1964 C10 fleet side swb

[Justin71105]

Rear end back in truck, brakes and lines reinstalled. New shocks installed along with new adjustable panhard bar. Going to try and get engine and transmission bolted togethor and sat in truck tomorrow.

[Justin71105]

Just testing out my new angle finder, where would the correct spot be to measure the pinion angle and crank angle to calculate drive-line angles.

Just have it on jack stands right now so angles probably aren't correct, should have wheels/tires in this week. Just want to make sure I am measuring the correct spots. Also putting in 2" drop coils to go with my 2.5" drop spindles so probably change trans angle more.

Took pictures of where I placed angle finder, got to different measurements. Looked online and it is pretty confusing, hoping when I get wheels and tires on the front the trans will angle down some more. It is reading less than 0.5 degrees downward angle. Rear is reading between 3.9 and 4.7 and while to me it appears to point up it shows a down arrow.....

[Justin71105]

Picked up the 30 spline axles and carrier from the clube member today. They are 1966 C10 30 spline axles in really good shape and a posi carrier that he gave me with the ring and pinion 3.73's.

Also picked up my pcm that has been tuned to run my engine standalone. Got the vin pulled from it and it did turn out to be a 2003 Tahoe with L59 flex fuel.

Seller said around 150k miles which I was expecting to be incorrect, and it was vin came back with aution on Tahoe and it had 344k miles. But it was running and listed in copart aution as "Engine Atart Program"

No plans to rebuild it, will drop it in and get everything working, when it does give out I will replace it with a re-manufactured short/long block.

It could last several years in my truck or just a few minutes. So will be saving for a long-block while I am installing everything and just hope for the best for now.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

Picked up the 30 spline axles and carrier from the clube member today. They are 1966 C10 30 spline axles in really good shape and a posi carrier that he gave me with the ring and pinion 3.73's.

Also picked up my pcm that has been tuned to run my engine standalone. Got the vin pulled from it and it did turn out to be a 2003 Tahoe with L59 flex fuel.

Seller said around 150k miles which I was expecting to be incorrect, and it was vin came back with aution on Tahoe and it had 344k miles. But it was running and listed in copart aution as "Engine Atart Program"

No plans to rebuild it, will drop it in and get everything working, when it does give out I will replace it with a re-manufactured short/long block.

It could last several years in my truck or just a few minutes. So will be saving for a long-block while I am installing everything and just hope for the best for now.

Sounds like a good plan. Get it up & running w/a better bullet for V.2.

[Paul Y]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

Seller said around 150k miles which I was expecting to be incorrect, and it was vin came back with aution on Tahoe and it had 344k miles. But it was running and listed in copart aution as "Engine Atart Program"

Just found and read your thread - nice work, and a good tip on the Accord Coupe weather strips. Knew about the Civic one but, like you avoided them due to the colour. Just need to find a set and get them shipped over.

344K Miles? Sounds as if the ring gaps will be perfect for a Turbo then....

Best stick a 4l80e in it now and make use of the Pozi!

One small observation re your proportioning valve. I was taught that they should be mounted fore and aft rather than side to side. Now that could be an old wives tale but might want to bear it in mind if you have an issue with your brakes once out on the road with either the rears locking up or not working well.

How far away are you from the maiden voyage?

P.

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by Paul Y

Just found and read your thread - nice work, and a good tip on the Accord Coupe weather strips. Knew about the Civic one but, like you avoided them due to the colour. Just need to find a set and get them shipped over.

344K Miles? Sounds as if the ring gaps will be perfect for a Turbo then....

Best stick a 4l80e in it now and make use of the Pozi!

One small observation re your proportioning valve. I was taught that they should be mounted fore and aft rather than side to side. Now that could be an old wives tale but might want to bear it in mind if you have an issue with your brakes once out on the road with either the rears locking up or not working well.

How far away are you from the maiden voyage?

P.

If prop valve is an issue will move it up onto master cylinder like alot of tese trucks are done. Just have to run new brake lines in that case, can make them look better if I do that.

The 73 I pulled it off of had it mounted in this same location and position, thats why I chose it.

4L80 was much to expensive to think about, a core is around 1k here, for the price of corr/rebuild I could buy a gearstar trans.

The 4L60 will be built enough to handle any extra power I out on it which I dont plan to do for a long time. Never had an issue out of a 4L60e in any truck Ive owned even with upwards of 300k miles, only time I seen someone have an issue was when putting more power on them or rrally dogging their trucks.

Will have trans built for more than stock hp/tq just to be safe. I am mostly wanting reliable driveability in an old truck, so stock power in this light of a truck will likely be plenty for me.



Hopefully by the end of the year I will be driving it, going to need glass before transmission I think, dont want a cab full of water while sitting at transmission shop. As soon as a transmission is put in I can move it around the yard though.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Paul Y

....One small observation re your proportioning valve. I was taught that they should be mounted fore and aft rather than side to side. Now that could be an old wives tale but might want to bear it in mind if you have an issue with your brakes once out on the road with either the rears locking up or not working well.....

P.

Originally Posted by Justin71105

If prop valve is an issue will move it up onto master cylinder like alot of tese trucks are done. Just have to run new brake lines in that case, can make them look better if I do that.

The 73 I pulled it off of had it mounted in this same location and position, thats why I chose it.

4L80 was much to expensive to think about, a core is around 1k here, for the price of corr/rebuild I could buy a gearstar trans.

The 4L60 will be built enough to handle any extra power I out on it which I dont plan to do for a long time. Never had an issue out of a 4L60e in any truck Ive owned even with upwards of 300k miles, only time I seen someone have an issue was when putting more power on them or rrally dogging their trucks.

Will have trans built for more than stock hp/tq just to be safe. I am mostly wanting reliable driveability in an old truck, so stock power in this light of a truck will likely be plenty for me.



Hopefully by the end of the year I will be driving it, going to need glass before transmission I think, dont want a cab full of water while sitting at transmission shop. As soon as a transmission is put in I can move it around the yard though.

The prop valve doesn't know what position it's in & works either way.
On some vehicles they're mounted fore/aft; others might have them left to right. They're mounted based on the packaging of the various components & placed where they'll fit.

[cwcarpenter98]

Dang, that sucks on the mileage. It could be that the engine had been replaced at some point, but I'm not sure if there's a way that you could find out

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by cwcarpenter98

Dang, that sucks on the mileage. It could be that the engine had been replaced at some point, but I'm not sure if there's a way that you could find out

Valves, oil pan and the rest of what I saw doesnt look like almost 350k. But maybe they just took care of it and changed oil regularly etc. At 350k miles I woild have expected a ton more sludge in oil and and buildup on valves.

Hoping its a lower mileage engine than the odometer showed in auction listing,no way to really tell since the block doesnt have the vin stamped anywhere on it I could find.

Either way, just ordered a psi harness and trans cross-member for it today and will order my headers later this week. Going to get the Speed Engineering long-tubes, just trying to figure out if I need the 10 or 12" plug wire set they offer. My stock wires are a tad over 10" from end to end for the manifolds it had.


Ready to get it in the truck and see how it runs.

[Justin71105]

Dug out a radiator I had for my last project, is for a 1998 C1500 5.7L 2wd. Going to test fit it and see if it will fit in my truck, going to look and see if I could mount a shroud on it and just use the mechanical fan on the motor as well.

Been looking at radiators and the ls swap ones are around $600, if this one fits will find a fan setup that fits and change over to e-fans later on.

....It doesnt fit, its about 8" too wide to fit between inner fenders. Guess I need to decide on a swap radiator that I can upgrade with e-fans later...or just buy the whole setup with fans, do not have the stock radiator to use.


Found this one I am going to look into

http://www.speedcooling.com/1963-196...um-Shroud.html

[Sledgebone]

Look on Summit for BeCool boneyard LS swap radiators. I had to make a couple mounts for it but fit great. Older t-bird fan off of rock auto fit prefect on the radiator as well. I can look up the part numbers of you like. Radiator was around $250, fan was $70ish.

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by Sledgebone

Look on Summit for BeCool boneyard LS swap radiators. I had to make a couple mounts for it but fit great. Older t-bird fan off of rock auto fit prefect on the radiator as well. I can look up the part numbers of you like. Radiator was around $250, fan was $70ish.

I will check it out, will be ordering one in a few weeks.

Just took my rear end stuff to the re-builder, need ring/pinion said mine would work but be noisy from the pitting, the axle had one pretty good pit that he said would kill a bearing at speed....

So ordered a new set of moser axles, May have gotten away with a repair bearing but no reason to skimp now I guess, $275 for new axles added on.

Luckily the carrier/spider gears and clutch pack in the unit were in great shape so can re-use them.

The axles and ring and pinion added a pretty good chunk to the rear end rebuild, just about doubled the cost.

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by Sledgebone

Look on Summit for BeCool boneyard LS swap radiators. I had to make a couple mounts for it but fit great. Older t-bird fan off of rock auto fit prefect on the radiator as well. I can look up the part numbers of you like. Radiator was around $250, fan was $70ish.

Found the Be Cool 35200 radiator that looks to be the same dimensions as stock. What fan did you go with for it? I am reading a 2400-2500cfm fan for a V8 and a shroud.

[cwcarpenter98]

Having the engine out makes the truck look like an old gasser. On the suspension, the ball joints, tie rods, and other steering stuff is ok to torque down without weight on it. It's the control arm bushings that you want the full weight on before you torque them down, especially with poly or delrin stuff.

Your truck is lookin' good! I like the way the brake lines are routed away from where a lot of engine heat sits

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by cwcarpenter98

Having the engine out makes the truck look like an old gasser. On the suspension, the ball joints, tie rods, and other steering stuff is ok to torque down without weight on it. It's the control arm bushings that you want the full weight on before you torque them down, especially with poly or delrin stuff.

Your truck is lookin' good! I like the way the brake lines are routed away from where a lot of engine heat sits

Control arms will definitely need to be loosened and re-tightened with the engine in. I think the fender bottom is higher than before the engine was in it and stock height.

Hoping to get a 2" gap between fender/tire, right now its closer to 5".

[cwcarpenter98]

There's a big difference in height with the engine out vs. in.
Post #37 of my build thread shows my truck without an engine in it. Post #67 is how it looks with full weight in the engine bay

If you replaced the springs, they will settle a little bit as well

[Justin71105]

Rear end dropped off for a full rebuild, only part I am using is the posi carrier I was thankfully gifted.

Think I will order fuel tank setup and transmission when I get the rear end back. Picked up some ot this month and would like to start making more progress.

Still hoping to start it before spring and maybe have it yard driving.

[Justin71105]

New shocks came in today, went with the belltech street performance shock's for 4-5" drop. Be awhile before they get tested out but be nice to have them installed. Should bave rear end back from rebuilder next week and can finish up brakes fully. Then need to order a rransmission and then a boyd tank.

Still deciding whether to use the stealth 340 they offer or search out a hanger/pump that will work with that tank.

[88Stanger]

Nice work so far!

[Justin71105]

Still impatiently waiting on my rear end to be finished up, had to order a new yoke for the 66 carrier.

Going friday to pick up a used 4L60e and try my luck on it. If nothing else and needs a rebuild its cheaper than the core charge at the rebuilder. And I can get moving on fuel lines, trans lines, wire harness, drive shaft measurements, and stuff that will come with having engine/trans in truck.

[Justin71105]

Should have looked over that transmission a little more, it's just going to have to be my core.

Looks like the drain pan nut has come off so would need a new pan, bell housing was cracked at the sight window which isnt a big deal. But I did not even notice it did not have a torque converter in it when I offered to buy it.

So this will be my core for my new trans I will have done.

[Justin71105]

Worked on brake pedal a little today picked up a pedal from a 96 c1500 from the junkyard today. Going to weld the wider pedal on my stock pedal arm and maybe bend the arm to left a little at the end and try to get it moved back towards the firewall some.

Hoping Boyds runs a sale on tanks this year for Thanksgiving, going to be ordering my tank setup next week either way though.

Decided to go with the complete setup from them instead of piecing it togethor.

Found a converter for the trans and going to hit up junkyard again for a filler tube/stick and maybe a new trans pan.

[Justin71105]

Trans cleaned up and got tq converter put in and a corvette servo put in it. Waiting on cooler line fittings now and a new energy suspension mount for it. Then will get it bolted to motor and see about getting trans crossmember installed with it.
Need to find the double sided studs for the trand tube, cannot find them online....made my own.

[Justin71105]

Have everything I think I need to install motor/trans this week hopefully. Trans and motor have all new seals I could think to replace. Have my trans cross member and new trans mount and cooler line fitting are installed.

Going to mess around with the tq converter a little more and make sure it is correct for the trans, its out a of 05 Avalanche, which all the parts store list to work with an 03 Silverado transmission. Will not make a full spin when pushed all the way in trans like I think it should be, may need to pull it out a little and try, may be rubbing pump.

Went ahead and ordered my tank, went with the No Limit 19 ga tank setup with pump and everything ready to install.

Local Classic Chevy shop recommended it over the Boyd setup which he runs in his 68 C10. So hopefully will have a tank to install in the next week or two and my rear end back from the re-builder this week "fingers crossed".

Going to hit up parts yard for a drive shaft and have it shortened/balanced for my truck.

[Justin71105]

Got the call, my rear end is done, all new except housing and posi carrier. Going to get it tomorrow. Need to hit parts yardagain for a drive shaft or atleast a yoke. No luck on drive shaft last week and didntgrab a yoke.

Going to hit up V6 S10s and blazers this time. All the full size truck shafts were gone or damaged from forklifts.