The 283 Rebuild Begins

[justcuz]

Whats up with the balancer?

[MacAttack]

Yeah - it really adds up when you insist on doing it right:

Engine Rebuild: (including scrapping the first block out) $1,700
Motor Towers & mounts: $235
New H/D Radiator and shroud: $525
Hoses, clamps, fan, water pump: $150
Trans rebuild, B&M T/C & shift kit, linkage, deep pan: $900
Front coil springs: $140
HEI distributor: $100
Carburator rebuild & linkage: $135
Exhaust manifold repair: $100
Complete exhaust system: $540
Ginnie Shifter: $275
Gas tank neck repair assembly: $85
Steering column repair kits: $150

and so on ……and so on…and so on.......

But because I've had the Chevelle as my daily driver - I wanted to do this right the first time. At least that's the theory.

[justbad]

I build about 8 - 10 cars a year.ive had very limited luck on rebuilds it seems that everyone knows how to build a sbc
problem is they all "sort of" know how to build a small block
they all take short cuts.that's why i try to use crate or factory pullouts.you will spend $2 grand on a cheap rebuild.for about the same amount you can buy a pullout from a late 90's f body
ls1 or ls6 with a trans .ive done this a lot and i will tell you from experiance you will dbl the money you get if you sale the thing .just a thought ,by the way the last car a 68 chevelle i put one in got a lil over 27 mpg that dont suck eather.

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by justbad

that's why i try to use crate or factory pullouts.you will spend $2 grand on a cheap rebuild.

Yeah - I won't do it again. It was fun, but only because I had the 65' Chevelle to drive to work in the mean time. I think I'll do the modern power-plant routine on the next build, but I have to sell or rebuild the 350 and 327 engines I have on dollies first.

Mac.

[mike73]

Originally Posted by justcuz

What kind of cam are you putting in it? I would suggest staying mild, something like a HO 305 Camaro cam. Ask the machine shop, but those small engines do not like a lot of cam, won't make much vacuum for power brakes if you do. HO 305 cam is like 403 in and 415 ex. I forget the duration and lobe seperation, it is slightly bigger than a stock 350 cam which is 390 in and 410 ex. Are you running a 2 barrel carb? How do you crack an intake manifold? Does this guy build hobby stock race engines? Old stock Chevy 2BBL intakes are worth bank to these guys for some reason. I swapped 3 of mine for some cast iron 4BBL intakes for Qjets and the guy was practically overjoyed to get them. Not worth much to me, I would rather have the Qjet and drive the primaries most of the time and still have the ability to tromp on it if needed.

I think they like em for the TBI swaps if Im not mistaken?

[Chevy Fleetside]

Get some aluminum line and bend your own. This way you can run them where ever you want. I am going to run mine down the frame rails.

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by Chevy Fleetside

Get some aluminum line and bend your own. This way you can run them where ever you want. I am going to run mine down the frame rails.

Cool idea, but be careful. The transmission moves a little bit and the frame is rigid.

[Chevy Fleetside]

ok,, I am going to run them down the frame rails and stop at the tranny and cross over with soft line. Acually braided steel line to be exact..

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by Chevy Fleetside

ok,, I am going to run them down the frame rails and stop at the tranny and cross over with soft line. Acually braided steel line to be exact..

You know what's crazy - I found the exact lines I need in the Original Parts Group website yesterday evening. About $85 for stainless steel lines (2) with all the appropriate fittings.

You may be okay with going 'hard tubing' all the way. These lines that I may yet order run right to the bottom of the radiator - which is connected to the frame - virtually - so you may not have a problem, other than using the softer material.

If I get the motor in and this connection routine turns into a hassle, I may just leave the radiator loose, make the connections and then tie the radiator down. Failing that, I'll just clip the ends off and go soft tube to the radiator.

[joe231]

most cars and trucks in the 70-80's came with hard lines from the transmission to the radiators, worked for many years that way

[joe231]

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by joe231

Yep - you're right, and I'm working on it. I always use those Fuji throw-away cameras (27 shots) and get them processed at Wal-Mart (yes, I know - I should make the transition to digital) and this last one that's in now will also come with a disk, so I can share and you can all make fun of me accordingly,

[Chevy Fleetside]

You have to paint it all pretty before you take pictures.

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by Chevy Fleetside

You have to paint it all pretty before you take pictures.

Seven hours today - doing just that. NOT TRADITIONAL! I'm going to take a major load of crap for this, but the block's Navy gray - In honor of my Dad, who passed away a while ago and was an MCPO. Flat black pan, Chrome valve covers, gray block and intake manifold.

BTW: Is there a torque pattern for the 2-barrel intake manifold for a 65' 283 SBC?

A couple of disappointments when inspecting the long block during my paint work today: #1. All the hardware at the oil filter port is gone, including the male pipe thread fitting. #2. The push rod for the fuel pump isn't in the block.

Is this normal after an engine rebuild? I don't want to start a stink if it isn't warranted.

[leftcoast66]

Originally Posted by MacAttack

Seven hours today - doing just that. NOT TRADITIONAL! I'm going to take a major load of crap for this, but the block's Navy gray - In honor of my Dad, who passed away a while ago and was an MCPO. Flat black pan, Chrome valve covers, gray block and intake manifold.

BTW: Is there a torque pattern for the 2-barrel intake manifold for a 65' 283 SBC?

A couple of disappointments when inspecting the long block during my paint work today: #1. All the hardware at the oil filter port is gone, including the male pipe thread fitting. #2. The push rod for the fuel pump isn't in the block.

Is this normal after an engine rebuild? I don't want to start a stink if it isn't warranted.

I'm not sure about with your builder, but the guy who does all of mine usually gets me all new parts while I'm there, or he throws all those parts that I'll reuse to the side to give back since he has to take them off to do work on the motor.

[justcuz]

What ever went with it should come back.
The harmonic balancer is stuck on the crank?
Torque pattern for intake is in any shop manual. Basically an x pattern from the middle 4 out to the outside. 3/8 bolts, 35 ft lbs as I recall.

[justcuz]

Oh and I seem to remember grey being used by Chevy for truck engines at some point. Maybe more of a blue grey, but grey nonetheless. What cam did you have him put in the engine?

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by justcuz

What ever went with it should come back.
The harmonic balancer is stuck on the crank?
Torque pattern for intake is in any shop manual. Basically an x pattern from the middle 4 out to the outside. 3/8 bolts, 35 ft lbs as I recall.

I’m calling the engine builder this morning to see what’s up with the missing components - just didn’t want to come off as a d*%k. The cam is fairly mild - just a bit more bump than stock, because I wanted to maintain the mileage with the 2-barrel set-up.

The harmonic balancer is off again - no biggie. Bringing some mic’s and a last-word indicator home from the shop tonight and measure the crank end for size and roundness. If needed, I have the guys at the shop take a sniff out of the bore and then coat the bore with red Loc-Tite.

I’m still going to stand this motor on end, pack dry ice around the crank end and heat the balancer a bit, prior to banging it on the engine.

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by justcuz

Basically an x pattern from the middle 4 out to the outside. 3/8 bolts, 35 ft lbs as I recall.

Give the guy from Alta Loma a cigar!

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...0427012716.pdf.

Page 4 of 4 - middle of the page - left.

[joe231]

Ouch!!

[joe231]

oh man, i thought that total was for the 283 build

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by joe231

oh man, i thought that total was for the 283 build

Nah - sorry for the confusion.

This project just seems a bit overwhelming presently - hence me saying you shouldn’t do accounting in the middle and wait until you’re done. I’m sure it will be a fairly nice truck once I’m done, but I’m going to make one more purchase when it hits the street:

A Mossberg stainless pump for my new house’s balcony patrol.

[joe231]

sounds like an effective security system

[MacAttack]

Finished the painting and detailing of the steering column sheetmetal and associated pieces last night - just going with a flat black finish for right now.

Earlier this week I turned the knob off the shifter housing at the shop, sanded the finish off and Bondo’d the shift handle closed.

It came out nice, and because I’m putting the TH350’s shifter on the floor - I’m going to reassemble the steering assembly this weekend, in-between putting on the new flex-plate, rebuilt starter and intake manifold on the ‘283’.

* I’d like to share some pictures, but I can’t figure out how to resize for the forum - they’re coming out way too big to post.

[javadoc]

Sen dme your photos and I'll resiz em for ya