Static or bags "question of the day"

[BB72CHEVKT]

I am running a static drop on my burb and I am very happy with the ride. It handles in corners really well. I also had the front end completely rebuilt and added an ECE sway bar.

[biohazardbill]

For me it was a decision of how low I wanted to go. The stance I wanted as ride height would not allow me to get out of my driveway without scraping if i were to do it static. So to achieve the look I wanted I had to go bags..... You can do it cheap.... look up tcm-1 he had a very economical and functional air ride setup.

[Graham57a]

Anyone run bags without a compressor? I have bags on the rear of my truck and will eventually have bags up front when I get tubular lowers but want to run springs for now to cut down on cost and modification. The PO had bags on the rear and springs up front and just ran valves out of the frame rail so you could adjust the psi. Is this a bad idea? I would like to eventually get a compressor but wanted to add that later down the road

[biohazardbill]

Originally Posted by Graham57a

Anyone run bags without a compressor? I have bags on the rear of my truck and will eventually have bags up front when I get tubular lowers but want to run springs for now to cut down on cost and modification. The PO had bags on the rear and springs up front and just ran valves out of the frame rail so you could adjust the psi. Is this a bad idea? I would like to eventually get a compressor but wanted to add that later down the road

I have seen people do it with scuba tanks.....

[jeh]

I talked to Jay with American Pastimes today, he worked me up a package with RideTech bags and a set of 2.5" spindles. I'll do a little more research, but I think that's what I'm looking for.
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[sundog]

It's funny it hasn't been mentioned, but you could save hundreds using a belt driven compressor. You can find them for dirt cheap used ($50 or less), they put out more cfm than an electric compressor, and even a hobby mechanic can build brackets for them.

[CC69Rat]

jeh - Maybe you could do Shrader bags for now, then when you can work out / save some more fun money get your on-board stuff, controllers, etc.

Shrader bags are a lot like the old school air shocks. You can adjust the height where you want it and well .. leave it and enjoy the ride, OR .. if you run to Home Depot and get 10 bags of cement just air it up at the gas station to level it back off.

Have you looked at the Porterbuilt stage 2 kit(s) ?

[SBC]

Should have mentioned that's (^^^) what I did. PB stage 1 front and PB stage 2 rear. Your gonna like it, perfect setup if your not looking to lay frame.

[Malamute]

Originally Posted by sundog

It's funny it hasn't been mentioned, but you could save hundreds using a belt driven compressor. You can find them for dirt cheap used ($50 or less), they put out more cfm than an electric compressor, and even a hobby mechanic can build brackets for them.

I have often wondered about that and these trucks. When I had my Jeep I installed a York compressor for my on board air and it worked great. I could air up my 36" tires from 5psi to 28psi in about 1 min/tire.

The only negative is it would need to be incorporated under the hood and it really doesn't look as clean. No clue what belt configuration one would need either. That wasn't really a worry with a Jeep.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Graham57a

Anyone run bags without a compressor? I have bags on the rear of my truck and will eventually have bags up front when I get tubular lowers but want to run springs for now to cut down on cost and modification. The PO had bags on the rear and springs up front and just ran valves out of the frame rail so you could adjust the psi. Is this a bad idea? I would like to eventually get a compressor but wanted to add that later down the road

Originally Posted by Malamute

I have often wondered about that and these trucks. When I had my Jeep I installed a York compressor for my on board air and it worked great. I could air up my 36" tires from 5psi to 28psi in about 1 min/tire.

The only negative is it would need to be incorporated under the hood and it really doesn't look as clean. No clue what belt configuration one would need either. That wasn't really a worry with a Jeep.

Engine driven compressors are cool, but require mods to help keep down on oil consumption.
If you are just filling a tank to air up tires or run air tools it would be cool.

But at the price of individual air valves, or even more expensive block valves, (like RideTech or Accuair valve),... I would hate to contaminate those high dollar air ride control valves with oil.
Parker valves can be disassembled and cleaned,... but who wants to do that all the time.
Just my opinion.

[lolife99]

Search EDC compressors:
Just one of many threads about them:
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...edc-issue.html

Now they say,... no oil mod.
Anyone know for sure???

After Talking to Brad Kilby himself from onboardair.com for about a 1/2hr here is what i learned to be untrue from folklore and the myths and the best ways to run these things.

#1 yorks require a MINIMUM of 6 fl oz. not 5.5 or anything less, under 6oz they will not lubricate AT ALL

#2 do not do the york oil mod, it is not necessary and will starve the york from oiling the front seal and will block air flow as well to the head.. and starves the head from oiling itself.

#3 run and maintain 12 fluid oz of straight 30 weight (non detergent!) oil. again any time below 6oz you are literally running without oil!!!

#4 the best way to run them is to run a good oil/water trap/filter and check your levels and empty the filter often... will let the york last longer and run cooler, the way it was intended to be used.

#5 as with any motor the faster the rpm it sees it will increase output but the yorks gets especially hot in higher rpms, best to try to keep engine speed at lower rpms less than 1500 while its engauged but is capable of 6000rpm..

#6 unloaders are pointless, all they do is releive pressure in the head which helps to turn the unit over once engauged which is pointless with a engine turning it, because there is plenty of power to get it moving. does your regular a/c compressor have one? but a small electric compressor would benifit being weak.

#7 use the square cut white teflon seals with the top OBA fittings on the yorks, i didnt and oops!!! with the Tube-O also use the o-ring, both of which are standard a/c service parts.

#8 lastly... the best and only mod to do to these yorks for less oil consumption is to vent the crankcase as follows.
depending on your setup you need use the oil plug hole that would see the internal crank as it is coming down to splash into the pool of oil.. most of our vehicles turn clockwise, so if you were looking at the york from the front of the vehicle (towards the back) the rotation would be moving down at the 3 O'clock position. that is the hole to make a vent for. what this does is let the crankcase pull air through the filter vs pulling air through an oiling hole therefore reducing oil consumption. basically the same thing the "old oil mod" was trying to do.

the threads are 5/16 fine thread (24) the exact fittings i used were from brake line parts from a race car shop..
#1 K&N filter part number 62-2480 (on top)
#2 a 3 to 4" chunk of 5/16" hose and 2 clamps (middle)
#3 Aeroquip brand -4 to -3 inverted flare (- are dashes) (into york)
#4 Aeroquip 1441 hose end push lock -4 female 90 (into above fitting)
#5 is a custom local part but any barb or whatnot will work to go into the 5/16 hose and the filter will set on top of it.. (into hose to hold filter)

see pic below

this setup with a brand new york 57064 Tube-O compressor from 4seasons ac parts is awesome.. little blowby and oil is finally collecting in the filter clean, not discolored and dirty. it is noticibly running cooler and smoother.

[Malamute]

Mine had oil IIRC. It also had a clutch in it so it would only run when you flipped the switch and it wouldn't be running all of the time. As you said, not that big of a deal when airing tires or running tools but IF there was a trace amount of oil in the lines you would hate to ruin valves or anything else associated with the air system.

[sundog]

I know many guys who use belt driven comps. They play with their air all the time, and the engine bays look great.

Powder coat the compressor, get creative with solid lines.

I currently run a Viaar 480c in my car, and although its a great comp, it's a power hog, still takes up space, very loud, wasn't cheap.

Im looking forward to higher cfm in the truck.

As mentioned, regardless if it's an electric or belt driven compressor, you run a separator and filter. My shop compressor is running both as well.

Also, you can service most higher end valves for cleaning, and all tanks should have a water drain. Quality bags have a moisture barrier as well, to help defend against dirty air. Slam Specialties bags are very good for that (and the built in bump stops is a nice bonus)

[eightbanger]

More info on the subject here

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=183457