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#1 |
60-66 Nut
![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Posts: 23,248
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Re: 1966 Chevy C-10 New project-need help
You're going to need a rebuild kit for the model of carb you have. The numbers on that little metal tag will have the numbers the parts guy needs to get you the correct kit. You will also need a way to clean the carb. The best way is to get a gallon can of carb dip. If that is not possible, then the aerosol cans will work. It is also helpful to have compressed air to blow out the passages. The fuel filter goes on the inside of the fuel inlet fitting.
__________________
Power Steering Box Adapter Plates For Sale HERE Power Brake Booster Adapter Brackets For Sale '63-'66 HERE and '67-'72 HERE and '60-'62 HERE and "60-'62 with clutch HERE Rear Disc Brake Brackets For Sale. Impala SS calipers HERE Camaro Calipers HERE D52 Calipers HERE 6 Lug HERE Hydroboost Mounting Plates HERE |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: joshua tree ca.
Posts: 1,484
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Re: 1966 Chevy C-10 New project-need help
you should also put an inline filter just before the fuel pump keeps all the crap out of the pump and will keep your carb filter cleaner longer
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Tuscaloosa
Posts: 37
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Re: 1966 Chevy C-10 New project-need help
Helllllllll yeahhhhh guyssssss I'm on cloud nine. I thought my truck ran well before. I rebuilt the whole carb myself honestly wasn't too hard for a first timer. I used some youtube guide, wd-40, carb cleaner, pressure cleaner, wires to clean holes, new rebuild kit, and bam my truck sounds so much better now. The carb rebuild helped all the engine shake that I thought was natural for that truck. It also sounds great now. Smooth. It idle's pretty well now. Some questions I have.
1) When setting the gas/accelerating rods back onto the carb- I feel like my truck may be idling a little high. but it sounds great. probably just too high rpm's. Which rod should i fix. I consider them as three. One on the bottom, which is connected to the rod above, as well as a third on top.I also don't know what the top cable does. It's a drivers side black wire that screws into the little golden box. Its the one with a spring on top that is bolted into the corner of the carb. So just trying to figure out what that does so I can properly fix my idle. 2) I also noticed the two little screws in the front ( the only two screws with springs and pointed tips) of my carb to change the sound of the engine a little bit. I guess they determine how much fuel is going into the carb? How tight should they be? they are about halfway from fully tight and halfway from fully loose right now.. 3) As for the fuel filter I'll post a picture of what it looks like. Thanks for the replies but I'm still clueless as to where it is installed. Thanks so much guys! I'm having a blast fixing up the Ole Chevy C-10! -Brock First pic is the rebuild! Second Pic is the mystery Fuel Filter (that I don't know where to install). |
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#4 |
60-66 Nut
![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Posts: 23,248
|
Re: 1966 Chevy C-10 New project-need help
THat fuel filter is for a inline canister, which your truck does not have. I'll see if I can find a part number or pic of the one you need.
On the idle mixtuire screws, you want to adjust those for the highest vacuum reading. if you don't have a vacuum gauge, adjust for the highest idle speed. I don't know enough about those 2bbl carbs to advise on the rods you are asking about.
__________________
Power Steering Box Adapter Plates For Sale HERE Power Brake Booster Adapter Brackets For Sale '63-'66 HERE and '67-'72 HERE and '60-'62 HERE and "60-'62 with clutch HERE Rear Disc Brake Brackets For Sale. Impala SS calipers HERE Camaro Calipers HERE D52 Calipers HERE 6 Lug HERE Hydroboost Mounting Plates HERE |
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#5 |
60-66 Nut
![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Posts: 23,248
|
Re: 1966 Chevy C-10 New project-need help
Here are some part numbers for the correct fuel filter for your carb. O'Reilly's brand #PCG3388, AC #GF470, Hastings #GF-86, Purolator #E10157, Wix # 33051. If you want to add an inline filter as also suggested, that would be a Wix #33032, which is for a 5/16" fuel hose.
__________________
Power Steering Box Adapter Plates For Sale HERE Power Brake Booster Adapter Brackets For Sale '63-'66 HERE and '67-'72 HERE and '60-'62 HERE and "60-'62 with clutch HERE Rear Disc Brake Brackets For Sale. Impala SS calipers HERE Camaro Calipers HERE D52 Calipers HERE 6 Lug HERE Hydroboost Mounting Plates HERE |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Tuscaloosa
Posts: 37
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Thanks Captain that helped a bunch!
New issue! Since I rebuilt my carb, I had to reattach it to the manifold. I was able to get three of the four nuts on properly but one was giving me a hassle. So after tightening it too much and trying hard to get the but on the old bolt, I made the problem worse. The original problem was that there was a slight hissing or possible air leak. When is was only mild I was running the truck with only three bolts in. So after tightening the fourth bolt and messing around with it too much I ended up with a even louder hissing or air leak. It's strange to me because I was able to get the fourth bolt in tight but now the leak sounds much louder. How could it be that there is a louder/more powerful leak now that all four bolt are in tightly. I assume the fourth (hassle bolt), isn't in properly but how could this lead to a even stronger leak? It doesn't make sense to me. Running the truck with only 3 bolts connecting the carb had a mild hissing sound. But when jamming the fourth bolt in I end up with a much louder hissing/air leak? Help me please and thanks!!! Any reply helps at this point! |
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1964, 1965, 1966, c-10, c10 |
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