Project Funeral - 47'

[Funeral]

Originally Posted by B17CRX

well the rust looks pretty standard, patch panels are available for your trouble spots. bookmark this they have pretty much everything you will need to finish up your truck.

http://www.lmctruck.com/ICATALOG/CA/full.aspx?Page=20

-Joel

Awesome thx for the resource, I still have some pull apart to do that I will finish tonight and come sat is when I start making a list, I'm gonna go full speed ahead with a wire bush on these places to see how far the rot goes, if a wire brush bust it, I don't want it.

[Funeral]

Ok so I got everything off of the truck today but the cab, I am going to need some inventive Ideas for cab removal, I see lots of folks with tractors taking them off, I dont have a tractor, nor do I have any ceiling cross framing to jack it up with a come along.... so let me know, I have to do it redneck style.


So the bed came off pretty ez. all the wood and wood hold strips were shot obviously... I was surprised with the condition of the cab under the seat and in the back. I also found all the original paper work for the truck with service records under the seat. and an old school oil can spout (the kind you poke in ) wrapped up in socks in perfect condition. A phone bill from 1947 that has a notice of the 10% war tax. and a Jimmy Durante Children's Fund card. Not to mention some of the old stamps from a department store, the kind you would use to put in the books and when you filled it you got like a toaster or a blender.

Anyway heres some pics, it got pretty cold today but we made pretty good progress.








The overall condition of the frame is great, no cracks or bad rust at all. Gotta love northern trucks!

I'll have more pics we should be pulling the cab tomorrow, so shoot me ideas.

[B17CRX]

lol nice soda can, looks like my tear down.....


-Joel

[50adrod]

Originally Posted by B17CRX

well the rust looks pretty standard, patch panels are available for your trouble spots. bookmark this they have pretty much everything you will need to finish up your truck.

http://www.lmctruck.com/ICATALOG/CA/full.aspx?Page=20

-Joel

I agree standard rust for theese old trucks. it looks all to familiar, my cab is finally all patched and rust free. I was in your town for crusin the coast last month, nice town and friendly police. if your driver side inner to outer cowl is bad I have one I did not use, you can have it, I have no need for it now.

[Funeral]

Originally Posted by 50adrod

I agree standard rust for theese old trucks. it looks all to familiar, my cab is finally all patched and rust free. I was in your town for crusin the coast last month, nice town and friendly police. if your driver side inner to outer cowl is bad I have one I did not use, you can have it, I have no need for it now.

Hey man thats awesome! I could definately use it, my parts list right now has a total of about 2k, I have the money for it, but somehow I lost 640 bucks, I'm not sure how so this would be a big help, and I really hope to see you down here or in Biloxi Crusin next year! I Have a lot of work ahead of me but I think I can Have the thing drivable by next summer. I'll shoot you a message.


And to 54 I see what you mean, so the cab lifts off sideways. Great idea!

[watahyahknow]

the knob could be a reverse lockout to prevent you from selecting it instead of first gear

[54 jimmy]

here are the pics of the atachment that i made to lift the cab off the frame. you'll need to open one door and just lift up aginst the roof.

[Funeral]

Did you make 2 of these and run them front to back? or just this one and only hooked the lift in the middle running side to side?

[54 jimmy]

just one! you wil need to open or take one of the doors off,then you will lift up in the middle of the door from the pass or driver side.

[pgf545]

I am not exactly sure what part you are talking about but just about everything on the cab is spot welded. There are a couple of ways to remove them but all of them involve some sort of cutting. I have used a spot weld drill that we got some Eastwood. I have also used a 3/8 drill and just tried to cut through the top layer...that method works pretty good except you usually still have a little tearing or cutting to do. I also ground a drill that worked pretty good until I broke it...lol.

Bernie

[Funeral]

Yeah I know the feeling, I made a Clutch Drive screw driver out of an old phillips head screwdriver, but after every 10 screws or so I had to re grind it, lol...


Well we got the body off tonight.... I guess then is when your supposed to say OMG WTF because tonight as I looked at the frame I am not ashamed to say I felt a bit in over my head, this being my first rebuild and all.... frame up... Yeah lets not talk about it.... LOL, heres some pics. I'll start cleaning the frame powder blasting and painting this week / weekend, and my parts should be in by wed for patch panels etc... say alittle prayer for me, I'll need it, lol.












I am happy tpo report that the fame is rust free (other than surface rust) Crack free and bend free. I guess that can be my silver lining.

[Funeral]

Oh I wanted to add we just picked the cab up and carried it was not as heavy as I thought it would be.

[watahyahknow]

still a matt colour but a 50's one like seafoam green or babybleu or sumtin
i did understood that matt is difficult to do you can do basecoat and dont do a topcoat but that will fade the paint eventually and doesnt seal completely against the weather
use a top coat with flattener is allso hard to keep from getting patches in the paint ........ read the story on the hot rod magazine F bomb

[Funeral]

I think I'm in love with this color... what do ya think.

[mylow53]

one thing about flat black most people will wonder when you will eventually paint it. also when you do primer use a lighter color. when i was mocking up i couldn't see what is was doing half the time due to my dark primer. as far as final color remember your will be the one dropping 10 to 15 k so you better be happy with the color. I have a bold personality so i like bold colors...
GT

[Funeral]

Ok got some parts in today and wanted to show my frame.












Ok so I figured out the round deals, headlight seals, but what are these next to it?



And they sent this tool... what is it?




Painted frame. Remember this is a daily driver so my goal here was just remove surface rust and put like 5 coats of rustoleum.

[pgf545]

I love getting the new parts in...like Christmas for us old guys...lol. Playing with our trucks. I have no idea what the seals are that you have or the tool but if you figure it out let us know cause I am sure that I will run into it sooner or later. The frame looks great and should serve the purpose well. The one that I am helping my dad with is going to be a driver but it has gotten a little out of control and will probably only be driven on nice days. But we are building what he wants and what he will enjoy.

Bernie

[jeffs51chevy]

Those "seals" are the anti-squeak pads that go between the runningboard and the rear fenders. As for the tool, I have no idea what it's for.

[Funeral]

Originally Posted by jeffs51chevy

Those "seals" are the anti-squeak pads that go between the runningboard and the rear fenders. As for the tool, I have no idea what it's for.

awesome! you rock. I def need to figure this tool oit, could it be for the window rubber kit? I'll prob just call them, on the invoice it just says R-Tool

[watahyahknow]

cant it be a tool to instal weatherseal or sumtin , maibe the manuel will shed some light onto it

[solidaxel]

The tool is for replacing the locking strip in the small side windows on a 5 window. the tirangular end fits into the grove in the gasket and is followed by the rubber locking bead, stay a bit ahead with the tool and force the bead into the grove that is spread by the tool.

Right the other gaskets are as mentioned above, fender to running board rear.

[Funeral]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

The tool is for replacing the locking strip in the small side windows on a 5 window. the tirangular end fits into the grove in the gasket and is followed by the rubber locking bead, stay a bit ahead with the tool and force the bead into the grove that is spread by the tool.

Right the other gaskets are as mentioned above, fender to running board rear.

Oh I see so this will work for the back window, its made the same way.


Few things we have done.... #1 thing I learned quickly was that I DID NOT have a 216 like I was told, it is however a 235 '53-'55 also had a bent rod, and the WRONG gasket set..... so I have to send it back, if they will take it back....

We tore everything down on the motor cant find any rhyme or reason mechanically for the bent rod, the valves look amazing, hardened seats, etc... so we guessed maybe a back fire bent the rod, or just crappy rod, only one was really bent, and not that bad either. I'll put some pics up for it, I really do hope they will take this gasket set back.... 74 bones into it and zero use for it.

[50adrod]

could possibly have had water in the cylinder or excess fuel if it sat up for while, then bent the rod when trying to compress the liguid when starting. by the way your parts went out friday on UPS

[Funeral]

Originally Posted by 50adrod

could possibly have had water in the cylinder or excess fuel if it sat up for while, then bent the rod when trying to compress the liguid when stsrting. by the way your parts went out friday on UPS

That may be the most realistic cause. And awesome on the parts did you get the paypal?

[50adrod]

Originally Posted by Funeral

That may be the most realistic cause. And awesome on the parts did you get the paypal?

yes I did, glad to help. when you start replacing panels try to leave as much of the original that is still good. that is the reason I had those panels. the originals were not as bad a I thought and it was easier to repair than replace.