47-55.1 51 Chevy on a Ford Explorer Subframe - Time for a Different Frame Swap!

[dsraven]

Just a thought on ride height. The front suspnsion is likely engineered to work with the lower control arms sitting level with the truck at ride heighy, like when its got the weight of the truck, a tank of gas etc, but no payload. If your "new" body weighs less than the original one then the suspension will lift the frame higher and the steering geometry may be outta whack. As the control arm moves up and down through it's arc the lower ball joint moves further away from the frame until it reaches its midpoint, when the control arm is level, then the ball joint moves closer to the frame as the suspension continues through its arc. In order to get good handling and proper alignment you may need to mess with the springs to achieve originally engineered ride height. When I did mine I installed some suspension "pins" to lock the suspnsion at ride height with the original body still on. When all done with the swap I'll remove the links (basically square tube linking the upper and lower shock mounts) and adjust the springs to achieve the original suspension ride height. It would suck to build the truck at an elevated ride height and then find you need to lower the suspension causing the body to be too low for our awesome road system.......
Just a thought for you to consider. Its your build so you need to do it your way. Great job so far.

[dsraven]

Another thought,
When I was doing my frame cut out front I got all concerned about where to cut it off etc. Finally I realized that setting the body on some ajustable stands, like you made for the frame, until I got the body squared up and sitting level with cab mounts built etc, allowed me to work free of those frame horns. After the body was where it needed to be then I built the front frame horns from the old frame section to match the rest of the frame and the bumper height, and then added the rad support mounts.
I cant remember the cab mounting on the AD trucks but my 57 originally sat metal to metal at the front, with a shim pack as required for body alignment, and on rubber pucks at the rear. It also had rubber pucks under the rad support on each side. Basically it was pretty tight on the frame. I'm just saying this because you may need to think of how the body will flex as a unit from the rear of the cab to the front rad support as this will affect the fender to body fitment, hood to body fitment etc. Im sure you are already thinking of that since you have done an S10 swap before. Just thought I would throw it in for others following along. You dont necesarily need to use a stock mounting system but keep in mind how it all needs to work together. I used stock envoy body mounts under the cab and a set of energy suspension urethane bushings under the rad support on each side, at frame width, just for lack of room in the area. The inner fenders are kind of part and parcel of the body rigidity as well because they will move with the fenders but you gotta cut off whatever you need to for clearance. I ran the suspension through a full bottoming out scenario and I cut mine too much on purpose because I plan to use the rubber or plastic splash guard idea when done.

[Thadious]

Lol! I wonder if you haven't been giving more thought to my project than I have!!!

I wanted to get the engine and trans dropped into it's cradle for the additional weight and see what the suspension geometry looks like. That extra 1000 pounds or so on the front chassis will certainly have an impact on that! Then I'll have a look at ride level and mounting the cab. I didn't have the forethought to lock the suspension in it's original height, so I'll have to make due for now. I don't think it will be a huge issue as long as I get the major weight loads on the frame (definitely different than the explorer was) and mocked up/mounted correctly. The one thing that does come to mind is that locking it with the explorer body on will net a minor difference than with the 47-52 bodies and one would need to be more concerned with the new body as that is the direction in the end, not the beginning... just a thought.

The back end will be a little interesting as I intend to remove a ring or two off of the coils to get about 2.5" out of them. After, fab up a set of "pucks" if you will from some pipe and plate to shove the entire strut down that 2.5" or so and get the towers from poking up quite as high. In the end, I'll pick up a set of drop springs to replace them and keep the spring tension where it should be. In the front, eventually and for mockup, I'll remove 2" or so to see where they sit, then I'll throw in a set of 2" drop springs to get that bit of forward rake. Anything else other than that for ride height may need to be by tire size and I'm hoping it won't be too big of a difference from there. I'd like to be about 8-10" off the ground from the boards just under the driver's door.

As for the rad support... it's nice enough that there is a power steering cooler on the explorer that mounts to the front cross member covering the rack and pinion steering. It provides two mounting holes in about the right spot to make a bracket for the original front rad mount. The rad mounting, right now is only about 2" forward from that bracket and it looks like it could be accomplished with just a piece of angle.

I cut off the front end of a 1 ton chassis (had two and this was the worst) to get the spacing and brackets for the front bumper. The intention, once the front body is on, is to align and graft this into the front frame horns on the explorer and provide a strong mount. The 1/2 tons used 1/4"x2" bent brackets, whereas these mount directly to the frame and I'm pretty sure I can make these not only work, but look good too.

[dsraven]

hope you had a great Christmas in the snow.
good progress. question, are that the tire diameter you settled on, no rubbing concerns when wheels are turned and a bump is encountered? huh, like there would be any bumps in Creston. lol.
love the shop space, gantry, lift, mill etc. jealous.

[Thadious]

Actually, it's been a bit weird for weather here... We've had 2 drops of about 3-4 each and both have melted off. With the exception of a bit of ice here and there, it was a brown Christmas where we live.

I've been experimenting a bit with tires and offsets....

Tires are 28" (225 width and I like the looks of them for a truck and not a low rider pavement queen. I don't expect to be offroading or anything like that, but I also want a little bit of clearance to still keep it a truck!

As for the rims, I have a set of Ford mustang rims (the shiny chrome ones) and a set of Dodge rim (the silver ones) and have been looking at how the offsets are going to work out, but without the motor and trans in it, at the moment, I don't get the IFS settled out to see how the offset and steering will be in proximity to the front fenders. The Ford offsets that I have tuck a little nicer and will be my starting point for the front, but I want less offset in the rear to get the tires to come a bit closer to the rear fenders... they still tuck about 1" too far for my liking but do have nice clearance to the box... so maybe a little less offset and a wider rear, for traction!