'51 Build w/4bt Cummins

[II_Slow]

If you haven't found the 4BTswaps.com forun yet, go there for diesel specifics. Lots of expertise there on those engine over there, and you'll find all of the expertise on the early Chevy here (not me, I'm the receiver of said expertise!).
Should be an awesome build. And as others said, go ahead and box the front half of that frame while you've got everything apart. Should be easy now. If you are like me, positioning parts where you want them for welding is 10x easier than welding overhead or trying to reach around other stuff.

[stinsonj]

We rebuilt the front axle over the weekend with relative ease after having a local machine shop press out the old king pins (took 25 tons of force apparently) and I started removing the old spring perches from the s10 rear axle. Expecting a big delivery tomorrow which includes the new suspension, steering, and brake systems while the engine should arrive later in the week.

I'm debating on taking the cab to a local hot rod shop and have them repair the rust as I'm nervous about welding on such thin metal. However if an estimate to fix the rust comes back more than about $1,000, ill probably attempt it myself.

[II_Slow]

If you are cutting back to good metal, you shouldn't have too much trouble welding in patches (assuming you have good equipment = MIG or TIG). Just try your hand on some comparable scrap stuff before sending if off to someone else. That's money can spend on other stuff on the truck!

[stinsonj]

Anyone know what gauge of metal the cab is? I would like to pick up some sheet metal that's a similar thickness to practice welding on.

[stinsonj]

Received a big shipment of parts today including new steering, suspension, brakes, and motor! Got started on what I thought would be the easiest install which was the suspension but man was I wrong. Should really only take about 20 min in my opinion to install a new set of leaf springs but we spent at least 2 hrs trying to get just one of the front leafs installed, and still failed. The rear eye on the leaf spring at first wouldn't fit into the rear hangar so I had to grind and chisel out metal so it would finally fit. But when I tried to install the bolt, I noticed that the eye was twisted or something, which wouldn't allow the bolt to pass thru. Not sure what to do other than put the spring in a vice and torque on it until its straight again?? Also, even without the spring in place, I couldn't get the new bolt to thread thru the inside of the hangar, so ill probably have to clean out the threads with a tap or somethin. Sooooo frustrating when you set out to do something simple, which was only supposed to take 20 min, and you end up failing after 2 hrs.

[Nut Case]

Stinison, Find a tapered punch approx. 16" long line up one side and then the other, then start the bolt in the end that is lined up drive to the other hanger.. To align the final end get a good pipe wrench and fit it to the spring and torque it until it's lined up on the hanger. This is best done with helper.

Just an idea.

Good Luck

Nut Case

[stinsonj]

Thanks for the help! The problem is if you are torqueing on the spring to get it to line up, it will be hard to thread the spring pin correctly into the inside of the hanger. Think I'm going to grind out the hangers a bit more so that nothing is in a bind, and see how that helps. Also going to flip the frame over so that I'm not working on my back.

[stinsonj]

So the inside hole of the leaf spring hanger is threaded for the shackle pin. It appears to be the wrong threads as the new pin wont start at all. Do you think its alright if I just grind out the threads to make installing the pin easier?

[stinsonj]

Finally got the springs and front axle installed last night. Had to grind out the inside of the spring hangers in order to get the springs to fit correctly. Also had to take a wire brush to the threads on the hangers so that the new pin would thread in (they were full of paint, rust, dirt, etc.). After I realized what the issue was, it only took about 30 min to get the springs installed.

This weekend we will install the new front brakes and rack and pinion steering hopefully. Still need to order spring perches and lower shock mounts for the rear axle.

[stinsonj]

Partially installed the front disk brakes today and rack and pinion steering. For the most part, it all went fairly smoothly. After working on the suspension and brakes, I was going to start installing the sway bars but noticed im missing about half the parts. Emailed performanceonline.com so we'll see what comes of it.

Heres a picture of the steering and brake set-up.

[kirsch11]

How did this project end up?

[stinsonj]

I actually moved to Florida for work right after my last post and when that job was completed in 2017, i moved to Virginia to work on another project. So, its sat in my bard collecting dust for the last 3 years. Looking forward to the day when i get to move back to Oregon and work on it again.

[kirsch11]

Dang, at least your getting to see the country.

[stinsonj]

Well after 4 years, we are back at it. The truck has made its way to Texas where we now call home after being in Virginia for the past 3 years.

After getting everything set up in our garage while we wait for a shop to be built, we started tackling repairing as much rust as possible. We started off by welding in cab corners on the inside of the body to preserve the patina that's showing on the outside. It didn't end up perfect but im sure it will work. Right now we are working on the floor pans. The passenger side is the first to come out as it seemed the easiest to start out with. Once we weld in the new panel, which will probably happen this weekend, we will work on the cowel. The patch panels we bought from ClassicParts.com definitely does not fit perfect but its close enough, especially considering it will all be covered with dyno mat and carpet once complete. There is also some rusted out bits on the underside of the cab, right below the cowel that i will either make my own patch for or just leave as is. We are looking forward to being done with the body work as its my least favorite thing to do, mostly since i have no idea what im doing. Uploaded a few pictures but not sure how to rotate them.

[stinsonj]

We have the passenger side floor pan and interior cowl welded in place, along with a piece of sheet metal to cover the battery box as I figure we will just build a new box in the engine compartment. Next we will be cutting out the welding in patch panels for the driver side floor pan and cowl which should complete all of the body work currently planned. Once that's complete, we are going to do our best to clean up the interior of the cab before spraying a coat of primer, leaving the dash in its current, weathered condition.

I will post an update with pictures once the whole interior is completed and primered.

[kirsch11]

stinsonj,

Have you considered keeping the battery box and using it for storage? I'm planning on doing something like that for my truck for tools or drinks. I'll just make a box and attached it to the bottom of the cab.

[stinsonj]

That's a great idea. Just wish i would have thought about it before I started welding the panel in place.

[kirsch11]

Originally Posted by stinsonj

That's a great idea. Just wish i would have thought about it before I started welding the panel in place.

I believe we have all been there...

[joedoh]

haha the patch panels for these trucks I think were made by a guy who heard the panel described by another guy, over the phone, with an overseas connection. BUT if you use them as patches and not concourse restoration panels, they will work.

glad you got back on it!

[stinsonj]

Never thought this would turn in to such a long drawn out project but I guess that's how these things generally go.

Was able to find an NV4500 transmission out of a '96 Dodge Ram 2500 about 45 min from out home for a really good deal (thank you Facebook Market place). Included was everything needed to install the transmission into the truck (bell housing, clutch fork, hydraulics, shift boot, etc.). We have since mated the trans to the motor after replacing the throw-out bearing and luckily enough, everything lined up.

With the cab bolted to the frame, I began the process of engineering motor mounts. I originally was going to build new bracketry but quickly realized the mounts used from the 4Bt's previous application were still mounted to the block which made things substantially easier. All I had to do at that point was build brackets to weld to the frame that would accept the liquid mounts i had purchased years ago.

After installing and removing the motor multiple times to figure out the exact placement including making a few more cuts to the firewall and floor, I finally had the motor where I wanted it and began to weld in the brackets i had fabricated earlier. This week I will paint the brackets, remove more of the old transmission cross member, and install the motor hopefully for the last time.

Once in its final resting place, I will fabricate a new transmission support, likely out of 4"x2" square tubing if i can find some around here.

[stinsonj]

Got the pictures figured out. What a pain.

[kirsch11]

Truck is looking good, I just put an NV4500 in my truck this past spring as well. It has worked out really well for me so far. I just put an upgraded clutch in for when I increase my power. With a 3.10 gear ratio I've gotten up to 78 with more in in tank. Need to go on an interstate for that.

[stinsonj]

Kirsch, I didn't realize that you had already done what I'm currently attempting to do. Now that yours is running and driving, any pointers or stuff that you wish you would have done different? One of the issues i recently had/have is that the motor needs to sit pretty high in the engine bay in order for the starter to clear. With everything level, this doesn't allow for much in the way rear suspension travel as the driveline would hit one of the cross members underneath the cab if the rear end traveled more than 5 or 6". I dont think this will be an issue since i wont ever tow with the truck and may get more clearance with a smaller diameter driveshaft but figure you ran into the same problem.

[kirsch11]

stinsonj, I put my truck on an S10 frame. My motor mounts landed exactly where the s10's did. Mine was a little high as well but had to cut the bottom of the cab to fit the transmission. I believe my driveshaft is 2.5" dia. I may have to cut the cab bottom a little more once I start towing with it. Here is the thread of my truck, https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=781360. I could post more pics of it if you want.

[stinsonj]

Can anyone describe how the cab mounts to the frame in the rear? I know there are shackles, for which i only have one for some reason, and I think there is some kind of rubber pad that goes between the frame and the cab itself, but I'm not sure. I currently have the cab mounted in the front with a kit I got online and the rear is sitting on the frame which puts the cab at a pretty good slope from front to back leading me to believe I'm missing something.