47-59 59 Chevy Viking 40 Rebuild “Stamford”

[70C10Ginger]

I got this guy in 2020, and have been trying to get the parts I need to get it out of its current resting space. I think I’ve sourced tires to let me get it running and driving. The end goal is to have it be a work truck for my tree company, that only I drove, and have it be a 4x4 rig during, after that time. Anyone have a bench seat haha

[_Ogre]

Very cool! I'd like to see your Viking get back to work!

[70C10Ginger]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

Very cool! I'd like to see your Viking get back to work!

You and me both 🤣 it’s just looking pretty as of right now

[mr48chev]

That one looks pretty solid compared to a lot of them.

[dsraven]

are you planning a 4x4 dually or single rear wheel?
there are a few ways to get to the 4x4 version, some include a frame swap to a newer chassis that is already a 4x4. it can be some work and may put the truck out of commission for a long time. it depends on your drive to get it done, personal life committments, a place to do the work and store lots of big parts, your skill level and tools available. oh yeah, then there is the budget. I always recommend talking with someone who is knowledgeable about doing this sort of thing. prefferably someone who has actually done it. ask about what it takes, budget wise and parts wise before you commit to tearing down your truck. download a copy of the factory assembly manual (trifive site has it. 55-59 chevrolet truck factory assembly manual). do some plans and drawings on paper with actual dimensions etc. do all that waaaay before you start chopping things up, thats how these things get to be a project for sale or a bunch of parts taking up space where you should be parking.
your truck looks to be amazing shape. great find.

[70C10Ginger]

Originally Posted by dsraven

are you planning a 4x4 dually or single rear wheel?
there are a few ways to get to the 4x4 version, some include a frame swap to a newer chassis that is already a 4x4. it can be some work and may put the truck out of commission for a long time. it depends on your drive to get it done, personal life committments, a place to do the work and store lots of big parts, your skill level and tools available. oh yeah, then there is the budget. I always recommend talking with someone who is knowledgeable about doing this sort of thing. prefferably someone who has actually done it. ask about what it takes, budget wise and parts wise before you commit to tearing down your truck. download a copy of the factory assembly manual (trifive site has it. 55-59 chevrolet truck factory assembly manual). do some plans and drawings on paper with actual dimensions etc. do all that waaaay before you start chopping things up, thats how these things get to be a project for sale or a bunch of parts taking up space where you should be parking.
your truck looks to be amazing shape. great find.

I’m a purist, and I refuse to put beautiful old steel on 500 pounds of wired, hot garbage haha.

I’m going to be looking for an ambulance rear end, dually, then look for a Dana 80 for the front end. Im an arborist, so I’m going to redo the wooden bed with some lumber I have. I need it to carry a 4,000lb machine on the bed, and a 10,000lb trailer regularly. I have an NP205 that SHOULD (hopefully) by nutty enough for the Cummins swap I want to do also 😅 it has a 6 speed rhat I have no idea what it is, and the old 2 piece rims.

[70C10Ginger]

Heater still works, and it runs. The tires are TOAST, so that’s what I’ve been stuck on for almost two years 😭 It has a 1975 350 in it now, with a little single barrel carb. It only has one butterfly. I have a double barrel Rochester on the 70 gmc I have, and it looks smaller than that was haha

[dsraven]

when you get ready, before you spend a bunch on parts, i recommend to thoroughly check the frame from front to rear for straight, square and sag. look for loose rivets, heavy rust around bracket mounts etc. you will be asking a lot from it when you get it like you want it. a corner to corner dimension should be within 1/8" I believe. check the assembly manual for how to check frame

[dsraven]

be very carefull with those split rims, they have hurt and killed a few over the years. the ring tends to blow off and take a piece of whatever is in it's path.

[70C10Ginger]

Originally Posted by dsraven

be very carefull with those split rims, they have hurt and killed a few over the years. the ring tends to blow off and take a piece of whatever is in it's path.

That’s what I’ve been fighting. I would have preferred to be able to do the axle swaps first, but I am tired of using my 70 2500 for work all the time 😵*💫

I was going to run these for a year or two until I get all the parts lined up for the 4x4 swap

[Hcb3200]

I totally agree with the guys on this one.
You know what you want it to do and what it needs to be capable of.
Like they all said start with the ground up ( you have already addressing tires)
Since its going to be a true work truck doing work stuff.
Good tires, (not splits) better than stock brakes, and a good frame to start.
Then work your weight items, springs, shocks etc.
Then drivetrain etc.
Last thing you want is this to "start" to be a work truck then have massive downtime having to work on something that cannot be bolted on later.
Example that seat might actually be last (lol)
Make a really good plan on parts, order of need and what you actually plan on doing. Then execute in order. Planned correctly it could be a working truck just without a few things that can be added easily later when funds are ready.
And down times can be short when adding something on.

but always enjoy your ride.

[70C10Ginger]

Originally Posted by Hcb3200

I totally agree with the guys on this one.
You know what you want it to do and what it needs to be capable of.
Like they all said start with the ground up ( you have already addressing tires)
Since its going to be a true work truck doing work stuff.
Good tires, (not splits) better than stock brakes, and a good frame to start.
Then work your weight items, springs, shocks etc.
Then drivetrain etc.
Last thing you want is this to "start" to be a work truck then have massive downtime having to work on something that cannot be bolted on later.
Example that seat might actually be last (lol)
Make a really good plan on parts, order of need and what you actually plan on doing. Then execute in order. Planned correctly it could be a working truck just without a few things that can be added easily later when funds are ready.
And down times can be short when adding something on.

but always enjoy your ride.

I’m excited, and it seems like I’m going down the right path. That’s what I did with my 70. Had a couple small down times, but if I have a backup truck, it’s not as big of a deal. I know I want to lift it 2-3 inches when I do the axle swap, I need hydro boost brakes on both trucks cause of the way people drive anymore, and then I’ll worry about the pretty stuff. I still have the original seat, no heater or anything in the truck I use now. The Viking at least has a working defroster 🤣

[70C10Ginger]

I do want to see if I can box the frame, or have a new one built to a diesels specs. The worst thing I could imagine for my company, and pride, is to have a vehicle that’s supposed to be amazing, crumble due to bad craftsmanship.

[dsraven]

A few years back there was a fella on here that did something like that. He used the floor and firewall from the donor. Dont remember seeing a finished version.
It's a huge job to accomplish what you want there. What about a smaller diesel, like the Cummins 4 banger. Quite a bit shorter. Less cab room gone maybe.
If it were me I would do a long flat deck instead of a truck box. The lifted diesel 4x4 duallys look like a kids tonka truck in full size. I'm past that. Lol.
The look you want is up to you but do some serious planning and pricing before you turn a nut and bolt on the actual truck. Lots of guys get in over their head. Dont wanna admit it. Can't afford to farm it out, so it sits in pieces and finally gets sold for cheap.
Maybe once you get it home and can see how actual solid (or not solid) it is you can make a plan and talk to a few guys, and shops who do this kinda work, and get some ideas, do and don'ts.

[70C10Ginger]

Originally Posted by dsraven

A few years back there was a fella on here that did something like that. He used the floor and firewall from the donor. Dont remember seeing a finished version.
It's a huge job to accomplish what you want there. What about a smaller diesel, like the Cummins 4 banger. Quite a bit shorter. Less cab room gone maybe.
If it were me I would do a long flat deck instead of a truck box. The lifted diesel 4x4 duallys look like a kids tonka truck in full size. I'm past that. Lol.
The look you want is up to you but do some serious planning and pricing before you turn a nut and bolt on the actual truck. Lots of guys get in over their head. Dont wanna admit it. Can't afford to farm it out, so it sits in pieces and finally gets sold for cheap.
Maybe once you get it home and can see how actual solid (or not solid) it is you can make a plan and talk to a few guys, and shops who do this kinda work, and get some ideas, do and don'ts.

I’ve got a structural welder that is the foreman for the ski lifts out here helping me, a machine shop helping me find and build the 6bt, and I can do the geometry for the 4x4 conversion.

[leegreen]

Somebody wired that poor thing with their feet. I'd hate to see under the dash!

[dsraven]

good to have a plan. check some posts on here about seat choice, firewall reworks etc. buckets with headrests may move the seat further forward than you want or leave the seat at an uncomfortable angle due to the limited space behind the seat for the tall seat.
if you get to the drawing stage maybe figure out how much the firewall will need to go back and then mock that up with cardboard, see what kind of interior space you have left
the best would be to draw out a stock scenario and then draw out you rendition of the modified scenario. then overlay them and see how it all fits.
yeah, I know, I can't draw either. lo.

[leegreen]

post #83 here is painful
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...=825785&page=4


but it gives some idea of the difficulty of fitting front sheetmetal around the radiator location of a modern frame. Radiator and engine both have to go back to get the fenders over the wheels.
With a flat deck you get some options about putting the radiator behind the cab to buy some length in the engine bay.

[70C10Ginger]

Originally Posted by leegreen

post #83 here is painful
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...=825785&page=4
Attachment 2276404

but it gives some idea of the difficulty of fitting front sheetmetal around the radiator location of a modern frame. Radiator and engine both have to go back to get the fenders over the wheels.
With a flat deck you get some options about putting the radiator behind the cab to buy some length in the engine bay.

Which, as previously stated, I refuse to put something this beautiful of 100lbs of copper. Thanks for all the opinions!

[Rickysnickers]

MiraclePie posted that one, hideous!!! As an aside, I wonder where Pie is these days...

[leegreen]

yes, as it sits. Wonder if they kept going, grafting on the cab . Looks like the width matched up somewhere along the beltline.
Hope it was a donor truck that was not otherwise savable.