NJ Suburban

[LockDoc]

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If the springs have been replaced with lift springs that will happen. My '70 Longhorn 4x4 has the same problem with the 3" lift springs, as you can see in this picture....

LockDoc

[pwdcougar]

Is there any way to move the wheel back? Great looking truck. Love the color.

Paul

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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If the springs have been replaced with lift springs that will happen. My '70 Longhorn 4x4 has the same problem with the 3" lift springs, as you can see in this picture....

LockDoc

[pwdcougar]

Thanks guys. The shackles are going up not down so they haven't been flipped. It must have lift springs. Stock height for this truck was pretty high but it is an inch or two higher now. Once I ditch the running boards it will probably look better.

Paul

[pwdcougar]

Removed the grill, stereo, one running board and lots of odds & ends. The rear wheel doesn't look so out of place now.

Paul

[pwdcougar]

Cool. Thanks Leon, I'll start looking around for a set.

Today I got the Lund visor off, the other running board and more of the interior. The visors were really popular in the 80's and 90's. Does anyone run them any more? This one will go up for sale soon as well as the bumper guard.

Paul

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pwdcougar

Cool. Thanks Leon, I'll start looking around for a set.

Today I got the Lund visor off, the other running board and more of the interior. The visors were really popular in the 80's and 90's. Does anyone run them any more? This one will go up for sale soon as well as the bumper guard.

Paul

No problem Paul...

I think some guys still use the visors. I see pictures of trucks with them on here....

I took the running boards off of my '71 and a friend of mine wanted to buy them for his '69 DD. His wife wouldn't ride in it because it was too high for her to get into.

LockDoc

[pwdcougar]

Almost ready for the sawzall! All that is left to remove is the steering column and the seats. Took tons of pictures.

[pwdcougar]

Ready for some Sawzall therapy!

Paul

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pwdcougar

Ready for some Sawzall therapy!

Paul

Looks like you have your work cut out for you

LockDoc

[pwdcougar]

Sawzall therapy was successful. Looks like my only problem area on the frame is the rear section. I'll have to cut the section out of the 68 frame and weld it in.

Next step will be to degrease and power wash and after that remove the fuel tank, fuel lines and brake lines.

Paul

[pwdcougar]

Rear frame section and my home made hitch. That gas tank sure looks out of place, for now!

Paul

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pwdcougar

Rear frame section and my home made hitch. That gas tank sure looks out of place, for now!

Paul

Wow!!!, you sure made short work out of that!..

LockDoc

[pwdcougar]

Lots of aggravation at work Leon. It was really good therapy!

Paul

[pwdcougar]

3 cans of Gunk to remove all the built up crud on the engine and transmission. Looks like I need a replacement trans/transfer case cross member. Are they tough to find?

Tomorrow I'm going to pull off and save the exhaust system, start wire brushing and remove the body supports that need replacing.

Paul

[richard2717]

Paul,
If it is the same as the Blazers I am pretty sure I have one here that is in decent shape. it was a turbo350/205 setup that was in it.

Richard

[pwdcougar]

Thanks Richard. Can anyone confirm that it is the same as what I'm running? How do I identify what transmission and transfer case I have?

Paul

[bigrigpardo]

that is a 4 speed sm465 with an np205 transfer case. so its a 465/205 combo were a 350 205 was a turbo 350 auto with a 205 case

[pwdcougar]

Originally Posted by bigrigpardo

that is a 4 speed sm465 with an np205 transfer case. so its a 465/205 combo were a 350 205 was a turbo 350 auto with a 205 case

Thanks for the info. Did they make different 4 speed trannys for the trucks?
With this combo, 1st was always a low or crawler gear and I always started out in 2nd. With my 68 2wd burb, it started in 1st, 2nd was too steep and required me to slip the clutch too much.

Oh, I saved the entire roof of the burb I scrapped if you want some of the sheet metal.

Paul

[pwdcougar]

Cut the rear frame portion from the 68 today in the pouring rain so I can repair the rear section of the 70.

Any recommendations on welding this on? I was thinking of the following steps:
1) remove the rear shackle mount

2) make wood braces under the existing frame in 3 or 4 locations to orient the frame where the X's are.

3) cut the original frame and replacement frame at the same point.

4) butt weld inside and out

5) use my extra steel to fish plate inside the frame

6) re drill the shackle mount and bolt back into place with grade 8 fasteners.

Any suggestions? Should I post this on the truck section or someplace else?

Thanks

Paul

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pwdcougar

Cut the rear frame portion from the 68 today in the pouring rain so I can repair the rear section of the 70.

Any recommendations on welding this on? I was thinking of the following steps:
1) remove the rear shackle mount

2) make wood braces under the existing frame in 3 or 4 locations to orient the frame where the X's are.

3) cut the original frame and replacement frame at the same point.

4) butt weld inside and out

5) use my extra steel to fish plate inside the frame

6) re drill the shackle mount and bolt back into place with grade 8 fasteners.

Any suggestions? Should I post this on the truck section or someplace else?

Thanks

Paul

That sounds like it will work. I would cut the side rails on a 45º angle instead of straight down though....

LockDoc

[pwdcougar]

Spent the last week removing all the bolt on hardware from the frame. It is all leveled and ready for frame repair.

Paul

[pwdcougar]

Right side done except for reinforcing plate and left side almost ready for welding.

Paul

[pwdcougar]

Both sides are done! Now on to removing the engine, transmission and transfer case and get the frame ready for paint. Didn't add a reinforcing plate to the right side and not sure I will. The heavy steel homemade hitch plate that bolts on should act as enough reinforcement. Had trouble welding the left side reinforcing plate on the upper inside. None of my grinders would reach the inner corner of the frame for clean metal to weld. Once the drivetrain is removed maybe I'll try a different wheel on my 7" grinder, tilt the frame up and re weld that part.

[Average Joe]

Nice work!

[pwdcougar]

Been a while since the last update. Wasn't going to pull the motor and trans originally but the right way was to get down to the bare frame as much as possible. Kinda weird how parts of the frame were rusted completely through and other parts still had the original primer (light grey) and original black paint. I've ordered up a new double roller timing chain and will get rid of the one with the plastic teeth. Some days I work on the frame and others I work on getting the motor ready for paint. Any recommendations on engine paint? I've used DupliColor in the past. I'm going with the original Chevy orange.

Paul