Project "HOT WRECK" 62 Short box DUALLY

[erock805]

oohh did you get a pic of that big thing in the air? that's amazing to me. keep rollin

[HOT WRECKS]

Originally Posted by erock805

oohh did you get a pic of that big thing in the air? that's amazing to me. keep rollin

That was the plan but I managed to turn off my camera mid action instead snapping the picture LOL!

[HOT WRECKS]

Had to work today until 2:00PM but got started stripping the 1 ton as soon as I got home. It looks like this as of 9:30 tonight.



I have to remove 45'' of length. I'm Not just going to cut out a 45'' suction of frame and weld it back. I'm going to move the spring hangers up 45'' into the nice clean section of frame and build fresh from there back. recycling as much frame as I can



So as of last night I decided that I am going to use the 1980 cab floor and the lower portion of the fire wall. This way I will not have to make new cab mounts on the frame. And since the floor and cab mounts are in very poor condition on my 62 cab this will take care of me having to repair them. Other benefits are all the clutch linkage and peddles are where they need to be. As are Steering column, hydra boost brakes, and E-brake pedal assembly...... But the best part is I'm going to channel HOT WRECKS body 2-3''


Need longer hoist.....or better yet a shorter truck!

[HOT WRECKS]

Ok lets get up dated!


Everything removed from 1980 cab. Floor, fire wall, pedal/column assembly &
e-brake pedal are all that remain.



I spent a few hours getting my hoist absolutely level front to back, and side to side. Laying out and squaring up 115'' WB on hoist deck. you can just see the markings for the centre line of the rear wheels just ahead of the MSD sticker

Transferred the centre line of the rear spring hanger bolt to the top of the frame. Measure forward 44'' to locate new hanger centre line.

[HOT WRECKS]

Time to start the kick up in the frame for the rear diff flip.
I have shortened two 73-87 truck frames before but never lowered them to the extreme that is one is going to be. So where to start?? After a few well spent hours of locating the new diff centre line for 115'' WB and some more figuring of where the axle is going to sit after the flip and moving up the spring hangers 2'' I knew that the bottom of the frame over the axle was going to have to be 2 1/2'' higher than the top of the straight frame rails after the cab. And I want a 8'' of frame length over the axle. 4'' on either side of the axle. My frame angles at the kick up will be 45 degree angle.
the frame width is 7 1/2'' tall after the cab and 4 3/4'' tall at the rear bumper
So starting with this info here's how I made my templates. starting with some card stock I cut one strip at 7 1/2'' wide (front frame) one strip at 4 3/4'' wide (rear frame) and one strip at 6 3/4 this strip represents the piece of frame just over the rear axle. 4 3/4'' for the frame and 2 1/2'' for the distance between the original frame and where my new frame bottom will start. from there I knew that my length of frame just over the axle is going to be 8'' so at 2 1/2'' up on my 6 3/4 piece I measured out 8'' line and at the end of the line on each side I drew a 22.5 degree angle to the top that gave me my starting piece. 8'' short to short of a 22.5 degree angle 4 3/4 tall.

now with this template done and in position I took the 7 1/2 strip and cut a 22.5 degree angle long at the top and lined it up with the 22.5 degree angle on the first template, then copied that 45 degree angle onto the frame. Intersecting the two lines (they have circles around them in pic) at the top and bottom of the frame gave me my 22.5 degree angle that the frame will be cut at. and then transferring that measurement back onto my template gives me 10'' long to short 22.5 degree angle template. I then used a straight edge to taper the 7 1/2 side at the bottom up to the bottom of the 22.5 angle on the 4 3/4 template.


the rear most template is the easiest. it will be 10'' long to short of a 22.5 degree angle just like the front one but with no taper. just 4 3/4'' the entire length.


Its a little wordy but I hope it makes some sense.

[C@rnut001]

Wow, this is going to be one amazing truck! Keep up the awesome work on your build and thanks for all of the updates. I think it is great that your son is helping you and learning from you. I am definitely going to be following along as you complete this one!

[Narxoleptic Customs]

Thumbs up!! Keep the pix and progress coming.

[HOT WRECKS]

Originally Posted by NASTY-LSX

really cool project. Cant wait to see the end result!!!

Thx. I can't wait to see the end result myself!

Originally Posted by Bomp

That is some seriously nice finish work there.

Thx you just put a great big pride smile on my face

Originally Posted by C@rnut001

Wow, this is going to be one amazing truck! Keep up the awesome work on your build and thanks for all of the updates. I think it is great that your son is helping you and learning from you. I am definitely going to be following along as you complete this one!

Thx. My son is loving this project. He will talk about it endlessly to who ever will listen

Originally Posted by Narxoleptic Customs

Thumbs up!! Keep the pix and progress coming.

Thx This is my first forum build and I'll tell you it is really satisfying sharing my passion with others who appreciate it also. It really keeps me motivated to trudge forward and show everyone the prior weeks of work

[HOT WRECKS]

Here's some pictures of the start of the build of the rear section of my frame build before I got side tracked rebuilding my rear diff.


disassembly of rear most section of frame rails



test fitting stock rear frame rail to custom built section



same as last picture different angle


trimming the back side of the frame rail along the line shown to keep the frame rails the same width then entire length of the frame.


welding up all the factory holes

[HOT WRECKS]

upper spring is the stock one ton, 10 leafs plus the heavy over load spring at the bottom. and at the top is the over load spring helper pack.
the lower spring pack is what I will be using. five leafs, Plus I will be adding the heavy over load spring to the bottom of the pack


At the sand blasting yard. blasting the disassembled 14 bolt diff
(dam it's heavy) plus all the leaf springs, brackets, and rims.
spent $300 sand blasting WOW!! it's not cheep


Primed and painted all parts gloss white.(frame and all suspension parts will be gloss white) Spent another $300 on Trem-Clad rust paint, Canadian version of Rust-Oleum.
Even building a rat rod is not cheap!!

[Dinos63]

buddy awsum start!! and it looks like you have some great help and great skills

[Mad Rods]

Subscribed! Gonna be a cool build!!!

[Mr Pops]

K I'm watchin

[jkeating1]

I can't wait to see more of this! Weld porn!

[flashed]

Im in on this one .

[HOT WRECKS]

this is the rear shackle/spring hanger lower bracket that was originally riveted to the bottom side of the frame rail. I cut off 2'' of it which contained the two rivet holes then welded it 2'' higher onto the side of the frame at the designated measurement from axle centre line.

here is the outer rear shackle/spring hanger with 2'' cut off the top and three relief cuts in its side, mounted over the inner bracket. Also not very visible in this picture is the four plug welds that have been ground down. you can just see the bottom left plug weld


With some oxy/acetylene and a moderate sized persuader the bracket now looks like this



here is the side of the bracket welder and ground smooth

[Bomp]

Dang that is Slick.

First thing you made me think is "Now I gotta redo my cab mounts."

Good show Man, GOOD SHOW

[HOT WRECKS]

YEAH!!!!! Frame rails and spring brackets completed!! NOTE: NO OTHER FRAME RAILS WERE HARMED IN THE MAKING OF THIS FRAME (100% RECYCLED!!!) FROM THE SAME TRUCK

probably welded up at least 200 factory holes in frame rails from the cab back.

I wanted all my fishplates on the inside of the frame rails, so that face of the rails were smooth. But that still wasn't good enough for me (I am my own worst critic) so using
die grinder, carbide bits and hard rolls I cleaned up all welds on all 8 of the fish plates inside the frame rails. WHAT A PAIN IN THE A$$.

I ground and smoothed all the welds inside and out of all four spring hangers.
the small hole at the bottom of the hanger is to allow water to drain out

finished rear spring/shackle hanger

here's a fun picture of the original hard brake line. this would be hooked to the 6'' rubber line going to the centre of the rear diff. now its at the rear most of the frame rail.
The white cross member is in its original location, for now. I used it to help make sure the frame rails were parallel while I was squaring and welding frame
I will be moving it as far forward as possible, and welding in a class 5 receiver at the end of the frame rails. Then installing my gas tank in between them.

[Low Elco]

Looks like good work! Git you some!

[aggie91]

Wow, thats been a bunch of cutting and welding, let alone the grinding you have done. Looks like your on track for the 15th.

Tuning in to see this one to the end.

[Bomp]

That is the cleanest frame work inside and out I think I've ever seen.
Totally Top Notch.

[duallyjams]

Dually's are cool.

[1963c-10]

Some awesome work...really cool build.

[aggie91]

HOT WRECKS - what's the latest on this one. Its almost been 3 months with no update...

[BIG V]

Looking good