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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 6,370
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
Removing the front drums will expose the Input planetary & Reaction Sun shell.
NOTICE. If there is a plastic Thrust Washer on top of the Input planet, The Unit has a (small) early Forward Sprag assembly, IF you upgrade to a '87 & later Sprag assembly....DO NOT install this Thrust Washer upon assembly. If the Input Sun gear is left behind in the Input planet, Remove it. Later (90's)units have the input sun gear "snap-fitted" to the sprag assembly. Remove the Yellow snap ring (pic), Pull the Output shaft out the rear of the case. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 6,370
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
Input Sun Gear still in the planet upon disassembly....If you have a Early or Mid-Year forward sprag assembly.
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Clearfield Utah
Posts: 638
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
That's a good idea. I'll try to catch up later.
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My build thread. 1977 C10 short box. >>>> http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=624182 700R4 build thread. >>> http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...36#post6740236 |
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#4 |
1965 Chevy C10, 2005 4.8L/4l60
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: DFW Texas
Posts: 8,543
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
Chris, I am impressed with your pictures/diagrams with arrows and everything!
or....did your daughter do this for you???? Ok, Im sorry, I just couldnt help myself!
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Clyde65 Rebuild of Clyde http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...84#post8338184 69 Aristocrat Lo Liner build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...84#post7561684 ![]() ![]() ![]() support our troops! |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Clearfield Utah
Posts: 638
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
After you take us through the initial rebuild, can you talk about shift modifications?
I found this video, but I'd like your opinion on shift kit upgrades. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2B8nyfrFKyo
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My build thread. 1977 C10 short box. >>>> http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=624182 700R4 build thread. >>> http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...36#post6740236 |
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#6 | ||
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 6,370
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
Quote:
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Clearfield Utah
Posts: 638
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
Cool. Although I won't be doing any racing (To damn old) I know others would like to beef up the trans for racing and towing. From what I understand, which isn't much, faster/harder shifts actually prevent clutch slipping and helps transmission life. Am I on the right track here?
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My build thread. 1977 C10 short box. >>>> http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=624182 700R4 build thread. >>> http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...36#post6740236 |
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#8 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 6,370
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
Quote:
![]() The Line Bias valve is used to match the Line Pressure Rise to the Torque Rise of the engine as a Variable Bleed & as a Safety Blow-off if the TV valve sticks. The TV Boost valve size controls overall clutch line pressure in proportion to TV valve movement. I guess its a short cut around actually tuning the line bias in with heavier spring/s to match. What sky high line pressure does to a 2-4 band at a WOT 1-2 shift behind a ZZ430..... |
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#9 |
chevy runs deep
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: PHOENIX AZ
Posts: 1,074
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
Subscribed
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RAIDER NATION 1969 c10 swb soon 2 b on the road... My LWB is a SWB now ![]() http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=498241 |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 6,370
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
Now you will be looking at the Low/Reverse return spring assembly & Piston.
Compress the Return spring cage, Remove Snap Ring, Remove Return spring assembly. Pics 1 & 2 show the spring compressor tool & usage, You can make a tool similar. Or Youtube/Google. |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 6,370
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
Apply air to the Reverse feed hole, The Low/Reverse piston will pop up, Remove piston.
These are 4L60E pics, 700R4 is very similar. |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 6,370
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
Now that the case is bare, Clean the case thoroughly, Having it ran through parts washer is a good idea. Remove the 2 thimble filters from the case. 1 at the rear of the case (Governor feed) & one toward the front (TCC solenoid feed), Before cleaning
Time to leak check the 3rd Accumulator check ball assembly, It is absolutely critical to check this, If it is leaking it will only be a matter of time before the 3/4 clutches burn down. The valve body face needs to be pointing straight up. Install 2/4 servo assembly in servo bore. Install servo cover and retainer, then pour a suitable solvent into the accumulator bore. Observe for leakage inside case. *Pic. If leakage is observed, replace 3rd accumulator retainer and ball assembly. Remove 3rd accumulator retainer and ball assembly using a number 4 screw extractor. Install new check ball assembly, small end first into case, positioning oil feed slot in sleeve facing servo cover. Using suitable tool, drive check valve assembly until seated in case. To ensure correct installation depth, scribe a mark at 1.653 inch on a 3/8 inch diameter metal rod, then seat the 3rd accumulator and ball assembly as shown. When the scribed line is flush with the case, Installation depth is correct. The AC-Delco part# is 8634400 if new check ball assembly is needed. Red arrow is the 3rd accum. exhaust port, It the valve is leaking...Solvent will leak out here. The white arrow is the Bleed orifice...Solvent will leak here...Normal condition. |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 6,370
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
Replace the rear Case Bushing, Knock it out from the rear of case, Install from the front, Not that 700R4's are bad about Case Bushing walk-out like a TH400/4L80E. But procedure is procedure. I use my camshaft bearing installer handle to drive the Bushing Installer & Bushing. I use a Seal/Bearing tool to drive it out.
If ever in doubt, Measure the depth of the Bushing before removal. Didn't get a pic of my installer, But how many people have a Cam Bearing knocker handle? |
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#14 | ||
"I ain't nobody, dork."
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Whidbey Island, Washington
Posts: 8,943
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
This thread is sick... Thanks for everything you contribute cline my friend!
Hope the OP gets the working on his rig problem worked out soon. ![]() Gary
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'cuz chicks dig scars... My 1972 GMC 1500 Super Custom (Creeping Death) "long term" build thread. The Rebuild of Creeping Death after the wreck Quote:
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 6,370
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
You will need a good air blower with a good rubber tip. Air pressure 40 to 60 psi.
Pressurize the Forward Clutch Feed. The Forwards will apply. The 3-4 Clutches SHOULD NOT move, Observe the Apply Cage & 3-4 pressure plate for movement though the holes in the Input Drum. ***'87-'93 4L60 Builders, Hold your finger over the hole directly under the Forward feed hole in the pic, On the side of the pump, This is the Forward Accumulator Feed*** Pressurize the 3-4 Clutch Feed, 3-4 Clutches will apply, The Overrun Clutches SHOULD NOT apply, Confirm this by Overrunning the Input Sun Gear counter clockwise by hand, Have another hold the drum stationary if needed. (The Input Sun Gear is the gear in the middle of the Input drum in the previous pic) Pressure the Reverse Feed, Listen for gross leakage. |
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 6,370
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
If any of the above air test fail, Let me know & I will help, Explaining all that would take pages.
Remove the Input Drum from the Reverse Input Drum/Front pump by pulling straight up with the Assembly is still upside down. Place the Input Drum in a parts washer or Drain pan with the Input shaft pointing up, Fill the top cavity with Solvent, Plug the Bleed Orifice with your finger. Pressurize the 3-4 Clutch feed hole between the 2 bottom sealing rings. If there is a leak between the Input shaft & Input Drum.....Stop, You need a new Input Drum!!! Check for 3-4 Check ball Capsule for leakage, Replace this Capsule 100%!!! |
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 6,370
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
Continued.. You can't see the Bleed Orifice through the solvent.
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 6,370
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
Finally time to disassemble the Input Drum.
Hole saw a hole in your work bench to stick the Input shaft through so you can work on the drum. Start with removing the 3-4 snap ring from the Drum, Grab the Apply plate at the bottom of the 3-4 stack, Stack upside down out of the way with the 5 Release springs that fall out of the drum & Snap ring. Remove the Forward Clutch Snap ring (This snap ring is Stout). Turn the drum over & The Forward Clutch stack, Forward Sprag Assembly, Overrun Clutches, & Sprag Torrington bearing will fall out of the drum. |
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#19 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Alberta Canada
Posts: 93
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
Quote:
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 6,370
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
Replace the 2 Stator Support Sealing Rings & retest.
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#21 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Clearfield Utah
Posts: 638
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
Of the three, which Sunshell would you recommend?
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My build thread. 1977 C10 short box. >>>> http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=624182 700R4 build thread. >>> http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...36#post6740236 |
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#22 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Lewisville, Nc
Posts: 10,234
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
Sonnax Smart-Shell ive read the beast sun shells sometimes have problems
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David fuller Ase Certified Mechanic Click here to help support our board!! 1971 Chevy c-10 under going a 4.8l LSx swap Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=421305 2007 Honda Accord my daily 145kmiles 2002 Honda Accord 4 door With 330k(sisters car) 2005 toyota Avalon 228k( brothers car) 2002 Sububran 5.3 245k 2000 Tahoe 5.3l 378 General manager for Marco's Carwash & lube |
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#23 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 6,370
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
Quote:
The Stock Delco Sunshell is Fine for under 350 ft/lbs, It was updated a few times & alot better than they used to be (Softer material to prevent breakage), The stuff you read on the internet is from problems 20 years ago. The Delco shell has 1 Achilles Heel, The Splines can Strip if to much torque is applied. Or towing heavy through hilly terrain....Constant 2-3, 3-2, 2-3, 3-2 can wear the splines, But other things wear as well under these conditions, The pic is a 3-4 clutch plate from a 4.8L/4L60E truck that tows through Colorado a lot, I rebuilt it about 60,000 miles ago, The Sunshell stripped, But look at the internal tangs on the Clutch plate....Almost worn off!! Point is the Stock shell will last as long as the rest of the Trans IF not over torqued. The Sonnax Sunshell is actually a reinforced stock shell, A plate is welded around the splined to stop deformation, The reverse input drive lugs are heat treated. A Torrington bearing is added to keep thrust load off the Reaction Planet Torrington. This is a very nice piece, & if funds allow....Highly recommended. |
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#24 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 6,370
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
OK, Your trans should look like this, Ready for the Reaction Tube/Shaft, & 3-4 Clutch Hub/Input Planet Annulus gear.
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#25 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 6,370
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Re: 700R4 build thread.
**If your reusing the Reaction shaft (with a Flat bottom), Place the Brass 4 tang thrust washer on the SunShell, Use TransJel to stick it to the Shell.
**If using an Updated 4L60E Reaction Shaft, Soak the Torrington in ATF, Stick the bearing to the Reaction Shaft......The Delco Shell kit comes with a Shell, Shell to reaction shaft Torrington bearing, Reaction Shaft, & Input planet to reaction shaft Torrington bearing. **If you are using a Beast or Sonnax Shell, You can still "rollerize" the Reaction Shaft, You need a Reaction Shaft & BOTH Torrington bearings from GM. **NOTE** DO NOT use the Input Planet to Reaction Shaft Torrington from the bearing kit if you get a Reaction Shaft from GM, It was revised in '07/'08. |
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