64' K10 Project Long Bed

[aotte1]

More pictures on the extra 292 engine, looked at the bottom end, good and bad news. The bearing looked really good for wear and no debris going through them. The pan and oil pickup tube were full of sludge, the pan maybe had two inches of sludge in the bottom. The amount of sludge in the pan does not match the condition of the rest of the engine. Not sure why so much sludge in the pan only, bad oil, lots of idling?

[aotte1]

some more pictures of the extra trans and bell housing out of the 65 ambulance. The bell housing was at least partially painted the engine color.

[aotte1]

Pictures of the trans. from ambulance.

[aotte1]

This 1965', 292 engines plan has changed, originally was going to be used as spare parts. Person who sold to me said it was a low mileage engine. After removal of cylinder head, feeling good, no ridge at top of cylinder . Turned engine over and removed oil pan , their is two inches of semi-hard sludge in sump, and pick-up tube covered too. Decision now is to take apart and bake block to remove residuals from 1964 period oils. Also having machine shop map cylinder wall, to see if I can just hone and use new rings.

My downfall is Leo Santucci's book "Chevrolet Inline Six-Cylinder Power Manual" second edition, just a little change here and their.

[aotte1]

more trans pics, this engine, trans, bell housing is out of a 1965, 1 or 2 ton ambulance, two wheel drive, I think flat nose. That is why it has the hydraulic clutch set up.
Bell housing has same part number as early trucks w/ hydraulic clutch, and 1965 build date code.

[aotte1]

Sorry about reposting previous pictures, senior moment, trying to do to much

Les

[aotte1]

Long term goal is to remove the frame, clean it and paint and move up from their. Currently working on finding a few parts that are missing and making sure everything is working before starting on frame. The front clip is complete, so it is removed and original conditions are being recorded. Plan is to use original bolts/fasteners as much as possible. The following pictures are some of the front clip weather stripping. They are likely not organized well but hope they help report how/where weather stripping was installed.

[aotte1]

I have been sidelined for a while, and plan to bring truck out of storage and back home this week. First step will be to take drive train out and check for any needed repairs. Jointly will be checking frame for extra holes that need welded up. Sure that I will be needing help on deciding what holes are original.

Photo of engine removed previously.

Hope to get parts dipped and frame suspension painted by end of year.

Les

[aotte1]

Got the truck back from storage today, and started spraying bolts for removal. Will be taking lots of notes and pictures before removing stuff.
Planning to replace front axle, trying to decide which to use per CaptainFabs two recommendations. Dana 44 from 71 to 79 or 10 bolt from 1980 to 91. This will be only drive line change for now, if the rest all checks out to be ok. Considering front axle change for braking, turning radious, and ease of adding power steering to K10 truck.

Photo of original spring/axle.

[aotte1]

Current manual steering box to be replaced by one from 1980s 4x4, along with adapter from CaptainFab.

Les

[aotte1]

A couple more photos of disassembly. Radiator and some of the pulleys.

[cru_zn_29]

That's what happens when the oil never gets changed. I bought my first 1964 C10 in 1980 from the original owner with a rod knocking it looked just like that when I pulled apart. The owner said he had never changed the oil just added Raylube when it was low. Original oil filter ( AC) was plugged solid. Raylube was a reclaimed oil that cost 20 cents a quart.

[aotte1]

Cruzn,

I plan to take motor apart and check/clean it because of all the sludge, along with a little rust on the edge of the cam lobes, it is like little crystals of rust on the edge. Hopefully it can be a std bore engine. Ring seal is a big thing for me, lots of efficiency to be had.

Note: bell housing is hydraulic, even though it is from 1965, vehicle was a military 1 or 2 ton chassis. Also trans had the emergency brake on the end of it.

Les

[aotte1]

a couple more pictures.

[C@rnut001]

This sounds like a good plan for your engine and truck. Keep it up and thanks for updating us.

[RANDY COX]

Looking good you got that thing torn down I haven't even started on my bed yet... I was thinking that the 3 nub wheels wouldn't work with disc brakes that you had to use the later 4 nub wheel to clear.

[aotte1]

Randy,

But my 292 sure isn't looking outstanding like yours.

On the three nub wheels, did a rough test, and they worked, turned with out rubbing. Will do a more complete test, includes bolting them on, and report back results. Once I get the Dana 44 installed. The earlier preliminary test was holding them on the Dana 44 by hand and spinning the wheel.

Hope to start welding up the extra hole in the rear bed tomorrow.

Les

[aotte1]

No expert on bumping the body panels, however , here is a photo of the tools used on the bed side panels to straighten them.

The little truck in the photo below, fell out of the bed side panel pocket!!!

Les

[aotte1]

Started welding up some cracks in the bed side panels. Just started to weld. Using a Miller Diversion 180 model. Added a couple extras to the torch. A special gas distribution head to give a bigger bubble of gas, while using less. Also added a flex head too. Flex head is very help full for hard to get areas.
Still learning about filler rod size, etc. Photos below of welder and welded up seam. It was a hard to reach area, with little torch access.

[aotte1]

Another weld repairing a factory brace weld in the wheel well area that had pulled apart, pretty big gap. Not the best for TIG, learning how to float the puddle.

Welded up the ends of the gap/crack first. Then did a small spot, skipped some and did another weld. The puddle needed to be big to bridge the gap. Let each one cool. Over time got it all filed in.

[RANDY COX]

Hey I like your assortment of tools, Now if you can Imagine those tools just laying in the floor board amongst other things there's no room left and makes it hard to find what your looking for.. I have a hard case that my body tools came in.. but anywho looking good on your welding up the cracks. every time I think I'm getting ahead I see 5 more things that need to be taken care of.. I'm getting close to driving mine on the road in case I need it for winter... I used to have several 4x4's now I'm down to just this truck and may need it.

[aotte1]

John,

"One thing about TIG welding old rusty and dirty parts is that even though you blast the surface, the weld puddle will pull contaminates from the backside, into the weld."

How much can all this contamination effect the weld strength for sheet metal, would like to TIG if not a problem? Know condition of metal will effect contamination. These area are likely the worst metal to be fixed.

"What size tungsten and filler rod are you using?"
Will get this info to you tomorrow.

Les

[aotte1]

Randy,

Hope you get things drivable soon, what is your time schedule for having it drivable. I thought real winter starts about early January in VA, when I lived their. Pretty much the same for central KY. I am having fun welding, thanks for complements.

Just getting started on bed sheet metal, and know as you progress with finishing it, you find more things to finish. E.g. Thinking " will it ever be ready to paint".

Les

[Captainfab]

Weld contamination in a sheetmetal weld is not as critical as in structural welding, but if severe enough can create a weld that will fail. You can check for porosity by grinding/sanding the weld down and see how it looks. The weld contamination can sometimes be minimized by using a smaller tungsten and filler rod and also changing the arc frequency and/or the pulse if the machine has those capabilities.

[aotte1]

John,

Photo of earlier wheel well lip weld ground some, with a large stone. Will grind more with smaller stone later. What do you think about condition. Second photo is it polished a little more.

FYI- two photos below are reversed.

"What size tungsten and filler rod are you using?"
Tungsten is -0.092 red head;
Filler Rod is - 0.063 for these welds, also have 0.035, and 0.093

Unit does not have controls for phasing, etc., this unit has some electronic controls that effect output based on the amperage setting you choose. Probably have not been using it correctly as I leave it on high amperage and just used foot control. Today started setting amperage for thickness of metal welding, your comment got me to thinking ( remembering what manual said).


Les