Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter

[derotoreut]

Some progress made on the firewall. All holes filled. Not going nuts on smoothing this firewall like I did on my 71. I want to get this back together. Still some work to be done.

Holes are filled.






Not going to the same level I did on my 71.

[Ol Blue K20]

Wow! It looks like a lot of work going on.

[cst204x4]

Very nice work! Not related to your build but how to you like your openers on your overhead doors?

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by cst204x4

Very nice work! Not related to your build but how to you like your openers on your overhead doors?

Funny you noticed them. They are Liftmaster side mounted jack-shaft openers. They free up ceiling height and are super quiet. They also have dead bolts that lock when the door closes and have the capability of using your smartphone to close them if needed. I haven't purchased the optional WiFi set up yet for these. The only drawback I can say is that they are slow, but that's no big deal. I love them.

[cst204x4]

Thanks for the reply I’m thinking of getting a couple for my 12x12 doors

[msgross]

not going nuts on the firewall he says

[derotoreut]

Firewall body work is complete and ready for paint.

[derotoreut]

I decided to go with Ricks Tanks for my underbed gas tank. A friend of mine has used them for a couple of different builds. They are very nice quality tanks, but pricey. Unfortunately I had some problems with mine. I ordered it with a 2" bed fill neck, but they sent it with an 1-1/2" filler neck. Before returning it to Rick's I decided to test fit the tank and found out the mounting flanges hit my rear leaf spring perches. This would not allow the tank to go rearward enough, which caused the filler neck to be too close to the bed cross sill.

Rick's is a super company though and they want to do everything possible to make things right. Their customer service is personal and second to none. They scheduled a pick up and paid for the return of the tank. They put the rework at the front of their line so it would get completed ASAP. I am expecting it to be returned shortly.

My Rick's Tank. Made in the USA in Texas.



I test fit the tank by putting it on top of my roller chest and lowering the truck down over it. It worked pretty well.



The mounting flange hit the leaf spring perch.



This did not allow the filler neck to move far enough toward the rear of the truck. The filler neck was too close to the bed cross sill.



Another picture of the tank mounting flange hitting my spring mount.

[derotoreut]

These are the areas of the Rick's Tank that needs to be modified:

Mounting brackets need to move back 1-1/8" to clear the spring mounts.



Tank was supposed to have a 2" filler neck. I wanted this because I plan to use a 2" Boyd's bed fill.



The other bracket also needs to move back 1-1/8".

[derotoreut]

Firewall paint is now complete. That's it for body work. Just need more time to work on the truck.

[Ol Blue K20]

Looks nice

[rsavage]

Nice work Dan. Looking great!

[derotoreut]

Sorry I haven't had too much time to work on my project and post updates. Been spending a lot time out of town for work.

Anyways I wanted to update a few things. First of all I decided to use the Pacific Fabrication / Tilden Motorsports 4WD cross member. Got that installed. According to Pacific Fab they said to start with the cross member all the way forward and the engine adapters installed turned toward front. Will see how this goes.

[derotoreut]

Did some engine work. Removed Delphi evap purge and replaced it with a billet plug since I won't need it. Sorry no picture of the plug, but here's a link to Summit Racing to show it: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/i...iABEgLdr_D_BwE

Old Delphi Evap Purge Valve




Valve removed.

[derotoreut]

Got my fuel tank back from Ricks Tanks. The tank was corrected to add the 2" filler neck like I originally ordered. I wanted the 2" filler neck so it would match up to the Boyd's fuel filler that will be mounted in the bed.

They also relocated the mounting flanges, so they won't hit my leaf spring mounts. I put the tank on my tool box and wheeled it under my truck, which was on the lift and just lowered the lift down. It took a little jockeying, but worked great. The Rick's Tank fit perfect.

Tank now has 2" filler neck




Tank fit great

[derotoreut]

Sorry I haven't given any updates in a while. The summer was very busy for me with little time to work on the truck. However, recently I've made some progress, so I'll try to give some updates.

[derotoreut]

I picked up some later model fuel rails without the fuel regulator. So I pulled the fuel rails with regulator and replaced them with the updated ones.

[derotoreut]

Worked on installing the Advanced Adapter kit to the back of my 4L60E transmission. I used the kit PN 50-5311 (https://www.advanceadapters.com/prod...205-10-spline/). Got the transmission married to the engine and ready to install.

[derotoreut]

A good friend of mine really wanted to make me a bracket to use with my two post lift for installing my engine/transmission combo. He really went overboard with fabricating this lift bracket. It's a really awesome piece, that gave me plenty of lift height.

[derotoreut]

So with the engine installed there's not a lot of room between my valve covers and firewall. I didn't want to change the position of my NP205 and have to worry about front/rear driveshaft length, so the engine is fairly close to the firewall.

Not much room between passenger side valve cover and firewall.



The Doug Thorley TRI-Y headers (THY-324Y-C) hit the firewall and won't work.



This high pipe out of the Thorley headers hits on the passenger side.

[derotoreut]

So I got the radiator and Vintage Air condenser mounted onto the core support. I also got an overflow canister from a friend and fabricated a bracket to mount it. My LS swap radiator does not have provisions for automatic transmission cooling, so I have to come up with a transmission cooler. I contacted the people at Derale to ask them for help in sizing the right cooler. They told me that since I don’t have an auto trans cooler in my radiator that sizing of a primary cooler is important. They suggested that I get their PN 13960 for use as a primary cooler. It comes with 6 AN connections, 500 CFM fan and 180 degree in-line thermostat for turning on the fan. They said that this cooler can be mounted anywhere, and in any position. If I bought it I was thinking of installing it either under the bed, or horizontally up front just passed the core support. I'm not so sure that I need one with a fan. I might look for alternatives if I can find a way to mount one upfront in the core support area.

Here is info on the Derale cooler that was suggested:
https://derale.com/product-footer/fl...9/13960-detail

[derotoreut]

I installed the Dirty Dingo AC compressor mount. I'm very pleased with this set up. It mounts to heads and not water pump. I heard of many members having squealing issues with the Kwik brackets sold by Vintage Air, so I decided to give this bracket a shot. So far I'm impressed. Tensioner is strong.

[derotoreut]

Engine, transmission and Advanced Adapter kit is fully installed. Getting ready to install NP205.

[derotoreut]

When I installed my engine I tried to drop it in with the accessory drive installed. Unfortunately the power steering pump low pressure line was damaged when it hit the frame during the install. I decided to pull not only the PS pump, but also the alternator and accessory drive bracket. I had a friend of mine blast and powder coat the accessory bracket. I thought about powder coating it black, but thought the black color would have been too much black on the engine. I wanted to keep it some sort of aluminum color. All he had was a chrome powder color. I was somewhat skeptical, but I'm pleased in how it turned out.

Pulled alternator to wire brush and clean it up.



Accessory drive bracket with new power steering pump installed.

[derotoreut]

I installed the accessory drive on the engine and once again found that the power steering pump line hit the frame. I ended up tweaking the line in order to get it below the frame rail.

Powder coated accessory drive installed.


Power steering pump line hit the frame.


Bent the line slightly to get it below the frame rail.


Line is between frame rail.