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#26 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Terre Haute IN
Posts: 31
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Re: 1950 Build
Tonight I got the front of the frame cleaned up and tried out some different rust treatments/converter’s. I’m trying to decide if I want to do the frame in sections or if I want to sandblast it all or not. I tend to be very OCD so it’s hard for me accept the fact that it’s just a frame and doesn’t need to be show quality. Anyway, the first photo is of the rustoleum rust transformer. The second is Eastwood rust converter. And the front crossmember is Eastwood rust encapsulator. Will see how everything looks tomorrow after it dries overnight.
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#27 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: calgary alberta
Posts: 8,079
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Re: 1950 Build
funny, looking at your frame like it is when it shows all the factory holes. looks like somebody had a shoot out. thats a lot of holes. I filled all the un needed holes on my '57. that was a few days welding and grinding.
keep posting, you have a few followers now. |
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#28 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: calgary alberta
Posts: 8,079
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Re: 1950 Build
maybe just the pic angles but it looks like the first pic, left frame rail, covers the best.
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#29 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Terre Haute IN
Posts: 31
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Re: 1950 Build
Sorry its been a few days but I have been working on the truck. I ran into several issues with the crossmember. Long story short, I should have went with a weld in crossmember. It was overall a good unit, just some issues with manufacturing would be my guess. The first issue was the inner boxing plates, they were missing the assembly hole in the front so I had to add that. The second issue was the holes that bolt from the frame to crossmember were way off, so I had to drill those out and add some washers on the backside of the bolts. So after several attempts and cus words, it still wouldn't fit. This brings me to the next issue, The flange where the crossmember slides against the inner boxing plates had a 3/16 inch overhang on each side. This created an issue with everything lining up as well. I removed the radiator crossmember again to try and get everything to fit with no luck. After some research, I realized that the 3/16 overhang was the issue so I ground it off. With the flange flush, everything finally fit perfect. I have a few more holes to drill then I can start bolting up the front suspension. Hopefully some of the pictures below will help explain what I had to deal with.
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#30 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Terre Haute IN
Posts: 31
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Re: 1950 Build
Here are the photos. The yellow arrow is where I had to cut the flange.
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#31 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Terre Haute IN
Posts: 31
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Re: 1950 Build
Tonight I got some parts opened up and sorted out for the front suspension. I primed and painted the control arms and some other small pieces. I also finished bolting up the crossmember. I’ll get it cleaned up and painted tomorrow so I can start getting the suspension together. Need a warm day to get the shop opened up and cleaned out. I’m running out of room.
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#32 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Hampton, Ga
Posts: 897
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Re: 1950 Build
Looking good. I love upgraded suspension on older vehicles. My dad's 59 pickup is still straight axle with a single lowering leaf spring and it rides like a dump truck.
-Josh
__________________
1967 Buick Special wagon 1968 Jeep Wagoneer 1958 Chevy Panel Truck 2017 Suzuki M109R |
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#33 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Scotts, Michigan
Posts: 3,770
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Re: 1950 Build
I like the A-arms color. I choose a similar color for my suspension.
Marc
__________________
…………...........__________ .................. ((__|__||___\____ ..;.;;.:;:;.,;..;((_(O))____ (_(O)) 1948 Chevy Truck - Finished SOLD!! 1953 Chevy Suburban "Family Truckster" Completed: Spring of 2021 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=605484 1994 4x4 Blazer - "Field Find" https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...ferrerid=30857 |
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#34 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Terre Haute IN
Posts: 31
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Re: 1950 Build
Decided to put some filler primer down after the rust converter. Chassis black next then I can get her together.
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#35 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Terre Haute IN
Posts: 31
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Re: 1950 Build
Well, I got the chassis black on finally. It is definitely not matte like its supposed to be. Hopefully it will look better in the morning so I don't have to spray it again. I also painted the calipers, shocks, and spindles tonight. I went with red because the rear calipers I bought were red. I may end up changing it up, they are pretty bright, but I think it will look good once everything is together.
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#36 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Terre Haute IN
Posts: 31
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Re: 1950 Build
Here’s some photos.
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#37 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: West Plains, Missouri
Posts: 7,559
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Re: 1950 Build
Looks good...Jim
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my build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=459839 Jimbo's long bed step build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...t=464626<br /> |
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#38 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: CHURCHVILLE NY
Posts: 472
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Re: 1950 Build
Looks very nice! Steve
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My 57 Fleetside C4 build. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=817054 |
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#39 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Terre Haute IN
Posts: 31
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Re: 1950 Build
Well, I got another coat on. Still a little to much shine for me but hopefully it will be better once it cures. It’s still been pretty cold so the paint is taking it’s time. I got the control arms on. I’m now on hold for a coil spring compressor. Mine must have disappeared in one of my moves over the years.
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#40 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Bryan, Texas
Posts: 2,335
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Re: 1950 Build
Nice job on the front end.
__________________
8man-aka Robert 1948 on a S10 Frame, small block with a carb 1954 Cab, 53 Front and Bed, 50 Doors, S10 Frame, Power TBD Build thread: "]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=746899&highlight=wife%27s+48[/URL] [/URL]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=840204 |
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#41 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: calgary alberta
Posts: 8,079
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Re: 1950 Build
looks great, I kinda like the sheen it has now but thats me. do you have a plan for the old trans cross member? keep, remove, modify?
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#42 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Terre Haute IN
Posts: 31
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Re: 1950 Build
I'm liking the black now too. I did go over it with some matte black I have used on other projects. As far as the trans crossmember, I will probably remove it and replace it once I get the engine and trans roughed in. Next step will be to get the truck relocated in the shop and remove the bed and get the rear going. Then cab so I can finish the frame and fix the cowls. I will be out of town for the next few weeks for work so I won't be able to post any updates unfortunately.
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#43 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Terre Haute IN
Posts: 31
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Re: 1950 Build
I was able to sneak home for the weekend and do a little bit. I got the coils, spindles, rotors, and calipers on. Springs definitely need to seat. I’ll get some tires on next weekend and hopefully that will help things look better. I may have to cut the coils a bit, wanna get it on the ground with some weight on it first. I also picked up a unmolested 4 bolt block this weekend too. That will save time on tearing down and pulling my other motor.
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#44 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: calgary alberta
Posts: 8,079
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Re: 1950 Build
When you're all done and the springs have settled in, your lower control arms should be level side to side and fore to aft. Looks good. Don't sweat the frame sheen, it is, after all, a frame that is mostly covered and unseen unless you plan to show it. Then it is taken into consideration that it is a driver, not a trailer queen.
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#45 | |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,836
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Re: 1950 Build
Quote:
I think it goes by Prep & Etch and may be in the concrete or pool section, if you read the labels on all the fancy name brand rust removers, CLR, Metal Rescue, this gel and that gel, they all have one common ingredient and that's some sort of acid base and it's usually just phosphoric acid, so why not just use that |
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#46 | |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,836
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Re: 1950 Build
Quote:
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...6&postcount=27 |
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#47 | |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,836
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Re: 1950 Build
Quote:
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#48 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Terre Haute IN
Posts: 31
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Re: 1950 Build
Posted via Mobile Device
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#49 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Terre Haute IN
Posts: 31
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Been awhile since I’ve been able to work on the truck. I got the bed off this weekend and some things rearranged in the shop. Hopefully get the rear end cleaned up and replaced this week.
Posted via Mobile Device |
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#50 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: calgary alberta
Posts: 8,079
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Re: 1950 Build
whatsyour plan for the rear? leafs? will you need a c-notch?
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