Gorey's 67 GMC 3/4 ton Shop Truck

[goregalore]

Alright, I just partially finished the install of the brake lines I just purchased from www.inlinetube.com. All I can say if this was the perfect solution.
I just cut the old lines out to make it quicker to remove couplers and T fittings. Clean the fittings and started matching up brake lines.
So easy when you buy pre-bent lines.
I also wire brushed the master brake cylinder, and the booster. And applied rust converter. It looks alot sharper. I will post pics tomorrow when I have light to photograph by.

And Duane (Heavymetalchevy) is sending me 2 wheel cylinders w Push rods.
Hopefully this will solve my last parts problem for the brakes.

[litew8]

Tell your experience here where they are discussing pre-bent brake lines.

GG, the truck won't be finished for Halloween!! lol
Good to hear things are getting better though.

[goregalore]

That would have been nice, but slow progress is always better than NO progress.
I responded on the thread as your posted.

I just need to build a garage now so I can tear this truck apart and do to it what it deserves.
I ordered door seals, and got my windshield setup for getting new seals in. I am getting more rust in floor pan than I would like and the driver seat is getting wet.
So, solve those problems and then it might be time to finish the inside of the cab.

[litew8]

I agree, some progress is better than none.
Consider a (cheap) tarp for the days you cannot work on it.
In the meantime, also maybe consider spraying something on the floor to keep the moisture off.

[goregalore]

Here is a pic of the master cylinder, booster, and lines before cleaning and installation of the stainless steel brake lines



Here is what it looks like now with some wire brushing, rust converter, and installing new lines.



well, in regards to installing the inline tube lines. I had no trouble, and everything fit perfect until I reached the rear drop line. I had to put an almost 90 degree bend for a downward turn to install into the drop line mounting plate. And I had 2 other problems. The T fitting is too small of a fitting for the left and right lines. And the line to the Driver side wheel cylinder seems too long. It will fit with a little squeezing. But it doesn't contour the rear end the way I think it should.

[goregalore]

Well, I had to buy a new brass T fitting, but that is ALL I had to do to make ALL the brake lines come together perfectly. Like I said before I had to do a little squeezing but everything fits really tight and it looks great.

I will have to say I have been having a hell of a time with the brakes. The new parts do not look the same as the old parts, and I am having real problems with the brake bar springs. I think I am right about this. But you have to bend the springs so they fit around the end of the brake bar. But when I try to bend the springs they do not bend the same all around. I know I don't know what I am doing. But because of this one problem. My truck has been sitting here close to a month with the truck on jack stands. And the read brakes just covered with plastic bags. I would love some feedback on this.
I need this done soon. I have a guy ready to take out my windshield and put a new seal in before winter to avoid anymore water getting into the cab.

[gcburdic]

Hey gore...did a quick search using the search feature above and found this thread for you that contains a link to a great write-up for those darn brakes....hope this helps ya and you get that truck rolling again
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=497055

[goregalore]

All I have to say is thank you to the gentleman that created that webpage. Without that I don't I could have done any of it.
That is exactly what I used to get where I am. The only thing I have left is the brake bar spring. and the problem was finding the item # for it. But I found it on another thread and just ordered it about 10 minutes ago. I have been looking for that for quite some time. But hopefully on Monday I can get it back together.
What a great project. I just need a garage to put it in now.

[litew8]

How's goregalore coming along?

[goregalore]

Put a new windshield seal in retaining the chrome.

[goregalore]

Things are underway again. I ordered a new brake booster and master cylinder. Yup, the brake booster is going out. All I will have to do is replace the front wheel cylinders or rebuild them and new pads, and it will have 100% brand new brake system. I wasn't wanting to do all this. But this is how it is.
And the power steering is going out. So, will have to do that too pretty quickly.

[Low Elco]

If you have that garbage ram-assist power steering, waste not another nickel on it. Keep dumping fluid in it, and then put a 73-up power box on it. MUCH better, and an esay swap. Should be plenty of info on here about that swap. Cool old truck!

[goregalore]

How can you tell it is the Ram assist?

[goregalore]

I was wrong about bending the springs. The brake bar springs do not come with the drum kit. You have to also buy them separately.
From Napa, I had to buy:
For the rear:
-the new drums (cheaper than having them turned due to being 12" for the 3/4 ton)
-wheel cylinders (they do NOT come with push rods)
-push rods (which you cannot buy new, I had to buy from a forum member)
-brake pads
-brake drum kit
-brake bars
-brake bar springs
-then the complete stainless steel lines
-brake booster
-and went ahead and picked up the master cylinder since it was only $20.
-will need complete ebrake system (i tried just new rear cables but the rest are so stretched it doesn't work)

But even without the new brake booster it works. Just sometimes the peddle gets really hard and doesn't give all the brake it should. and with the vacuum seal leak the engine revs when you press the brakes and makes it hard to shift into gear.

[bgwss]

Interested in your build.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Low Elco]

Had a 67 with the crap steering. I don't think they got the good box till 69 or 70. I could be wrong. Good luck with the brakes!
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[tsali39]

I also have a missing E brake. Will have to order all the parts and reconnect.

[goregalore]

Ok, finally got the garage up and truck in, and ready to go as soon as I get a yard and garden project finished.

One BIG question. This obviously have a nice heavy duty rearend (3/4 ton) and recently rebuilt. And has drum brakes both front and back. Wondering how to handle this. Keep it?
Try to put new spindles and get disc brakes etc...
I wish I knew how to handle this. Also want to lower it, Not enough to take away its work ability but maybe just a lowering kit rather than air bags.

Would love some advice!

[67chevy1series]

It's been awhile! I would consider doing 4wheel disc brakes but it's not as simple for the 3/4 tons, it can be done but I'm not really 100% positive there's a kit out there for them. So considering rear discs may be a little difficult to achieve and that you rebuilt all the brakes in the rear then maybe you should keep them if there doing alright. However if your going to put discs on the front and your feeling lucky you might as well do the rear as well since your already there and your brakes will already have to be bled.

As for lowering the truck, I know CPP sells 4" rear lowering coils that are heavy duty Part number: RCS603-4HD and they also make c-notches that are made of 3/8" steel, which is 1/8" thicker then the light duty c-notches part number 6372CNK-HD and as for the front they don't have any coils that are heavy duty but they have stock height all the way to 3" drop coils. Don't know if you have rear leaf or coil suspension but if you do have coil this would be a nice height and still would be useable to haul. A c-notch is not required or recommended with a 4" rear drop but my suggestion is that it would help give you three more inches (if I remember correctly) of suspension travel for when you have some real heavy weight in the back. Hope this was helpful.

[goregalore]

thank you for the information.
Honestly, the brakes work great. Of course it takes a little more pressure than the 93 GMC I have but they work just fine.
Hell, if I knew everything would be dependable I would leave it as is. I just want a very dependable daily driver with some style.

It is leaf springs.
I could C notch the frame. The main thing I am wanting to avoid is the need to raise the wheel wells or worse also raising the bed. The truck isn't so functional for me if I have to do that.
I do move lumber and soil etc... Although I may not really want to when I get this done.

[goregalore]

Also looking for good suggestions for reuphostering the seats and rebuilding the gauges.

www.classictruckseats.com doesn't look too bad
and http://www.classicgaugeandcluster.com for the gauges. He gave me a very reasonable price.

In addition, The power steering is a little sticky. Works off and on.