restoring bolts - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Truckstr · 10-04-2007, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thealien

If you want to do black oxide check the firearms boards. I refinsh firearms and if I want to get e real dark parkerising I black oxide finish it first. It is pretty easy and is the same black coating you see on impact sockets. IIRC I got my chemicals from caswell plating but there are many other places.

Ya know, I never thought about that.

I have some cold bluing that I used on an old .22 rifle a long time ago. Good idea!

Thealien · 10-04-2007, 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Truckstr

Ya know, I never thought about that.

I have some cold bluing that I used on an old .22 rifle a long time ago. Good idea!

Black oxide and cold blue are two different chemicals/processes. I have never done cold blue so I am unsure of the rust preventing properties. I know black oxide works fairly well. If you do blue them post some pics please.

Truckstr · 10-04-2007, 02:48 PM

Like I said, I did the cold bluing on an old .22 rifle a long time ago. It turned out okay. It really turned out more black oxide looking than it did "gun blue".

I have been working on bolts, nuts and washers for my '67 for what seems like months. It's probably only weeks. lol I've been trying to keep everything segregated to where it goes. Lots of bolts to keep track of. To me, the details -like the bolts, etc., are what makes or breaks a build like what I'm doing.

On a side note, where is the best place to get new OEM type bolts - coating and all? I've been doing some work on my old '66. On the top of the fenders there are semi-bright colored, washer-head, hex-drive bolts/screws. I'd like to get new ones - just of those. The rest of the ones that I fiddling with are black oxide coated. I can deal with those. Maybe they're cad plated. I don't know for sure.

Thealien · 10-04-2007, 03:41 PM

I got the bolts and clips for the inner fender to fender from GMC Pauls. I think I've seen the complete front bolt kits both stainless and regular on EBAY. I use zip lock bags with paper in them stating where they go written with a sharpie marker. On more complex issues I'll take a few digital picture for looking at later. Black oxide is real easy, you mix the solution with distilled water and put the clean metal parts in it for a while. If I see the ebay add I'll link it.

Spoof · 10-04-2007, 04:58 PM

I would be very interested to know the chemical composition of the Quick Black. If you can't find out Esll I'll try researching it on the web and see what I can dig up. Cheers

1972CheyenneSuper · 10-04-2007, 06:49 PM

I found this neat little article on using the black oxide finish.
http://www.joesfalcon.com/nutsbolt/nutbolt2.html

And this place has a 1.25 gallon kit for $42 or a 2.5 gallon for $80. The 1.25 gallon kit is similar to Eastwoods.
http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/black.htm

Eastwoods:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT

I think this is the way I'll go when I get to that point.

Spoof · 10-04-2007, 07:07 PM

Those products seem perfect. The more I think about it the more applications I can come up with...hood hinges, brake pedals, hood latch ,striker plates.
Diluted Muriatic acid apparently makes a great rust remover/metal cleaner to prep the bolts or what have you,but if you're not familiar with this acid...full eye, hand, face, you name it protection.

EAST SIDE LOW LIFE · 10-05-2007, 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spoof

I would be very interested to know the chemical composition of the Quick Black. If you can't find out Esll I'll try researching it on the web and see what I can dig up. Cheers

**********************************************************

Sorry Spoof got busy but here it is ..... Quick Black = Selenioust Phosphoric acids.

esll.

Ackattack · 10-05-2007, 12:40 AM

Looks like I'll be looking for a vibratory tumbler and some black oxide solution!

Spoof · 10-05-2007, 12:52 AM

That's great Esll. Now I'll see if I can hunt some of that down. According to the Eastwood oxide system it's a "temporary" agent good for about six months...probably the most you can ask from any product once exposed to the weather any how.

EAST SIDE LOW LIFE · 10-05-2007, 03:03 AM

[QUOTE=Spoof;2389248]That's great Esll. Now I'll see if I can hunt some of that down. According to the Eastwood oxide system it's a "temporary" agent good for about six months...probably the most you can ask from any product once exposed to the weather any how.[/QUOTE.

**********************************************************

I can not comment about Eastwood's system as I have not had the opportunity to use it. I can only say that the Quick Black that I have used last's a lot longer then 6 months. Next time your at the wreckers open doors, hoods ect. and look for bolts and you will find that they hold up quite well. To go to the effort to restore bolts and such items would be excessive in the restoration sense to winter drive such a vehicle. With that thought in mind I think you will be happy with the product that I posted.

The library has references for basic plating that might be of interest to you.

esll.

bad6772 · 10-05-2007, 05:53 AM

i put mine in a maritic < spell acid and water mix, give it like 5 hours and they are good to go, rince them very well and coat in used motor oil. i have also used tranny oil just the threads......after they soak for a while i clean the access oil with laquer thinner then lightly prime then paint.........then i clean all access threads with a wire brush, and re oil.... never had a problem with this process ever..............hope this helps tony

circuit_doc · 11-21-2009, 10:21 PM

After using muratic acid to clean the part - rinse the item with TSP (Tri-sodium phosphate). It neutralize the acid and is a cleaner. TSP is a very common household cleaner and can be bought in a powdered form almost any where.

Thealien · 11-21-2009, 10:45 PM

BOLT RESTORATIONS!

A little something I put together.

Thealien · 11-22-2009, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1972CheyenneSuper

I found this neat little article on using the black oxide finish.
http://www.joesfalcon.com/nutsbolt/nutbolt2.html

And this place has a 1.25 gallon kit for $42 or a 2.5 gallon for $80. The 1.25 gallon kit is similar to Eastwoods.
http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/black.htm

Eastwoods:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT

I think this is the way I'll go when I get to that point.

I use the caswell and show the process in the link above!

Mxracer202 · 11-30-2009, 08:33 PM

any body got more on the muriatic acid.

would like to just use its for a off roadin truck. so i dont care what they look like.

scrapmetalart · 12-01-2009, 03:57 AM

if they are rusty you can try electrolysis...

http://frontstcycle.blogspot.com/200...t-removal.html

http://frontstcycle.blogspot.com/200...l-is-good.html

10-04-2007, 02:48 PM	#28
Truckstr Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Lebanon, Tennessee Posts: 1,372	Re: restoring bolts Like I said, I did the cold bluing on an old .22 rifle a long time ago. It turned out okay. It really turned out more black oxide looking than it did "gun blue". I have been working on bolts, nuts and washers for my '67 for what seems like months. It's probably only weeks. lol I've been trying to keep everything segregated to where it goes. Lots of bolts to keep track of. To me, the details -like the bolts, etc., are what makes or breaks a build like what I'm doing. On a side note, where is the best place to get new OEM type bolts - coating and all? I've been doing some work on my old '66. On the top of the fenders there are semi-bright colored, washer-head, hex-drive bolts/screws. I'd like to get new ones - just of those. The rest of the ones that I fiddling with are black oxide coated. I can deal with those. Maybe they're cad plated. I don't know for sure. __________________ Jeff '67 short Fleet; my ongoing project. '66 long Fleet; my original "baby." Live life or bust trying.

10-04-2007, 03:41 PM	#29
Thealien Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Pine Ridge Florida Posts: 4,125	Re: restoring bolts I got the bolts and clips for the inner fender to fender from GMC Pauls. I think I've seen the complete front bolt kits both stainless and regular on EBAY. I use zip lock bags with paper in them stating where they go written with a sharpie marker. On more complex issues I'll take a few digital picture for looking at later. Black oxide is real easy, you mix the solution with distilled water and put the clean metal parts in it for a while. If I see the ebay add I'll link it.

10-04-2007, 04:58 PM	#30
Spoof Registered User Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Victoria,BC, Canada Posts: 1,300	Re: restoring bolts I would be very interested to know the chemical composition of the Quick Black. If you can't find out Esll I'll try researching it on the web and see what I can dig up. Cheers __________________ 71 GMC 1500 LWB

10-04-2007, 06:49 PM	#31
1972CheyenneSuper Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: ND Posts: 223	Re: restoring bolts I found this neat little article on using the black oxide finish. http://www.joesfalcon.com/nutsbolt/nutbolt2.html And this place has a 1.25 gallon kit for $42 or a 2.5 gallon for $80. The 1.25 gallon kit is similar to Eastwoods. http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/black.htm Eastwoods: http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT I think this is the way I'll go when I get to that point. Last edited by 1972CheyenneSuper; 10-04-2007 at 06:49 PM.

10-04-2007, 07:07 PM	#32
Spoof Registered User Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Victoria,BC, Canada Posts: 1,300	Re: restoring bolts Those products seem perfect. The more I think about it the more applications I can come up with...hood hinges, brake pedals, hood latch ,striker plates. Diluted Muriatic acid apparently makes a great rust remover/metal cleaner to prep the bolts or what have you,but if you're not familiar with this acid...full eye, hand, face, you name it protection. __________________ 71 GMC 1500 LWB

10-05-2007, 12:40 AM	#34
Ackattack Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Valley Center KS Posts: 3,525	Re: restoring bolts Looks like I'll be looking for a vibratory tumbler and some black oxide solution! __________________ Project Bruiser: 68 Pro-Touring C-10 5.3L / 4L60E Project Ironhide: 97 GMC Crew Cab 4x4 Cummins SOLD: '69 GMC 1/2T SWB TBI'd: Project No Buck Assembly Manual Index Sign up Thread!!! Factory Service Manual Index

10-05-2007, 12:52 AM	#35
Spoof Registered User Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Victoria,BC, Canada Posts: 1,300	Re: restoring bolts That's great Esll. Now I'll see if I can hunt some of that down. According to the Eastwood oxide system it's a "temporary" agent good for about six months...probably the most you can ask from any product once exposed to the weather any how. __________________ 71 GMC 1500 LWB

10-05-2007, 03:03 AM	#36
EAST SIDE LOW LIFE Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: VANCOUVER ISLAND, B.C., Canada Posts: 1,602	Re: restoring bolts [QUOTE=Spoof;2389248]That's great Esll. Now I'll see if I can hunt some of that down. According to the Eastwood oxide system it's a "temporary" agent good for about six months...probably the most you can ask from any product once exposed to the weather any how.[/QUOTE. ******************************************************** I can not comment about Eastwood's system as I have not had the opportunity to use it. I can only say that the Quick Black that I have used last's a lot longer then 6 months. Next time your at the wreckers open doors, hoods ect. and look for bolts and you will find that they hold up quite well. To go to the effort to restore bolts and such items would be excessive in the restoration sense to winter drive such a vehicle. With that thought in mind I think you will be happy with the product that I posted. The library has references for basic plating that might be of interest to you. esll. __________________ Tomorrow is for doing today's stuff. *********************************** This truck has just the right amount of energy for me! Author: Warren Lake .... (member)

10-05-2007, 05:53 AM	#37
bad6772 Official Site Guitar Shredder Join Date: May 2006 Location: Oz Posts: 3,955	Re: restoring bolts i put mine in a maritic < spell acid and water mix, give it like 5 hours and they are good to go, rince them very well and coat in used motor oil. i have also used tranny oil just the threads......after they soak for a while i clean the access oil with laquer thinner then lightly prime then paint.........then i clean all access threads with a wire brush, and re oil.... never had a problem with this process ever..............hope this helps tony

11-21-2009, 10:21 PM	#38
circuit_doc 1968 Custom Camper Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Queen Creek, Arizona Posts: 34	Re: restoring bolts After using muratic acid to clean the part - rinse the item with TSP (Tri-sodium phosphate). It neutralize the acid and is a cleaner. TSP is a very common household cleaner and can be bought in a powdered form almost any where. __________________

11-21-2009, 10:45 PM	#39
Thealien Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Pine Ridge Florida Posts: 4,125	Re: restoring bolts BOLT RESTORATIONS! A little something I put together.

11-30-2009, 08:33 PM	#41
Mxracer202 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: RC, South Dakota. Posts: 164	Re: restoring bolts any body got more on the muriatic acid. would like to just use its for a off roadin truck. so i dont care what they look like. __________________ 58 Jeep willys pickup 67 K10 4x4- soon to be trail truck TROUBLE MAKER RACING "If you can't stand BEHIND our troops, please stand in FRONT of them."

12-01-2009, 03:57 AM	#42
scrapmetalart Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: DAYTON Posts: 505	Re: restoring bolts if they are rusty you can try electrolysis... http://frontstcycle.blogspot.com/200...t-removal.html http://frontstcycle.blogspot.com/200...l-is-good.html __________________ frontstreetcycle on Instagram Last edited by scrapmetalart; 12-01-2009 at 03:58 AM.



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