Converting factory AC to use R134a

[Davidf]

I am definitely going back to R12. I looked over my new to me truck last night and the condenser is not original and much larger than stock. In fact, it is jammed under the hood latch plate and bent into a curve to fit. That ugly duckling is coming out. Now I am in the market for an R12 condenser if someone that converted to R134a has one lying around (and doesn't leak of course )

Also, to the person asking about Old Air recommendations, I am sure you cant go wrong if you follow their advice. Good luck.

[coppertone]

Got my cross flow condenser from AMERICAN Radiator part #9011239. This one fits but of course you have to use the mounting hardware to install.

[hdff]

where did you get your American radiator? and do you have a pic of it installed???? how do you like it I assume you went 134

[davischevy]

Both my trucks are running 134a with all factory components, with the POA valve recalibrated.

The systems were flushed before the change over.

Larry

[coppertone]

I contacted American Radiator and gave them the measurements. My truck had stock ac,but when my compressor gave out I decided to update the system. Installed evaporator update kit, pro6ten compressor, orifice tube, drier and new cross flow condenser. Just haven't charged it yet. The only part I going to reuse are the hoses.

[kwmech]

Originally Posted by coppertone

Got my cross flow condenser from AMERICAN Radiator part #9011239. This one fits but of course you have to use the mounting hardware to install.

Do you happen to have the measurements on the core size?

[coppertone]

The measurements are 25x14. I measured it from the outside of the tanks not the core itself.

[1972RedNeck]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

134 will leak out of the front seal on a rebuilt stock (A6) compressor eventually.

I have had the same problem. A lot of out farm equipment has A6 compressors and I have found that the only reman A6 that will last is John Deere's. Everything else will fail within a year. John Deere's A6 (rebuilt right here in the states) will last.

[hdff]

Www.Americanradiator.us Is this where you got it?

[coppertone]

It's americanradiator.us I still have the box with the address.
American Radiator
1616 NE Broadway Ave.
Des Moines Ia, 50316
(515)265-8818

[hdff]

Originally Posted by coppertone

It's americanradiator.us I still have the box with the address.
American Radiator
1616 NE Broadway Ave.
Des Moines Ia, 50316
(515)265-8818

Thanks. I getting my thoughts together before starting this project. If you have a chance could you post up a couple of pics of it. Visuals are great for me. Thanks. Keith

[coppertone]

I'll try to take some pics as soon as I have a chance.

[Davidf]

Originally Posted by CUSTOM/10

How much oil should be put into the system once it has been flushed of the old oil ?

Gary

A6 compressor needs 10-11 ounces of PAG 150 (R134a) oil.

[CUSTOM/10]

Thanks David, but I have a Sanden 508, you don't happen to know how much that would take ?

Thanks, Gary

[Bigdav160]

I think you'd be safe with 7-8 ounces. Make sure you're using new barrier hoses as the 134a and PAG will slowly ruin the older style hose.

[Davidf]

My information says a Sanden 508 needs 5.5-6 ounces of PAG 100 oil.

What I have read is that the mineral oil used in R12 systems impregnates the rubber (hoses) and thus prevents the R134a molecules from leaking through (thus barrier hoses not required). I have not heard that PAG oil attacks the rubber hoses.

With all that said, you cannot go wrong in replacing or having the hoses rebuilt with barrier hoses.

[CUSTOM/10]

Thanks David !!!

The hoses will all be new, and correct for R134A...

Gary

[jimbosprint]

My Old Air Products order arrived today. New compressor, condenser (not pictured), drier, POA update, and tubes/hoses. Now I just need some time to work on it.

[71meangreenc10]

I converted mine to 134 and here are the part numbers in the write up. I got a Sanden compressor for the Serp Set Up and had an Orfice Tube ran, new lines made, put a pusher fan on the old condensor and wired it into the electric fan circuit relay. Been running it for over three years with no problems. Everthing inside is the same, everything outside is a little modified...Gets to about 40 degrees in the cab. Used it in NC with ridiculous humidity and high 90's.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=468729

Smitty

[Davidf]

FWIW, POA update,is a POS in my oppinion. Stay with the genuine POA AND ADJUSTMTO 26 psi. Test rig is easy to fabricate. I tested my original POA and is fine. Calibrated to 29.5 psi for R-12. Next chance imget, the POA update is coming out in favor of the POA.

[ss454conv]

I did the 134 POA adjustment to 26 PSI on my 70 Chevelle and installed a brand new GM compressor along with drier, seals, and hoses (not a reman) and it worked great the entire time I was running it. Prior to that I had the tube. It constantly cycled and cooling would instantly stop when it kicked off. I would avoid the tube if possible. Just my experience.

[72 K20]

Hello !! I have a 72 C20 that I am going to install a serpentine set-up from a 95 chevy pickup.
I understand that I need to change out the receiver/dryer. I bought the cycling P O A valve for 134
http://www.classicparts.com/1967-72-.../#.VW5tfGfbJLM

Can I run the same compressor that was on the 95 chevy in my 72 with 134 ?

I will have to get hoses made to fit the newer compressor if I can run that compressor.

Thank you in advance for any and all help and advice !!! Tom

[Andy4639]

Call these guy's they know there AC stuff and have kits for our trucks. I had their system for over 10 years with no problems.

http://www.classicautoair.com/

[Davidf]

Originally Posted by ss454conv

I did the 134 POA adjustment to 26 PSI on my 70 Chevelle and installed a brand new GM compressor along with drier, seals, and hoses (not a reman) and it worked great the entire time I was running it. Prior to that I had the tube. It constantly cycled and cooling would instantly stop when it kicked off. I would avoid the tube if possible. Just my experience.

Yep, I have the same experience with the POA update/tube. It is terrible and definitely NOT something anyone should install. Don't waste your money. If you don't have a POA, they are available on Ebay. If yours doesn't work, it can be rebuilt (again check Ebay) or get a used replacement. I am just ticked that I wasted so much R12.

BTW, sorry about the terrible previous post by me...did it on my phone.

[davepl]

Originally Posted by engineer_gregh

David you are correct on the receiver dryer. Any time the lines are open I would replace the receiver dryer, its only about $20 and can prevent hundreds of dollars and frustration by skipping that step.

Honestly if you have a pump you can just pull a vacuum on it and it'll dry it out like new. In a near-vacuum moisture just can't hang on, even to the desiccant in there. Point taken that they're cheap insurance though.

I have a couple of questions if someone could address them:

- Would an AC shop need to pull apart under my dash, or in the heater core area that would require pulling a fender? I have brand new paint. It looks like the inboard section of the underhood HVAC box comes off. But are all the parts in there?

- When I buy a new pump and dryer from LMC, as I did, it has some oil in it. Would that be the old style or new? I poured it out but did not flush it.

Just a reminder - this thread is (or was supposed to be) about converting factory air, not replacing it with aftermarket serpentine chrome modern pumps or Vintage air.