Another Power Steering Conversion Thread

[LostMy65]

Thanks to Chevy_Mike, we now have this discrepancy resolved, and will be updated on the template.

The 1-3/4 is the exact difference to the 'rag joint', but this (as mike points out) would be a butt weld, with nothing to spare. And allows for no mis-measurement in the slightest. 1/8 short, and you have a 1/8 gap.



However; if you measure from the flange 1-3/4" it allows the shaft to slip into the flange by that amount.



Honestly though, to leave it slightly long makes sense, one could always cut it again.
Cut it too short, and you have to run up to the tool store and buy a shaft stretcher

[gabe2000]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Actually, that makes total sense!

I will make an adjustment to the template.

I took some more pics, and will post them when I get back to my office.

Thank you, this will help.
Posted via Mobile Device

Excuse my inexperince. Whats a template? Is it the adpator plate? I have not bought captainfab's plate but will soon. i just need to learn how to use the paypal system.

There's too much technical words I don't understand why are people having problem installing this.

This is the Way I would do it: Install the steering column, Then Align the steering box with the steering Rod. Mark the steering box's holes. Cut the Rod if necessary. That's It!!! I am right?

[tapeworm]

subscribed!

[Captainfab]

The template that LostMy65 has helped me create, is a better way of locating the adapter plate. The template will be just a piece of 8 1/2" x 11" paper, that you place on the frame, once the original steering box is removed. It will show you where to locate the new mounting holes in relation to the holes for the original steering box.

The original method was using measurements from reference points, but this proved to be inaccurate.

I'll have to look into the steering column shaft length issue again.

Originally Posted by gabe2000

Excuse my inexperince. Whats a template? Is it the adpator plate? I have not bought captainfab's plate but will soon. i just need to learn how to use the paypal system.

There's too much technical words I don't understand why are people having problem installing this.

This is the Way I would do it: Install the steering column, Then Align the steering box with the steering Rod. Mark the steering box's holes. Cut the Rod if necessary. That's It!!! I am right?

[chevy_man5]

Captainfab has sent me the template. It was easy to print out to scale. I had just gotten the bracket from him before Christmas. I haven't used it yet, (work and kids take alot of time) but will be getting to that point hopefully in the next couple of weeks.

[chevy_mike]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Thanks to Chevy_Mike, we now have this discrepancy resolved, and will be updated on the template.

The 1-3/4 is the exact difference to the 'rag joint', but this (as mike points out) would be a butt weld, with nothing to spare. And allows for no mis-measurement in the slightest. 1/8 short, and you have a 1/8 gap.


However; if you measure from the flange 1-3/4" it allows the shaft to slip into the flange by that amount.

Honestly though, to leave it slightly long makes sense, one could always cut it again.
Cut it too short, and you have to run up to the tool store and buy a shaft stretcher

Yes, I know all about that shaft stretcher.



Definitely had I measured from the end of the flange, it would have wokred out fine but like you said, easier to leave the shaft a little long and cut extra off then having to stretch it. Just glad my local metal supply shop had the right size DOM tubing.

[777ralph]

Captainfab, please forgive me for this attempt to influence your design. Rather than a paper template, would it not be simpler to drill two more holes in your bracket as locators, to bolt the bracket to the frame through two of the manual box mounts? then drill the new mount holes using the bracket as a template, remove the locator bolts, and bolt the new box in. Your bracket does cover a couple of the original holes, right?
I appreciate your presence here on this board, and the products you've designed for us. I don't mean to step on any toes.
Ralph

[chevy_mike]

Originally Posted by 777ralph

Captainfab, please forgive me for this attempt to influence your design. Rather than a paper template, would it not be simpler to drill two more holes in your bracket as locators, to bolt the bracket to the frame through two of the manual box mounts? then drill the new mount holes using the bracket as a template, remove the locator bolts, and bolt the new box in. Your bracket does cover a couple of the original holes, right?
I appreciate your presence here on this board, and the products you've designed for us. I don't mean to step on any toes.
Ralph

Now that sounds like a great idea!!! This way you could used a couple temp bolts/nuts to hold the plate while you drill you new holes, then remove the temp ones and you're good to go.

[chevy_man5]

After reading these, I looked at the template that Captainfab sent me. According to the template, it covers up (3) existing holes. The problem would be that (2) of them are right next to the new holes, and one is right on the edge. The (2) by the new holes would be right under the spacers on his bracket.

[777ralph]

Thanks ChevyMan. That explains why my idea isn't already being used. Should have known if CFab could have doe it, he would have.
Ralph

[Captainfab]

Yes that would be easier. In fact that is how the 'other guys' have theirs. But with my design that would only be possible for one of the original holes. The other two as chevy-man5 said, are covered by the spacers. Using only one hole to locate the adapter plate still allows for a mistake in positioning. At this point, I want to eliminate any more mistakes in locating the adapter plate. So the paper template would seem to be the best solution right now.

Originally Posted by 777ralph

Captainfab, please forgive me for this attempt to influence your design. Rather than a paper template, would it not be simpler to drill two more holes in your bracket as locators, to bolt the bracket to the frame through two of the manual box mounts? then drill the new mount holes using the bracket as a template, remove the locator bolts, and bolt the new box in. Your bracket does cover a couple of the original holes, right?
I appreciate your presence here on this board, and the products you've designed for us. I don't mean to step on any toes.
Ralph

[777ralph]

Yep, you're right. So much for my attempt at being the "armchair quarterback"!
Ralph

[idaho66stepside]

Oh boy after reading this post I may be in trouble. When I was plucking parts off a 77 burb I didn't grab the pitman and the steering shaft spun around in different direction. How do I know if I will have equal turns right to left?

[Captainfab]

You'll just need to turn the input shaft all the way to the left until it stops. Then turn it all the way to the right, while counting how many turns until it stops. Then go back half way.

Originally Posted by idaho66stepside

Oh boy after reading this post I may be in trouble. When I was plucking parts off a 77 burb I didn't grab the pitman and the steering shaft spun around in different direction. How do I know if I will have equal turns right to left?

[idaho66stepside]

Of course! Thanks Cap!

[LostMy65]

I'm interested in hearing how things have been going for those who have used the Template CaptainFab has been including with his Power Steering Adapter Plate.

[treagan53]

i got the plate from captainfab and the install went very well with the new drawing.

[Captainfab]

That's good to hear. Thanks for the feedback

Originally Posted by treagan53

i got the plate from captainfab and the install went very well with the new drawing.

[Slowtruk]

I'm going to revive this write-up for a second.

Today dad and I were walking around my 65 and kicking around ideas. We talked about adding power steering,so I got on here and did some reading. Looked in the FAQ section first and came to this thread. Ive studied it and CaptainFabs "bracket page" and this looks pretty dang simple from the added drawing that now comes with it.

My questions are these.

1. What years of steering box will work? I see a lot of 70's models used. I have access to a complete setup off an 89 chevy, would that work? If not, I could purchase a new or rebuilt unit from the parts house that would work. I just need to know what years would work.

2. I think I read that the pittman arms are different lengths (meaning the existing 65 I have and one of a different year)?

3.Can I use my factory steering column, obviously after cutting it down?

4. Once I bought Fab's plate, bolted in the steering box, made the necessary cuts and welds to the steering column, i would just need hoses to run from the box to the power steering pump and voila?

Thanks for any advice, I'd really like to do this. Assuming captain fab's plate is still available

[Captainfab]

Originally Posted by Slowtruk

I'm going to revive this write-up for a second.

Today dad and I were walking around my 65 and kicking around ideas. We talked about adding power steering,so I got on here and did some reading. Looked in the FAQ section first and came to this thread. Ive studied it and CaptainFabs "bracket page" and this looks pretty dang simple from the added drawing that now comes with it.

My questions are these.

1. What years of steering box will work? I see a lot of 70's models used. I have access to a complete setup off an 89 chevy, would that work? If not, I could purchase a new or rebuilt unit from the parts house that would work. I just need to know what years would work.

No, a '89 steering box will not work, unless it is from a 2wd Suburban or Blazer. The years of steering boxes to use are from '69-'87 C10,20 and 30 pickups, Suburbans, and 2wd Blazers.

Originally Posted by Slowtruk

2. I think I read that the pittman arms are different lengths (meaning the existing 65 I have and one of a different year)?

You will have to use a pitman arm from/for a '69-'87 C10,20 or 30. Same as for the steering box above

Originally Posted by Slowtruk

3.Can I use my factory steering column, obviously after cutting it down?

Yes you can use your original steering column. The installation instructions show you how to re-use your original flange, or you can purchase the tube and flange I sell.

Originally Posted by Slowtruk

4. Once I bought Fab's plate, bolted in the steering box, made the necessary cuts and welds to the steering column, i would just need hoses to run from the box to the power steering pump and voila?

Yep, that's about it.

Originally Posted by Slowtruk

Thanks for any advice, I'd really like to do this. Assuming captain fab's plate is still available

Yes, all of my parts are still available. Send me a PM when you're ready.

[Slowtruk]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

No, a '89 steering box will not work, unless it is from a 2wd Suburban or Blazer. The years of steering boxes to use are from '69-'87 C10,20 and 30 pickups, Suburbans, and 2wd Blazers.



You will have to use a pitman arm from/for a '69-'87 C10,20 or 30. Same as for the steering box above



Yes you can use your original steering column. The installation instructions show you how to re-use your original flange, or you can purchase the tube and flange I sell.



Yep, that's about it.



Yes, all of my parts are still available. Send me a PM when you're ready.

you pretty much answered all my questions! I'll be pm'ing you tonight!
Posted via Mobile Device

[Heater63]

Bump.

Let's review the idler arm- are you guys using original year idler arm to the chassis/linkage, or updating to a different year? ? or changing spacers on it??

I am installing on a '63, have an '86 PS box mounted, and a new '86 pitman arm.
I don't have everything tightened down, but just mocking it up it looks like: a) the center drag link is extremely close to the crossmember b) the idler arm needs to be flipped and mounted without the spacer block to get it aligned "neutral". Here is a picture of the '63 idler arm, no spacer, but "flipped". I put a piece of blue tape on it to make it show a little better. This looks correct to my eye. Disregard the tie rod angle, it is just laying there.

[dracko]

I'm interested in hearing how things have been going for those who have used the Template CaptainFab has been including with his Power Steering Adapter Plate.

I used the template also and it worked like a charm. After punching holes where the original bolts go, I just bolted/taped the template to the frame and center punched the new holes. Easy as pie. And man is this thing a dream to drive now. I no longer fear parking lots. lol. Thanks!

Let's review the idler arm- are you guys using original year idler arm to the chassis/linkage, or updating to a different year? ? or changing spacers on it??

I didn't mess with the idler arm. Haven't had any issues with the drag link bar rubbing the cross member.

[Heater63]

[I didn't mess with the idler arm. Haven't had any issues with the drag link bar rubbing the cross member.[/QUOTE]


dracko, thanks for the info. So you used the old idler arm? Could you do me a favor? and post a picture of your idler arm that shows if it is centered or off center when the steering box is centered.

[dracko]

Yeah I left the old one on there. All my steering components need to be replaced, I just need to decide if I'm gonna go to disk brakes before ordering all the parts up.

I will get a pic tomorrow. Have you tried bolting it up and working the steering back and forth? I haven't heard much about folks needing to modify it when switching to power steering.