Complete T5 swap thread - one way to skin the cat

[hb32]

I used a S10 driveshaft which needed a u joint to match the 55 rear and had it shortened about 6 inches.

[nachodog2]

You can shorten the stock drive shaft and have the driveshaft people install a u-joint that fits to the driveshaft and new slip yoke. A turbo 350 yoke will work, and I believe the u joint is called a conversion joint.
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[bigyellow]

Now that you've had a while to drive around with the t5 what kind of mpg are you getting? i'm starting my swap tonight after work =)

[jocko]

As for d/s and yoke - I did exactly what Nachodog mentioned - took it to a driveline shop and had them cut it and install a T5 27 spline slip yoke. Had new u-joints installed at the same time. Cost around $100. Some cut em at home, but NOT me... Doing it this way - the rear part of the driveshaft remains the same, just a stock 66 u-joint connecting to the stock pinion yoke, just like it already was.

bigyellow - excellent question and I wish I had an answer! Unfortunately, I just got my speedo working about a month or so ago. I've been chasing my tail on an electrical gremlin since then (unrelated issue - has nothing to do with the trans).

So, I can't really tell ya how much better it is. Technically, I should be using 70% of the gas I used before if all I did was drive around in 5th gear - but to be honest, around town I seldom see 5th, so probably not much improvement realized yet. BUT, the fun factor is way high - and it should do a good bit better on the highway.

EDIT - when talking to the driveline shop, make sure to remember to emphasize to them you're working on an S10 T5... I was talking "S10", but he was listening "Mustang" - kept trying to sell me a 28 spline slip yoke instead of a 27. Mustang hot rodders probably send the driveline shop more biz than we do when it comes to T5 upgrades.

[LostMy65]

Hey jocko,
Thanks for linking to this thread.
I missed it before.

[jocko]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Hey jocko,
Thanks for linking to this thread.
I missed it before.

you're welcome!

[brokenspoke]

I just finished the T-5 swap in my truck....wow what a different truck.....all I have left is the speedo cable....all I could find at auto parts store was a 83 inch cable...hopefully this will work....the orginal is 63 inches...

[jocko]

Originally Posted by brokenspoke

I just finished the T-5 swap in my truck....wow what a different truck.....all I have left is the speedo cable....all I could find at auto parts store was a 83 inch cable...hopefully this will work....the orginal is 63 inches...

I originally tried an 8" extension or something like that - didn't work because it made a ton of noise. In reality, you only need about an extra 8-10" of speedo cable, but if I remember correctly, I ended up using one a good bit longer than I needed. You should be fine. Just route it so you have the smoothest bends possible. Glad you're happy with the swap, I agree - it really does make a big difference!

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Hey Jocko I have a extra slave and the fork arm if you know of someone that could use those parts. I thought that huge fork arm was hard to get?? Anyways if needed I have em, Cover shipping and we are good.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by GMR-PERFORMANCE

Hey Jocko I have a extra slave and the fork arm if you know of someone that could use those parts. I thought that huge fork arm was hard to get?? Anyways if needed I have em, Cover shipping and we are good.

If jocko doesn't have someone on mind, I might be interested.
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[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Well I am getting the end of my build and these extra parts need to go , or I will toss them.. I am not one for hanging on to old parts just because..
I have a bunch of stuff, and once I get this all together I will post up the complete list.. Funny though I tried to give away a complete front end with all new ball joints , tie rods, upper and lower arms, cross shafts everything new or rebuilt etc, and I had Powder coated it as well.. It ended up going in the dumpster.

[jocko]

Have at it gents, I don't have anyone in mind - thanks for asking.
Sounds like lostmy65 could use it.

Slave with fork arm setup should be just for 60-62 if I'm not mistaken(?) The fork arm I used was just a plain old stock (non-slave, all mech) setup - dime a dozen - but if the fork arm is different for a slave cyl setup, then it probably is much harder to come by.

[duallyjams]

Great write up thanks.

[brokenspoke]

My T-5 had some kind of reducer on speedo connection....with GPS my speedo is 2 mph slow over actual speed...I did find a speedo cable for a monte carlo that was 75 inches......I'm happy

[CRGRS 66]

Fantastic thread, time to go hunting for an S10 T5!
Thanks Jocko

[wc63]

Originally Posted by brokenspoke

My T-5 had some kind of reducer on speedo connection....with GPS my speedo is 2 mph slow over actual speed...I did find a speedo cable for a monte carlo that was 75 inches......I'm happy

hey brokenspoke,
what year monte carlo was that from? im getting to end of my swap and want to have it ready

[CRGRS 66]

Question on output shaft. I know a f@@d guy who shortened the output shaft by 1/2", didn't use a spacer.

Could I shorten the output shaft by 1/2", and not bother with the spacer?

[jocko]

Originally Posted by CRGRS 66

Question on output shaft. I know a f@@d guy who shortened the output shaft by 1/2", didn't use a spacer.

Could I shorten the output shaft by 1/2", and not bother with the spacer?

Assume you're referring to shortening the trans input shaft. I looked at that, but what you will see is that the tip of the input shaft is the turned down section that inserts into the pilot bushing. If you simply chop 1/2" off the end, you are not really left with sufficient engagement into the pilot bushing. Some folks HAVE done this, but I would not. You also have to consider the engagement of the i/p shaft splines with the clutch. I built a cardboard mock-up in 2D to examine all the clearances and what was gonna hit what and when - main reason to do this is that the Astro Van 11" clutch and pressure plate have a slightly different stacking height than the stock 3-speed, so I was concerned about proper amount to cut off the release bearing collar, clearance between the fat stack of new clutch/pressure plate and the thickness of the release bearing (which, if purchased in the Astro Van clutch kit, all works out because it is thinner than the stock 3-speed's release bearing, this is why it all works out).

[CRGRS 66]

Originally Posted by jocko

Assume you're referring to shortening the trans input shaft. I looked at that, but what you will see is that the tip if the input shaft is turned down section that inserts into the pilot bushing. If you simply chop 1/2" off the end, you are not really left with sufficient engagement into the pilot bushing. Some folks HAVE done this, but I would not. You also have to consider the engagement of the i/p shaft splines with the clutch. I built a cardboard mock-up in 2D to examine all the clearances and what was gonna hit what and when - main reason to do this is that the Astro Van 11" clutch and pressure plate have a slightly different stacking height than the stock 3-speed, so I was concerned about proper amount to cut off the release bearing collar, clearance between the fat stack of new clutch/pressure plate and the thickness of the release bearing (which, if purchased in the Astro Van clutch kit, all works out because it is thinner than the stock 3-speed's release bearing, this is why it all works out).

Thanks Jocko, when I get working on this in the fall/winter I think I will order the spacer from hamilton (seems a $110 well spent), outside of that I will be doing this conversion your way.

[RAYDAY]

why not use the 4.3 s10 bell housing and hydrolic throw out and just bolt it to the motor?

[CRGRS 66]

Originally Posted by RAYDAY

why not use the 4.3 s10 bell housing and hydrolic throw out and just bolt it to the motor?

That is a very good question. I can get a spacer from Hamilton, or shorten the output, but I think the hydraulic throw out would add to my head scratching... I think.

Jocko... ?

[jocko]

Originally Posted by RAYDAY

why not use the 4.3 s10 bell housing and hydrolic throw out and just bolt it to the motor?

Originally Posted by CRGRS 66

That is a very good question. I can get a spacer from Hamilton, or shorten the output, but I think the hydraulic throw out would add to my head scratching... I think.

Jocko... ?

I'll assume the bell housing is a direct bolt-on (I just don't know for certain), but it comes down to whether or not you want to use your entire stock set-up that currently works - or - work the nit noids of marrying up a manual clutch pedal to a hydraulic release bearing master cylinder (and purchase that master cylinder), route the hoses, and hope it all bleeds easily... Me, I have enough trouble bleeding my brakes, so that's the last thing I wanted to add. One benefit though of a hyd release bearing setup is you free up a little more room for headers on the driver's side.

Also, note that you cannot do the whole bell housing thing from a Camaro, a Camaro T5 has a "twist" built in that cants the transmission so the stick lines up correctly in the Camaro console. That is why if you buy a Camaro T5 stick from Hurst or the aftermarket, it's got a cant built into the stick that results in an upright stick (ask me how I know...). So, I would not begin to attempt with a Camaro bell housing. A Camaro trans on a stock truck bell housing is a great thing (no spacer is required because a Camaro has the correct length input shaft) but you have to make sure you put an S10 tailshaft onto the Camaro's main case if you want the stick to clear a bench seat.

So, to answer your quesiton, yes, I believe you can do what you're suggesting, and it might be a good idea if you REALLY want a hyd release bearing (keep in mind - this would be a hyd release bearing setup, NOT a hyd slave cylinder setup that came on 60-62 Apaches). However, if you are choosing to go with an S10 bell housing because you think it might be easier - think again, setting up the hyd release bearing, installing the MC, etc is more work and more difficult than using the stock truck bell.

My 2 cents only, many ways to skin the cat. Hope that helps!

[jocko]

Hey Craigerrr, here's one more source for the spacer. This guy is a GREAT guy and takes a lot of pride in his stuff. I would confirm that it will work with a V8 bell before ordering because most of his stuff is geard fro I6 - so I'm not positive it will fit, but he could answer for sure. http://vintagemetalworks.blogspot.co...ter-plate.html

[CRGRS 66]

Originally Posted by jocko

Hey Craigerrr, here's one more source for the spacer. This guy is a GREAT guy and takes a lot of pride in his stuff. I would confirm that it will work with a V8 bell before ordering because most of his stuff is geard fro I6 - so I'm not positive it will fit, but he could answer for sure. http://vintagemetalworks.blogspot.co...ter-plate.html

Thanks! You are a good man Charlie Brown!

[jocko]

btw, did you notice the vintage metal works guy makes a new one for the bigger hole belll hsg dia? http://vintagemetalworks.blogspot.co...bore-bell.html So he DOES make em for v8's now - BUT make sure you measure your bell housing index ring diameter - 60-66's with V8s "should" have the 4.686" dia index ring (i.e. hole) and 67-68 had the 5.125" index opening. Anyway, just shows he can make just about anything - so he can probably easily make one to fit your situation. You should have the 4.686" bell housing opening if it's the stock 60-66 bell, but never hurts to measure before you order/call to see if he can make one. You dan't have to be real precise in your measurements, there are only 2 sizes - if it's larger than 5", then you can order the part above. If it's less than 5", you have the 4.68." bell index ring, and I'd give him a call to see if he can make one up. Just an option if Hamilton is not available.