Porterbuilt Stage 1 Front and Rear Kit Chart

[N2TRUX]

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[JointTech]

awesome info. thanks for taking the time to do it.

[68chvy]

question... how much did you spend? And it is bags right? stock arms? thanksfortheinfo!
Wellbedoingthesame once income tax money comes lol

[Dano69c10]

According to the chart;

If I get the Stage 1 (f/r) w/ stock spindles and a-arms, then I will still be riding at about stock height?

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by Dano69c10

According to the chart;

If I get the Stage 1 (f/r) w/ stock spindles and a-arms, then I will still be riding at about stock height?

Correct. By swapping the steel spring with an air spring (everything else staying consistent) the "ride height change" could be minimal if even noticeable.

However, there will be some lea-way with the adjustability the air spring offers, but additional drop would achieved with a drop spindle and or tubular lower control arm.

It's always hard to define where "ride height" actually is when running an air suspension, as it can change with the air bag being inflated or deflated. Some like more pressure for a little firmer ride others like less for a softer ride. It's all based on preference.

In this case, for discussion purposes, it won't change much.

[MattPSU]

Originally Posted by 68chvy

question... how much did you spend? And it is bags right? stock arms? thanksfortheinfo!
Wellbedoingthesame once income tax money comes lol

Correct - Bags.

Here's a basic rundown of what all I bought. Keep in mind, I also bought some tools (step bits, saw blades, cutting discs, etc.) and paint to complete the job. I made each item listed a link so you could see/read more.

Porterbuilt Stage 1 Front Kit - $365.00
Porterbuilt Stage 1 Rear Kit - $365.00
Porterbuilt Bolt In Notch - $249.00
Porterbuilt Adjustable Trac Bar - $149.00
McGaughy's 2.5" Drop Spindles - $242.00
2 - Pro Performance 1/4" Manual Schrader Valve Kit - $39.00 each

Total - $1448.00 plus shipping

If I were to do it again, I'd do this:

Porterbuilt Stage 1 Front Kit - $365.00
Porterbuilt Stage 2 Rear Kit - $799.00
McGaughy's 2.5" Drop Spindles - $242.00
2 - Pro Performance 1/4" Manual Schrader Valve Kit - $39.00 each

Total - $1484.00 plus shipping. For $36 more you'll have the stage 2 shock bar system which I'm guessing is easily worth the difference.

- Matt

[68chvy]

Originally Posted by MattPSU

Correct - Bags.

Here's a basic rundown of what all I bought. Keep in mind, I also bought some tools (step bits, saw blades, cutting discs, etc.) and paint to complete the job. I made each item listed a link so you could see/read more.

Porterbuilt Stage 1 Front Kit - $365.00
Porterbuilt Stage 1 Rear Kit - $365.00
Porterbuilt Bolt In Notch - $249.00
Porterbuilt Adjustable Trac Bar - $149.00
McGaughy's 2.5" Drop Spindles - $242.00
2 - Pro Performance 1/4" Manual Schrader Valve Kit - $39.00 each

Total - $1448.00 plus shipping

If I were to do it again, I'd do this:

Porterbuilt Stage 1 Front Kit - $365.00
Porterbuilt Stage 2 Rear Kit - $799.00
McGaughy's 2.5" Drop Spindles - $242.00
2 - Pro Performance 1/4" Manual Schrader Valve Kit - $39.00 each

Total - $1484.00 plus shipping. For $36 more you'll have the stage 2 shock bar system which I'm guessing is easily worth the difference.

- Matt

thanks man, im sure this is the route I am going to go.. thanks again..

[MattPSU]

Originally Posted by Dano69c10

According to the chart;

If I get the Stage 1 (f/r) w/ stock spindles and a-arms, then I will still be riding at about stock height?

Nate already confirmed this but I'll add that the ride quality is greatly improved over the jarring, bouncy ride on the stock springs & shocks. I had never even ridden in a bagged truck/car before I did this and wasn't sure if I'd be happy. I can't believe I ever even had a doubt about it.

[Dano69c10]

Originally Posted by MattPSU

Nate already confirmed this but I'll add that the ride quality is greatly improved over the jarring, bouncy ride on the stock springs & shocks. I had never even ridden in a bagged truck/car before I did this and wasn't sure if I'd be happy. I can't believe I ever even had a doubt about it.

I want to stay about stock height, but was wondering if I do want to adjust the stance;
Are there air bags that are shorter in order to maintain air pressure, but lower the ride?

Dano

[Dano69c10]

Originally Posted by Dano69c10

I want to stay about stock height, but was wondering if I do want to adjust the stance;
Are there air bags that are shorter in order to maintain air pressure, but lower the ride?

Dano

Any 1? ?????

[MattPSU]

Originally Posted by Dano69c10

I want to stay about stock height, but was wondering if I do want to adjust the stance;
Are there air bags that are shorter in order to maintain air pressure, but lower the ride?

Dano

I'm not sure about shorter bags. I'll let Travis, Nate or someone else who knows answer that question.

After I did the Stage 1 kits, I decided that I wanted to have a lower ride height too which is why I added the drop spindles and notch. I also removed the upper cups in the rear. Never thought about shorter bags, but removing those cups does make the bag shorter.

Changing the pressure changes the height as desired. These kits give about 6-8" of adjust-ability. Of course you don't want to run at 0 psi or at full pressure.

Personally, I like the fact that I have a nice ride with a slightly lowered stance and I can let the air out when I get to my destination and appear to have a super low truck. I had an S10 that was statically dropped a good bit, and it looked cool, but rode like crap. My C10 rides great AND has the desired look when parked.

Not sure if that answered your question or not. - Matt

[68chvy]

is there a switch to disinflate bags?

[68chvy]

Nd how do you get it back.up?

[MattPSU]

Eventually I'll have compressors, tanks and Accuair controls. But for now I have all the lines running to the cab where I've mounted a small gauge and schrader valve for each bag. I use the compressor in my garage to air the bags up and I just use my fingers to release the schrader valves to lower it. I have a 9 gallon tank that I keep in the bed when I drive it somewhere. This gives me the ability to air the bags up from empty one time. I also carry a small compressor that I can plug into the cig lighter if need be.

[68chvy]

cool

[68chvy]

you have a link of what you would need like what controls and compressor I.would.need.. I plan on doing.this drop soon so gathering my parts list.. thnx again.on.info

[MattPSU]

Originally Posted by 68chvy

you have a link of what you would need like what controls and compressor I.would.need.. I plan on doing.this drop soon so gathering my parts list.. thnx again.on.info

http://www.azproperformance.com/Air-Management-Kits/

Here's a link to the air management systems that Pro Performance offers. The Manual, Pro 1 and Pro 2 kits are nice in that they include everything you'll need. I'm sure you could piece one together, but these kits will have all the wiring, fittings, air line, etc. that you'll need.

I highly recommend that you call Travis at Pro Performance and tell him what all you're looking for. He'll help you put together everything so that you don't miss anything. If you want to do some variation on one of these kits (two tanks rather than one for example), he'll create a package to meet your needs/goals.

If you need more help, let me know. If you want my number/email, let me know and I'll PM you with that info.

BTW - just checked out your truck. Very nice. You guys and your LS swaps have me thinking that may be my power plant route when I get to that point.

Thanks - Matt

[Desert.Chevy]

Good info, Thanks. Truck looks good too.

[c10Dream'n]

That was one heck of a write up. thanks for the visual. I have made up my mind and plan on piecing mine together since i won't be able to drop all the cash at once on the whole set-up.

My setup currently consists of CPP tubular control arms, ECE 4/6 kit wit 1" blocks in the rear. I have a CPP bolt in notch as well. I will have to talk to Nate or Travis bout my options.

Matt,
do you know what the difference is between having a 3 or 5 gallon tank? along with having 1 or 2 compressors? Thanks again.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by c10Dream'n

That was one heck of a write up. thanks for the visual. I have made up my mind and plan on piecing mine together since i won't be able to drop all the cash at once on the whole set-up.

My setup currently consists of CPP tubular control arms, ECE 4/6 kit wit 1" blocks in the rear. I have a CPP bolt in notch as well. I will have to talk to Nate or Travis bout my options.

Matt,
do you know what the difference is between having a 3 or 5 gallon tank? along with having 1 or 2 compressors? Thanks again.

We recommend running 2 compressors if you go to a 5 gallon tank. One compressor per 3 gallon tank also works well. We make some neat brackets that mount a compressor and a 3 gallon tank to the frame rail.

[MattPSU]

Originally Posted by c10Dream'n

That was one heck of a write up. thanks for the visual. I have made up my mind and plan on piecing mine together since i won't be able to drop all the cash at once on the whole set-up.

My setup currently consists of CPP tubular control arms, ECE 4/6 kit wit 1" blocks in the rear. I have a CPP bolt in notch as well. I will have to talk to Nate or Travis bout my options.

Matt,
do you know what the difference is between having a 3 or 5 gallon tank? along with having 1 or 2 compressors? Thanks again.

Piecing it together is exactly what I did. It's taken a year and a half, but I'm happy with the results.

I would recommend talking to Nate and/or Travis about which components you can use with your current set-up. I think you're ok, but I'd check just to be sure.

My understanding on the compressors/tanks issue is pretty simple. The more compressor out you have, whether it's one or two, the faster you can fill your tanks. The more tank space you have, the longer it'll take to fill. But, the more tank space you have, the quicker you can raise your truck back up. I've been told that if you're not planning on playing around much, and you're never going to be in a hurry, you can get away with a smaller compressor and/or tank. But if you want to play and/or have a quicker response time, larger and/or multiple compressors and tanks are recommended.

The way I see it is that it seems like no matter what I do, I always want more! I lowered it some, then I wanted it lower. So with tanks and compressors, I'm was initially thinking I wouldn't play much, but when I let the air out of the bags using the schrader valves now, everyone watching smiles. I know I'll want to play at least a little, so duel tanks and compressors will be the route I go. And I'll mount them using the Porterbuilt brackets above. One of each on each side.

Good luck - Matt

[c10Dream'n]

Thanks for your point of view Matt. I to like the set-up they provide with the bracket for compressor and tank. DECISIONS DECISIONS!!!!!!!!!

[chevjayfsd]

I agree Matt... Being able to pull up to grab some milk for the kids and airing it out while you run in, with people looking at your truck and hearing it, is an awesome experience... lol.

[King Cary]

Thanks for the chart Matt... Awesome lay out for everyone to use as a comparison when building their trucks... I see you're in Lyman S.C., I'm originally from Columbia.

[MattPSU]

Originally Posted by MRWGN

Just wondering how much lower (if any) having tubular control arms would make it?

I ask because the way the bag mounting happens with the stage 1 kit it brings the mounting surface flush with arm and not recessed into the cup.

Would a set of porterbuilt tubular arms/CPP arms in standard form change those dimensions and make it lower again in the front?

No idea. Maybe Travis or one of the Porterbuilt guys will chime in and let us know. If they send me a set, I'll install them and take some pictures, too!

Originally Posted by King Cary

Thanks for the chart Matt... Awesome lay out for everyone to use as a comparison when building their trucks... I see you're in Lyman S.C., I'm originally from Columbia.

You're welcome. Small world!