Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build

[Tikal48]

Got a crazy idea in my head to put a third brake light over the back window. I have seen them mounted below the window, but I figured it would look unique above. There is not much room there between the inside and outside metal. I removed the dome light, and I am going to leave an access cover to get to the light if necessary. I have an idea of adding a headliner console that will cover this up.

I first looked at buying a 3rd brake light kit, but for the price, I figured that I could fabricate my own cheaper. I purchased 1/2" thick plexiglass and a couple of 8" LED lights on Amazon. But I did not realize that the lights were coming from China. I got impatient and found a 12" LED light at my local WalMart that is really bright.

I fabricated a metal frame and installed it in the cab. I mounted the frame approximately 5° to 10° pointing slightly downward to try to minimize any leakage. I will need to seal the plexiglass to the frame upon final installation.

The made the plexiglass with a shoulder where it would bottom out when installed. I made a mistake of using a power sander that got the plex too hot. It had small check marks that were difficult to get out. I re-cut the plexiglass shoulders to allow a little more surface for me to skin, to clean up the checks. I ended up using a small wood plane that was set to a fine cut, to profile the plexiglass to the contour of the cab. After that, I hand sanded the faces with different grits of sand paper, until I finished it off with 600 grit. I flame polished the faces after that to a clear finish.

[Tikal48]

Here are a couple more shots of the installation.

[Advanced Design]

Nice work, looks really good!

[Tikal48]

I installed the large Autoloc bear claw latches. I temporarily glued a couple of washers to the on the back side of the bearclaw latch to space the latch about .09" just to the outside of the window channel. I wanted to keep a little space between the latch and the window channel. It is close, but the bearclaw slide lock will just clear the inside of the door skin if this is spaced right.

I set the installation plate about 3/16" inset from the raised border around the door panel to clear the bearclaw tips, when the door closes. I added a 3/16" thick plate on top of the installation plate to reconstruct the border, and to add a little additional support. I'm not necessarily going to use the door panel, but it made sense to build it back up. I still have a little of cosmetic work to do, but I had to get this primed due to the rain forecast later in the week. The problems of not having an enclosed garage.

[Tikal48]

Next was the door post. I cut out the original latch and I flattened out the metal fold at the inner most edge, by the weatherstrip channel. (hope that makes sense) I bent a 90° on a piece of 16 gauge, and cut it to fit where the original door post striker plate mount was. I marked the hole location. Go thru the inside of the door thru the BC latch to mark, and drill a clearance hole for the post. Make sure you leave ample clearance for the post adjustment.

I used the Autoloc BC installation post mount, and just bolted it on the back side of the 16 gauge plate. I test fit the clearance of the door to the post recess, and adjusted the post to test the latch. Once everything was positioned properly, I started welding and finishing the recess. I centered the door post mount to the clearance hole, and tack welded the post mount in place.

[iowaboynca]

Nice job on all the work you've done on the cab/latches. Look real good.

[Tikal48]

The metal of both doors needed replacement. I was nervous about cutting and welding this long of section. I cut and fitted the inner door skin first. Then I welded it in. I was well pleased of how this come out. One more door to go.

[99 to Life]

hey man, really nice work so far. I take it this isn't your first build? attention to detail is great, which is nice to see.

[Tikal48]

This is my concept for the door latch mechanism. I figured that I will leave this for a winter project. I was thinking of using a flush mount door handle with this.

[Tikal48]

99 to Life,

Thanks and yes, this is my first build. And yes, I guess that I am a little OCD. This has really been a stress relieving diversion from my real job.

[CodyHicks]

Nice work! I'll follow.

sub'd

[52CrashTruck]

Excellent job. It's great to see a back yard build with this kind of detail.



Jim 52CrashTruck

[Tikal48]

I figured that I would work on the dash this weekend as a change of pace from the doors. I want to smooth out the dash and get rid of the lines of the speaker grill and glove box door. I started filling some of the holes in the dash. I also want to go with a 2 din navigation/bluetooth/radio. I started making a raised center console to mount the radio, and I am playing with the idea of mounting an oval Dakota Digital Climate Control just below. When I get this fabricated, I will get this tacked in place and see if I really like the look before proceeding.

[Tikal48]

I continued working on the center console this weekend. I varied a little from my concept design, in that I made the lower piece sides flush to the top radio frame. I used phosphoric acid to remove the black scale on the sheet metal. That usually takes about 30 minutes to one hour, if the outside temperature is above 90°F. The scale washes off with a water hose. I tried sanding it off before, but that is like sanding glass.

[oldman3]

Nice fab work...Jim

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Nice fab work...Jim

X2. Good idea too.

[Tikal48]

Here are a few shots of the installation of the center console in the dash. I still have a lot of touch up work to do. I ran out of time and did not get the chance to get rid of the steering column recess. I am also debating on what to do with the raised bosses for the throttle and choke cables.

[Tikal48]

I put a new smooth skin on the glove box door. I used 28 gauge sheet metal and formed it close to the glove box door inner skin. The ends were a pain to form, and I wound up with one minor dent. I was still happy with the way it came out. I used a little All Metal and Icing to finish it out. Now I just need to prime.

[Tikal48]

In smoothing out the dash, I am also filling in the steering column recess. That just leaves the throttle and choke bosses to shave off.

[Advanced Design]

More nice fab work. Center of dash looks good. Will an audio system mount there or just for asthetics?

[Tikal48]

I want to mount a 2din navigation radio above, with a DD Climate Control for the Vintage Air Gen II below. This is the oval control that I am looking at.

[Sim6]

Awesome work!

[Tikal48]

I spent the weekend working on some odds and ends. I primed the glove box door and door hinges. I installed it and checked the fit. The left hinge needs to be adjusted or shortened by at least 1/8".

[99 to Life]

I'm not usually a shaved kinda guy, but you did a good job on glove box. outta the million I've seen in person or have, they all have some form of flaw to them and need work. So odds are you didn't skin a perfect box cover anyway.

[Tikal48]

While I was painting, I decided the check out the paint colors that I was planning to use. I cleaned up the coils and prepped them with Plastic Adhesion Promoter. I primed them with an epoxy primer and then painted them with a silver base. The coils we then painted with Eastwood Candeez Violet, which is what I am planning for the exterior truck color, and engine block. The coil brackets were painted with the Candeez Gold. I was planning on doing some of the motor accents with it.