Strip to bare metal or not

[ghackett1]

Originally Posted by 7D2N

ghackett1. I did mechanical sanding to the areas that needed work, did you sand or use a chemical product?

I use both methods. On the truck pictured I mechanically stripped the paint off.

[chris mc bride]

While far from knowing what I am doing.I have worked around lil brother in his body shop.I am planning to strip to bare metal,one section at a time. Fix anything I find a prime with quality sealer. Then do another when money and time allow.Once all done sand and prime all for paint.More work but will assure I find all problems.

No way would I just scuff and hope. JMO

[raggedjim]

I stripped one of my trucks down about 20 years ago. It had 7 (SEVEN) different colors of paint on it! The only reason I painted it was I didn't like the color. Scuff and paint used to be the standard, and if you had looked at that truck you would have never known it had that many layers.

Times and methods change. Lately we're all building trucks to last forever (good thing) but it comes sometimes at the simple joy of doing the best you can. Perfect is the enemy of good enough.

[7D2N]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

I stripped one of my trucks down about 20 years ago. It had 7 (SEVEN) different colors of paint on it! The only reason I painted it was I didn't like the color. Scuff and paint used to be the standard, and if you had looked at that truck you would have never known it had that many layers.

Times and methods change. Lately we're all building trucks to last forever (good thing) but it comes sometimes at the simple joy of doing the best you can. Perfect is the enemy of good enough.

Thanks Roger that's the way I'm looking at it. I'm working on the doors and fenders now and way more work than I would have thought. Planing to paint this summer.

[LS short box]

Don't know if it would for you but I use a 30LB pressure sand blaster from HF to clean up all edges.
Pic of my 68 parts prior to epoxy prime.

[raggedjim]

By the way, the dash came out great!

[7D2N]

Working on the fenders and the doors.

[7D2N]

And the doors

[7D2N]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

By the way, the dash came out great!

Thanks, just a rattle can mix from the paint shop.

[7D2N]

I have the interior side of the doors in primer, also repaired the rock chips on the front of the hood. I don't like not being able to sand outside it makes a mess in the garage.

[raggedjim]

I like working out on the front porch of my shop, but today it's raining so I'm putting a thin layer of dust on everything inside. I will need to spring clean at some point.

[richards72chevy]

Looks like a clean blazer I would be more worried about the areas I couldn't see.

[7D2N]

I have the primer on the repairs.

[7D2N]

Originally Posted by richards72chevy

Looks like a clean blazer I would be more worried about the areas I couldn't see.

Yes sir, lots of areas I could'nt see but from doing panel replacement and metal repairs the unseen I think it will be ok.

[7D2N]

I posted this in another section, but next time it comes apart its for finish primer and paint.

[Myself]

Twice I have not stripped to metal........and twice it bit me in the a$$.

[kev2809]

progress is looking pretty good from here...nice work

[7D2N]

Originally Posted by kev2809

progress is looking pretty good from here...nice work

Thank you. The blazer was repainted in 2005/2007 in Utah by whom I have no idea but its a pretty dry state. I going to move forward but do you guys think that the states with higher humidty may have more problems for DIY guys.

[ProjectDD]

Originally Posted by 7D2N

Thank you. The blazer was repainted in 2005/2007 in Utah by whom I have no idea but its a pretty dry state. I going to move forward but do you guys think that the states with higher humidty may have more problems for DIY guys.

Cars can sit for years in bare metal and not flash rust if kept in a climate controlled environment and people keep their oily fingers off of it. A damp, high humidity garage isn't ideal. I'm in PA and we get pretty high in humidity at times. Cars at a prior shop I worked at had been sitting in bare metal for 5+ years. As long as you give it a fresh scuff/sand prior to epoxy, you'll be good. I would say this mainly applies to mechanically stripped to bare metal. Sandblasted metal will flash rust much quicker and should be epoxied asap. If you sand down to bare metal while fixing dents, don't sweat it and epoxy at your convenience. Providing your garage isn't like 70% humidity 24/7.

[Grounded63]

Just out of curiosity, what/who's paint system. Do you plan on using, for final priming/paint ? Single stage or base/clear white ?

[7D2N]

Originally Posted by Grounded63

Just out of curiosity, what/who's paint system. Do you plan on using, for final priming/paint ? Single stage or base/clear white ?

I have not decided on a brand but planning to use acrylic enamel in single stage and in white. what do you guys like to spray enamel or urethane?

[Grounded63]

For equipment/tools/general purpose type stuff. I'll use PPG's HBE-400 series (high build epoxy) pimer. And ,AUE-100 (acrylic urethane enamel, uses a catalyst) for top coat. Both used to be pretty affordable. But, I haven't really priced any since before covid. Would be fine for a driver you want to look respectable. And, far better than a rustolium paint job.

Used to spray a fair amount of PPG deltron/dbc and HOK urethane for nice stuff. But, with the last pricing i got for ppg clear. It's mostly HOK now.

[ProjectDD]

Originally Posted by 7D2N

I have not decided on a brand but planning to use acrylic enamel in single stage and in white. what do you guys like to spray enamel or urethane?

I would spray an acrylic urethane or polyurethane over an enamel if you're wanting single stage. I would simplify it as, enamel is tractor paint tech and urethane is more modern. Base/Clear is always the best for longevity and overall maintenance. An enamel will require more frequent polishing to keep the gloss up over it's life of sun exposure. More polishing will remove overall mil thickness. An acrylic urethane/polyurethane will have better UV protection and hold it's gloss longer. It will eventually loose gloss but it will be a decade+ for something that sits outside and never sees a waxing. Base/Clear is almost a set it and forget it product as far as a lasting finish.

Depending your spray experience. I could argue base/clear is more forgiving to spray then a single stage. As you can clean your basecoat up and then spray clear. And spraying single stage is the equivalent to spraying clearcoat.

Not talking you into anything you don't want. Just spitting some of my .02

White is a hard color to spray. After your first coat. It becomes difficult to see where you are at on the panels. You must sight down the side of the vehicle and watch the product lay as you spray.

I'd be happy to answer questions.

[7D2N]

Starting the take a part so I can finish top of bed rails and inside of tailgate. I drove it out in daylight and I have a few areas (way more than thought) that need a more attention.

[kev2809]

man thats looking good though, nice progress!