55.2-59 My’56 Chevy Shortbox Build

[SARBlade]

Originally Posted by dsraven

be slow when welding onto the axle tubes as they will get hot and end up warping when they cool off.

I had read that the GM tubes are thinner than the Ford so was going to watch that. Thanks

[6DoF]

i love a good double triangulated 4-link!

have you seen the 4-link calculator spread sheet? here's a link to d/l it if not. use it, trust it, design with it. small changes can be the difference between a good set-up and a great one! i always suggest making the upper link frame mounts with adjustable holes so you can change the anti-squat if needed. set up some holes below 100% estimate, and some above, or around whatever range you are shooting for.

https://www.crawlpedia.com/files/4_link_calculator.xls

when i did the trailing arms for my 55 i wasn't going to run it, did, and 6" longer links made a HUGE change to a more correct geometry.

[SARBlade]

Originally Posted by dsraven

be slow when welding onto the axle tubes as they will get hot and end up warping when they cool off.

Thanks, yeah I was watching some vids on that, was going to pre-heat as I went to avoid that.

[SARBlade]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

i love a good double triangulated 4-link!

have you seen the 4-link calculator spread sheet? here's a link to d/l it if not. use it, trust it, design with it. small changes can be the difference between a good set-up and a great one! i always suggest making the upper link frame mounts with adjustable holes so you can change the anti-squat if needed. set up some holes below 100% estimate, and some above, or around whatever range you are shooting for.

https://www.crawlpedia.com/files/4_link_calculator.xls

when i did the trailing arms for my 55 i wasn't going to run it, did, and 6" longer links made a HUGE change to a more correct geometry.

Thanks, yeah, I looked at a calculator on line, I need some weights, that I no longer can get because I didn't way the front end and the rear end separately. Heck, I don't even know what the truck weighs right now lol. I did take a bunch of measurements for where I want the rear to sit, and put the diff back into the correct position. I wasn't really too worried about squat since I wasn't racing it, but I guess under hard acceleration, its better the ass go down then up lol

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by SARBlade

Thanks, yeah, I looked at a calculator on line, I need some weights, that I no longer can get because I didn't way the front end and the rear end separately. Heck, I don't even know what the truck weighs right now lol. I did take a bunch of measurements for where I want the rear to sit, and put the diff back into the correct position. I wasn't really too worried about squat since I wasn't racing it, but I guess under hard acceleration, its better the ass go down then up lol

that's where a best-guess comes in and some adjustability. play with weights and balance that you think is too much or too little and build a few sheets, should give you an idea of what's reasonable in the middle for mounts.

another thought, i've always gone on the theory that the upper to lower links should be ~30deg or more vs the upper links to the frame or each other. probably either will work, and my double triangulated 4-links have been in jeeps.

[joedoh]

everybody got a 56! I need to work on mine.

Originally Posted by 6DoF

another thought, i've always gone on the theory that the upper to lower links should be ~30deg or more vs the upper links to the frame or each other. probably either will work, and my double triangulated 4-links have been in jeeps.

me too, i have done a bunch of 4 links on bagged trucks with upper triangulated 4 links and that is the rule of thumb i used.

[6DoF]

doing the bags was nice, only having to account for 1/3 the travel and limited articulation was great!