Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA

[1970cstblazer]

Dr-2240

[Rust_never_sleeps]

I'm a pretty cr@ppy mechanic, but I'd be happy to loan you my dwell meter, or wut-ever else you need. PM me

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by 1970cstblazer

Dr-2240

Well, that's embarrassing. You're right. I even used to be a parts counterman. I deleted my post to avoid confusion downstream.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

good to crack open that distributor and see if it can use the "detached condenser" type of points. I got the kind with the can on top and it makes it harder to get a feeler in there

[Luke87gt]

Wow, you guys are awesome! I’m already learning a lot.

I’ll place an order for all the tune up parts today, might even swing by Monument Car Parts in Livermore.

Hopefully they have a carb rebuild kit in stock too.

The most pressing item currently is the heavy gas fumes in the garage. It’s overwhelming and the wife isn’t thrilled about that. I need to address that first before anything else. If anyone has any tips on common sources for this, I’ll be sure to look into those. For now I can tell that the gas cap rubber is pretty brittle and cracked. Additionally, there looks to be a bit of fuel puddling between the carb and intake as mentioned above.

Oh, and if I don’t have any optional gearing, what’s default ratio?

And before I forget, oil capacity for the 250? I’ll pick up some 10W-30

[Luke87gt]

When I saw the condition of the floors, door jams, and doors, I knew I was going to make an offer…

[Luke87gt]

Also, I bought a 15” replacement steering wheel from CJPony to replace the 13” in there now. It didn’t occur to me at the time of purchase that 15” might not be optimal for 3 on the tree? Anyone have experience with this?

Also, I’ll need to find a Chevy center cap for the steering wheel. Wonder if those exist for this (4) hole style steering wheel.

[howzzzit]

Staying with points ignition will teach you how these trucks were originally designed and how they work. Nothing wrong with points ignition. It's becoming a lost tuning art. I find it quite satisfying to replace the ignition parts and set dwell and timing on an engine. I've had classics and a muscle car from the 60's. All ran points ignition. Never had a failure. I've had my 72 since 73 and still running points. It's easy to change to hei down the road if you wish. Don't forget you will need a timing light whichever way you go. It's a nice truck. Keep it original. IMO

[RonWT]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

Thank you. Maybe someone can post both a 250 and a 292 and show the differences?

I’m assuming it’s an open rear? I’ll jack up the rear and rotate one of the wheels to be sure but I expect it’s an open.

Pardon my ignorance but what is a “points” and “condenser”? Mind pointing me to that in RockAuto? Wonder if those have another name I’m more used to… Thanks

Welcome aboard, the points and condenser are your ignition components under the distributer cap. There is a solid knowledge base here. Best wishes,

RonT

[novaX522]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

When I saw the condition of the floors, door jams, and doors, I knew I was going to make an offer…

Nice truck!!! Looks really solid

[Steeveedee]

That truck's looking nicer all the time. Want to sell it?
I've had points ignition engines that have gone 30k+ miles between tune ups ('69 Nova, 250 CI engine, sold with original engine and trans at 200k miles). Nothing wrong with points.

[68bowtie]

I have a 1968 gold steering wheel that might be a close match if you’re interested.

Probably better to have a 15” if you don’t have power steering.

[68bowtie]

Those floors and rockers are unreal. Really well done.

You said it’s a cut down longbed? Can you post pictures of where the bedsides were cut?

[68bowtie]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

Wow, you guys are awesome! I’m already learning a lot.

I’ll place an order for all the tune up parts today, might even swing by Monument Car Parts in Livermore.

Hopefully they have a carb rebuild kit in stock too.

The most pressing item currently is the heavy gas fumes in the garage. It’s overwhelming and the wife isn’t thrilled about that. I need to address that first before anything else. If anyone has any tips on common sources for this, I’ll be sure to look into those. For now I can tell that the gas cap rubber is pretty brittle and cracked. Additionally, there looks to be a bit of fuel puddling between the carb and intake as mentioned above.

Oh, and if I don’t have any optional gearing, what’s default ratio?

And before I forget, oil capacity for the 250? I’ll pick up some 10W-30

This will help with a lot of your questions:

https://www.gm.com/content/dam/compa...olet-Truck.pdf

There’s a section for Standard equipment and one for Optional equipment. If it’s not on the SPID, you have the Standard option.

[BROWN 70]

congrats on your truck. looks to be in great condition. stay with the points, just my opinion. good luck, BROWN 70

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by 68bowtie

Those floors and rockers are unreal. Really well done.

You said it’s a cut down longbed? Can you post pictures of where the bedsides were cut?

I don’t see any evidence of where it was cut (that goes for the frame and the bedsides). When I get under it, I’ll probe around more and take some pics.

[Luke87gt]

I ordered all the tune up parts between RockAuto and Monument.

One question: For the coil, do the parts distributors identify points as “breaker points” ? That seems to be how most of the coils were listed. I went with Blue Streak for the coil.

Also, not sure if this is recommended but for the carb rebuild kit I went with Standard Motor Products #1573A

https://www.rockauto.com/?carcode=1310233&parttype=5964

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by 68bowtie

I have a 1968 gold steering wheel that might be a close match if you’re interested.

Probably better to have a 15” if you don’t have power steering.

Attachment 2341561

Wow, that looks awesome. What’s the diameter on that one, 15in ?

I had my heart set on the one I pictured above but that’s tempting in that color.

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by Rust_never_sleeps

I'm a pretty cr@ppy mechanic, but I'd be happy to loan you my dwell meter, or wut-ever else you need. PM me

Hi neighbor, thank you!

I should probably buy my own dwell meter if I’m going to be wrenching on this truck. Does anyone have any meter recommendations online? I’ll order. Thanks

[Rust_never_sleeps]

I'm not familiar with the MonoJet, but since it's leaking I'd put in a new float in case the one you have has sunk.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

I ordered all the tune up parts between RockAuto and Monument.

One question: For the coil, do the parts distributors identify points as “breaker points” ? That seems to be how most of the coils were listed. I went with Blue Streak for the coil.

Also, not sure if this is recommended but for the carb rebuild kit I went with Standard Motor Products #1573A

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breaker points or "ignition breaker points" is what they seem to call those, yes

I used that brand rebuild kit for my Quadrajet and had no problems with it.

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

Welcome to the best site ever! I grew up in P-Town out on Tassajara before the houses went nuts out there. 6363 to be exact. There is a school there now. We had a bunch of these on the farm. In fact my Blazer was stored there in the 80's. Nice start. I always lik the feel of the all original 6 and three speed. Fun and reliable. I miss that area sometimes. Where are you at?

Very cool! Pleasanton is a great town, I can’t say enough good about it.

We are about 1 mile from downtown in the Del Prado neighborhood near Hansen Park.

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by 68bowtie

This will help with a lot of your questions:

https://www.gm.com/content/dam/compa...olet-Truck.pdf

There’s a section for Standard equipment and one for Optional equipment. If it’s not on the SPID, you have the Standard option.

Outstanding reference, thank you

[68bowtie]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

I don’t see any evidence of where it was cut (that goes for the frame and the bedsides). When I get under it, I’ll probe around more and take some pics.

A typical giveaway is most people that cut them down leave the center stake bed pockets. If there are 6 it’s a cut down longbed. If there are 4 (and no evidence of being worked on) then it’s probably a factory shortbed.

Also, you mentioned you bought this from a 80-year-old that doesn’t seem like the type of person to cut one down.

Until you prove to me otherwise, I’m thinking this is a factory short bed ha ha

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by 67 twins

For ignition components like cap, rotor, points & condenser I always use Blue Streak parts. If you do decide to upgrade to HEI remember you get what you pay for. An $89 ebay distributor is no bargain. Get an original GM distributor & rebuild it if necessary. Tom Lowe at 12bolt.com has used distributors for your 6, as well as other new & used parts.
Welcome to the board.

Very good advice. I'd refresh the OE distributor instead buying a cheap HEI distributor with module and mag pickup of unknown quality. Points will work just fine for this truck.

Heck, back in the 60s thru the mid-70s, all we had was points, and I don't remember ever being left on the side of the road due to a failure. Wish I could say that about HEIs! We did have to check the points gap every several thousand miles, and sometimes carried spare parts. When you do change the points, be sure to change the condenser to keep the new set of points from pitting. Also a new cap and rotor wouldn't hurt, depending on what they look like.

Man, that truck would be a fun one to work on! I hope the problem is not something internal like a valve or ring.