came out of the hub with a range of .642 to .648

The 14mm was a thought because my rear (the one I might sell, long story) has the 14mm - 1.5 but none of the dimensions work...

They make a longer stud in 9/16 but its only 3-9/32" and I wanted at least 3-3/4" ... also, the knurl is .677 so I would have to drill... (610-303 dorman)

I did find that Gorilla makes a lug nut for the 5/8 with the correct 60 degree seat so I think I'm going to upgrade to a 5/8 stud.. its knurl is .657 so I probably wont need to drill.... (610-418 dorman)

You will probably need a press to get them in with the .657" knurl but it should work.

[plummen]

Originally Posted by mcmlxix

Not really.... I got a spare factory bracket two days ago and started to cut and modify. It looks like there are some interference issues. I had exchanged the Dodge rotor for a Chevy rotor because the offset was too deep to use with the factory bracket. I have since picked up another Dodge rotor so I have both to check fitment. I have also ordered a 2009 Dodge 2500/3500 caliper. The Chevy caliper does not fit the Dodge rotor because of overall diameter.... Right now I need some one to waterjet or CNC cut a 3/8" straight bracket...

Here is the factory bracket with one of the ears cut off...



Here is the Chevy rotor and caliper bracket ....





I did pick up a Astro/Safari Hydroboost unit as well as one from a 2005 GMC 3500 truck. I am glad to report that they are interchangable between the two as far as mounting goes. One difference is the Astro has a single keyway where the newer unit has dual keyways. The Astro also has a smaller diameter hole for the master cylinder compared to the GMC 3500. The Astro HB shold support the late 70's Corvette MC for disc/disc brakes. I am using the 05 hydroboost w/ MC and have the Astro/Safari unit in the For Sale section. My goal was to establish if CaptainFab's brackets will work on the newer hydra boost and it does....

Here is a link to the CaptainFab bracket... CLICK HERE


here is a pic of the Astro/Safari hydroboost

if you still need the brackets made ive got a guy about an hour from here that has cnc plasma cutter im taking some parts to next week to have made

[mcmlxix]

Originally Posted by plummen

if you still need the brackets made ive got a guy about an hour from here that has cnc plasma cutter im taking some parts to next week to have made

Thanks but I already got the brackets cut locally...

[mcmlxix]

On Thursday I dropped off the brackets at the welder to TIG the spacers in place. Hope to pick them up next Thursday. Still need to grind the spindle flange to clear the caliper abutment. Got the RH caliper from the brown truck on Friday. I will probably disassemble and powder coat them red. The RH hub was dropped off to be machined and I left them with one 5/8 stud to test fit (press in.) I also ordered some lug nuts off eBay...