05-05-2012, 11:34 AM | #26 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
thanks for the link for the gauges..... how did u go about hooking up the speedo?
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05-05-2012, 11:43 AM | #27 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
Wire it directly off the VSS signal from the engines fuse box.
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05-26-2012, 08:29 AM | #28 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
As for wiring, what really needs to be done? I just rewired my truck with painless harnesses, would like for this to be as simple as plugging in where the other one left off
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05-26-2012, 11:13 AM | #29 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
I kept the old factory wiring in place. Once you feed the main hot wire off the new style fuse box it all works the same as before. There are only like two main feed wires. One for headlights and one for your fuse box.
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06-06-2012, 02:11 PM | #30 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
Dash completed and installing a/c using the factory compresser today. Hopefully it cools This cost me around 400$
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06-06-2012, 10:22 PM | #31 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
So you just used the factory Silverado under hood harness and just cut the crap you didnt use off? Thats a brilliant way to save $450 on a custom stand alone harness. What did you do about the VATS in the computer?
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06-08-2012, 04:58 PM | #32 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
I left the original wiring under the hood alone and just added the engine harness wiring that came with junyard engine. Its all plug and play. The downside is you have to use the factory fuse box for the LS engine which is bulky and ugly but who cares if its just a daily driver. I am using the factory a/c compressor that came with the engine and hopefully by Monday it will be blowing cold air. Have less than 300$ in the a/c system.
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06-12-2012, 11:21 PM | #33 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
Update to the update. I now have in dash vintage air. Its the compac II system. The previous underdash set up blows it out of the water!!! The vintage air just doesnt have the volume of air. It still cools but needs to be one high. At least I have heat. But.... the vintage air controls are bad and I need to send it back. Not to happy with vintage air.
Update on the A/C. It works!! Blows Ice cold. I used the factory 5.3 a/c compressor hooked to a cheap underdash a/c unit. The unit pushes a lot of air and cools the cab very quickly. I got my a/c working in a non a/c truck for about 480$ I did have to remove my heater so thats a negative but later on when I can afford a indash unit I will install that. Happy driving with the windows up in high 90's heat. http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/air...ounted-340.php 150$ Custom a/c lines made locally 160$. Underdash a/c unit- Got it used from a friend for 40$ Its a cheap unit from mexico. A/c Evap and Charge 90$ 4 port Bulkhead 40$ Off ebay. Heres what I had http://www.ebay.com/itm/290750368557...84.m1423.l2649 It works awesome and is cheap. Just no heat. Last edited by vannatta20; 07-18-2014 at 02:42 PM. |
06-13-2012, 12:31 AM | #34 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
Can you post any pictures on how you connected to the compressor and what fittings were used thanks also did you use r12 or 134
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06-13-2012, 10:34 AM | #35 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
Awesome build brother. Wish you had more pics. I will be pulling the motor out of my '84 C10 for the LQ4 swap. You are my motivation.
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06-14-2012, 10:03 AM | #36 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
I'm a little stuck on this myself. Doc's Blocks does not make 5.3 adapters anymore, and apparently neither does anyone else. Did you cut up some factory 5.3 lines and add new ends to them?
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06-14-2012, 04:39 PM | #37 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
Ill post pics later tonight of the compressor lines. its really easy. I used the 5.3 factory compressor lines and they just adapted fittiings to it for the rubber a/c hose. I do a vid as well, just been busy with work and family. The a/c works so much better than the 2005 mustang I drive! Small cab and power underdash system works great.
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06-14-2012, 07:12 PM | #38 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
Thanks so much!
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06-14-2012, 10:25 PM | #39 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
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06-14-2012, 10:32 PM | #40 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
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06-14-2012, 10:49 PM | #41 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
I used R134 from the part stores. Guess what I got from the salvage yard to 60$... Power steering box off an 80's GM truck and hydroboost off a 2004 GM HD pickup Cant wait to install that next. Just need time off from work!
Last edited by vannatta20; 06-14-2012 at 10:57 PM. |
06-15-2012, 12:29 AM | #42 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
CaptainFab make a nice bracket to mount the hydroboost. I have the boost from an 05 GMC and I used the flat plate from an AstoVan (or CaptainFab has one). I havent figured how to connect the pedal to the hydroboost rod, but my thought was to cut the very end off and thread it to 3/8" and use a coupler and a heim at the pedal...
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06-15-2012, 06:26 AM | #43 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
subbin' in here
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1968 RS Camaro 'Vert Matching number 327 and M21 Muncie 1968 C10 Black with red interior and orig paint. 5.3 / 4l60e,3:73 POSI 17" Torq Thrusts 1968 CST 514 Red with black interior. Buddy Buckets, Factory A/C, PS, PB- 20" AR custom shop TT, 5.3 and 4l60e |
06-15-2012, 04:20 PM | #44 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
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07-04-2012, 09:17 PM | #45 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
Awesome job makes it easy and affordable really wanting to do this to my truck
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07-11-2012, 10:47 PM | #46 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
How I kept it simple. Used dirty dingo adjustable mounts for mid to late 80's GM trucks. They have 2 inchs foward and back adjustability. Next I got frame mounts for free from the same era of trucks.
[ATTACH]Attachment 900485[/ATTACH] The engine mount on the left is the factory inline 6. The mount on the right is a late 70's clam style mount.[/quote] Posted via Mobile Device May I have some clarification on the parts used for engine mounts? In addition to the use of the Dirty Dingo mounts. Did you use the factory (68-72) inline 6 engine mount on the left and the late 70's (73-87) V8 clam style mount on the right to allow for the factory Gen III A/C compressor to be retained in the stock location? This would help those trying to retain the factory A/C. Posted via Mobile Device Posted via Mobile Device |
07-12-2012, 11:51 PM | #47 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
I used Both frame mounts from the 73-87 trucks. Ac compressor fits great.
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07-13-2012, 06:03 AM | #48 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
Do you have any pictures of the 73-87 frame mounts bolted in place?
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07-13-2012, 08:56 AM | #49 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
Well I have pics in this thread of the mounts mocked up. I used the orginal mounting holes and drilled a few extra. Its really easy. Once you have your engine mocked up in the frames rails it really easy to see what you will need to do. It was very easy to install the engine and i did by myself in my driveway. The hard part is having the fuel system setup properly fuel injection. My ideas havent worked out well fo me.
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10-01-2012, 12:18 PM | #50 |
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.
any updates?
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1968 RS Camaro 'Vert Matching number 327 and M21 Muncie 1968 C10 Black with red interior and orig paint. 5.3 / 4l60e,3:73 POSI 17" Torq Thrusts 1968 CST 514 Red with black interior. Buddy Buckets, Factory A/C, PS, PB- 20" AR custom shop TT, 5.3 and 4l60e |
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