Intake & Carb Install

[Squareforceone]

Hey not to thread jack but i'm getting ready to put a new engine in my 84 and want to use a carter afb (basically like a 1406) i have laying around with an aftermarket intake. Anyways what are you guys using for hooking up the throttle cable. I'm worried it'll be different i'm also really nervous because i have 700r4 and don't want to **** up the tv cable adjustment...

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by Squareforceone

Hey not to thread jack but i'm getting ready to put a new engine in my 84 and want to use a carter afb (basically like a 1406) i have laying around with an aftermarket intake. Anyways what are you guys using for hooking up the throttle cable. I'm worried it'll be different i'm also really nervous because i have 700r4 and don't want to **** up the tv cable adjustment...

It's all good your not thread jacking, once I get there I will be more than happy to put up how I did it, but from what I could tell is you just take the stock throttle linkage/cable and you should have like a little nipple that it should just clip onto and done. At least that's how mine seems like it's going to go.

[77ChevySharkBite]

I'm one more step closer to it being installed now my question is the original throttle linkage bolt wont fit in the hole on the carb but the new one they sent won't fit in the old clip so if I just ran the the new bolt and tightened it down would I be fine running it that way?

[izzy_Britton]

That is how i did it.

but i also used the 700r4 kickdown bracket and the cruise control bracket too.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Ahhh okay thanks Izzy! Yeah I don't have cruise control or a 700r4 so can't use either of those brackets

[izzy_Britton]

crappy photos but you can see that i used the old post thing and the old clip. i believe i had to drill out mine to fit tho.

-Izzy

[izzy_Britton]

then i would think a washer and nut to hold it in place would work just fine. make sure it is tight. the worst that i think would happen would be that the throttle response might be sloppy should the ball end thing shift at all. but it aint gonna move more than a hair or two.

-Izzy

[77ChevySharkBite]

Getting closer I just hooked up my throttle linkage back, but when I actually push my throttle all the way back it's like my secondaries don't open up all the way here's the picture is this supposed to be how it looks?

[izzy_Britton]

yep!

you're secondaries will open under power as they are vacuum operated... there is a big weight attached tothe driver side of the butterfly, openyour throttle by hand and push on the secondary butterfly and youwill see what I mean.

just for clarification, the front most butterfly in your picture, the onemust being the eddy logo... that is your choke butterfly.

CHOKE

-izzy

[77ChevySharkBite]

Great thanks Izzy yeah, I know exactly what you're talking about just wanted to make sure the way it was opening was correct. So thanks a bunch Izzy almost done!

[geezer#99]

Sorry Izzy!!
THey're not vacuum operated. They're air flow operated. When the secondary blades open a low pressure area is created below the weighted door. THe high pressure air above the door flows down to the newly created low pressure area and pushes the door open. There's a weight on both sides by the way.

[izzy_Britton]

Geezer, you are quite right! i also knew i was gonna get flack for putting it as i did. my apologies, I was away from home, i pulled over on the side of the road to snap a quick photo on my cell phone as an example and quick explanation, and didnt really feel the need to go into great detail while driving, so i put it as i did. vacuum secondaries was much easier to explain in that instance and to understand (not knowing the OP's knowledge of such things) than, say, the more air your engine consumes or requires creates a low pressure point below a weighted flap door causing the door to be forced open by the increase of air flowing past it. besides, a low pressure area is essentially a vacuum, I am just being a smart ass.


thanks for the correction Geezer. It really is appreciated. some others who may not know the difference in this exact situation will find this info helpful. I know i sure could have used the info now found in this thread back in june when i was having issues with my truck. i finally got around to changing my carb in late july or august and had to enlist the help of my younger brother (the motor head) because i felt somewhat unsure that i was doing it correctly.

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Sorry Izzy!!
THey're not vacuum operated. They're air flow operated. When the secondary blades open a low pressure area is created below the weighted door. THe high pressure air above the door flows down to the newly created low pressure area and pushes the door open. There's a weight on both sides by the way.

-Izzy

[geezer#99]

A lot of eddy carbs that have the built in stumble when the secondary air valve opens too slow can be modified by removing a bit of material off the counter weights. Not an operation for the faint of heart though! Too much grinding and you can't easily add it back on. Been there, done that but I had a half dozen carbs to learn/experiment with.

[izzy_Britton]

You are one of the lucky ones. I have always been the brave one to attempt a mod such as that and been unlucky enough to not have a spare. I am learning to change my ways by always having a spare when i screw up but that is much more time consuming and expensive than i like it to be. lol

my truck has that built in stumble, but i am not sure if it is because of the carb maybe being too rich or a timing issue, or both, and i just havent had the time as of late to look into it. i believe (but honestly dont know) that part of the problem with my truck running as it does, as well as a (newly started since carb install) smoke at start time, is because of the carb being too rich.

I found a 'spare' 1406 for 50$ that just needs a rebuild. I MIGHT experiment with that one while it is apart. I really dont need a hot rod, just a dependable runner that gets decent fuel mileage.

-Izzy

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by izzy_Britton

You are one of the lucky ones. I have always been the brave one to attempt a mod such as that and been unlucky enough to not have a spare. I am learning to change my ways by always having a spare when i screw up but that is much more time consuming and expensive than i like it to be. lol

my truck has that built in stumble, but i am not sure if it is because of the carb maybe being too rich or a timing issue, or both, and i just havent had the time as of late to look into it. i believe (but honestly dont know) that part of the problem with my truck running as it does, as well as a (newly started since carb install) smoke at start time, is because of the carb being too rich.

I found a 'spare' 1406 for 50$ that just needs a rebuild. I MIGHT experiment with that one while it is apart. I really dont need a hot rod, just a dependable runner that gets decent fuel mileage.

-Izzy

Maybe you should try a cheap inline fuel regulator to see if it helps with the smoke on start up.
http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...2517/overview/

[izzy_Britton]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Maybe you should try a cheap inline fuel regulator to see if it helps with the smoke on start up.
http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...2517/overview/

I might give that a whirl. I suspect the issue with smoking upon start-up is either timing because i didnt get the distributor locked down very tight after timing it, or it is running rich because i have only tuned it the one time the day i installed the carb and it had only been run for a total of about 10 minutes to that point. or 3rd and the one problem i fear, is that while the carb was off i changed out the valve cover gaskets which were baked on and came off in very small parts and i had to use the shop vac with a gasket scrapper, some of the small bits made it into the motor (as i found more than a few gasket parts in the oil filter). I fear that either a very small bit has/had blocked an oil passage and maybe starved a small part of oil causing a breakdown or a place where oil can get into the combustion chamber, OR that some of those small bits have scared the valve seals (?) the rubber seal on the upper side of the head under the valve spring, causing an oil leak.

I have been quoted 250$ to rebuild the heads with valve job and resurfacing, i am gonna go this route AFTER i attempt to change those valve seals without removing the heads, if that fails then off to the motor shop the heads will go.

@SharkBite: sounds like the choke flapper was holing you up and you got it squared away. when will you get it running? curious to hear when you get it done.

-Izzy

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by izzy_Britton

@SharkBite: sounds like the choke flapper was holing you up and you got it squared away. when will you get it running? curious to hear when you get it done.

-Izzy

I was planning to have it running today but I really need my buddies timing light, so have to work around him going to try and get him over here late tonight or tomorrow try to get it running, cause I'm ready to hear it rumble as much as you guys are!

[77ChevySharkBite]

Well maybe it is the weight, but when I have the throttle pushed as far as it will go it does like the picture shown above but the "piece" it sits on when at full throttle if I push that it will open the secondaries all the way.

I guess my question is, is my carb done correctly and that once it's under power it'll open fully as needed?

[geezer#99]

It will open as needed.
Second thought!
You need to hold the choke plate wide open while you check to see if the secondary throttle plate opens fully. While the choke is engaged there's a secondary lock out on the drivers side that prevents the secondaries from opening if the choke is on.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

It will open as needed.
Second thought!
You need to hold the choke plate wide open while you check to see if the secondary throttle plate opens fully. While the choke is engaged there's a secondary lock out on the drivers side that prevents the secondaries from opening if the choke is on.

Great!!! Just wanted to make sure I understood it correct.

Thanks geezer#99 you and Izzy have been great help and I'm forever grateful!

I believe I was messing with the lock out because when I push that back it'll open all the way no problems.

[77ChevySharkBite]

So tell me if I'm the only one with this problem here getting really discouraged with how long this has taken to do a simple swap, last night put on the throttle cable bracket well what has happened is it kinks the throttle cable cause the pedal to be hard to push down. Now tell me what my solutions are? Because we took rough measurements and the intake and carb only sit back about 1" further than the original and that's what is causing this whole problem so any ideas fellas? Or do I just need to bite the bullet and go buy a new cable?

[geezer#99]

Or just take a pic of what you got set up know!

[77ChevySharkBite]

Well it's the same as above the only thing that differs is that I'm trying to use the stock throttle bracket, I can kick myself in the butt right now because I didn't take any pictures.

I would take a picture but I'm currently not home.

[geezer#99]

I guess you'll need better pics cause none of those help.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Yeah when I get home tonight, I'll snap a few for you guys someone is suggesting for me to get an adjustable throttle bracket cable?

The kink in the cable is minor me and my buddy that was helping me last night was saying that if 1" overall we could take off it would be fine. I'm think maybe the adjustable throttle bracket might be the solution.